How to grow camellia at home and what varieties of the flower stand out

Camellia flowers resemble roses. However, botanically, they belong not to the rose hip genus, but to the tea family. In the wild, they are trees with unformed crowns, reaching up to 15 meters. They grow naturally in the Philippines, Japan, China, and Indochina. By the 7th century AD, noblewomen were already adorning their gowns with snow-white buds. European breeders had already succeeded in creating new varieties at that time. camellia Potted plants can be found in offices and apartments. The height of such a plant does not exceed 2.5 m.

Description of the plant

In total, about 1,000 species of evergreen low trees, brought from the subtropics, have been described. They vary in size, number of inflorescences, and petal color. But they all share a common feature: green, elliptical leaves, blunt or pointed, on short petioles. Single flowers range from 2 to 15 cm in diameter. In artificially bred varieties, they are double, with multiple petals. The seeds are contained in capsules that are divided into five compartments.

The most popular species grown at home:

1. Chinese camellia. You can even make tea from it. Few people know that the name "baihovy" comes from the silvery fluff that covers the leaves. In Chinese, this word sounds like "bai-ho."
2. The reticulated variety gets its name from the vibrant, contrasting veins on the petals. The flowers are enormous, up to 23 cm. Colors range from white to pink, with black being rare. It has a delicate fragrance.
3. Sazanka, or mountain camellia, is often used for breeding. It blooms regularly, with medium-sized buds. The leaves are elongated, ovoid, emerald green on the upper side and lighter on the underside. A pubescent vein runs down the center. Flowers are up to 7 cm in diameter. They can be solitary or clustered in inflorescences, all uniform in color or with streaks and colored spots.
4. Japanese – with shiny, serrated leaves of a vibrant dark green. Flowers are small (4–5 cm in diameter), semi-double or double, in pink, white, red, or cream.

It is on the basis of the latter species that many decorative varieties have been developed:

• Margaret Davis - snow-white, with a pink or purple border;
• bell-shaped - with a white halo in the middle and a red border along the edges of the petals;
• forest green - bright red, double;
• Pink Perfection - double pink;
• Adolf Audosson - scarlet;
• Alba Simplex - simple, snow-white.

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Indoors, the plant grows more slowly—no more than 10–15 cm per year. It requires plenty of light. Bonsai can be created from all flower species. To do this, thin the bushes, trim the branches by two-thirds of their length, and disinfect them thoroughly. They are secured in the desired position with wire frames and secured. After 2–3 years, the plant reaches a height of up to 50 cm. This shaping does not affect the quality of the flowering.

How to properly care for an indoor flower

In the wild, camellias can withstand temperatures as low as -5°C and begin forming buds at 10°C. They bloom for 8-10 months a year, making it seem very easy to care for. But this isn't entirely true. If you don't create conditions similar to those found in nature, the plant will develop a lush crown, but you won't be able to admire its delicate petals.

Camellias bloom indoors in winter. To ensure a comfortable environment, it's best to place them near a wide window or on a covered balcony. In warmer conditions, the buds won't open. However, if temperatures rise too much, the leaves will begin to fall.

Choosing a location

Caring for a camellia at home begins with choosing a suitable location. It must be permanent. If you move or even slightly rotate the pot, the flowers will fall off after they emerge. Even if the tree is on a balcony with wide windows, you'll need to install grow lights. Daylight should be extended to 12 hours.

Comfortable microclimate

In spring and summer, the plant easily tolerates temperatures of 24–25°C, but by autumn, when flower buds begin to form, the temperature must be reduced to standard room temperatures of 18–20°C. To encourage the buds to open, the room will need frequent ventilation, but avoiding drafts. The optimal temperature is 12°C. However, flowering can be achieved at 16°C. However, the inflorescences will not be as double and large as desired.

Humidity

Watering schedules vary depending on the season. In summer, water generously, in winter, moderately, but always wait until the soil surface dries out. When growing a crown in warmer months, avoid allowing the soil to dry out too much, as this can cause the root system to die off.

Use only settled water (even if it's from a natural source), 1–2°C warmer than room temperature. It can be slightly acidified with a few drops of vinegar or citric acid. If the water contains lime, growth will slow and the foliage will begin to turn yellow.

