Preparing grapes for winter in the Moscow region for beginners

Growing heat-loving grapes in the temperate climate is within the reach of any gardener. Frost-resistant varieties have been bred specifically for harsh conditions, and with proper care, the plants will produce a harvest by autumn.

But in such a climate, the crop must be covered during the cold period, otherwise even zoned species will not survive the frost.

Preparing grapes for winter In the Moscow region, this is an important agricultural technique that helps protect vines from freezing temperatures. A thorough study of the main preparation steps and practical application of this knowledge will prevent any problems in the future.

Preliminary activities

Before deciding to grow this capricious and heat-demanding crop in the temperate zone, it is necessary to consider a number of conditions:

• choose a place on the plot that is suitable for grapes, sunny, protected from the winds;
• purchase varieties that are resistant to the cold and vagaries of the Moscow region climate;
• Prepare the necessary materials for shelters in advance.

The off-season in the Moscow region is unpredictable, so it's important to be prepared for any weather anomalies. Therefore, before harvesting, people stock up on shelter poles, non-woven fabric, and boards. In September, they gather spruce branches and craft wooden shields so they're fully prepared for winter before the onset of stable cold weather.

Preparing plants before covering

Grapevines in the Moscow region are cared for throughout the season, as even the strongest shelters won't help if weakened plants go into winter.

Care activities:

• deformed and diseased shoots are cut out;
• treat the plantings with preparations against infections and insect pests;
• The crop is regularly fed.

For grapes grown in temperate climates, it is recommended to limit the number of bunches per vine. Firstly, if the branches are heavily loaded, not all bunches will ripen. Secondly, with high yields, the vines take a long time to develop woodiness and may not have time to prepare for the cold weather.

Starting around mid-August, watering is reduced and then stopped completely. This delays shoot growth and promotes the accumulation of special phytohormones in the roots, inducing a dormant period.

During dry autumn, moisture recharging is carried out watering grapes, adhering to the exact timing of the procedure. Fertilizer is applied and excess shoots are removed.

Abundant watering

Autumn irrigation of grapevines influences future yields. By creating a water reserve for the roots, optimal soil moisture is achieved and the plant adapts to lower temperatures.

Water generously, ensuring the water penetrates deep into the soil. Watering rates depend on the age of the plants, but typically range from 5 to 10-12 buckets per plant. The recommended time for watering is mid- to late October, based on the weather and the condition of the plants.

The best method is watering through special pipes buried in the ground. If such devices are unavailable, irrigate the soil through furrows and pits. The soil is loosened in the morning, watered in the late afternoon, and then carefully loosened again the next day.

Moist soil freezes less, which minimizes the risk of damage to plant roots.

Fertilizer

The plant expends all its energy and nutrients on ripening the berries. Therefore, in the Moscow region, grapes require additional fertilizing in the fall. Before the leaves fall, it is recommended to treat the bushes with solutions of boric acid, potassium permanganate, or iodine.

For root feeding use:

• extraction of any potassium and phosphorus fertilizers;
• dry mixture of superphosphate (25 grams) and potassium salt (25 grams).

Dry fertilizers are thoroughly mixed with the soil. Watered fertilizers are applied to a depth of 20-30 cm. Watering is done through pits or pipes.

Pest and disease control

Caring for grapes in autumn This includes treating plants for diseases. Before wintering, grapevines are sprayed with copper-containing preparations. These protect the vines from black spot, anthracnose, and mildew.

Treatment with Bi-58, Topsin, and Decis will provide reliable pest control. Spray only after the berries have been harvested, following the instructions. It's also a good idea to whitewash the lower parts of the grape shoots to protect the plants from rodents.

Trimming

An important and mandatory reception before wintering – pruning bushes. Main tasks:

• remove excess fruiting shoots;
• prune young vines that have not yet matured by the deadline;
• cut off diseased, damaged branches of bushes.

It's recommended to prune the vines at the first sign of frost, but not before temperatures drop below -3°C (-3°F). Don't prune immediately after harvesting; the plant needs time to recover from the stress and accumulate some nutrients. Delaying pruning is also important, as it will waste nutrients.

