Those looking for an easy-to-care-for flower with vibrant blooms should consider fuchsia. This plant grows successfully both indoors and outdoors. Fuchsia blooms most of the year with large, gramophone-like flowers. The vibrant colors of the blooms attract everyone's attention and are sure to leave no one indifferent. Growing the plant is quite simple and will not cause difficulties even for a novice gardener.
How to choose the right seedlings in the store
Before purchasing a plant, it's crucial to check its condition. A healthy fuchsia has a well-foliated crown with matte green leaves. It's best to buy the plant during budding or dormancy. A blooming fuchsia won't last long; it may shed its blooms as it adjusts to its new location.
When purchasing seedlings, carefully examine the root system. Roots that are white, free of plaque and fungal growth are considered suitable for planting. If the root system has already grown, trim it back to 10 centimeters on the day of planting.
Landing
When grown outdoors, seedlings are transplanted during the warmer months. This can be late spring, when the soil has warmed up well enough to avoid frost. Before planting, the seedlings are soaked in a potassium permanganate solution for an hour and then planted in the soil mixture. The fuchsia quickly adapts to its new surroundings and begins to thrive.
To promote active root formation, immerse the flower roots in an aqueous solution of Kornevin for a couple of hours.
Fuchsia grows easily in porous, non-acidic soil. When planting, add a bucket of peat moss and compost per square meter of soil. Dig the soil thoroughly, make a hole in it, and insert the plant's roots. Cover them with soil and then water with warm water.
Care
To ensure vigorous blooms every spring and summer, fuchsias require proper care. This includes proper watering and maintaining humidity, as well as choosing the right location and temperature.
Location
Being a heat-loving plant, fuchsias prefer filtered sunlight. They can be placed in an east-facing window, but avoid direct sunlight. When grown outdoors, plant the fuchsia in a level, well-lit area, or in light shade from trees. Deep shade is not suitable. Insufficient sun will cause poor bud formation and diminished color intensity in the inflorescences and leaves.
Temperature
Flowering begins in mid-May and ends in autumn. During flowering, maintain a temperature between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius (68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit). This range is considered most favorable for flower formation. When the plant enters dormancy (mid-October, November), it can be moved to a cool room with a temperature of 20-22 degrees Celsius (68-72 degrees Fahrenheit).
Watering
Water the plant at least once a week while it's in bloom, then switch to less frequent watering, twice a month after flowering. In hot weather, the frequency can be increased to once every 3-4 days. Use cool, settled water for watering. Fuchsias are sensitive to soil moisture shortages and may begin to drop buds and leaves if not properly watered.
Air humidity and flower spraying
In summer, especially on hot days, the leaves and trunk can be sprayed with clean water from a spray bottle, but the moisture should not come into contact with the buds. Humidifiers are sometimes used to increase and maintain humidity at 60-80%. This creates favorable conditions for the fuchsia to bloom profusely.
Transfer
Fuchsias can live for 8-10 years, but older plants (5 years and older) bloom less and less frequently over time. To avoid this, it's recommended to repot the plant. A change of environment stimulates flowering and prolongs its lifespan. Repotting is done approximately every 4-5 years. For indoor plants, use a larger pot to allow sufficient space for root development.
Top dressing
Fertilizing is done when it's truly needed. This could be a sudden yellowing of even new leaves, sluggish shoot growth, or a prolonged absence of flowering. When planting young seedlings, begin applying fertilizer two weeks after planting. To promote rapid root development and foliar growth, use nitrogen fertilizers such as ammonium nitrate or urea. Dilute either product in 10 liters of water and water the plant. Repeat fertilizing after two weeks.
To initiate the budding phase of indoor and outdoor plants, feed them with potassium sulfate. Dissolve a teaspoon of the powder in 5 liters of water and water them at the roots. No more than 2-3 applications are required during the flowering period.
Pruning and pinching
Timely pruning of shoots is especially important for this flower. This procedure is performed when the fuchsia is dormant—before and after flowering. Side shoots are removed completely, and young branches are significantly shortened by half their length. The cut areas must be treated with a pink solution of potassium permanganate or hydrogen peroxide. The crown of the main stem is pinched. This creates a beautiful bush with a spreading crown. It can take up to 2-3 years to develop.
Pruning is beneficial for fuchsias, rejuvenating and strengthening the plant. Fuchsias tolerate the removal of excess shoots quite well, are not stressed, and their growth is noticeably accelerated after proper pinching.
