Raspberries are a common plant grown in every garden. The bushes are low-maintenance, and different varieties vary in flavor and color. Black raspberries are not a new breed; the blackberry-like variety is considered fruitful, drought-resistant, and resistant to diseases and pests.
Having decided to grow this plant in the garden, the gardener should familiarize themselves with foreign and domestic varieties – each has its advantages.
The appeal of growing crops
Compared to classic red varieties, black raspberries have advantages; experienced gardeners value them for the following characteristics:
- absence of root growth;
- resistance to lack of moisture;
- ripe berries do not fall from the branches of the bush;
- some varieties have pronounced resistance to temperature drops;
- not susceptible to pest attack;
- has a powerful, deep root system;
- the fruit is easily removed from the stalk.
Many varieties are winter-hardy, allowing them to be grown in Siberian conditions without the need for additional resources to prepare for winter. The berries have medicinal properties, and the plant itself is undemanding regarding soil composition.
You may be interested in:Description of the variety and its characteristics
Black raspberry varieties are not a new development; the first varieties were developed in America as early as the 19th century. The following varieties are popular in Russia:
- Boysenberry. An early-ripening variety, it's characterized by high yields; with proper care, the fruit is large. The shoots are thornless, making it easy to harvest. It's not particularly frost-hardy, but with protection, it overwinters well in harsh climates. It's quite popular among both amateur and professional gardeners; its strong immunity means it rarely gets sick.
- New Logan. A foreign-bred variety distinguished by its tall growth and early fruiting. It is not frost-hardy, so it is more often grown in temperate climates.
- Ugolek. A domestic variety that produces a good harvest with proper care. Its fruits have an interesting sweet and sour flavor, distinct from red raspberries.
- Litach. A Polish variety, developed in 2008 after painstaking work. The round berries ripen in midsummer and have a bloom. The shoots are long and thorny.
- Gifts of Siberia. Recommended for cultivation in Siberia and the Russian Far East, it surpasses classic varieties in frost resistance. The berries are distinguished by their rich flavor and aroma. Suitable for canning, they belong to the dessert group.
- Luck. This variety also has another name: Povorot. The plant is resistant to pests and winter hardiness. Under favorable conditions, a single bush can yield up to 6 kg of fruit per season.
Cumberland – a variety that deserves a special mention. It's the first choice for gardeners to become familiar with chokeberry varieties. Although this plant was bred abroad, it is widely grown in the CIS countries. Its positive qualities include:
- yield: harvest from 2 to 10 kg of fruit from each bush;
- early maturity – the first harvest in the middle zone is carried out at the end of June;
- bright, rich blue-black color;
- resistant to diseases and pests.
Cumberland is the result of a successful cross between a classic, large, everbearing raspberry and a blackberry. By providing adequate winter cover, gardeners can vary the ripening period of the fruit.
Cumberland stems are robust, developing a bluish bloom as they grow and develop. They have large thorns, but they are few in number, so harvesting is no different from harvesting with classic varieties. The shoots reach up to 3 meters in length, so it's best to train them into an arch. Keep in mind that all black-fruited varieties have a strong, developed root system, so plant each bush approximately 30 cm apart.
Planting features of this variety
Caring for black raspberries is not much different from cultivating traditional varieties of the crop, but to simplify the process and avoid major problems, pay attention to the following features:
- Planting raspberriesIt's recommended to plant the plant in the spring, even though you won't be able to harvest it that way. If the seedling is received in the fall or summer, it can be planted immediately, so there are no strict restrictions.
- Light. When choosing a location for this plant, keep in mind that, like red varieties, black rhododendron thrives on light. Unlike red varieties, it requires additional protection from wind.
- Soil. This plant is undemanding regarding soil composition; it grows and bears fruit well in loamy soils. Fertilizing does not affect yield.
- Watering. Tolerates drought without dropping fruit or leaves. Abundant watering is recommended during and after fruit ripening. Avoid allowing the soil to dry out before winter.
To plant the black chokeberry variety, dig holes up to 50 cm deep and half-fill them with a mixture of humus and ash. Local soil is added to the holes and the seedling is placed. Immediately after planting, it is watered and mulched with a mixture of peat, compost, and straw.
When planting large quantities of seedlings, consider planting them in two rows. This will save space and simplify harvesting. Once the shoots have grown, they are tied to the trellis, forming an arch. The shoots should not lie on the ground, as this will cause the plant to deteriorate.
Caring for black raspberries in autumn
With the right planting location, caring for black raspberries in the fall is straightforward. The key factors are adequate light and protection from wind. Unlike red varieties, black raspberries have fragile shoots, making them easily broken.
Fall pruning of black raspberries requires tying the stems. This will prevent excessive drying and damage from minor frost damage.
