Mulching cucumbers in a greenhouse or open field is an effective way to increase yields and protect crops from weeds and drought. This process helps prevent soil erosion and improves soil structure and quality. The term "mulching" itself means covering the soil to improve its properties. Both natural and artificial materials are used as coverings. Organic materials include sawdust, wood chips, plant residues, hay, and grass. Natural mulch requires constant renewal—it attracts insects, which gradually eat away the protective layer. However, as it decomposes, it turns into soil fertilizer. Alternatives include gravel, pebbles, polyethylene, and other materials designed for covering the soil.
Benefits of mulching
Mulching cucumbers in open ground helps retain moisture and protects them from temperature fluctuations. Mulching is not necessary for greenhouse cucumbers, but it has its advantages. For example, regular weeding is unnecessary, as weeds are much less likely to overgrow. Water evaporates more slowly, and maintaining the correct moisture balance is much easier in a closed environment. Mulching in a greenhouse helps prevent the soil from drying out and forming a crust.
Mulching provides:
- protection from temperature changes and extreme climatic conditions: sudden cold snaps or prolonged drought;
- Improving the quality and quantity of fruits: mulching helps to significantly increase yields;
- reducing the amount of watering: the top layer retains moisture in the soil, so cucumbers can be left without care for several days;
- protection from sun and drought;
- getting rid of weeds;
- saturating the soil with air, the appearance of beneficial microorganisms: this reduces the need for hilling;
- preservation of nutrients supplied with fertilizers;
- protection of the root system, which is located fairly close to the top layer of soil.
Mulched cucumbers don't require hilling. The plants receive more nutrients, which aren't washed out of the treated soil. The fruit is much less susceptible to rot and disease, and their flavor improves after mulching.
You may be interested in:Main stages
Following the correct sequence allows you to get the most out of the process without harming your cucumbers. Early spring, when the soil is warm but still moist, is a good time to perform the procedure. The planting method helps you understand the best way to mulch cucumbers in a greenhouse or open ground. There are three options:
- continuously, when all crops are covered with mulch evenly;
- in rows, when individual rows of plantings are covered;
- nests when mulch is laid out in a circle around the plant.
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The first step is to clear the soil: remove weeds and any old mulch left over from the previous season. After that, leave the area for a while to dry.
The second step is loosening the soil. Dig the top layer to a depth of 10-12 centimeters. You can immediately choose the type of mulch (organic or non-organic), as well as the covering method and planting type.
The third step is laying down a layer of mulch. A layer up to five centimeters thick should be spread evenly over the beds, leaving the area around the seedlings clear. You can mulch directly onto the planted areas, leaving the areas between them undisturbed. However, an even coating across the entire bed is much more effective.
The fourth stage is working with the crop. The mulch layer doesn't require regular watering; it only needs to be moistened once to initiate the composting process. After that, care for the plants continues as usual. Periodically, lift the layer to detect pests early.
After the season, the organic mulch layer turns into humus. It's best to destroy any remaining compost, as it may harbor dormant viruses and pathogens. If disease symptoms are noticed, the mulch layer and the topsoil should be removed. After disinfection, they can be reapplied.
Selection of raw materials
If your goal is to improve fertility, it's best to choose organic mulch so that it interacts with the cucumbers when applied to the greenhouse or soil. Inorganic coverings help retain moisture and nutrients, which also indirectly contributes to increased yields, albeit less effectively. However, artificial materials can be reused multiple times and only need to be replaced throughout the season.
Manure and humus
The most natural and nutritious materials not only mulch the soil but also enrich it with nutrients. Manure increases nitrogen concentration, which is essential during the early stages of growth. It is most often used in combination with hay, diluted by about half. Manure is suitable for cold regions with frequent precipitation.
Compost is considered the best environment for beneficial bacteria to thrive. A mulch layer decomposes faster, turning into humus and warming the soil. It's ideal for cold days and prolonged rains. After the season, it can be left in the garden beds as a fertilizer. Humus has similar properties. It also doesn't need to be removed from the garden in the fall.
Straw
This type of mulch maintains optimal temperatures and prevents slugs from developing in the garden. The straw should be applied in a fairly dense layer, up to 10 centimeters thick. Freshly chopped straw is best, as it doesn't slow down the growth of the hay. For greater benefits, add 100 grams of superphosphate and urea, as well as 60 grams of potassium salt, to every 5 kilograms of hay.
You may be interested in:Grass and leaves
Many people wonder whether it's possible to mulch cucumbers with freshly cut grass instead of hay. Freshly cut grass isn't suitable: after harvesting, let it sit in the sun for a while, preferably several days. This is essential to get rid of pests. Clover or nettle are the best choices, as they contain the highest levels of nutrients. The layer should be about 7 centimeters thick.
Fallen leaves are also suitable for mulching, especially in hot weather. They help regulate temperature, moisten, and preserve the soil. It's best not to use this type of mulch during rainy weather, as it can cause rot and fungal growth.