Basic pruning options:

• with a standard;
• fan method.

The methods are chosen based on the characteristics of the crop varieties and the capabilities of the gardener.

Standard method of pruning grapes

In the conditions of the Moscow region it is rarely used, most often for varieties grown for decorative purposes.

Events:

• pruning the plant in the first year in autumn to 2-4 buds;
• in the spring of the second year, selection of the strongest shoots from the overwintered shoots - the trunk and additional (reserve);
• autumn pruning of the future trunk to 2-3 buds;
• pruning the reserve shoot to 2-3 buds;
• all other shoots are broken off;
• in the third year in the fall, the trunk is cut at the chosen height, leaving two upper shoots to form branches;
• pruning the reserve shoot, leaving two shoots.

Every year, buds (5-6 pieces) and replacement branches are preserved on the reserve shoot.

Fan-shaped or standard-less grape pruning scheme in the Moscow region

This method is popular in sheltered viticulture areas, as it allows for the preservation of plantings even during severe frosts. Features of fan-shaped vineyards:

• leave several perennial branches with fruit vines;
• The skeleton of the bush is formed over the course of 2-3 years, and then the shape is only maintained according to the chosen scheme.

The choice of the number of sleeves is determined taking into account the type of trellis, climatic conditions, and the wishes of the winegrower.

Events:

• in the autumn of the first season, the bush is pruned, leaving 2-3 buds;
• in the second year in the spring, two shoots are left to grow, growing on different sides of the main branch of the bush;
• autumn pruning of the second year – by replacement branch, leaving 2-3 buds.

In the following seasons, in the fall, the shoots that produced fruit are pruned and new vines are left from the shoots of the replacement branch.

Covering grapes

Covering the shoots begins when the bushes have shed their leaves and a constant air temperature has been established (around minus two degrees Celsius). Covering too early is not recommended, as the shoots will rot due to the excessively warm microclimate within the shelter. Late covering can cause the vines to freeze, and the first frosts are especially damaging to young plantings.

There are many ways to preserve shrubs during the cold season, and gardeners choose the most suitable ones. In the Moscow region, complete cover is commonly used, using various materials: soil, film, spruce branches, and more.

Covering grapes with soil

This is a simple technology, accessible even to novice winegrowers. It's not the most effective, especially for young plantings, as there's a high risk of freezing in harsh winters.

Stages:

• the vines are removed from the supports, treated with a solution of ferrous sulfate (300 grams per bucket of water), and tied into bundles;
• planks, slate, and plywood are laid on the ground;
• bunches of vines are bent to the ground and pinned down with metal brackets;
• Sprinkle the grapes on top with a layer of slightly moistened soil (up to 13-15 cm thick).

For added security, the top layer of soil is covered with leaves, then another layer of soil. After the first snowfall, the shelters are further covered with snow.

Gardeners in the Moscow region often plant grapes in boxes or trenches. When covering them for the winter, the pruned vines are simply bent into the trench and covered with insulation.

Covering grapes with film

Durable polymer films reliably protect plantings from severe cold and frost. It's advisable to use materials with a mirror-like finish or opaque films in light shades that block and reflect sunlight. Such covers prevent a greenhouse effect and prevent condensation.

For rows of grapes up to 15-20 meters long, entire strips of film are used. For longer rows (over 20 meters), the plants are covered, leaving ventilation openings.

Stages:

• prepare arches in advance from steel wire or wood (ash, maple, acacia);
• lay the planks on the ground;
• the vines are cut, tied, and bent to the surface of the ground;
• the shoots should lie on the boards without touching the ground;
• arches are installed on top;
• carefully place the film on the arches;
• the edges of the film shelter are secured with stones, earth, and boards;
• The end holes are left open until frost sets in (-12ºC…-15ºC).

The winter shelter is covered with snow on top.

Installing hoops is essential, as this prevents the film from touching the vines. Without hoops, laying the film directly on the shoots creates a risk of frost cracks and vine fractures. This leads to vine deformation and the development of various diseases.