Pruning is done with garden shears or a sharp knife.
Winter care
When grown outdoors for the winter in temperate climates, plants are either dug up or the soil around the planted flowers is mulched with straw or peat, and covered with agrofibre. Fuchsia is considered a flower that can withstand light frosts, but it does not tolerate sudden temperature changes.
After winter, when the snow melts and the temperature rises to 15 degrees Celsius, the cover is removed. If dry shoots, frozen over the winter, appear on the bushes, they are cut off. After some time, leaves will form on the fuchsia, and soon buds will appear.
Reproduction
The flower reproduces easily; young shoots take root well in new soil and bloom immediately. Propagation methods vary, including cuttings, leaves, and seeds.
Propagation by cuttings
The most common propagation method is actively used by gardeners to create large flower beds. In the fall, after flowering, a mature 2-3-year-old bush is dug out of the ground. The rhizome is cleared of soil and soaked in water for a couple of hours. New young shoots with roots are separated from the mother bush. The shoot is placed in water for several days until it takes root, and then repotted. You can initially grow the plant in a peat pellet, and then, once it has established itself, transplant it into a potting mix.
Autumn harvesting of cuttings
This method is used to preserve seedlings during the winter. Then, after wintering, the plants are transplanted into open ground. A 15-20 cm long cutting is separated from the main plant and planted directly into fertile soil. The seedling is stored in a basement or cellar. With the arrival of spring, the cutting is removed and placed in water to develop roots. In 2-3 weeks, it will be ready for planting outdoors.
Propagation by leaves
Leaf rooting takes a short time, allowing you to quickly grow a fully grown plant. Cut a young, healthy leaf from the flower and place it in a container of water. After a few weeks, the leaf will sprout roots. Once they reach 5 centimeters in length, the leaf can be transplanted into a pot of soil and grown as a separate plant.
Propagation by seeds
This method is quite rare, as the seed germination rate is low. Planting material is sold in large flower shops and garden supply stores. Its main advantage is its low cost. Seed germination takes several years. The seeds are pre-soaked in a growth stimulator for a couple of hours. The soaked seeds are rinsed under water and planted in soil containing sand and peat. Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap and wait for the seeds to germinate. After 10-14 days, young plants will emerge from the soil, and within two weeks they will be ready for transplanting. Seedlings can be planted outdoors when they reach 10-15 centimeters in height.
Diseases
Rot is one of the most common diseases. It occurs due to improper watering and excess moisture in the soil. Excessive leaf moisture, especially in the evening, triggers the disease. As a result, a white coating appears on the leaves, which eventually begin to wilt. Gradually, the rot affects the entire bush and the soil.
To prevent infection, the soil must be heated to a high temperature (80-90 degrees Celsius) and treated with a 2% copper sulfate solution before planting. After planting, in mid- to late spring, carry out preventative treatments: use Bordeaux mixture to water the soil and irrigate the shoots. Repeat the treatment after two weeks.
If infection does occur, immediately cut off the infected shoots or leaves from the healthy part. Dig the plant out of the ground, and assess the condition of the roots. If they have a white coating, cut off the diseased roots, soak them in a diluted solution of Fitosporin for an hour, and replant them in healthy, pre-treated soil.
Pests and how to deal with them
Pests are rare when grown indoors. Black flies can be a problem due to excess moisture. An infusion of onion peels is considered a reliable remedy for gnats. The peels of 3-4 onions are steeped in 2 liters of water for 3 days. Then, strain the mixture and spray it on the plant. The flies cannot stand the onion smell and will disappear.
If fuchsias are grown in a garden, the risk of infestation increases significantly. The flower can become a target for spiders, caterpillars, nematodes, whiteflies, and mites. Special insecticides are used to control these insects. They are lethal to the pests. The insecticide is diluted in a prescribed ratio, as indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
When using insecticides, wear gloves. The substance may contain poisons and cause an allergic reaction if it comes into contact with skin or mucous membranes.
A popular insect repellent is a mixture of laundry soap and boric acid. Mix 40-50 grams of grated soap and a tablespoon of boric acid per bucket of water. Apply the mixture to the leaves and stems in the morning. Repeat the treatment after two weeks. The optimal time for treatment is mid- to late spring.
Fuchsia is perfect for beautifying a garden or dacha. It also looks great on a windowsill. Its vibrant appearance and abundant blooms will delight you year after year, and its care requires little time or effort.
Fuchsia: Propagation, Care, and Growing at Home in Winter