Indoor gerbera - home care, growing from seeds, diseases and pests

The gerbera is a herbaceous plant belonging to the Asteraceae family. It originated in the tropics and found its way into indoor collections. A beautiful legend surrounds the origin of this flower. It tells of a girl whose beauty was admired not only by humans but also by animals and birds. An envious witch tried to spoil the girl's appearance, but the gods got ahead of her: they transformed the beauty into a gerbera, thereby preserving her beauty.

Contrary to popular belief that the plant is annual, the life and beauty of the flower can be extended for up to four years. To achieve this, it's essential to follow proper care instructions and expert recommendations. Caring for indoor gerberas requires a dormant period, so consider in advance how to lower the temperature indoors and provide additional lighting if necessary.

Characteristics of the species and indoor varieties of gerbera

The indoor variety differs from the garden gerbera in height and leaf size. The indoor flower reaches 30 cm in height and is considered a dwarf variety. The leaves of indoor gerberas are an order of magnitude smaller than those of their garden cousins. However, their flowers are similar—up to 15 cm in diameter. This makes the indoor varieties much more striking than their garden counterparts.

The leaves are pinnately dissected, gathered in a basal rosette. The inflorescence is thick and leafless. Depending on the variety, the flowers can be single or double, with wide or narrow, pointed or round petals. Flower color varies, ranging from single to two-toned.

Photos of gerberas are often found in wedding salon catalogs. These flowers are particularly popular in this industry. Due to their ability to remain fresh for a long time, they are widely used in bridal bouquets and the entire celebration.

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There are several classifications of gerberas. One of the most popular is the petal color classification. According to this classification, the following types of gerberas are distinguished:

1. Pink and purple.
2. Orange.
3. Reds.
4. White and cream.

The most common representatives of pink and purple hybrids are the following varieties:

1. Sweet Surprise.
2. Jasmina.
3. Pam.

Among the orange varieties, the following hybrids are very popular:

1. Sweet Caroline.
2. Orangina.
3. Sweet Honey.

The most popular red gerberas are considered to be representatives of the following varieties:

1. Sweet Glow.
2. Sophie.
3. Rachel.

Among the white and cream hybrids, the following varieties should be highlighted:

1. Sylvana.
2. Valerie.
3. Catherine.

All indoor hybrids were bred from the Gerbera jamesonii. Some flower shops sell bright blue or navy blue Gerberas. These colors don't exist in nature. In fact, these are flowers with colored petals.

Caring for a potted gerbera at home

Growing gerberas in a pot doesn't require any special experience or equipment; the growing conditions are typical for heat-loving plants. The only difficulty is maintaining two care schedules: the active growth period and the dormant period.

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Lighting

Gerberas love lots of light and tolerate even a little direct sunlight. They benefit from basking in the morning and afternoon sun.

Gerberas are best placed on a windowsill. Only there will they receive the required amount of light. A west- or east-facing window is ideal. A south-facing window will require hiding the flower under a curtain at midday. A north-facing windowsill is not suitable for growing gerberas due to the lack of light; this location will require additional artificial lighting.

Temperature and humidity

During the active growth period, gerberas thrive in temperatures between 18°C ​​and 20°C. Creating these conditions is quite challenging, especially during hot weather. The plant can be placed in an air-conditioned room, but ensure that the cold air flow isn't directed at the flowerpot.

The plant grew in high-humidity conditions, so it needed to be misted regularly. However, some gardeners believe this procedure negatively impacts the leaves.

To increase air humidity without damaging the flower's decorative qualities, follow these spraying recommendations:

• use a fine spray;
• spray with soft water at room temperature;
• Spray water not so much on the leaves, but on the air around the flower.

Spraying is carried out only during the growing season.

Watering and fertilizing

There's an unspoken rule in gardening that says it's better to let gerberas dry out than to overwater them. Excess moisture can cause rot. Therefore, during the growing season, water every 3-4 days.

Water the plant through a tray. After a while, drain any unused water. The water should be soft and the temperature should match the room temperature where the plant is kept. Tap water should be filtered and allowed to settle for at least 24 hours.

Fertilize the plant every two weeks from March to August. By autumn, reduce the frequency to once a month. Use a complex mineral fertilizer for flowering houseplants. Apply the fertilizer during watering. Liquid forms are preferable. Gerberas do not tolerate manure, so it's best to avoid organic fertilizers.

Care during the flowering period

Most indoor gerberas bloom in the fall, less commonly in the spring, and some varieties can bloom twice a year. Under favorable conditions, the blooming period can last up to six weeks. Once buds begin to form, care for the gerbera changes slightly. Watering should be increased, moistening the soil every two days.

During flowering, it's important to strictly adhere to all plant care recommendations. During this period, the flower should not be disturbed by repotting, pruning, or moving it to a new location. To preserve the buds, it's important to monitor the room temperature: the difference between day and night temperatures should not exceed 5 degrees.

Pruning, pinching and preparing for winter

After flowering, sanitary pruning is performed. This involves removing all faded blooms. Dry leaves are trimmed as needed. Gerberas don't require shaping; they grow as a neat, compact bush. Some gardeners stimulate the formation of new buds by pinching them off. To do this, they trim off excess leaves from the plant.

