Growing and caring for weeping mulberry

Trees

Some varieties of mulberry are grown exclusively for their tasty and healthy fruits, while others are also used in landscape design. The species mulberry tree grows up to 10–15 meters tall. There are also shorter, bushy, and standard forms, but weeping varieties are more suitable for decorating gardens and parks. Judging by reviews and photos, these trees look unique, are easy to grow, and require little maintenance.

Description and varieties

The compact weeping mulberry was bred primarily for ornamental purposes; there are also some non-fruit-bearing varieties, often referred to as park trees. The tree is deciduous, reaching up to 3 meters in height, with a crown spread of approximately 1.5–2 meters. The leaves of the weeping mulberry are larger than those of the species, but are similar in shape and color. In summer, the blades are green, but by mid-autumn they take on a straw-colored hue. The branches are long, drooping toward the ground, like those of a willow or willow. The trunk is straight and smooth.

Note!

During the first 2-3 years after planting, weeping mulberry grows very quickly, then the growth rate gradually slows. The average lifespan of a tree is approximately 150-200 years.

The flowering period and yield depend on the climate. In the central part of the country, mulberries typically bloom in early May, in the south in the last ten days of March, and in the northern regions closer to the end of spring. The harvest varies from July to August depending on the region. Grafted, one-year-old seedlings begin bearing fruit 2-3 years after planting, while ungrafted ones begin bearing fruit in 5 or 6 years. They produce abundant ovaries even in the most unfavorable years. Harvesting is convenient; there's no need to bend branches or carry a stepladder around the garden.

The drupes resemble blackberries without stalks, up to 1.5–5 cm long, weighing approximately 6 g. They are pink, dark purple, or white, sweet and juicy with a subtle tartness and a delicate, pleasant aroma. All varieties of mulberry grow well in the south, while white-fruited mulberries are recommended for northern regions. Regardless of the color of the drupes, they all contain a rich composition of nutrients beneficial to the human body. There are 17 species of weeping mulberry, most often found in cultivation, but some grow wild. The most popular hybrids are:

Black Baroness. Fruits are up to 4.5 cm long and dark purple. This variety is frost-hardy down to -30°C.
White mulberry Pendula. Its leaves are emerald, large, and heart-shaped. It blooms later than other varieties, in May. The drupes are white, juicy, yet firm, making them easy to transport.
Pink Smolenskaya. An easy-to-care-for, ornamental hybrid. The fruits are small, raspberry-colored, and very sweet. Sometimes it bears fruit in the first year after planting.

Species mulberries yield up to 100–115 kg per season. Weeping mulberries are less prolific, with a maximum yield of 90 kg in the south and only 70 kg in the north. Standard mulberries are popular among gardeners, so breeders continue to develop shorter varieties that can be used to decorate paths or for landscaping.

Ornamental weeping mulberries are planted in city parks, along roadsides, and along avenues. The trees are compact and neat, taking up little space and making them ideal for decorating small spaces. In winter, their leaves fall, but the trees remain beautiful thanks to their unusual, graceful, drooping branches. Mulberries are placed near terraces and arbors, planted individually or in groups, and used as hedges or as a backdrop for flowerbeds and flower gardens. In autumn, their bright yellow foliage complements spruce, arborvitaes, and firs.

Mulberry planting

Weeping mulberry, like other species, thrives in open, sunny, well-lit areas, away from tall trees and buildings that provide shade. Saplings should be planted on the south side of the plot, protected from gusty winds. There are no specific soil requirements, but the most robust, ornamental, and fruiting trees grow in cultivated, fertile, loamy and sandy loam soils with a neutral pH.

Attention!

Mulberry does not grow in marshy areas or in places with a high water table, or in highly saline soil.

The planting hole is prepared in the fall before frost or 2-3 weeks before the planned planting date. The hole is small, up to 60 cm deep and about 70 cm wide. Add 1.5-2 buckets of humus or compost to the bottom. Mineral fertilizers are applied a couple of weeks before planting the mulberry tree; they are added (mixed) into the soil from the hole, and then used as backfill. For each bucket of soil, use 50 g of urea, 70 g of superphosphate, and 50 g of potassium sulfate.

It's best to plant seedlings with closed root systems and only in safe locations. If the root system is exposed, check for dry or rotten areas. The optimal time for planting is late April or early May (before bud break). Fall or summer planting (August-October) is only acceptable in southern regions. This plant is heat-loving, and the trees should overwinter after they have fully adapted to their new location.

A container-bought seedling is watered generously two hours before planting, then transplanted along with the root ball. If the root is wrapped in plastic, remove it; if it's wrapped in a biodegradable material, such as thin cardboard, leave it in place. If the root is exposed, gently straighten it while backfilling. Mulberry planting technique:

at the bottom of the hole, make a mound from half of the previously prepared soil;
a peg is inserted in the center, which will later serve as a support for the tree;
a seedling is placed nearby and covered with the remaining soil mixture;
the soil is compacted slightly, and an earthen ridge up to 10 cm high is made around the trunk at a distance of 30–50 cm from it;
about 2-3 buckets of water are poured into the resulting hole, gradually allowing it to be absorbed;
The weeping mulberry seedling is tied to a peg, and the area around the tree trunk is mulched with peat, rotted sawdust, or dry grass.