The roots of these species penetrate deep into the soil and rely on groundwater for nutrition. Despite this, additional fertilizing in the fall is essential for a good wintering and a bountiful harvest. Before covering the bush for the winter, it should be fertilized with a fertilizer containing a broad spectrum of micronutrients.
The plants are resistant to pests, but viral diseases can cause significant damage. Before wintering, remove all fallen leaves and damaged shoots from the raspberry patch after sanitary pruning.
Since these varieties bear fruit on one-year-old shoots, pruning should be done carefully, removing only immature parts of young branches that will die during the winter. This is essential, otherwise there is a risk of fungal infection of the entire bush. In spring, pruning should be done only on lateral shoots, cutting them back to the sixth bud.
Autumn watering of raspberries
In early autumn, after the last ovary has been harvested, reduce watering but don't stop completely. This will ensure the maturation and lignification of young shoots, preventing their death during cold weather. Watering should be reduced completely during rainfall. If there is no rain, water each bush every other day, adding 10 liters to the soil. Avoid completely replanting the root ball. Watering is stopped when the temperature in the region drops to 0 degrees Celsius during the day.
Protection from diseases and pests
All debris from under the bushes is collected and burned. The resulting ash can be used as fertilizer next season. If the plants are 100% pest-free, the leaves can be left on the ground – they will provide reliable shelter for the winter and will rot and become fertilizer by spring.
In October, carry out preventative sanitary treatment with Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of up to 5%. Plants are treated from the roots to the shoots. When treating, keep the following in mind:
- the composition needs a day without rain to operate;
- treatment is carried out in clear weather, in the morning;
- The shoots must be dry.
Pruning black raspberries
In the fall, all two-year-old shoots are pruned back to the ground. Young stems are tied to a driven stake to prevent them from breaking due to excessive snow and ice accumulation. This pruning is essential because all black chokeberry varieties have long, strong shoots. Failure to do so will result in dense growth and reduced fruiting.
Some gardeners begin pruning as early as July. This will prevent excessive growth but reduce the yield. This approach is appropriate when the goal is to obtain stem mass with one-year-old shoots for the following year—meaning you'll have to forego some harvesting one year to get more the following year. If the variety's yield is satisfactory, there's no need for summer pruning.
You may be interested in:Pruning times
Don't delay this procedure. Pruning is carried out after the bush's leaves have fallen, in several stages. First, remove old shoots over two years old, weak, and diseased. Sanitary treatment is essential for the successful maturation of shoots. Failure to do so will result in the plant's winter death. It's best to begin pruning in October, but always take weather conditions into account. The cuts should be tightened before frost sets in.
A bush that still has foliage should be pruned after it has been completely removed mechanically or naturally. The leaves will fall from the bush in winter and become a breeding ground for pests.
Raspberry patches need to be cleared of excess debris before the cold weather sets in. Therefore, the approximate deadlines for each region are as follows:
- Moscow region – end of September-October;
- Urals and Siberia – August;
- South of Russia and Krasnodar Krai – November.
Every gardener decides for themselves whether it's better to prune black raspberries—spring or fall. Most agree that sanitary pruning is essential to ensure a good winter survival without losses. This is because various pests often overwinter on the shoots.
Why prune raspberries and is it necessary?
There are 3 types of processing:
- sanitary – damaged stems and branches of the plant are removed;
- formative – necessary for forming structures, creating arches or green hedges;
- preventative – carried out in the fall, includes not only the removal of damaged areas, but also the cutting of old shoots.
Raspberry pruning is necessary to maintain a uniform bush. In emergency cases, for sanitary purposes, pruning can be performed at any time.
Step-by-step pruning instructions
The timing of winter pruning of black raspberries varies depending on the region, but the technique remains the same. The following tools are required for this procedure:
- pruning shears;
- garden knife;
- lopper;
- thick gloves;
- small rake.
The algorithm of actions is as follows:
- All instruments are treated with a disinfectant solution. Chlorhexidine is convenient to use.
- Using powerful, sharp pruning shears, remove shoots that are two years old and move them outside the area.
- Unripe shoots are cut off with a lopper or a garden knife.
- Using a rake, remove leaves and cut parts of the bush.
To obtain a spreading bush, gardeners recommend pruning the plant to different heights, that is, several shoots are shortened by 10, 20, 30 cm, and tall bushes are cut in half.
This method not only improves formation but also ensures abundant and uniform fruiting throughout the seasons, as berries ripen earlier on long shoots than on short ones. Another argument in favor of pruning in the fall is that shortened shoots are easier to tie and secure together, making it easy to cover the area with any material without additional structures.
Pruning before frost
Autumn pruning is best done before the cold weather sets in. If the variety is characterized by late fruit ripening, the operation should begin before the leaves fall. The speed of ripening of young branches and the yield the following year depend on the timing of the pruning.