During the summer, the leaves should be misted at least 2-3 times a week. Once buds appear, stop misting. If you don't have a humidifier, place a container of water next to the planter to increase humidity.

Top dressing

If the soil has been recently replenished, no fertilizer is required. However, after a month, additional feeding will be necessary. Avoid experimenting with home remedies, as well as with organic matter: the plant is capricious. Water with diluted mineral fertilizer for roses or azaleas once a month while the crown is developing, and 2-3 times while buds are forming. When growing indoors, it is recommended to reduce the concentration of the solution by 1.5-2 times.

Diseases and pests

The diseases that most threaten indoor camellias are root rot, or phyllostictosis, and brown spot. These diseases are caused by either overwatering or hypothermia. In the former case, the plant should be immediately repotted in disinfected, breathable soil, and then the watering regimen should be normalized. In the latter case, remove the affected parts and spray the foliage with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture.

In the summer, a tree growing indoors may be attacked by aphids, scale insects, and spider mites. To get rid of them, spray the insects with water, remove any traces of their activity from the leaves, and then spray with a solution of green soap or laundry soap. You can also immediately treat the tree with insecticides in the form of oil emulsions.

Camellia transplant

Before transferring a plant to a new pot, it needs to be pruned. This is done to reduce stress on the root system. The shoots will root easily later. Crown shaping is also done after flowering has ceased. The cuts are treated with garden pitch or sprinkled with crushed wood or activated charcoal. Branches can be shortened by two-thirds, with the exception of Camellia reticulata.

Young plants are repotted annually, while mature plants are repotted every two years. Unscheduled repotting is performed if the root system begins to rot. If there are no signs of disease, the transshipment method is used—the root ball is not shaken off.

Camellias require a soil pH of 6–6.5. A peat-based soil mix can be purchased at the store. Pine needles, pine bark chips, perlite, and coarse sand can be added. Alternatively, you can create your own soil mix: 1 part sand, 2 parts peat, and 2 parts leaf mold (coniferous soil). Bake the soil in the oven at 150°C for 30 minutes, then water with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. If the soil pH is insufficient, acidify it with oxalic or citric acid, or vinegar (dissolving 0.25 teaspoon in 1 liter of water).

Choose a pot 2–4 cm larger in diameter than the previous one. Add a drainage layer to the bottom, then dust it with potting soil and transfer the camellia, holding it by the trunk. Fill the voids with new soil and compact it lightly to hold the plant upright.

Camellia propagation

Growing from seeds is very labor-intensive. Gardeners dislike this method because it's time-consuming. Furthermore, the mother plant's qualities aren't always preserved. Seedlings are used only as rootstocks. But if you're feeling experimental, soak the seeds in a biostimulant. Then, sow them in peat pellets or cups filled with potting soil, cover with plastic wrap, and place them in a warm, bright spot. Once established, transplant them to a pot. They don't begin to bloom for at least 5-7 years.

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Cuttings preserve the characteristics of the species. The upper parts of the branches are cut off, and any remaining parts are used. The lower parts of the 5–8 cm long branches are dipped in heteroauxin, and after 15–30 minutes, they are placed in a soil mixture of equal parts peat and sand. The cuttings are kept at a temperature of 20–24°C. The cuttings root within 3 weeks.

1. During the active growth period, air layering can be used. The shoot is pruned, leaving 10 cm of it with one growth bud and a leaf above it. The rest of the area is left bare. An incision (approximately 1.5 cm deep) is made under the leaf node, treated with a biostimulant, and wrapped in sphagnum moss. The shoot is then moistened, wrapped in plastic film, and secured in place, but still able to be lifted for watering or ventilation. Leave at 24-25°C for 3 weeks until roots develop. Then the shoot and roots are cut off and replanted in a separate container. Propagation by grafting is not used indoors. This method is very labor-intensive and does not prove effective.

You can tell that the conditions for camellia are not comfortable enough by the following signs:

1. Leaf fall begins if there is not enough moisture, it is too hot, or the soil is very compact.
2. Brownish or pale spots on the leaves, similar to burns, indicate that the plant is suffering from direct sunlight.
3. Rust on stems appears due to overwatering.
4. Excessive growth of green mass - due to overuse of nitrogen fertilizers.

In such cases, it's worth normalizing your care regimen, and the camellia will definitely bloom, delighting everyone with its attractive appearance in the garden or living space.