How to get rid of wireworms in the garden

Wireworms are the larvae of the click beetle. They live in the soil for about five years, feeding on the roots and fruits of various garden crops, especially potatoes. How can you get rid of this annoying insect for good? We'll tell you right now.

Description of wireworm and how it causes harm

Many people mistake this pest for a common worm, and novice gardeners may not pay much attention to it. If the insect population is not controlled, within two or three years of the first appearance, the wireworm will conquer large areas, making it extremely difficult to get rid of.

Wireworms are easily distinguished from other insects by their hard, difficult-to-crush bodies. The larvae's coloration varies, initially light yellow, and as they mature, it becomes dark brown. Their body, including three pairs of legs, reaches 20–50 mm in length and is divided into several small segments. In mild climates, the insect overwinters at depths of up to 15 cm, and in colder climates, at depths of up to 60 cm. The pest survives even the most severe frosts.

As soon as warm spring weather sets in, the female click beetle emerges from the ground. A few days later, she lays eggs (up to 150) in depressions in the soil. Adults live in the soil, and their development takes about five years. The second and third years of larval development are the most dangerous for the garden. An adult click beetle can reach a body length of up to 2 cm, with its head occupying one-third of the body and its coloration being black.

Why is wireworm dangerous?

Young and adult larvae feed on seeds and plant roots, and burrow smooth passages into root crops. Potatoes lose their marketable appearance and shelf life, develop rot, and carrots become completely tasteless. The insect penetrates the underground parts of stems, damages the bases of branches, and destroys young, still-fragile seedlings.

Wireworms are very voracious, sometimes even attacking young roots of fruit trees and ornamental plants. Their larvae carry bacteria and fungal infections. They are most active in dry weather, although they prefer damper habitats. During periods of prolonged rainfall, the amount of damage is significantly reduced. In normal weather, wireworms can destroy up to 70% of crops in a single season.

How to control pests in the garden and greenhouse

The click beetle can lay eggs in any environment, whether open ground or a greenhouse. We'll describe chemical and biological control methods for this dangerous insect, explore folk remedies, and outline preventative measures.

Preparations against wireworms

Chemicals should be used strictly according to the instructions, and extreme caution should be exercised when using them in greenhouses. Increasing the dosage or mixing different substances is strictly prohibited. When choosing insecticides, always consult with the seller. Products can have different concentrations and potencies, and not only the wireworm population but also the plant's developmental stage are important.

Popular remedies:

• Thunder-2;
• Prestige;
• Bazudin;
• Provotox;
• Zemlin;
• Metarizin;
• Diazinon.

Any treatments can be carried out no later than 20–25 days before harvesting vegetables. After harvesting, the soil is treated with the same preparations, also following the instructions.

Folk methods of struggle

Folk remedies for personal protection use common ingredients, are inexpensive, and won't harm your health. Most of the advice is aimed at prevention. Let's look at a few proven options:

• Onion peels - the peels are placed in the hole, and potatoes can be soaked in a strong broth before planting;
• Soil disinfection: 2 g of manganese per bucket of water or weak solutions of ammonia and ammonium nitrate. The soil is watered a few days before planting;
• Mustard powder – a small amount of the product is added to the holes during planting;
• Mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen ones, are quite unpleasant for wireworms; a small amount of minerals is scattered over the surface of the soil;
• Conifers - branches of young pine trees are placed in planting holes;
• Herbal infusions: For a bucket of water, use 200 g of dandelion leaves, 500 g of nettle, 100 g of celandine, and 200 g of coltsfoot. Chop the herbs, steep them in water, and let them steep for 3-4 days. Strain the mixture, dilute it with water (1:1), and water the beds 2 or 3 times, 7 days apart. Store the infusion in a cool place. Other recipes also include 500 g of nettle or 200 g of dandelions per bucket of water, steep for 12 hours, and no need to dilute these infusions. Another option is 100 g of celandine per 10 liters of water, steep for 3 days.

Traps and baits:

• Several lettuce (leaf) or corn plants are planted between the rows. Gradually, the plants are dug up along with the pest nests and destroyed;
• Small holes are dug near the beds with the main crops and potatoes or carrot pieces are placed in them, covered with soil. The bait is checked periodically and the vegetables are replaced;
• To catch beetles, bury jars of potato leaves around the perimeter of the garden; females will lay eggs in them. Ten traps are sufficient per 100 square meters, and they are changed every 3 days.
• After harvesting, the tops are left in the beds; rotting grass attracts wireworms. After a week, the plant debris is removed along with the pests;
• Before planting vegetables, sow barley or wheat. Two weeks before planting the main crops, the grains are pulled out and some of the larvae are removed.

Wireworms prefer acidic soil; acidity can be neutralized with lime, chalk, ash, and eggshells; these can be scattered over the surface of the soil and added to the holes.

Use of biopreparations

The biological product "Zashchita" contains a predatory nematode. The roundworm enters the wireworm with its food and destroys it from the inside. It's not cheap, but it's incredibly effective and poses no health risks. Predatory nematodes establish themselves in the garden and overwinter well. After a few applications, you can forget about the pest forever.

Pest prevention

By following proper agricultural practices and crop rotation, gardeners rarely encounter any pests. Timely soil loosening, as well as weeding and removing weeds, are the foundations of a clean garden. Wireworm larvae often live in the roots of wheatgrass and barnyard grass, and these are removed from garden beds first. Sometimes even mulch can cause damage, but it's best to remove it, otherwise the larvae migrate from dry areas to damp grass.

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When choosing green manure, consider lupine, mustard, phacelia, and alfalfa, as these plants create an unfavorable soil environment for wireworms. Crop rotation involves alternating vegetables with legumes, which should also be planted between rows, as they are extremely unfavorable for wireworms.

Avoid using chemicals when only a small number of pests appear; in these cases, they can be easily dealt with using other methods. For large-scale plant infestations, be patient and use a combination of control methods. Take the time to write down the tips you find most effective and create an action plan. If you do everything correctly and promptly, you can put wireworms to rest forever.