Caring for the indoor plant "Male Happiness" at home (+24 photos)

"Male Happiness" is the popular name for the anthurium. This name is no coincidence, as it is believed that this plant instills confidence, courage, and enhances virility in men. Furthermore, with proper care at home, the flower is sure to delight with vibrant blooms, making it a wonderful addition to any home.

Characteristics of the Male Happiness variety and species diversity

In 1876, French botanist Édouard André first discovered the anthurium and sent it to Europe for study. There, the flower was thoroughly studied and given the name "Anthurium andreanum." The plant is native to Colombia and northern Ecuador.

This flower is called "male happiness" for good reason, as it is believed to bring happiness and good fortune to men. Newlyweds are advised to grow anthuriums. The presence of this energetic plant positively influences the atmosphere in the home, creating a sense of well-being and peace.

In Russia, anthurium is considered an exclusively indoor plant, requiring special care. Its dark green leaves can grow up to 40 cm. The leaf shape depends on the species and can be arrow-shaped or heart-shaped. The flower itself resembles a spadix of pink, yellow, or white flowers. The plant's decorative appeal lies in the glossy spathe that surrounds the flower. The spathe's color ranges from deep cherry to white, and its shape resembles a heart.

Today, there are approximately 30 varieties of indoor anthurium and over 70 hybrids. All species are divided into three groups:

• green-leaved;
• variegated;
• beautifully flowering.

Most varieties can only thrive in greenhouses; growing them indoors is quite difficult. The following species are the most popular among gardeners:

1. Anthurium andreanum is a perennial plant with oval-lanceolate leaflets up to 30 cm long. This plant is native to South America. In the wild, it is found in forested areas of Colombia and Ecuador. The stems reach about 30 cm in height. The bract is quite large and heart-shaped. Its surface is often wrinkled or slightly vesicular. Small yellow flowers form on the spadix.

   

   

   

2. The crystal anthurium grows up to 25 cm in height. Large leaves, which can reach 40 cm in length and 20 cm in width, form densely on a thick stem. The foliage is bright green with light veins, reminiscent of the pattern on a wine glass. The blooms of this species are rather inconspicuous: a green-yellow inflorescence, reminiscent of an ear of corn, forms on a peduncle. The plant gained its popularity thanks to its decorative leaves.

   

   

   

3. Anthurium scherzeriana, unlike its relatives, is less demanding in terms of care. This has led to its widespread popularity not only among experienced gardeners but also among amateurs. The plant has a short stem (up to 30 cm) and leathery, dark green leaves. Yellow-orange inflorescences form on peduncles no longer than 8 cm, twisting into a spiral. The bracts are most often colored in red-orange tones.

   

   

Caring for a flower at home

To ensure the plant thrives, it needs to be provided with the most suitable growing conditions. Proper care promotes long-lasting flowering and is an excellent disease preventative.

Optimal temperature

In the wild, anthurium thrives in tropical climates and therefore prefers warmth. The room temperature in the pot should be between 20-25°C. In winter, this temperature should not drop below 18°C. It's important to protect the plant from drafts and open windows. However, it's important to remember that it needs fresh air.

Lighting

The best location for a pot is a spot with filtered sunlight. Direct sunlight can scorch the leaves, which is seriously stressful for the delicate plant. To protect the foliage from the scorching rays, place the anthurium 1 m from a window.

During the summer, the pot is placed on a western or eastern windowsill. When winter sets in, the pot is moved to the southern part of the house.

Watering and fertilizing

This tropical plant requires ample watering. During the summer, water twice a week. Afterward, drain any excess water from the tray, as stagnant water can encourage the growth of fungus or mold.

During the dormant period, watering is significantly reduced and all fertilizing is discontinued. Water the plant once a week, but continue misting as usual. Overly dry soil is detrimental to the plant, so it must be closely monitored. Water for irrigation should be soft.

Fertilizers play a vital role in the plant's healthy development. They are applied throughout the spring and summer, when the plant is actively growing. Experts recommend alternating mineral and organic fertilizers. Fertilizing should be done no more than twice a month, as excessive amounts of nutrients can be harmful.