To increase the effectiveness of the plastic covers, the spaces between the rows are mulched. To protect the grapes from rodents, bait is placed under the film.

Covering grapes with spruce branches

Suitable for small plantings and young grapes. The spruce branches are prepared in advance, using only green branches.

Stages:

• pruning grapes according to the chosen pattern, the sleeves and vines are connected;
• the bundles are bent to the ground, after first placing boards or slate underneath them;
• the shoots are twisted into a ring;
• cover the top with spruce branches, strengthening the edges with stones or bricks;
• The spruce branches are covered with burlap on top.

Experienced gardeners in the Moscow region note the effectiveness of this method. Even in severe frosts, provided everything is done correctly, the shoots in the shelter do not freeze.

Covering grapes with purchased materials

In addition to soil, film and spruce branches, grapes are covered with:

• straw;
• sawdust;
• agrofibre;
• with reed mats.

Gardeners most often use combinations of different materials (spruce branches and soil, sawdust and film). Covering plantings with nonwoven materials (spunbond, lutrasil) is popular. These fabrics are environmentally friendly, allow moisture to pass through well (prevent condensation), and block UV rays. Thanks to a special production technology, the fabric threads can withstand temperature fluctuations and high humidity. Agrofibre is suitable for repeated use (up to 4-6 seasons).

Stages:

• the bushes are pruned and disinfected with potassium permanganate or a solution of copper sulfate;
• bend the shoots into the trenches, pinning them with staples;
• install arches made of steel wire;
• place the fabric on the arches, leaving the ends of the shelters open;
• Later, the protection is sprinkled with snow on top.

If the vines are to be covered without a trench, the bundles of tied shoots are wrapped in agrofibre and then bent to the ground. The vines are "swaddled" along their entire length to protect them from frost.

When to remove the shelter after winter

The plants are uncovered gradually in the spring, airing the vines on warm days. Grapes can withstand slight cold snaps down to -4ºC, but not below. Therefore, the covers are removed when stable above-zero temperatures are established and the snow has completely melted.

The soil must dry out; water must not accumulate near the plantings. Inexperienced winegrowers, trying to protect the vines from the cold, uncover the plantings late. However, this leads to vine damping off, and shoots begin to grow under the covers.

If it's warm outside and the shoots aren't open, they'll still start growing. As a result, opening the protection results in weak, chlorophyll-depleted plants (leached). These are unviable and will have to be removed. To prevent this, monitor the condition of the plants, the outside temperature, and the weather conditions.

The plastic covers are removed during the day and re-covered at night, in case of cold weather. The plantings are fully uncovered when stable warm days arrive and the threat of frost has passed. The grape plantings are treated with fungicides and special pest control solutions:

• Nitrofen;
• Oxychom;
• Karbofos.

The shoots are checked for viability: a piece is cut with pruning shears and the buds are inspected. The cut should be green, with green leaflets visible under the bud scales.

Immediately after removing the cover, the grapes are raised onto the trellises but not tied down. The vines need time to rest and adapt after the winter. The shoots are spread out on the trellis to air for approximately 2-3 days. Then the plants are tied up (dry staking).

Specific dates are determined by the weather and the condition of the plants.

Helpful Tips

Experienced gardeners have accumulated extensive experience caring for vineyards in the challenging conditions of the central region. Here are some tips on preparing grapes for winter from seasoned winegrowers in the Moscow region:

• It is recommended to thoroughly mulch the soil between plantings;
• for covering, use the soil from between the rows, and not from the roots of the plant;
• when covering with earth, use the option with a three-layer cover (soil, leaves or well-rotted compost, loose soil);
• Snow from paths is also used to fill with snow;
• Twice a year the soil around the plantings is dug up to reduce the risk of freezing of the grape roots;
• You cannot put any insulation under the vine; only boards, slate, and roofing felt are suitable.

Knowing, How to cover grapes for the winter in the Moscow regionBy properly preparing the plantings for winter, gardeners can rest assured that the bushes will survive. Successful wintering of the crop is the key to future high yields, disease-free growth, and minimal effort for the winegrower during the summer.