How to prune cucumbers in a greenhouse: diagram and instructions for beginners

Pinching out side shoots from cucumbers is a necessary procedure only if the main shoots are well developed and the cucumber bushes are producing a poor harvest. Side shoots are shoots that grow and develop from the leaf axils, and the plant expends nutrients on their growth. Removing side shoots must be done correctly and promptly to avoid damaging the plant or accidentally pinching the main stem.

Do cucumbers need to be side-sonned?

Gardeners claim that pinching doesn't affect yield. The number of ovaries depends on soil fertility, the variety chosen, and the climate where the vegetables are grown. Uncontrolled growth of greenery results in the formation of male shoots or barren flowers, which don't bear fruit and waste nutrients. Removing shoots is especially important in greenhouses, as space is limited, and overgrowth will shade other plants. Harvesting cucumbers will be difficult, and the cramped conditions will limit their ability to work in the greenhouse.

Branches emerge from the leaf axils, becoming additional stems. The season won't produce many fruits; the plant will divert resources to the shoots. Female stems appear on the lateral parts of the plants. To increase yield and improve the quality of cucumbers, side shoots on the bushes are pruned, leaving 2-3 female shoots.

Advantages of pinching out side shoots:

• increasing yield due to the development of female shoots;
• uniform distribution of light for all parts of the plant;
• good air exchange;
• no thickening of plantings;
• enough nutrition and moisture for each bush;
• cucumbers don't have a bitter taste:
• The fruits are high quality and tasty.

When to prune cucumber bushes in a greenhouse

The first time to remove side shoots from cucumbers is when the plant has 6-7 leaves. The side shoots are still small at this time; don't use scissors; pinching them off with your fingers (or nails) is sufficient. Pinch off all shoots above the fifth leaf, leaving 1-2 strong stems. Side shoots are most often removed when the stem length exceeds 6-7 cm. During growth, monitor for fruit set and trim back any side shoots. After the first pinching, begin staking the cucumber plants.

The procedure is performed a second time after the 9th or 10th leaf has grown. For tall cucumbers, pinch off the top. This technique promotes the development of lateral stems and increases the number of fruits.

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Pinching out cucumbers in open ground

For pollinated cucumber varieties grown in open beds, use an inverted Christmas tree pattern, similar to that used in greenhouses, gradually increasing the plant load. Pollinated varieties cannot be grown on a single stem. Most varieties produce only male flowers on the main stem, with female flowers on side shoots. Removing side shoots can result in no harvest. When purchasing seeds, the instructions on the label should indicate which variety is pollinated and which is not.

According to the classical scheme of insect-pollinated varieties and hybrids

For insect-pollinated cucumbers, a universal method for removing shoots is used. Pinching is done like an inverted Christmas tree. Cucumber plants are pruned from top to bottom, with the higher the plants are cut, the more side stems and ovaries are left.

Step-sonning cucumbers in open ground should be done in several stages:

1. On the lower part of the trunk, 3-5 nodes are pruned, flowers and ovaries are removed, but the leaves are left intact. Pruning is done before the flowers open. The plant should be at least 50 cm tall.
2. Above, during the next 3-4 nodes, the lateral shoots are left; they were pinched at the beginning of development above the first leaf.
3. Shoots are left along the trunk, located in the axils of the next three leaves. At this point, the shoot above the second leaf is pinched off.
4. On the next part of the stem, the stepsons of the cucumbers are removed at 3 nodes and the top is torn off.

The main trunk is draped over a trellis, allowing it to hang down and continue growing. The central vine is also wrapped around a horizontally stretched rope.

Pinching scheme with female flowering type on the main stem

If female flowers form on the central stem, the bush is pinched off in a specific order. You'll need supports and fabric to support the long stem. You can use a tool, but pinching by hand is preferable.

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How to properly pinch out cucumbers:

• they put up supports and attach bushes to them;
• the lower 6-8 nodes are blinded, stepsons and ovaries are torn off;
• at the next 2 nodes, pinch off the shoots, but leave one ovary;
• at the next 8 nodes, you need to remove lateral shoots of 1 leaf;
• subsequent pinching of 4-5 nodes is carried out after 2 leaves;
• in the 23-26 axils, pinch the lateral shoots;
• the main stem is secured near the support, the top is removed above the 25-26 leaf axil;
• shoots of the following orders must be removed with 1-2 leaves.