Transplanting and propagating flowers at home

Anthuriums aren't fast-growing plants, so they shouldn't be repotted more than once every 1-2 years. A newly purchased plant shouldn't be repotted immediately. This procedure should be performed after an adaptation period of 7-10 days. For repotting, select slightly acidic soil, which should consist of fine moss, leaf mold, and turf.

It's best to repot the plant in the spring. The pot should be slightly larger than the previous one. A larger pot will negatively impact flowering, as the plant will begin to actively develop foliage. To repot, proceed as follows:

• The anthurium is watered generously, which makes it easier to remove from the old container;
• the flower is removed, the rhizome is examined and transferred to a new pot;

  

• If a flower is being replanted due to illness, the old soil must be removed from the roots, the damaged parts must be cut off, and the cut areas must be treated with activated carbon;
• the bottom of the new flowerpot is filled with drainage, and a lump of earth with roots is placed in the center;
• The resulting voids are filled with fresh substrate and the top layer of soil is renewed.

  

A transplanted flower receives all the necessary nutrients from fresh soil, so fertilizing is excluded for 2-3 months.

When replanting a mature plant, you can divide the root system into several parts, each with 1-2 shoots. This method of propagation is the easiest, as the plant already has roots. Caring for this plant after planting is exactly the same as for an adult.

The flower can be propagated using cuttings or leaves. The procedure is as follows:

• cut off the top of the shoot and place it in water for rooting;
• After the first roots appear (about 30 days), the cutting is planted in a pot with a suitable substrate.

The plant also reproduces by seeds, but this process is very labor-intensive, so it is very rarely used.

The seed propagation procedure consists of the following stages:

• the flower is pollinated;
• seeds are extracted from the ripe fruit;
• the planting material is washed and then left for some time in a weak solution of potassium permanganate;

  

• the seeds are sown in moist soil and covered with film;
• the mini-greenhouse is periodically ventilated, and the soil is sprayed from a spray bottle;
• When the sprouts get stronger, they are transplanted into separate containers.

Flower diseases and their control

Diseases can be caused by excessive or insufficient watering, low air humidity and improper application of fertilizers.

Why do leaves turn yellow?

Yellow leaves may indicate a temperature imbalance in the room. If the plant is in a cool place, it should be moved to a warmer room, while reducing the ambient humidity for a while. Yellowing leaves can also be caused by insufficient sunlight. This mostly occurs in spring and fall, when daylight hours decrease. Move the pot to a brighter windowsill or use a grow light.

Overfertilizing often causes diseases. Avoid it completely during the winter, and fertilize twice a month the rest of the year. Reduce the fertilizer dosage to half the recommended amount. If the foliage does begin to turn yellow, the plant will need to be repotted and the soil completely replaced.

Yellowing can be caused by chlorosis, a disease that occurs as a result of disruptions in the chlorophyll conversion process. A distinctive feature of this disease is the yellowing of the entire leaf, except for the veins, which remain their original color. This problem can be corrected by adding iron-containing fertilizers.

Other diseases with photos

Besides yellowing foliage, anthuriums can also be susceptible to other rather unpleasant diseases. The most common are fungal diseases:

• rust;
• powdery mildew;
• soil fungi;
• sooty fungi;
• gray mold.

Rust is characterized by the appearance of brown spots on leaves and stems. The plant can be treated with Bordeaux mixture, which is applied to the entire plant. Damaged parts must be destroyed.

If a whitish coating appears on a leaf, it's powdery mildew. It occurs due to sudden temperature changes and other care issues.

Root rot is characterized by the drying and death of foliage. It is considered the most dangerous of all non-infectious diseases.

You can get rid of fungal diseases and prevent them from spreading to other flowers in the following way:

• isolating the diseased anthurium from other plants;
• fungicide treatment;
• pruning and washing the roots;
• replanting with complete replacement of the substrate.

The flower can also be attacked by insects, including scale insects, aphids, thrips, spider mites, and mealybugs. These can be controlled by treating the affected flower with specialized insecticides. A folk remedy that works well is wiping the plant with a solution of laundry soap.

Frequently asked questions about growing

An anthurium will look elegant in any apartment. Those who love large, beautiful leaves will appreciate the Crystal Anthurium, while those who want a blooming touch of the tropics are advised to purchase the Scherzerian or Andreian Anthurium.