How to combat diseases of sweet pepper seedlings

Growing bell peppers is challenging, as they require warmth, proper care, and careful attention to all agricultural practices. Nevertheless, the crop is extremely popular among Russian gardeners. A good harvest provides a long-lasting supply of nutrients. Just 50 grams of peppers contains the daily requirement of vitamin C.

Where do peppers begin in almost all regions? From seedlings, of course. It's at this stage of development that the crop is most vulnerable. Fresh young shoots are very attractive to harmful insects. While they can be destroyed, diseases are more difficult to control. So, it's best to avoid them by practicing preventative measures and following proper agricultural practices. Once a disease has appeared, it's important to detect it promptly and begin treatment by destroying the affected plants.

There are several groups of diseases affecting pepper seedlings. Let's look at each in detail.

Fungal diseases of pepper seedlings

The most common diseases account for 80%. Spores reach seedlings via wind, rain, and insects. They remain in the soil and plant debris for a long time.

Blackleg

It attacks seedlings from the time the shoots begin to form until 2-3 true leaves emerge. The main symptom is a darkening of the root collar and a black constriction at the base of the stem. If peppers are grown in a humid environment, the plant tissue will soften, the stem will break, and the shoot will die.

Blackleg fungi live in the upper soil layer. When they come into contact with the roots of pepper sprouts in high humidity, the pathogens spread to the plant.

Black leg appears due to disturbed growing conditions, which include:

• dense sowing;
• sharp temperature fluctuations;
• overwatering;

To prevent black leg infestation before sowing seeds, do the following:

• purchase high-quality seeds that are resistant to diseases;
• heat the soil mixture in the oven, steam it and cool it at the beginning of frost;
• water the material ready for planting with a solution of potassium permanganate or the following products: Renaissance, Radiance, Baikal;
• soak the seeds in potassium permanganate, then wash and plant;
• treat the planting material with immunomodulators, for example, Epin-Extra, Immunofitsit, Agat-25 K;
• use fungicides - Maxim, Fitosporin-M, Fitoros, placing the seeds in a cloth bag and treating according to the instructions;
• add the biological agent Trichodermin to the soil, which suppresses not only black leg, but also 60 other pathogens of root rot;
• dive the seedlings and do not thicken the plants;
• ventilate the room where the pepper seedlings are located, but not immediately after watering;
• supply plants with water frequently, but in small portions, and not vice versa;
• sprinkle the soil where the seeds or transplanted seedlings are located with pre-calcined river sand, crushed coal or ash;
• At the onset of the disease, remove defective shoots, and replant healthy ones and spray with Bordeaux mixture or potassium permanganate, then water using fungicides

According to experts, peat tablets disinfected and treated with a fungicide are suitable for growing pepper seedlings.

Gray rot

If wet white spots covered with a coating have formed on the lower part of the stem that touches the ground, this means the plant is infected with gray mold.

Spores remain in plant debris for a long time and are carried by insects, wind, and water. In high humidity and warm conditions, the spores can germinate and infect crops.

To get rid of gray mold, you need to:

• as a preventative measure, ventilate the seedlings in a timely manner;
• destroy diseased plants and place healthy ones in another container;
• at the beginning of the disease’s development, treat the sprouts with crushed tablets of activated charcoal or chalk;
• spray the shoots with garlic infusion: dissolve 30 g of grated garlic in about 5 liters of water and leave for 2 days;
• treat pepper seedlings with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture, potassium permanganate, Kuproksat;
• Use products that not only protect but also treat plants and prevent the formation of spores - Previkur, Ordan, Fundazol, Skor, Acrobat

Late blight

The first signs resemble blackleg. A constriction forms around the root, and a silky white coating appears on the infected tissue, indicating the maturation of spores.

Measures for the prevention and control of the disease are as follows:

• selection of varieties that are not sensitive to late blight;
• soaking seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate before sowing;
• compliance with all agricultural practices during cultivation, including reducing humidity;
• spraying newly infected shoots with iodine solution (5 ml per 1 liter of water);
• alternate use of Barrier and Zaslon;
• fertilizing the soil with potassium-phosphorus mixtures to quickly increase their stability;
• treating shoots with whey or garlic: dissolve 50 g in 10 liters of water and leave for a day, which will give excellent results after 10 days;
• If other methods are ineffective, use formulations such as Tattu, Quadris, Champion, Ridomil Gold, with strict adherence to recommendations

Fusarium and sclerocinia

Both of these diseases are also called wilt. They manifest themselves as follows: the plant first loses its leaves, then dries out. If you cut the pepper's root collar crosswise, you'll see infected, brown, clogged blood vessels.

The disease begins with root rot. Active spores first penetrate the small roots, and then, as the mycelium grows, the larger ones. The plant dies because vital processes are inhibited. This occurs due to the blockage of blood vessels by fungal mycelium and poisoning by harmful compounds.

The disease spreads rapidly under conditions of high humidity, temperature fluctuations, poor nutrition, weak plant immunity, and pest infestation. Initially, the disease is difficult to detect. Damaged shoots cannot be cured. Gardeners must focus on saving healthy peppers. To do this, they must:

• remove affected bushes;
• treat the soil with potassium permanganate or Planzir;
• use the same preventative measures as for late blight;
• select pepper varieties that are not susceptible to the disease;
• pre-plant seeds with Fundazol

Important: Fusarium spores can survive in the soil for up to 10 years.

Spores typically live in rotting plant debris. Therefore, the garden must be kept clean.

Bacterial diseases

These illnesses are caused by bacteria. They have no obvious symptoms and can coexist with other diseases, making a definitive diagnosis very difficult.