Schemes of parthenocarpic varieties and hybrids

Parthenocarpic hybrids are formed into a single stem, as all flowers are female. The foliage and ovaries are left on the stem, and the shoots are removed. This method is used on an industrial scale; the bushes grow tall and don't require much space.

The cluster ovaries are pinched according to the following principle:

• the first 4 nodes are completely blinding;
• subsequent ones up to and including 17 pinch the shoots, without touching the ovaries;
• the next shoots in 3 axils should be removed after 2 leaves;
• The main trunk is secured around a support, led to another bush, and the top of the stem is pinched.

Tips for further care

To reduce stress on plants after removing side shoots, fertilize the bushes. Add organic or mineral supplements along with watering. The bushes recover within a week. Cucumber seedlings have very sensitive root systems, so watering with cold water can have negative consequences. Place containers of water in the garden or greenhouse; the liquid warms up during the day, and then water the bushes with it in the morning.

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Some tips for caring for cucumbers:

1. It's best not to use pruning shears to remove shoots. Young shoots can easily be broken off by hand with your fingernails. If the shoot has grown longer than 40-50 cm, sharp scissors will be needed.
2. When pinching out side shoots, remove yellow and dry leaves immediately. These shade the bushes and may also be infected or fungal. In this case, treat the affected plant with a fungicide or alcohol solution.
3. If you're artificially tying the vines, the tendrils can be removed. They won't be needed for support. This will save light and resources for the bushes.
4. When pinching shoots, be careful not to damage the leaf axils. Pull the leaf back, remove the side shoot, and gently pinch off the shoot. If the shoot is injured, the plant will spend its energy on recovery rather than fruit production.
5. Cotton is an excellent material for tying. Natural fabric doesn't cut into the stems. Cut strips 2-3 cm long. If you tie the stem too tightly, it will eventually wilt. Tie the stem loosely so the fabric doesn't constrict it.

Cucumbers that don't require pinching

If you don't have time to remove side shoots, you can plant cucumber varieties that produce a good harvest without pinching. These plants form a lush bush without climbing shoots. Some varieties have short side shoots. Many parthenocarpic hybrids don't require side shoot removal. These are female flowers, so pinching can reduce yield.

F1 hybrids that do not require pinching:

1. "Bouquet" is a parthenocarpic hybrid with excellent cucumber flavor. It is early maturing and disease-resistant. It produces few lateral shoots. The leaf axils contain up to six ovaries.
2. 'Alphabet' is a female variety with a short ripening period. The bushes are weakly branched, with clustered ovaries. Up to five fruits form per node. The cucumbers are first harvested from the main stem, then the fruits are picked from the side shoots. The vegetables are often used for pickling.
3. "True Friends" is a cold-hardy, disease-resistant, bee-pollinated hybrid of the female variety. Six to eight fruits are formed per node, the bush is sparsely branched, and the cucumbers are not bitter.
4. 'Regina Plus' is an ultra-early maturing hybrid with a female flowering type. It produces few lateral shoots and is disease-resistant. The fruit has excellent flavor and is suitable for fresh and pickled eating.

After harvesting, the vines are spread out on the ground, having first been removed from their supports. Diseased bushes and those lacking fruit are removed from the beds. On the remaining bushes, all shoots in the axils are pruned. The soil is loosened, fertilized with peat and ash, and watered with a grass infusion. Before the cold weather sets in, the plants are covered with plastic wrap. After this procedure, flowering begins again, and a second harvest of cucumbers can be harvested before autumn.

It's impossible to get a great vegetable harvest from high-quality seeds and a selected variety alone. Properly pinching cucumbers increases the yield and makes caring for them easier. Pinching, tying, fertilizing, and watering are easy to apply, even for novice vegetable growers. With care and attention, you can grow delicious cucumbers without bitterness or chemical additives.