When planting in the south, the seedling is buried up to the root collar; in northern regions and temperate climates, the root collar is buried approximately 5–6 cm deep. If mulberry trees are being planted purely for decoration, male saplings are selected, and for harvesting, male and female trees are planted next to each other. The distance between standard mulberry trees is 3 or 4 meters, and 5–6 meters from other trees. Planting material is purchased only from local nurseries; the trees are already adapted to the climate.

Features of cultivation

Proper care for weeping mulberry involves several mandatory steps, but overall, the plant is very low-maintenance. Young seedlings require regular watering: twice a week after planting, with approximately 15–20 liters of water applied under each tree. During rainy weather, watering is stopped. Gradually, the frequency of watering is reduced to once every 15 days.

Attention!

During hot and dry periods, return to the original watering schedule of twice a week. Throughout the summer, monitor the soil moisture, preventing waterlogging and preventing the soil from drying out to a depth of 5 cm.

During the initial stages, no additional feeding is necessary; the seedling receives sufficient fertilizer applied at planting. Winterization is essential for young trees up to 3-4 years of age. Before the first autumn frosts, the seedling is watered generously (approximately 30 liters of water), the branches are bent toward the ground as low as possible without breaking, and secured. The trunk is wrapped in burlap, completely covered with spruce branches or dry leaves, and a 10-15 cm layer of "insulation" is added. In winter, snow is raked up to the plantings. In the south, covering is not necessary. Care tips for a mature tree:

The mulberry tree must be watered when it sets fruit, and only additionally during prolonged drought;
immediately after the buds open, feed with urea (70 g per bucket of water); at the beginning of flowering and during the fruiting period, add a phosphorus-potassium mixture or ash - 500 g scattered in the tree trunk circle;
During the summer, weeds are pulled out by the roots, the soil is loosened after each watering and rain, and the mulch is changed periodically.

Weeping mulberry trees are trained on a standard tree approximately 1–1.5 m tall. The central shoot is not emphasized when shaping the crown; branches are pruned to the lower and lateral buds, creating a distinctive arch. The crown is thinned annually, removing dead, frost-damaged, old, and weak branches, and shortening overly long shoots. Pruning is done in the spring before bud break and after leaf fall, when the air temperature does not drop below 10°C. Tools (pruning shears, hacksaw) must be clean and well-sharpened.

Methods of reproduction

Mulberries are rarely grown from seed; the seeds can be male or female, take a long time to germinate, and develop very slowly. Seedlings require meticulous care and thrive only in good light and a specific microclimate. Mulberries are most often propagated by green or semi-woody cuttings. Branches with two or three buds are cut in the summer, rooted in soil directly in the garden or on a windowsill, and a mini greenhouse is built.

Less commonly, cuttings and shoots are used for planting. Seedlings with their own well-developed root system are separated from the parent tree and immediately transplanted to a new location (following all the rules). If desired, a single mulberry tree can produce both blue and white fruits; this is possible through grafting. Mulberry trees can be grafted in several ways, the simplest being copulation:

Identical oblique cuts are made on the scion and rootstock (between the buds).
The sections are connected in such a way that the mechanical fastening of the tissues between the cuttings is tight.
The attachment site is tied with special electrical tape or plastic film, it should be soft, food grade is suitable.

Attention!

When tying the graft with film, ensure that the scion does not shift, otherwise the cutting will not take root. Copulation is performed within two weeks after the sap begins to flow.

Experienced gardeners recommend grafting with a tongue; the process is slightly more complex but more reliable. The oblique cuts on the grafted parts are complemented by parallel notches; when joined, these overlap, ensuring the strongest possible connection between the cuttings. The bandage is removed only after the grafted branch begins to actively develop.

Reviews

Catherine

I thought about planting a weeping mulberry when I was planning the design of my dacha. I was skeptical about whether this heat-loving tree would thrive in the Leningrad region, and rightfully so. I bought two saplings at once, a male and a female, from a Moscow nursery. They've been growing for 12 years now, but they haven't borne any fruit. After winter, I cut off a third of the branches because they freeze. Perhaps the problem is the site—it's in a lowland, constantly damp and cool. Some friends have a mulberry tree high on a slope, and they share their harvest every summer. The trees are very beautiful; mine grow by the driveway, next to the spruce trees.

Andrey

Before planting the weeping mulberry, I carefully cleared the garden. I was told the trees wouldn't grow well where there were remnants of old trees. I started feeding them four years after planting, just when the mulberry tree bloomed. I use a complex fertilizer in the summer and a nitrogen fertilizer in the spring. I'm not often at the dacha, and the ripe berries fall off immediately, so I lay plastic sheets under the trees. I collect fresh berries for eating and dry the dried ones. I prune the trees every spring and fall, removing old, diseased branches and shortening the rest.

Finally, during epidemic years, and especially if there are abandoned orchards nearby, we recommend treating trees for diseases and pests three times: in the spring, after harvest, and in the fall. Planting and caring for weeping mulberries is simple; the key is to remember the key steps and carry them out on time. Well-maintained trees will reward you with bountiful harvests, decorate your garden, and, if properly placed, become its highlight.