From mid-autumn onward, the plant enters a dormant period that continues throughout the winter. Care during this period differs from regular care in the following ways:

• reduce watering to once a week;
• cancellation of supplementary feeding;
• cancellation of spraying;
• temperature regime 12-14 ℃;
• illumination with phytolamps as needed.

Diseases and pests of indoor gerberas

Indoor gerberas are very susceptible to infectious diseases and pests. Often, the plant's illness is caused by mistakes made during care.

Mistakes in care

Gerberas can weaken and become ill due to improper care. The most common mistakes are described in the table. Promptly addressing the causes will restore the plant to its normal condition.

Infectious diseases

Most often, the flower is affected by the following diseases:

1. Powdery mildew. It manifests as a white, powdery coating on the leaves. Over time, the coating thickens and changes color from white to brown.
2. Gray mold. Symptoms include wet, dark spots on leaves and stems. Over time, these spots become covered with a gray, fluffy coating. A strong, rotten odor emanates from the pot.
3. Late blight. It attacks both the roots and above-ground parts of the plant. The plant easily "jumps" out of the pot, and small brown spots appear on the leaves and stems, gradually increasing in size and turning purple. The affected parts become deformed and rot.

   

4. Fusarium wilt. It manifests itself as stem and leaf wilting. A black ring may be visible on the cut surface. A pinkish moldy coating appears on the roots.

All of the above diseases are very dangerous for houseplants. In the early stages, the plant should be cleared of diseased parts, treated with a fungicide, and repotted in new soil. The pot should be sterilized.

Pests

Gerbera can fall victim to the following pests:

1. Scale insects. In the early stages, the infestation can be identified by brown, waxy spots on the underside of the leaf. Later, unsightly beige-brown spots appear across the entire surface of the leaves and stems, gradually increasing in size. Reddish streaks appear around the spots.

   

2. Aphids. An infestation with this pest can be identified by a sticky coating on the leaves. Over time, all above-ground parts of the plant become covered with small, moving beige dots—aphids. Affected flower parts become deformed and dry out.
3. Spider mites. This pest is impossible to spot with the naked eye. They can be identified by the fine threads of their webbing and yellowish spots on affected leaves.
4. Whitefly. These tiny white flies stand out clearly against green leaves. If left untreated, the leaves will become translucent and soon die.

Harmful insects should be controlled using special preparations: insecticides will destroy scale insects, aphids, and whiteflies, while acaricides are effective against spider mites.

Methods of flower propagation

At home, gerberas can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, or division. In practice, the latter two methods are most commonly used, as seed propagation is more complex and does not guarantee the preservation of varietal characteristics.

Growing gerberas from seeds at home

The procedure for growing a flower from seeds involves the following steps:

1. The seeds are sown in a moist sand-peat mixture.
2. Sprinkle a little sand on top.
3. The container is covered with glass and placed in a warm, dark place.
4. When seedlings appear after 10 days, the container is moved to a warm place with bright, diffused light.

   

5. As soon as the sprouts produce two true leaves, they are carefully pricked out into separate containers. Glass is no longer required.
6. The seeds are sprayed and aired daily. When the transplanted seedlings have developed four leaves, they are transplanted like adult plants.

Cuttings

Propagation of flowers by cuttings occurs as follows:

1. A stem about 10 cm long is cut diagonally from the mother bush. The cutting should have at least 2 leaves.
2. The cutting is placed in wet sand (perlite, vermiculite) and covered with a transparent cap.

For successful rooting, the room temperature should be around 25°C (77°F). High humidity should also be maintained. Bottom heat is recommended for the cutting. Once the cutting has rooted, it can be repotted like an adult plant.

Dividing the bush

The easiest way to propagate a plant is by dividing the bush. To do this, use garden pruning shears to cut off a section with two or three growing points from the mother bush. The pruning shears should be disinfected. The cut areas must be treated with an antiseptic. Crushed activated charcoal or charcoal are suitable for this purpose.

Only mature plants are suitable for division. At least two growth buds must remain on the mother plant. The separated parts are rooted in regular gerbera soil. They require no further growing or special care. Gerberas obtained by division bloom within a year.

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Transfer

The optimal time for transplantation is considered to be the period before and after stagnation. The transplantation procedure involves the following steps:

1. A drainage layer of expanded clay or foam is placed at the bottom of the flower pot.
2. Fill the pot one-third full with soil consisting of turf soil (1/4), coarse sand (1/4) and peat (1/2).
3. The flower is placed on the soil together with the old soil lump.
4. The remaining voids in the pot are filled with fresh remaining substrate.
5. The root collar is left on the soil surface at approximately 3-4 cm.

The lifespan of this plant is 3-4 years. During this time, it is repotted a maximum of twice: once after purchase and a year after the first repotting. After repotting, it is advisable to place the plant in partial shade for 3-5 days. The first feeding should be administered no earlier than 3 weeks after repotting.

Frequently asked questions about growing

The indoor gerbera is a beautiful, showy flower. Breeders have developed many hybrids of this plant. It's easy to grow, but improper care can lead to common houseplant diseases.