All branches that have produced fruit this season must be removed. They must be cut close to the ground, as the stumps left behind can harbor insects. To achieve this, all broken and diseased branches must be trimmed.
In warm climates, such as southern Russia, young shoots may not need to be removed. They will easily survive the winter under cover. If winter is difficult for raspberries, such as in Siberia, the shoots are removed to prevent rot.
Double pruning of bushes: several important nuances
Double pruning, or the Sobolev method, produces results, but it requires skill and precision. If using this method, the bushes are planted in the same area and the soil is generously fertilized with organic matter throughout the summer.
At the end of May, remove unwanted shoots, and after the branch grows 15-20 cm, pinch off the top. After this support, lateral shoots begin to grow, and by the end of the growing season, they will be 50 cm long.
The second pruning stage is carried out the following year. After the foliage has matured, the tops of the shoots are pruned back by 20 cm. This is done to awaken dormant buds and activate fruit production. This technique requires strict adherence to timing.
Pruning for shortening
The height of the cuts depends on the plant's size and condition. Two-year-old branches must be removed to the base, as they will no longer produce fruit. One-year-old branches are cut back by half.
Pruning for shortening implies:
- complete removal of old stems;
- removal of annual branches;
- thinning of young shoots.
After manipulation, the plant should be treated with a solution of copper sulfate.
Features of pruning remontant raspberries for the winter
Remontant It is recommended to prune raspberries in the fall, then pruning will not affect fruiting. When pruning, remove all old shoots level with the soil, as well as any branches that bore fruit that year.
The work process includes:
- the bush is cleared of dry branches, old shoots and young growth are removed;
- the trunks are cut down to a height of 60 cm;
- all leaves are removed from the front garden;
- The shoots are tied into bundles and bent to the ground.
Everbearing varieties require additional care, because they are not frost-resistant, so they must be covered for the winter.
Top dressing
During the growing season, fruiting plants lose most of their nutrients, so autumn is a good time for a thorough fertilization. Fertilizer will enrich the soil with nutrients and microelements, enhancing the plant's performance.
After fertilizing, treat the plant for pests and water it again three days later. After watering, prepare the plant for winter. Fertilizing is best done after fall pruning, so that the nutrients reach the stems that will bear fruit the following year.
Mulching
In early autumn, the soil in the raspberry patch is dug to a depth of 10 cm. Compost is used as mulch. The soil is then sprinkled with a 5-7 cm layer. In some cases, peat, sawdust, or straw can be used. The top is then covered with soil.
Regular mulching helps build humus in the soil beneath the plant. To ensure strong sprouts, water them generously after applying mulch.
Shelter for the winter
Raspberry bushes require shelter in Russia's northern regions. If the region is characterized by snowy winters and stable temperatures (no more than -15 degrees Celsius), there's no need to cover the raspberry bushes. This is because the vines of black-fruited varieties bend easily. After pruning, they are tied into bunches and bent to the ground, tied to a stake.
Regardless of the region, the following varieties are covered for the winter:
- large-fruited with high yield;
- without thorns;
- young plants.
Shelter is required if the region has a harsh winter and there is no snow.
An important condition is to cover the bush before frost sets in, as it's impossible to bend raspberry branches without breaking them. Before bending the plant, drive wooden or metal hooks into the ground, wrap the bush with thick rope, and tie it down. Cover the top with non-woven fabric and wrap it with rodent netting. In northern regions, snow is placed on top of this covering—this will ensure that even the most demanding varieties survive the winter.
Snow retention
Snow retention is a technique used to retain snow in areas. It's used to protect plants from freezing and increase the nutrient potential of the soil mixture. If the soil is covered with snow, the plant can better withstand cold winds, the above-ground part is protected from icing, and the root zone is protected from freezing.
Garden crops need snow to protect them from severe frosts and to provide moisture in the spring. Snow retention begins after the first frost, when there's a threat of wind. Ideally, the air temperature should remain around 0 degrees Celsius. The plant trunk is covered with snow to create a mound at the base. To prevent snow washout, protective shields are installed near the raspberry patch.
If snow has accumulated on tree branches, it can also be shaken off and manually moved under the black raspberry bushes, creating an additional protective barrier.
In conclusion
Chokeberry varieties are common among experienced gardeners, and they're easy to care for. These varieties boast excellent qualities, making them popular among gardeners. If basic recommendations are followed, the bush overwinters well and produces a bountiful harvest each season.
When to collect raspberry and currant leaves for drying for the winter
Pruning remontant raspberries: how to do it correctly
Black raspberries in autumn: care and preparation for winter shelter, pruning
Proper care of raspberries in autumn and their preparation for winter