What to plant in the fall at your dacha: tips for gardeners and homesteaders

Autumn is the time for harvesting, pruning, preparing plants for winter, and tidying up the garden. People typically don't plan to plant new crops at this time, but experienced gardeners know that certain varieties of shrubs, flowers, vegetables, and herbs, planted in winter, become more resilient and produce a harvest in early spring. A stronger root system and frost resistance reduce the risk of disease and susceptibility to pests and increase yields. To reap the benefits of fall planting, it's best to know in advance what's best to plant during this period.

What are the benefits of planting in the fall?

Some believe that there's no point in planting anything in the garden in the fall because there's a high risk of the seeds dying. However, it's important to remember that many varieties survive the winter well, so it's best to focus on these when choosing. Plants that survive the winter well will become stronger and produce a good early harvest. Natural selection will occur, resulting in the strongest shoots, those most resistant to frost and disease, surviving and sprouting. The main advantages of fall planting include:

• saving time in spring for preparing soil, greenhouses, and fertilizing;
• early harvest;
• You can use seeds whose shelf life is approaching its end;
• in autumn the soil is well moistened and does not require additional watering after planting;
• “Winter” crops are not as afraid of spring frosts, which can only destroy seeds planted in the spring;
• A strong root system is formed, thanks to which the plant will receive more moisture and microelements from the soil in the spring.

It is worth considering, however, that in addition to the benefits, there are also risks:

• If you plant a plant early enough in the fall at your dacha, it will sprout and die in the frost;
• Not all crops will survive the winter, you need to choose only those that are able to “overwinter”;
• only light soil is suitable;
• the site should not be on a slope, in a depression, or near water bodies, so that the spring thaw does not destroy the seeds;
• In early spring and frosts after germination, the shoots are at risk.

What to plant at your dacha in the fall

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Onions and garlic are most often planted in garden plots in the fall to ensure an early harvest next year and the opportunity to enjoy fresh greens early. Garlic planted between rows of strawberries will also repel pests with its aroma. Dill, parsley, physalis, parsnips, carrots, beets, turnips, and leafy greens can also be planted in the winter. Be sure to leave room for flowers, shrubs, and fruit trees.

Some areas will be useful sow with green manureTo enrich the soil with essential nutrients and microelements by spring, winter crops such as vetch, mustard, rye, and oats are suitable for this purpose. Depending on the soil type and the chosen crop, the soil will be enriched with nitrogen, sulfur, and phosphorus. For best results, combine several green manures in one area to achieve comprehensive soil enrichment. In addition to fertilizing, vetch, for example, will help combat attacks by slugs, snails, and pigeons, while oats prevent rot and make clay soils more loose.

Autumn flowers for planting

In the fall, both annual and perennial flowers are planted. Bulbous flowers are most often chosen, and bushes are also planted and seeds are sown. For each variety, planting time, soil type, and flowerbed location must be considered. The key is to plant no later than a month before winter. The optimal time is from early September to late October.

Bulbs need to be prepared in advance: choose the strongest ones, dry them, and plant them deep enough to prevent them from sprouting before frost. Some varieties are best covered for the winter. Perennial bushes are planted in September, seeds can be sown in October, and small-bulb muscari can be started as early as August.

Perennials

Most perennial flowers are planted, divided, or transplanted in October. The soil needs to be prepared and fertilized, as they will be growing in the same spot for several years. It's best to dig the holes in advance—in spring or summer. The root system should be closed; these can be rooted cuttings or layers from the previous year. Some perennial seeds don't germinate without stratification, so they won't survive if planted in the spring or attempted to start seedlings indoors. These include hellebore, delphinium, and primrose. Some gardening companies warn of this, so it's important to read the packaging carefully if you're choosing such varieties for the first time.

Phlox

It thrives in sunny areas and partial shade. Replant with the root ball. The shoot should have at least two stems; after dividing, trim the shoots to no more than 20 cm.

Rudbeckia

An easy-to-grow plant, the main thing is regular watering. It grows tall stems, which eventually need to be tied to a support. It's best to choose fertile soil in full sun or partial shade. If the soil is clayey, add sand and compost.

Primrose

Propagated by seed or rhizomes in open, fertile, loose soil. It prefers shade and partial shade under trees and shrubs, away from direct sunlight.

