Lavender is a beautiful and fragrant plant native to the Mediterranean. Today, it grows in the gardens of many Russian gardeners. To ensure this beautiful southern plant delights with its annual blooms, it requires careful care, both during and after flowering. It often requires covering for the winter. The choice of suitable materials, covering methods, and optimal timing depend on the regional climate and the current year's weather conditions.
Soil care after flowering
To ensure lavender survives frosts well, it needs special conditions after flowering. It's important for the roots to receive oxygen. This can be achieved by loosening the soil. If the soil is dense, this process can be repeated several times during the season, removing weed roots along the way. To prevent recurrence, you can cover them with small stones (such as river pebbles), which will also act as drainage.
Autumn replanting is necessary if the bush:
- stopped developing;
- grows in an inconvenient place;
- has become too big and is taking up a lot of space.
The procedure is carried out in August-September. The bushes are dug up carefully, taking care not to disturb the root system. It's advisable to leave the root ball intact, as this helps prevent damage. Despite the bush's relatively compact size, its roots can penetrate to a depth of up to 4 meters. However, this doesn't prevent transplanting, as the plant tolerates it well.
Before covering lavender, mulch. Dry grass, sawdust, compost, and humus can be used as mulch. The latter can act as a long-lasting fertilizer. The material is sprinkled under the bushes, pushing the shoots back. Mulch only the area around the trunk; do not cover the trunk itself, otherwise it will rot.
If compost was used as mulch, no additional fertilizer is needed. This is sufficient for lavender, as it naturally thrives in poor, rocky soil. If compost is unavailable, enrich the soil with ash or phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. These measures are necessary to ensure a profuse bloom next year. When fertilizing, keep in mind that this perennial plant does not tolerate excess nitrogen, so it's important not to overdo it.
The nuances of an autumn haircut
In preparation for winter, pruning bushes older than two years is essential. While pruning in the spring is done for sanitary reasons (removing dead branches), in the fall, branches are trimmed: firstly, for aesthetic reasons, and secondly, to prevent them from breaking under the weight of the snow.
If the plant is old, it may require rejuvenating pruning. This is done with pruning shears or garden shears. This procedure should begin immediately after the second flowering period ends, usually in September. After pruning in the fall, lavender stems don't necessarily need to be discarded. They, like the flowers, have a rich scent, so they can be used to create ikebana arrangements or sachets.
A mature perennial has woody, dry parts at the base and green ones at the top. In the fall, lavender branches should be pruned back, leaving 5 cm (2 inches) from the woody parts. After this, the plant will look rather modest, but don't be alarmed. With the arrival of warmer weather, it will grow again and will delight you with a profuse bloom.
If you prune the shoots correctly, there won't be any problems. However, some gardeners take pity on their bushes and make cuts too high. As a result, when the green parts become woody, the perennial becomes unkempt. It loses its round shape and falls apart in all directions. To correct this, it's necessary to perform a rejuvenation pruning: a cut 5-10 cm from the ground along the woody branches. This procedure is quite painful.
Shelter methods depending on the region
It's impossible to give a precise date for covering lavender for the winter, as the weather can vary from year to year. It's best to base your calculations on the air temperature. As soon as the nighttime temperature consistently drops to 5°C, you can begin the process, especially if warmer weather isn't expected anytime soon.
South
Since winters in the south are warm, lavender doesn't need to be covered. A slight cold snap comes late and goes early. Therefore, even without much snow, the perennial thrives. In this case, mulching the area around the trunk is sufficient. To prevent branches from breaking in the wind, the bush should be tied and leaned against the ground.
Moscow region
The temperate climate is characterized by changeable winter weather with constant temperature fluctuations and regular frosts. In January, temperatures can drop to -30°C. Heavy snowfalls, however, are not always present. Without precipitation, unprotected lavender will freeze and will not recover. To prevent this, surround the bush with a thick layer of mulch and cover it with pine branches.
Volga region
The cold season here lasts a long time – from the last week of November until the first days of April. Frosts can reach -30°C, but this is rare. The average temperature is -14°C. Precipitation is frequent. Snow provides additional warmth to the plant, so it doesn't require much insulation. Mulching and building a shelter from pine branches are sufficient. If precipitation is light, the shelter is additionally insulated with non-woven material.
Northern regions
In winter, before reaching the Urals and Siberia, the Atlantic Ocean cools. As early as December, temperatures here can drop to -35°C. To ensure the plant survives in these conditions, it needs to be well insulated: cover the roots with soil, apply a thick layer of mulch around the trunk, tie the shoots with twine and cover with burlap or spunbond, and then build a shelter of spruce branches on top of all this.
Possible causes of plant death
Sometimes lavender fails to survive the winter. This can happen for several reasons, but the main one is the wrong choice of covering material. Artificial film, polyethylene, and fallen leaves are absolutely unsuitable. These materials create a greenhouse effect, especially in the root zone. If lavender bushes overwinter in such conditions, they may rot.
Fallen leaves collected at the dacha are also dangerous because they can contain dangerous viruses, bacteria, and fungi. If a perennial is infected, treatment and recovery will be lengthy. The best covering materials are burlap and spunbond. They protect branches from ice buildup while allowing air to pass through.
Other reasons for lavender death include:
- Excessive moisture. In the spring, when the snow melts, the plant can become waterlogged. To prevent this, choose a location with well-drained soil from the start.
- Severe frosts. Even with good insulation, the plant may not survive the cold. This is especially true for plants under two years old.
- Beetles and leafhoppers attack. They can be picked off the branches from time to time. If they return, it's best to replace the mulch layer.
Lavender care in the fall requires careful attention. Its chances of survival depend on it. Of course, immediately after the snow melts, the bushes won't look their best, so be prepared for that. However, over time, the unsightly thickets will revive, and then you can begin to cultivate them. Delicate lavender requires constant, high-quality care. If done correctly and on time, it will delight you with profuse blooms and a pleasant aroma that will permeate the surrounding area.
Lavender: Growing from Seed