How to properly preserve grape vines in winter

Grape

Information on how to preserve grapevines over winter will help gardeners avoid losses. This aromatic berry is native to the south, but with constant care, even in central Russia, it yields a good harvest. Grapevine branches can withstand frosts down to -20°C (-4°F), and roots down to -8°C (-8°F). Additional protection for vineyards is necessary in regions where temperatures drop below -30°C (-30°F). Plantings are prepared for winter starting in the fall. In the central part of the country, this begins in October, and in the south, in the first ten days of November.

The effect of cold on vines

Cold is the enemy of grapevines. The longer they remain exposed to it, the less likely they are to get a good harvest. Botanists have identified several consequences that result from exposure to low temperatures on berries:

destruction of perennial sleeves;
slowdown in annual growth;
destruction of the aboveground part;
destruction of the kidneys.

Note!

The rate at which negative effects occur depends on the grape variety and the duration of exposure to cold.

Which varieties to choose for winter?

Selecting the right planting material will help reduce the likelihood of negative outcomes. Botanists recommend storing specific grape varieties during the winter:

Alden;
Muscat of Alexandria;
"Moldova";
"in memory of Negrul";
Senso.

Scientists have concluded that the bunches of these varieties are resistant to fungal pathogens. After wintering, the grapes retain their flavor and color. A third advantage is that these varieties can withstand long-distance transportation.

Recommendations for preservation

Properly preserving aromatic grapes for the winter requires careful attention. Preparation includes inspecting the plantings. The presence of damaged or diseased vines is a compelling reason to prune immediately. During winter, the plant expends energy on maintaining its vital functions. The less "sap" is wasted on dead branches, the higher the chance of a harvest.

Autumn root-cutting is a procedure that will strengthen the root system. It's performed as follows:

a trench up to 20 cm deep is dug around the grape trunks;
remove all roots that are located at the same level as the main root;
purchase copper sulfate;
make a solution in the proportion of 2 parts water to 1 part copper sulfate;
up to 50 g of solution is used for each cut;
The ditch is filled with dry sand.

Winter storage will be trouble-free if the soil around the bushes is loosened. The final step is generous watering. Each bush requires up to one bucket. The water temperature should not be below room temperature.

Note!

Watering should be done at the end of November or one week before the first frost. If it rained 3-5 days before the scheduled frost, additional watering should not be done.

Pruning the vines

Planting requires bushes with a well-developed root system. The gardener ensures that the lowest bud is below ground level and the highest bud is above ground level. The following recommendations will help optimize grape storage over winter:

After hilling, the grapes are covered with soil - up to 6 cm;
cut the stem by 15 cm - there should be no more than 2 buds on it;
in summer, shoots will form from 2 buds;
lateral shoots must be removed;
leave a few leaves;
after the leaves fall, up to 4 buds will remain;
Covering is carried out after the leaves have finished falling.

Cutting the vine

After pruning is complete, the gardener begins the final stage. Preparation will be effective if it begins in mid-autumn. October is the month when the seedlings have the highest nutrient levels. The first rule is to work only with fruiting cuttings. Other branches cannot be used due to their insufficient development. The following diagram will help minimize the likelihood of errors:

recommended cutting thickness – 8 mm;
you can take a smaller diameter if the vine is well developed;
It is forbidden to divide the vine into parts in the internode area;
division is carried out 3 cm above the internode;
as a result, all the cut branches will have enough resources left to carry out the grafting;
Plants that do not have dark marks in the cut area will survive winter storage;
do not use a vine that is clearly crooked.

This last fact is controversial among botanists. There's no clear consensus on whether straight vines are better for storage than crooked ones. Each gardener decides for themselves which option suits them best.

https://youtu.be/bdanHjxeh-A

Preparatory stage

The length of pruned cuttings is a key factor in ensuring the safety of the seedlings over the winter. The recommended length is 1 m. Another important factor is regular and measured watering. The water content in the vines should not fall below 45%. As soon as gardeners cut the seedlings, they inspect them. They should be clearly ripe. Even one "weak" branch will lead to a drop in yield, so it is best to remove it early.

Proper storage location

Following a few rules will help you preserve aromatic grapes for a long time in winter.

Storage location for seedlings
Trench	Fridge	Basement
The cellar is used to store a large number of grape vines during the winter.	Preference is given to the freezer compartment where vegetables are stored. If that is not available, the bottom shelf of the refrigerator is used.	If the gardener has only a small amount of seed, they pour it into a suitable container. A layer of clean sand is added on top, 10 cm thick.
The trench depth is 10 cm greater than the length of the largest cutting. The sides and bottom of the trench are treated with a lime solution.	The temperature should not be below -5 C.	The prepared cuttings are placed so that they do not touch each other.
The bottom is covered with sand, 10 cm thick. Fertile soil is added on top of the sand, 10 cm thick.	The bottom of the seedlings is wrapped in damp and wrung-out paper. The next step is to pack the seedlings in a plastic bag, which is tied with string.	Containers with cuttings should not be placed in direct sunlight, otherwise the planting material will quickly burn out.
If everything is done correctly, the ground level will be slightly higher than the trench. If necessary, add additional fertile soil.	Completely wrapping seedlings is prohibited. Otherwise, the risk of rot increases significantly.	The seedlings are inspected every four days. If the soil has become dry, it is moistened.
Ditches are made next to each elevation. They are necessary for water drainage.	The condition of the seedlings is checked once a month.
	Once a month they are wiped with a cotton swab soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate.
	Once the seed has dried, it is sent back to the refrigerator, having been packaged as described above.

Note!

Storing in a trench is the least successful of all methods. The gardener has no way to monitor the condition of the seed.

Cold is the enemy of grapes, so gardeners prepare seedlings for winter in advance. They are stored at temperatures down to -5°C (5°F). In a private home, a basement is used, while in an apartment, a refrigerator is used. Before long-term storage, diseased and broken branches are removed. These consume a lot of resources but do not produce fruit. Regardless of the chosen storage method, the condition of the seedlings is checked every 5-6 days.