Heuchera

The best planting location is a west- or east-facing plot in partial shade from other plants. In full sun, it requires regular watering. It blooms most profusely in loose, fertile soil.

Lavender

It thrives in full sun, but growth slows significantly if grown elsewhere. It propagates by seed in open ground and does not tolerate excess moisture.

Lily

Plant the bulbs in September in a well-lit spot, but avoid shade before lunch. Direct sunlight is undesirable, as it will cause the leaves and stems to burn. Keep the soil moderately moist; waterlogging can kill the plant.

Gentian

It thrives in sunny areas with some partial shade. It prefers well-drained loamy soil, which should be amended with rotted leaves, sand, and wood ash before planting. Its vibrant blue flowers make it a stunning addition to rock gardens and flowerbeds.

Annuals

The timing of annual flower planting varies by region. The warmer the autumn, the later the planting should be. In southern regions, this is mid-November or even early December. In temperate climates, it's late October or early November, provided temperatures don't rise above freezing. If temperatures remain consistently above freezing, the seeds will begin to germinate and can be killed by frost. Winter-sown seeds bloom later than established seedlings (approximately 2-3 weeks), but earlier than those sown outdoors in spring.

Annuals are planted before winter in:

• flower beds (suitable for taproot systems that do not tolerate transplantation well);
• school (with further shelter under a greenhouse);
• containers (for those cases when the soil is not suitable or groundwater is located close to the surface).

Lavatera

The soil can be any, as long as it's loose and light. It tolerates drought well, but can die from waterlogging.

Iberis

It grows on rocky, sandy soils in open, sunny areas. It does not tolerate dampness well. It is very low maintenance and easily survives without fertilizer.

Alyssum

It thrives and flowers in open areas in any soil. It develops strong, branched stems that trail along the ground. Waterlogged areas with stagnant water are detrimental to it.

Eschscholzia

Dry, sandy soil and a sunny location are ideal. Watering is only necessary during prolonged droughts. After planting in the fall, mulch with dry leaves.

Delphinium

It also prefers full sun but tolerates partial shade. Its shoots grow tall, so it's best to choose a location under a tree, near a wall, or next to a fence to prevent strong winds from damaging the stems.

Cosmos

Can be planted after the ground freezes. It does not require fertilizing, is drought-resistant, and thrives in any soil. Frequent watering hinders development, slowing growth.

Godetia

It prefers loamy soil, which requires digging before planting and loosening in the spring, then the seedlings will germinate quickly.

Trees for planting in autumn

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Trees with well-developed root systems should be planted first in October to ensure they'll thrive over the winter. They don't require much watering because they can draw moisture from the lower soil layers. These include pear and apple trees. Plum, cherry plum, apricot, cherry, and peach trees will also tolerate winter planting.

Proper soil preparation is crucial, as fertilizers are applied for a period of seven years, during which the tree needs nourishment and development. If there is insufficient fertilizer, the seedling will die or grow for a long time without bearing fruit.

In addition to fruit trees, it's recommended to plant conifers in the fall—fir, pine, juniper, and spruce. Thuja and hemlock also thrive. These trees overwinter well and acclimate easily.

To prevent the sapling from dying in winter and being attacked by rodents, stakes are installed around it, covered with burlap, and filled with leaves and sawdust. After the snow falls, the top layer around the tree is compacted to protect it from frost and provide moisture for development in the spring.

Fruit and ornamental shrubs

In the fall, both fruit and berry bushes and ornamental shrubs will thrive. It's important to choose those that can withstand frost. Hawthorn and red currant should be planted first—the former has a well-developed root system, while the latter requires full sunlight. Carefully select a location for these bushes and fertilize the soil; then they will delight you with beautiful foliage and delicious fruit.

Those who use phytomedicine plant rose hips, honeysuckle, viburnum, and barberry. Suitable for decorating the plot are:

• boxwood;
• spirea;
• mock orange;
• holly;
• lilac;
• jasmine;
• snowberry;
• euonymus;
• clematis;
• bird cherry;
• juniper;
• privet.

Fruit-bearing plants that are planted until mid-October include black currants, gooseberries, raspberries, and blackberries.