Vegetable crops suffer greatly from bacteria, which damage plants partially or completely, causing their death. For example, vascular lesions, root rot, tumors, and necrosis appear as burns or spots.

Peppers become infected with bacteria through small holes, either naturally occurring or due to mechanical deformation. The pathogens are carried by bacteria and animals.

A favorable environment and nutritious plant residues help bacteria to remain in the soil for a long time.

Black spot

It can appear on the plant immediately after sprouting. Stems and foliage become covered with dark, expanding spots bordered by yellow, causing the shoots to dry out.

Let us list the main measures of prevention and treatment:

• purchase basic and hybrid varieties of crops that are not sensitive to bacteria;
• Disinfect seeds before planting by soaking them in a solution of potassium permanganate for 10 minutes and rinsing; you can use Fitolavin-300;
• destroy infected pepper seedlings;
• disinfect the soil before planting: steam, freeze, calcine;
• spray seedlings with Bordeaux mixture

Lightning-fast withering

The pathogens enter the plant and attack its vascular system. As a result, nutrients are prevented from reaching the needed areas. Furthermore, harmful waste products are released. When the stem is cut, a white liquid appears.

How to deal with the problem:

• remove all diseased specimens;
• treat the seeds before planting with a folk remedy (crush 2 cloves of garlic and add water, soak the seeds there for half an hour), rinse them and dry them, and only then sow;
• do not plant seedlings after nightshades (crop rotation rule);
• If the previous point cannot be observed, change and disinfect the soil every year;
• control temperature and humidity;
• follow the recommended seedling planting pattern;
• for prevention, treat the crop with copper-containing agents;
• Feed the plants regularly so that they have enough strength to resist diseases

Soft rot

Affects all parts of the plant. Bacteria penetrate blood vessels and prevent them from functioning properly. As a result, the plants die back and may even die. The disease is most active in warm, humid weather.

To avoid infection you need to:

• treat planting material;
• disinfect the soil;
• ventilate greenhouses, water seedlings in the required amount, and do not allow moisture to stagnate in the trays;
• remove all plant debris, as this is where pathogens breed

Pepper cancer

It thrives in humid climates with temperatures of 25-30 degrees Celsius, where bushes grow close together. The bacteria are transmitted by insects and people using gardening tools.

The disease can affect any part of the plant. Symptoms of canker include dark brown spots, lighter in the center. Over time, these spots coalesce and develop a crust.

Recommendations for treatment and prevention:

• First, treat all affected shoots with copper-containing compounds (copper sulfate or copper oxide chloride);
• get rid of all infected specimens;
• In greenhouses and hothouses where crops with bacterial canker were grown, carry out a thorough treatment with methyl bromide and replace the soil

Viruses

Vectors: thrips, aphids, and nematodes. Viruses are very small, so they can only be seen with a microscope. They infect plants less frequently than bacteria, but they cause more damage.

The virus cannot survive without the host cell. It only functions within the host cell, which explains the plant defects. Shoots stop growing, and their stems and leaves become twisted.

Overwinter, viruses remain in dried plant parts, insects, and seeds. They are particularly partial to pepper shoots.

Tobacco mosaic

The virus invades cells, destroying chlorophyll. The leaves become marbled with white or emerald speckles. This pattern gives the disease its name. Eventually, the cells die.

The virus will not kill the plant if:

• perform pre-planting seed treatment;
• carefully remove side shoots from seedlings, taking into account that viruses penetrate damaged cells;
• fight against harmful insects that carry pathogens;
• monitor the condition of the greenhouse and change the soil if necessary;
• A week before planting, spray the seedlings with boric acid and repeat 7 days after moving them into open ground to boost the pepper's immunity;
• do not leave plant parts in greenhouses

The tobacco mosaic virus lives in soil and grass residues for up to 5 years.

Stolbur

It first attacks the upper parts of seedlings. The plant stunts and becomes dwarfed. Leaves curl, and their edges turn yellow. The disease is transmitted by thrips, spider mites, and aphids. Pepper varieties and hybrids are not resistant to this pest.

Precautions:

• destruction of diseased shoots;
• disinfection of soil and seeds;
• compliance with crop rotation rules when growing peppers;
• changing the soil in a greenhouse

There are currently no medications against stolbur.

https://youtu.be/G-GUKO-zujE

Reviews

The topic of garden seedling diseases is a hot topic on forums. Here are some examples:

"I recently read about how to disinfect store-bought soil. You can use Baikal and other EM products for this. Fourteen days before the procedure, add ½ a cup of Baikal to 10 liters of soil. Roll the loose end of the bag into a tube to squeeze out the air, and place it in a warm, dark place. This will encourage beneficial microorganisms to multiply and suppress pathogens. I'll try this next year. They're selling disgusting soil these days!" (Elena, Kostroma)

 

"I don't have seedlings growing, but I know of a situation where a friend added peat to the soil. Someone told her that its black color was a sign of good soil and that she needed to add more. As a result, some stems and shoots stopped developing. Viruses or fungi were suspected. The peat turned out to be acidic, which caused the seedlings to spoil. In this case, ash can help: water the plants with it or add it dry. It's too late to change the soil." (Victor, Novosibirsk)

 

"I use only the tried-and-true Bordeaux mixture, which has been in demand for 100 years. Plus, it's less expensive than all those HOMs. It should be applied to the underside of the leaves and around the bush. I also add a micronutrient complex. Also, to prevent diseases, peppers need to be well-fed, but not over-fertilized." (Lyudmila, Nizhny Novgorod)

Sweet pepper seedlings can suffer from various ailments. But there are no hopeless situations. After all, as a rule, all plant problems are the result of non-compliance with agricultural practices. Pay close attention to your garden crops, and they will produce a bountiful harvest.