How to properly form cucumbers into a single stem in a greenhouse

A simple agricultural technique like training cucumbers into a single stem is essential for obtaining a large harvest. It forces the plants to grow in the desired direction, preventing the plant from wasting energy and nutrients on developing useless tops. The training principle depends on the cultivar's group.

Is it necessary to shape cucumbers in a greenhouse?

The question of whether or not to train cucumbers into a single stem is of interest to many gardeners. In the quest for high yields, they want to find the most effective methods. This method involves removing all unnecessary shoots and branches from the plant and directing its growth in a specific direction. It applies to parthenocarpic varieties and hybrids grown in greenhouses and hotbeds.

If the procedure is performed correctly, you can expect an increase in the yield of fruits. Therefore, before undertaking this procedure, carefully review the basic recommendations. Bush training should be carried out in stages.

What happens if you don't shape cucumbers?

Only well-maintained garden plants can fully realize their fruiting potential. Growing cucumbers without proper attention will not yield satisfactory results. Neglected beds with overgrown and tangled foliage will make it more difficult for insects to pollinate. Fruits will not grow to the desired size.

Even simple tasks like weeding and loosening the soil can be problematic. Greenhouses create conditions conducive to the development of pathogens, and pests such as ants, slugs, and mole crickets appear. Controlling them is more difficult than preventing their infestation. All these factors negatively impact harvest yields and make life difficult for any gardener.

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The advantages of formed bushes with one stem

Forming cucumbers into a single stem is not difficult, and the effort will pay off at harvest time. Cluster varieties produce 4-7 ovaries per node. This places increased strain on the conductor. The advantages of forming cucumbers into a single stem:

• increased yield – formed bushes grow faster, bear more fruit and produce more fruit for a longer period;
• treated plants are less susceptible to various diseases and pests, thanks to normal ventilation and plenty of sunlight;
• Caring for the plantings becomes easier, the bushes do not intertwine with each other, they are easy to weed and loosen;
• obtaining larger fruits with normal taste;
• the possibility of denser planting of seedlings.

With the correct formation scheme, it is possible to collect 15 kg of fruit from one square meter.

Bush formation scheme

Cucumber training in a polycarbonate greenhouse is carried out using two methods. The difference lies in the number of stems. Each cucumber variety has its own characteristics. Parthenocarpic varieties are characterized by a large number of shoots, most of which are female. However, only a fifth of these produce fruit. Several side shoots emerge from a single ovary. The remaining shoots will die off on their own due to lack of moisture or nutrition. Therefore, training must begin promptly. Bee-pollinated and branched varieties do not require this treatment. The central stem consists primarily of male shoots, while female shoots are located on the sides. Removing them will result in crop loss.

If you're unsure how to form cucumbers into a single stem, watching videos, of which there are many online, will help. It's simple: in the first four axils, pluck out the ovaries, flowers, and side shoots. In the following nodes, leave the ovaries in place, and remove the shoots one by one along the entire length of the main stem. With a cluster hybrid, which has little branching, this process will take less time.

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Garter

Cucumbers grown in greenhouses require special care throughout the season. About a week after planting the seedlings, it's time to begin staking them. There are two types. For vertical staking, you'll need a trellis at the top of the greenhouse. One end of the twine is secured to the stem of the seedling under the second leaf, and the other is attached to the structure. The plant's stem will thicken as it grows, so the loop shouldn't be too tight. If the rope is too tight, the stem will be pulled out of the ground, and if it's too loose, it will dangle.

With the horizontal method, support is created using wire stretched over stakes. It resembles a ladder, with steps spaced 30–40 cm apart. As the stems grow, they are secured to them. You can also use cucumber netting, which is popular these days. The plant climbs it on its own with tendrils.

Watering and fertilizing

Cucumbers require ample, regular watering. However, stagnant moisture can cause root rot. Sprinkling the green parts of the plant with water is very beneficial. An automatic drip irrigation system can be installed for this purpose. Mulching the soil will help retain moisture longer.

Use warm water for irrigation; cold water will adversely affect the condition of the plants. After watering, loosen the soil to prevent a dry crust from forming. Using a watering can sometimes exposes the roots, so rake the soil up to them periodically.

Greenhouse soil is prone to rapid depletion. Therefore, growing cucumbers without supplemental feeding is impossible. Regular fertilization will help prevent nutrient deficiencies. However, it's not recommended to do this more than five times per season. The type of fertilizer is selected based on the plant's development stage and is applied in stages.

Active growth of seedlings begins 14 days after planting. At this time, a complex fertilizer containing phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium should be applied. During the flowering period, bushes require a mixture of nitrogen and potassium, and boron and magnesium will also be beneficial. During fruiting, mineral and organic fertilizers are especially necessary.

Removing lateral shoots and pinching

Shoots need to be removed, otherwise they will drain the bush of its strength and energy. They are not torn off, but cut with sharp tools to avoid damaging the foliage. Lateral leaves are removed, and flowers in the first three leaf axils are removed. Lateral shoots are left only at the top of the bush. This process can begin when the side shoots reach 3 cm in length.

Pinching is important for low-climbing varieties, where pinching out side shoots is not necessary. Pinching stimulates the growth of additional branches, which are also secured to the trellis. Pinching is done no earlier than the stem reaches the top of the support. Count seven nodes from the base of the plant and pinch off the top. Side shoots will emerge in the axils. It's enough to leave only a few of the strongest ones; the rest should be removed. As the bush grows, its vines will wrap clockwise around the wire. Twisting or pulling the vines is avoided, as this will weaken the plant.

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Care before and after the procedure

The best time to remove ovaries and shoots is morning. Any damage to the plant will heal by evening, minimizing the risk of infection. While working in the greenhouse, do not turn the vines over, otherwise the plants will die. Removing dried foliage will allow more light to reach the cucumbers.

Pruning shoots that have stopped bearing fruit is important, as they can become a source of infection. Removing these parts weakens the plant. It can be supported with fertilizer. Commercially available fertilizers and homemade herbal infusions are equally beneficial.

Prevention

Preventative measures against various diseases and harmful insects are crucial for maintaining healthy cucumber beds. Without them, all your efforts could be in vain. This preventative measure involves treating the planting material before transplanting it to the garden bed.

https://youtu.be/leHMHiB0V2U

If we're talking about seeds, they are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate or a fungicide. Experienced gardeners periodically spray seedlings with a nettle infusion. The systemic agent "Oxychom" is effective against fungus. It protects the plant from the outside and inside, neutralizing fungal spores.

Reviews

Alexey

I decided to plant cucumbers in my garden, but I'd never heard of cultivating them on a single stem. I wasn't happy with the yield the first year, so I started looking for ways to increase it. I learned about the steps needed on a specialized forum. I tried a new method and found it to be effective—I was able to harvest more cucumbers from each plant.

Rita

I accidentally heard about this technique called cucumber bush training. At first, I didn't understand it, but then I studied descriptions and photos online and was hooked. Last summer, the harvest was record-breaking, thanks to the creators of this method! The main thing is to proceed carefully so as not to damage the plants' delicate structures.

In addition to watering and weeding, cucumber plants require additional care. The single-stemmed planting method is only suitable for greenhouse plants of a certain variety. This method increases yield and strengthens the plant's immunity. If you don't have time to remove side shoots, it's best to choose varieties that don't require it.