Popular vegetables and herbs for autumn planting at the dacha

Vegetables are also sown in the fall, but this isn't suitable for all varieties. Most won't survive the winter, dying in the ground, but there are quite a few that will survive the winter, sprout early in the spring, and produce an early harvest. Onions, garlic, parsnips, parsley, carrots, tomatillos, and radishes can all be sown in September-November.

Onion

In the fall, three types of onions are planted in the garden: nigella seeds, turnips for greens, and sets for bulb formation. The plot must be prepared by clearing weeds, disinfecting with copper sulfate, and creating rows of beds. A thick layer of humus or peat moss mulch is essential. The bulbs should be no more than 4 cm deep to prevent them from rotting over the winter.

Onion sets

In the spring, it develops rather weak green shoots, but by midsummer, the onion sets grow into large bulbs. The seeding material—bulbs no larger than 1 cm—is planted throughout the fall, from September to November, planting them 3-4 cm deep. Leave 5-6 cm between bulbs within a row, and space rows 13 cm apart. The most popular and resilient varieties are Carmen and Sturon; they are least susceptible to bolting.

Turnips for greens

For juicy, firm greens that will delight you in early spring, choose select onions or sets larger than 1 cm. The bulb diameter should be 3-4 cm. Plant at a depth of 5 cm in mid-October, 15 days before the onset of consistently below-zero temperatures. Watering is not required, but mulching is essential.

Nigella onion

Nigella (black cumin) is the black seed of the onion plant. Sow black onions in late October or early November, even if there's snowfall, to prevent them from sprouting. Place the seeds 2.5-3 cm apart in rows, spaced 20 cm apart. Plant them at a depth of 1.5-2 cm. If the ground is frozen, cover with sand, humus, peat, sawdust, or fallen leaves. More seeds are needed, as it's unknown how many will survive the winter. If the seedlings are too dense in the spring, thin them out.

Garlic

At the end of September, beginning of October, they also plant winter garlicFor this, select larger cloves; the larger they are, the larger the heads will grow. Place healthy cloves, free from damage and signs of disease, into the holes, pointed side up, with the bottoms removed to prevent them from interfering with germination. They should not be divided in advance; this is done directly on the day of planting. Leave 20 cm between rows, and 15-20 cm between holes within a row. The depth should not be more than 5-6 cm.

Before planting, dig up the soil, removing clods, stones, and weeds. Avoid adding manure; mulch with peat, sawdust, or humus, which is removed in spring.

Carrot

To obtain an additional harvest, carrots are also planted in the fall. Seeds are sown 15 days before the onset of frost, when temperatures are no higher than 2-3 degrees Celsius. The amount of seed required is 25% greater than in the spring to account for potential losses. Space the seeds 2-3 cm apart, and rows 20 cm apart.

Beet

Beet It doesn't like cold very much, so not all varieties survive the winter. Some gardeners have difficulty choosing the optimal planting time to prevent the plant from freezing and sprouting before the cold weather sets in. Experienced gardeners recommend the following varieties:

• "Cold-resistant-19"
• "Podzimnyaya 474"
• "Incomparable"
• "Bordeaux".

The rest are susceptible to bolting. You can begin sowing in early November, increasing the seed quantity by 15% for safety. Rows are spaced 20 cm apart, with 10 cm between holes. The depth is 2-3 cm, and a 4 cm layer of mulch is applied on top.

Radish

If you plant radishes in early November, the first harvest will be ready by mid-April. If the spring is prolonged, it can be harvested by early May. As with beets, the sowing period is determined by weather conditions, when temperatures are around 0°C. Rows are spaced 10 cm apart, with 3 cm between seeds. The seeding depth should be no more than 2-3 cm, and a 3 cm layer of mulch should be applied on top. Varieties least susceptible to bolting include 'Dungansky,' 'Sofit,' 'Krasny Velikan,' and 'Mokhovsky.'

Green

Not all gardeners take advantage of the opportunity to plant greens before winter, arguing that they sprout quickly in the spring. However, some experienced gardeners treat themselves to herbs immediately after winter, sowing seeds in the fall. Sorrel, dill, and parsley tolerate cold well and require little additional care, while parsnips are even better planted in winter to allow them to undergo stratification, resulting in stronger, disease-resistant seedlings in the spring.

