How to properly cover strawberries for the winter

To achieve a high strawberry yield, a technology is used that includes protecting plants from freezing during the cold season. Before covering strawberries for the winter, it's important to study the plant's characteristics, the characteristics of the insulation, and the preparatory steps. The choice of material depends on many factors; the protective layer can be made from readily available natural mixtures or ready-made insulating films.

Benefits of Covering

The question is whether it is necessary cover strawberries for the winter, is a concern for every gardener. The plant survives frosts well under a blanket of snow, which warms the bushes. However, the layer should be at least 27-30 cm thick, and the precipitation should remain on the bed as a continuous blanket throughout the cold season. In Russia's regions, the weather is not known for its consistency.

Winds blow snow off the beds, exposing the plant roots and making them vulnerable to freezing temperatures. Under these conditions, even light frosts can kill strawberries. Some regions experience thaws during the winter. During these periods, the bushes awaken to warmth, which quickly gives way to frost. Covering them will protect them from these undesirable changes.

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Drying out the soil and the plant itself negatively impacts the health of the bush. Nutrients from the soil are lost deep down, while the roots located close to the surface are left without moisture throughout the winter. In the spring, such unprotected bushes appear deadened, with weak buds and leaves.

Covering material for strawberries for the winter saves berry bushes from damage:

• Freezing of the root system. A snowless winter and a prolonged cold autumn will not only destroy the upper part but also negatively affect the base of the plant.
• Weathering of the topsoil. The covering soil is carried away by the wind, leaving the plant unprotected.
• High humidity. Excess moisture leads to root rot and rotting of the entire plant.
• Drying out. A dry climate and snowless winter will cause the plant to die.
• Mechanical damage. This happens when animals or poultry walk on the beds and trample them.

Features of the process

The decision to insulate the beds involves choosing the right material and determining the timeframe for the work. Before insulating strawberries for the winter, they need to be prepared. The process cycles are carried out in a specific sequence. This ensures good harvesting results.

Young bushes are completely covered, while perennials can only be wrapped in a circle. If there's already a layer of snow on the ground, place coniferous branches on top. In southern regions, it's best to mulch the root system and create a barrier around the perimeter of the bed to retain snow.

A mini-greenhouse is used, constructed over rows of bushes and covered with insulating material. The plant thrives in these conditions, but aeration must be monitored and the lid opened occasionally, weather permitting. The frame and covering are dismantled in early spring.

Specificity of garden strawberries

Strawberries have some developmental characteristics that are taken into account when choosing a method of insulation. The nuances are as follows:

• The root system is shallow, located 7-9 cm below the soil surface. Hoping that frost won't affect the system at this depth is unfounded.
• The above-ground portion of the plant and its roots can survive the winter with light frosts, but there is a limit to how much the plant will revive with the arrival of warmer temperatures: temperatures from -9 to ±2°C. If there are winds that further cool the soil in wind-exposed areas, this limit will change.
• It's important to cover the bushes at the right time, as early covering will cause the plant to bloom under the protective layer and can produce fruit under the insulating cover. The danger lies in the fact that on days when it's still warm outside, the strawberries will rot. This means you'll have to plant new plants in the spring to replace the old, spoiled ones.

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The bed is covered after the average daytime and nighttime temperatures are between -4 and +8°C. For example, Victoria strawberries are easy to grow and tolerate frost, but require barriers to keep snow from accumulating on beds that are inclined toward the sun.

Preliminary preparation

All required preparatory work is carried out in full, regardless of the chosen protection option. Prompt action is aimed at restoring the plant's health before winter and preparing the soil. Outdoor temperature is a universal guideline, but specific recommendations apply to each variety. Soil characteristics, composition, and exposure to sunlight are also taken into account.

To ensure a good harvest in the future, at least six weeks must pass after the fall transplant. During this time, the bushes will take root and adapt to their new locations. The timing is determined based on the specific site and the variety of strawberry being planted.

If replanting is not necessary, the overgrown shoots are thinned out. This involves removing old leaves and long tendrils. Dyed, wilted, and dried-out bushes are removed from the ground and replaced with healthy bushes. Thinning is done to optimize the nutrition of the remaining plants, ensuring they receive adequate amounts of minerals and vitamins.

Old plants shade new bushes, preventing them from receiving ultraviolet rays. This negative effect manifests itself in young plants, which cannot thrive in cramped conditions. Gardeners remove numerous pests from the garden bed by thinning the vegetation before the cold weather sets in. Beetles prepare to overwinter in the folds of dead leaves, so insect masses under plastic are not required.

