How to cure blackleg on pepper seedlings using folk remedies

Blackleg is a bacterial fungal disease that causes root rot in seedlings. Visually, the blackened stems of growing seedlings begin to disintegrate, causing them to fail and eventually die.

Description

When growing peppers, blackleg disease most often appears between the emergence of the first shoots and the formation of 2-3 full-fledged leaves on the stems. The disease can often be suspected by the condition of the leaves, but the cause lies in an already damaged root at the base of the stem.

Microspores of dangerous fungi typically remain in the soil. They are not affected by severe frosts, and after processing the dead remains of last year's harvest, weakened living structures are used. They are particularly dangerous for weakened, developing pepper seedlings, which must be protected. However, healthy, robust plants are not susceptible to blackleg.

Blackleg infestation occurs through the root system and into the stem. At this stage, the bacteria actively extract all the nutrients and juices from the plant. If the air temperature is above 5°C and the soil is sufficiently moist, the bacteria begin to develop and multiply rapidly, even exponentially. The optimal temperature is around 25°C and humidity above 60%. After harvest, the bacteria themselves remain viable for up to 4 years.

Causes of black leg

Failure to follow proper growing practices and storage conditions can lead to the death of pepper seedlings. Among the main causes of blackleg damage to seedlings are:

• contamination of the soils used;
• too high seed density;
• excessive soil moisture with stagnant water;
• insufficient ventilation of the room and containers in which the pepper itself is grown;
• excessively high indoor air temperature;
• sharp changes in air temperature.

The process of destruction of shoots after infection with black leg usually lasts about a week.

What does blackleg look like?

Infectious fungi are present in virtually any soil and become active when favorable conditions arise. When seedlings are infected, the hypocotyls first turn brown. This is followed by thinning of the stems, the tissues rapidly softening and becoming watery. As a result, within 5 to 7 days, the plants simply collapse, as if mown down.

To prevent the spread of the disease early and save seedlings, it's essential to carefully inspect them daily, especially the roots. Prompt first aid can help stop the spread of the disease to the remaining shoots. A prime warning sign is darkening of the root collar and gradual wilting of the seedlings in warm, sunny weather.

How to identify blackleg in seedlings

Because the blackleg pest is a soil-borne threat, the first signs of damage to pepper seedlings aren't always immediately noticeable. Furthermore, the disease itself is focal, and not all seedlings are affected at the same time. When carefully inspecting growing seedlings, it's important to pay attention to the color and condition of the lower stem. The appearance of dark spots on the stems, as well as soft, watery stems, are signs of the disease.

If such problems are detected, it's crucial to inspect the stems growing near the damaged one. Proper and timely soil treatment will save the seedlings and ensure a good harvest of beautiful, juicy peppers.

Protection against blackleg by hilling

One effective way to protect plants from blackleg is gentle yet simple hilling. The method is as follows:

1. As soon as the first shoots begin to appear on the soil surface, watering of the soil is stopped for at least 2 - 3 days.
2. The soil must be carefully loosened when it is sufficiently dry, and the rows with seedlings must be hilled up.
3. The next watering should be done moderately and precisely, in the furrows formed between the seedling rows. This will keep the stems dry and prevent the growth of bacteria present in the soil.

The procedure itself must be repeated every 4–5 days until the sprouts become stronger.

How to fight the disease

Prevention is more effective than any treatment. That's why it's important to use high-quality seeds and healthy, fertilized soil. One important tip is to sow seeds no earlier than the time indicated on the packaging. This can weaken their immunity, making the seedlings more susceptible to blackleg.

As a preventative measure, it is also recommended to use special peat tablets or sow future seedlings in individual pots or other containers. If the first signs of dark spots and damaged roots are noticed on the seedlings, the plant itself should be completely removed from the container. After a detailed inspection of the remaining seedlings, a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate is applied to the soil at a ratio of 3 grams per 10 liters of water.

Alternatively, a solution of Fitosporin (100 ml per 10 liters of water) can be used. It should be applied to the soil itself and also sprayed on the plants. A 1% Bordeaux mixture is a suitable substitute for Fitosporin. Additionally, the soil should be sprinkled with a mixture of sifted wood ash and copper sulfate (1 cup per 1 teaspoon, respectively).

If most of the seedlings are found to be infected, it's crucial to separate the still-healthy ones into separate, disinfected containers. Affected seedlings should be destroyed along with the soil. Transplanted plants should be placed in warm conditions, with temperatures no lower than 18-20°C, and kept out of direct sunlight. Allow the new soil to dry for several days and then treat it with a fungicide, such as Baktofit. After 6-8 days, the sprouts should root, and only then should the seedlings be moved to a cooler location.

A baking soda solution, prepared at a ratio of 1 teaspoon per glass of water, has also proven effective. This solution should be applied to the soil, but only after the diseased seedlings have been completely eliminated.

Prevention

One of the key characteristics of blackleg disease is its rapid growth in highly acidic soil. In such cases, it is recommended to pre-treat the soil with:

• dolomite flour;
• lime;
• chalk;
• stove ash.

Furthermore, soil where peppers, eggplants, or tomatoes were grown last year is not suitable for growing seedlings. It's better to choose soil where garden herbs, such as parsley or celery, were previously grown. Soil where beans, peas, and mustard greens were grown last year is also favorable.

One of the mandatory steps is to water the soil with a boiling, dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. To ensure maximum steaming, cover the container with protective film. In this case, sowing the seeds is done only after the soil has completely cooled. Treating the soil with copper sulfate is also a good idea.

In addition to soil preparation and using high-quality seeds, special attention should be paid to the sterility of the seeds and the careful transplanting of the seedlings. If the boxes have been previously used, it is recommended to thoroughly wash them with soapy water or any other disinfectant solution and rinse them thoroughly.

You should also avoid using immature compost as a soil fertilizer, as it provides the best conditions for the activation of fungal spores.

Creating a microclimate

Given the specific nature of fungal disease activation in the soil, it's important to ensure an appropriate microclimate for growing seedlings in advance. This primarily applies to the following rules:

• performing the next watering of seedlings only after the soil has moderately dried out after the previous one;
• When watering, water should be directed directly into the soil, without touching the leaves and stems;
• The protective film is removed as soon as the first shoots begin to appear, as it is this film that creates dangerous condensation, increases humidity and prevents the seedlings from being saturated with oxygen;
• seedlings should be grown in a warm place with good lighting;
• Do not allow the soil to be seeded too densely; the optimal distance is considered to be at least 0.7–1 cm.

Furthermore, it's not recommended to use nitrogen fertilizers when watering. This causes the stems to stretch excessively, thinning them and making them more vulnerable. Sudden temperature fluctuations are also unacceptable.

Reviews

Ekaterina Alexandrovna, 48 years old

To prevent blackleg, it is recommended to use fungicides, such as Fitolavin. Its solution can be used not only on the seedling soil but also on the bushes themselves. It is a versatile product. The only caveat is that the treatment should be carried out 2-3 weeks before transplanting the bushes to their permanent soil. A proven folk remedy worth considering is an infusion of onion peels and diluted alcohol in a ratio of 1 to 10. Repeat the treatment after 6-8 days.