It's very profitable to sow wild garlic in the fall. This useful crop grows anywhere, without any special requirements—even near a fence, under trees, or in the shade. It propagates by bulbs and seeds, and can be planted together with onions and garlic.

Leaf parsley

Spring parsley takes a long time to germinate and grows slowly, so herb lovers prefer to sow it in the fall to get the first harvest sooner. The beds should be dug and fertilized, with rows spaced 15 cm apart, seeded 1.5 cm deep, and 3 cm between holes. Cover with soil or sand. Temperatures should be kept low to prevent germination, so don't begin sowing until stable weather conditions of 0-1ºC (32-33ºF) arrive. You'll need about a third more seeds than in spring.

Some gardeners recommend pre-soaking parsley seeds before planting them in the ground. Essential oils on their surface inhibit germination, so they take a long time to germinate. To remove the protective oil layer, soak the seeds in hot water and keep them in a warm place, wrapped in cheesecloth or cloth. Sprouted seeds are placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 7 days, then ready to plant in the ground.

Dill

Dill is best planted after the first light frosts in late October. It's best to choose moist, slightly acidic or neutral, loose soil rich in organic matter. High moisture levels promote faster growth. Plant at a depth of 2 cm, with rows spaced 20 cm apart. You'll need 25% more seed than in spring.

Parsnip

A very easy-to-grow plant, it thrives in loamy and sandy loam soils with good ventilation. For a good harvest, it's best to plant it in well-lit areas; otherwise, germination will be reduced by 40%. When preparing for sowing, the soil is dug up and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, ash, and compost are added. In the fall, dry seeds are placed in frozen soil to a depth of 3 cm, spaced 10 cm apart. It's best to leave a wider row spacing—35 cm. The most successful varieties are "Student" and "Guernsey."

Physalis

A neglected relative of tomatoes, physalis — a very beautiful and tasty fruit, also planted in October to early November. There are many varieties, both edible and purely ornamental. It is propagated by seed in the fall and from seedlings in the spring. These are fairly spreading bushes, so they should be spaced 50 to 70 cm apart, depending on the variety. Row spacing should be 70 cm or more, with a depth of 1.5 cm. Supplemental sowing is often not necessary, as the fallen seeds reproduce by self-seeding. The most successful vegetable varieties include "Gribovsky," "Krupnoplodny," "Likhtarik," "Zemlyanichny," and "Izyumny."

Leaf lettuce, cabbage lettuce and watercress lettuce

For owners of heated greenhouses, timing is not an issue; they can grow it year-round. The rest are planted in the ground at the end of October, or later if autumn is prolonged. The main thing is not to rush, so the seeds don't have time to germinate. If the soil is heavy and clayey, it is lightened by adding sand. The soil is dug, fertilized with potassium salt and superphosphate, and beds are created. Rows are spaced 20 cm apart, with no gaps between the seeds, but rather scattered in a continuous band to a depth of 1-2 cm. Some gardeners cover them with plastic film to prevent autumn rains from washing away the furrows. Seeds are scattered on frozen ground, covered with peat, humus, or dry soil. If the seedlings are dense, they are thinned. Successful mid-season varieties include "Emerald," "Berlin Yellow," and "Large Cabbage."

Tips for gardeners and horticulturists

It's crucial to choose the right planting time and not rush. If you sow crops too early, there's a high chance the seedlings won't even appear in the spring. It's important to allow the seeds to swell in moist soil but not have time to germinate. Most plants need to be planted in frozen ground, but it's best to prepare the beds in advance to avoid digging in frozen soil. Late summer and early fall are good times. The beds should be free of large clods and the soil should be loose. Cover the seeds with a layer of soil or peat, which should not be frozen, so keep the top layer in a warm place or use a commercially available seedbed mix.

Conclusions

Winter plantings are most beneficial in regions with stable snow cover. If there is no snow cover or it is often blown away by the wind, consider providing covering material in advance, such as spruce branches, plastic sheeting, or boards, or installing windbreaks.

In late autumn you can plant trees, shrubs, vegetables, greens, annuals and perennial flowersThe main thing is to choose varieties that can withstand frost or require stratification.

It's best to prepare the soil and beds in advance—dig, remove weeds, add fertilizer, and loosen the soil. It's also worth remembering to have mulch on hand when planting.