
Severny Plechistik is one of the oldest grape varieties, used primarily for table wine. The variety's origin is unknown, but many sources claim the first bushes were planted several centuries ago on Russia's Black Sea coast.
The variety is considered a favorite among winemakers and continues to be grown despite some shortcomings.
Characteristics and features of the variety
The Severny Plechistik grape is grown as an open-grown crop in the Central, Southern, and Northwestern regions, as well as in the Far East and Siberia. The variety tolerates temperatures down to -32°C (-92°F) without any loss. Its resistance to diseases and pests is relatively low. Ripening time is average, with the period from bud break to harvest taking no more than 140 days. Depending on the region, this occurs between mid-August and early September. The first berries to ripen fall off.
The variety has several other names: Goryun (Goryun), because it resembles a mountain; Letun (Flyer) and Osypnyak (Osypnyak, or Falling Fruit), because some of the ripe berries fall off; and Cherny Vino (Black Wine), because of the berry color. The variety was nicknamed Plechisik (Shoulder) and Horned Brush (Horned Brush) for the shape of its clusters.
Description of the plant
The bush is vigorous and requires sturdy, firm support. The leaves are rounded, slightly elongated, deeply dissected, divided into 5 lobes, and dark green. The upper surface of the leaf blade is decorated with a contrasting, lighter shade of mesh, while the underside and veins are densely covered with down. The branches are strong and flexible.
The bunch is small (up to 300 grams), conical or cylindrical with distinct shoulders; individual clusters can weigh up to 1.5 kilograms. The berries weigh up to 3 grams, are dark blue, almost black, with a bluish waxy coating, and rounded with a slightly flattened top. The flavor is sweet, with a subtle, unobtrusive grape aroma. Juice yield is up to 86%, containing 23% sugar and no more than 9 grams of acid. The pulp is juicy and tender, with numerous seeds, and the skin is thin, almost imperceptible.
Yield and use of berries
The berries are versatile and suitable for desserts, juices, compotes, and fruit platters. As a wine grape, the Northern Plechistic is used to make balsams, sparkling and regular wines, as well as fortified alcoholic beverages. The yield is stable, with a mature bush producing approximately 10 kilograms of berries.
Advantages and disadvantages
Modern grape hybrids and varieties are developed to be as easy to grow as possible and produce the highest possible yields. Older varieties have mixed characteristics; they're not perfect, but they're stable. The advantages of the Northern Shoulder:
- productivity;
- the bush does not need to be wrapped up every autumn;
- arbitrary cropping;
- versatility in use.
Disadvantages of the variety:
- weak immunity to diseases (mildew, oidium, gray mold);
- berry shedding;
- short shelf life (no more than 3 weeks in the refrigerator);
- poor transportability.
This variety is suitable for beginning gardeners, but the main thing to carefully study is the correct system of preventative treatments. The flowers are bisexual, and the variety produces fruit well without pollinators, but best results are observed when planted alongside the Tsimlyansk black grape. Blending these varieties when making wine yields a more delicious drink than either variety alone.
Features of cultivation
The Northern Shoulder grape is very demanding regarding soil composition, structure, and moisture. The soil must be permeable and fertile. Planting is done in the spring, when the soil has warmed to a depth of 100 cm, or in the fall, 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost. Choose a sunny, warm location, protected from strong winds. The groundwater level should be as low as possible.
Before planting, be sure to trim the roots, leaving no more than 15 cm, and soak them in water for 2 days. Immediately after planting or before wintering, shorten the shoots to three buds.
When planting several bushes, leave at least 1.5 meters between them. Dig a hole 50 cm deep and prepare a soil mixture of turf, sand, and humus (one part each), along with half a part wood ash. First, fill the hole with slightly less than half the prepared soil, compact it, place the seedling in the center, spread the roots, and cover with the remaining soil. Leave the root collar exposed.
At least two buckets of water are poured immediately under each bush, and the procedure is repeated after two weeks. Subsequent waterings are carried out during prolonged dry periods and always in the fall before wintering. After watering and rain, the soil is loosened to a depth of 10 cm. Before frost sets in, the bush is covered with a large container and completely filled with soil. Covering is necessary only during the first year after planting. In spring and fall, the area around the trunk is mulched with humus.
Mineral or organic fertilizers should be applied only as needed, when the bush is developing poorly or showing signs of starvation. However, experienced winegrowers recommend fertilizing the variety with organic matter every spring, proportional to the previous year's harvest. Immediately after the snow melts, wood ash should be applied to the soil at a rate of one liter per square meter, under shallow tillage.
How to prune a bush
In the first year, the strongest shoot of three buds is left, and the rest are cut back in the first half of July. If the branch grows to one and a half meters in summer, it is pruned back to three leaves, and in the fall, the shoot is shortened to three or four buds. In the second year, the two strongest branches, facing in opposite directions, are selected and tied to the trellis. The remaining branches are pinched above the third leaf and also tied. Throughout the growing season, all side shoots that grow are broken off. When the shoots reach a meter in length, they are trained inward, and the side shoots are pinched back, leaving two or three leaves.
In years with excessively large harvests, thinning is required. Remove excess clusters to ensure uniform ripening of the berries.
Later, in the spring or fall, you can perform random pruning, removing immature, weak, excess, and dry shoots. It's important not to allow the vines to become too dense, as this will negatively impact the quality of the berries and the yield. Dense growth also increases the risk of disease.
Diseases and pests
Because the Northern Shoulderwort is susceptible to various diseases, comprehensive preventative treatments should be performed annually. The treatment schedule is described in the table.
| Period | Recommended medications |
| Before bud break, at temperatures above +4 degrees. | 3% copper sulfate, Quadris, Topaz or Strobi. |
| When the first 4–6 young leaves form on the shoots. | Nitrafen (200 grams per bucket of water). |
| 2 weeks before flowering begins. |
Mildew – 3% copper sulfate or Azophos. Oidium – Colloidal sulfur, Kumulus, Quadris and other sulfur-based preparations. |
| When the berries grow to the size of a pea. | Ridomil Gold or Topaz. |
| After the leaves have fallen and plant debris has been removed from the area. | Skor, Topaz, Acrobat or Copper sulfate 3%. |
In summer, if signs of gray mold are detected, spray the bushes with a medium concentration of potassium permanganate (5–7 grams per bucket of water). During berry ripening, use biological treatments such as Gamair or Alirin. Protect the bunches from wasps with gauze bags or special nets, and set traps filled with sweet fillings.
The Northern Pleistik has long been a favorite among winegrowers and has become a classic. The variety has successfully undergone many years of testing in various regions of Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Moldova, and other countries. During the ripening period, to prevent the loss of falling berries, lay or hang plastic under the bushes. The collected, clean fallen berries can be used for compote.
Reviews
Evgeniya
I live in a humid region, and surprisingly, my Northern scaly-sided ...
Victoria
I've been growing the 'shoulder' grape for eight years. I also have an old bush, I don't know how old it is, inherited from the previous owners of the dacha. I've noticed something interesting: one year, the clusters are very numerous, medium-sized and loose, while the following season, the clusters are dense and large. This happens year after year, and the yield remains consistent. The flavor is pleasant, the berries are very sweet, and the juice yield is good—perfect for wine! I recommend planting it, but be prepared for constant treatments against diseases.

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Alexander
I prepared two bushes of Siberian beauty and a plechistik. I'll try to see what happens. It's cold here in the Urals, in Pervouralsk.