Peat
This fertilizer improves soil structure, increases moisture concentration, disinfects the soil, and enriches it with nutrients. This mulch is applied in a layer approximately 5 centimeters thick and left on the ground after the end of the growing season. In winter, peat prepares the soil, retaining heat and nutrients.
Sawdust
It's best not to use fresh material for mulch, as it can draw nitrogen from the soil, leading to loss of green color and stunted growth. Slightly compacted and rotted sawdust is suitable. It's also best to supplement it with nitrogen-containing solutions to avoid deficiency. Sawdust is fertilized with urea: 400 grams per 6-8 buckets of sawdust. To do this, spread the sawdust on plastic, sprinkle it with the urea, add water, and then leave it for two weeks. The resulting mulch is applied in a thin layer of 2-4 centimeters. Sawdust is suitable for hot seasons when soil moisture needs to be increased. To prevent the mulch from decomposing as quickly, use coarser sawdust.
Film
It can be white or black, solid or perforated. This inorganic mulch material is best suited for northern regions. The film creates the strongest greenhouse effect, warming the soil and accelerating plant growth. Additionally, polyethylene prevents weed growth. After the first shoots emerge, holes should be cut in the dense fabric to allow fresh air to enter. Different types of film have their own advantages:
- black - attracts heat while blocking ultraviolet light, preventing the appearance of weeds;
- white – reflects the sun’s rays, preventing plants from overheating and getting burned;
- two-color - for regions with changeable climates, it combines the advantages of both types;
- transparent – helps create a greenhouse effect while allowing light to pass through.
Black film is only suitable for cold regions with little sun. Since the dark color absorbs sunlight better, plants can overheat or even get burned. To prevent this, cover the beds with an additional layer of hay.
Paper and cardboard
An unusual but effective material for retaining moisture and slowing weed growth. Packaging cardboard is ideal for this purpose: it's thicker and unpainted. The sheets should be moistened, holes punched in them, and then used to cover the crops. To prevent the cardboard from shifting across the field, it is secured with heavy objects such as stones or pieces of metal.
Bulk materials
Crushed rock, gravel, or expanded clay can be used for mulching. This layer can be reused multiple times and doesn't need to be replaced. It's important to provide protection for plants so that their leaves don't come into contact with the mulch layer. Bulk materials are suitable for any region: they don't affect the soil, lay flat, and provide a tight cover for crops.
Mistakes when mulching
If mulching is done incorrectly, it can harm plants and future harvests. When choosing mulching materials and methods, consider the climate, soil type, and current weather conditions. Some types of materials are suitable for prolonged rainfall and cold climates, while others are more suitable for hot and dry weather. There are several common mistakes that can harm crops:
- Contact between the mulch layer and the plant can lead to disease, infestation, and the transmission of infections. It's important to leave adequate space around the seedling.
- Fresh raw materials are not suitable for mulching; they rot, attract pests, and encourage the appearance of slugs.
- Film and other inorganic materials are not suitable for hot, sunny regions. Using such mulch can cause burns and overheating.
- It is better to lay mulch on warmed soil, so do not do this too early if the soil has not had time to warm up properly.
- Wood shavings can swell too much, restricting air flow to the roots. It's best not to use them in rainy weather.
Be sure to apply a layer of mulch to loose, weed-free soil. Organic materials decompose quickly, so this layer should be renewed regularly, at least twice a season. At the first sign of disease, remove the top layer immediately to prevent the infection from spreading.
You may be interested in:Reviews
Anton, 42
I prefer to mulch my cucumbers with natural materials: it's more environmentally friendly and helps increase yields. I most often use grass clippings, spreading them thickly, leaving a little space around the cucumbers. I mow them beforehand and let them rest for a bit. I recently saw a video of people mulching their beds with cardboard; I'm planning to try that this season.
Violetta, 54
In my opinion, the best mulch for cucumbers is gravel. I prefer to spread it on the beds early in the season, when the soil has warmed up sufficiently. This material is reusable, easy to move, and looks beautiful, giving the garden a neat appearance. It's important that the mulch layer doesn't cover the cucumbers themselves, as this can lead to blacklegs. It should be spread fairly firmly, but lifted occasionally to assess the soil condition.
Sergey, 57
Mulching cucumbers is a beneficial process that reduces the need for care. It helps retain moisture and keep the soil warm, so you can visit your dacha once a week without worrying about your crops. I use film: clear or black, depending on the weather. The key is to poke holes in it so the plants can breathe.
Mulching is used to protect against excess moisture or drought, improve soil fertility, and control weeds and pests. Crops can be covered with both inorganic materials—film, gravel, cardboard—and organic matter. There's a much wider selection of natural materials, including hay, grass, leaf mold, sawdust, and peat. Natural mulch is converted into humus, improving the soil. Inorganic materials, however, can be reused multiple times. If you follow basic rules and recommendations, you can significantly improve the condition of your garden beds with mulching.

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