Preparatory measures before covering for the winter:

• The soil is fertilized to ensure the plant survives the winter without losses. Micronutrients and vitamins strengthen the plant. A key feature of autumn fertilization is that only organic matter is added; nitrogen-containing compounds are not used. Humus and manure are used in calculated quantities.
• The soil is loosened after the watering period is complete. This procedure allows the root system to breathe, and moisture delivers nutrients more quickly.
• Mulch is applied to the root collar of the plant. This layer prevents cracks from forming and provides additional insulation. A lack of cracks is important, as cold air can penetrate through them to the roots. Peat, humus, and pine needles are used as mulch. These ingredients not only protect against the cold but also provide additional nutrition for the plants.
• The bushes are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 3%. The plants are completely treated and left to dry (1.5-2 days), after which they can be covered. To prepare the solution, take 3 g of the substance and dissolve it in water at a temperature of 22-24°C (1 liter). During treatment, the bushes are moistened, but not drenched; some contact with the soil is permitted.
• A protective barrier is constructed around the garden bed to preserve the first and subsequent snowfalls. Resources, stakes, and scrap panels are used.

Harsher climates require cover if dry, snow-free winters are expected. Strawberries are rarely grown in the Volga region, as maintenance is expensive and yields are low.

Protective layer material

Homeowners inevitably think about how to protect strawberries from frost during the winter. Various materials are used—natural or artificial. Each type has its own unique characteristics.

Layer of natural products

Fallen leaves and weeds are not suitable for insulating strawberry beds. Experienced gardeners immediately burn the accumulated material to prevent the spread of harmful insects. The strawberry plot can be insulated:

• Corn stalks and pepper stems are used. To kill visiting rodents, mouse poison is placed on top.
• The beds are covered with heavy leaves of maple, chestnut, poplar, and oak trees. Gardeners still debate whether it's safe to cover strawberries with walnut leaves. It's important to evaluate the weight to determine its pest safety. Rotten leaves are not suitable for covering. Walnut leaves take a long time to decompose and serve as ideal insulators. Heavy leaves are difficult to blow away when frozen.
• Wood sawdust is a good and inexpensive material. It is removed from the plot in early spring, as its mass contributes to soil acidification. The material provides a good cover for strawberries, and in winter, it doesn't blow away in the wind because it easily absorbs moisture and becomes heavy. A bucket of sawdust is used per 1 m².
• Reeds are readily available; a layer about 2 cm thick insulates strawberries from the cold. The heavy reeds are wind-resistant, easy to lay in a layer, and easy to harvest in the spring.
• A layer of spruce branches collected from fallen trees is a good choice. Pine branches are best for insulating garden beds. The heavy material holds snow between the needles.
• Hay retains heat well, but because it's lightweight, it tends to fly off the site. When stacking, weigh down the straw or hay with spruce branches or heavy leaves. Avoid stacking straw with grain residue, as this will act as a bait for mice. Moisture causes straw to rot, which can cause disease in the strawberry plants.

Polyvinyl chloride film

The sheets are laid over the beds, with bricks or other heavy objects placed on all sides. The wear-resistant film is resistant to minor mechanical stress, and the layer can be reused the following year after removal. Temperatures under the covering are close to ideal, but, unlike agrofibre, this material does not allow air to pass through.

A frame covering is also used. This is a labor-intensive method, but it's reliable; plants feel free and breathe. A mini greenhouse is easy for a gardener to build and doesn't require much expense. Used pipes, slats, and small beams—things you always have on hand—are suitable for the frame.

The film is stretched over supports dug into the garden beds or along the rows and secured with ties. The interior of the improvised shelter provides light, air circulation, and heat retention. The disadvantages of this method The following points apply:

• the work is more labor-intensive compared to simple ground covering;
• requires constant weather monitoring and regular ventilation to prevent mold.

The top layer is made of agrofibre similar to film.

Agrofibre for insulation

Another name for this material is spunbond. It's available in rolls, and the film comes in various thicknesses and widths, depending on needs. The thicker the agrofibre, the more severe frosts the bushes can withstand under the covering. When used, spunbond provides:

• microclimate required by technology;
• maximum insulation;
• the ability to fertilize and water through the canvas at the beginning of spring;
• Film turnover for 5 seasons.

Disadvantages include the high cost and labor-intensive nature of pre-measurement to purchase the required amount of material of the chosen width. Agrofibre with slits for each bush, laid on the ground, can damage plants during spring harvesting.