How to Grow Strong Pepper Seedlings: Step-by-Step Instructions

Growing hot and sweet pepper seedlings at home requires time, space, and a certain knowledge of agricultural techniques. Peppers are a finicky crop and require specific nutrition, moisture, and warmth.

Without careful attention, seedlings stop developing and vegetative processes stop, which affects the harvest.

How to start growing pepper seedlings at home

In January, you need to decide on varieties and hybrids that are suited to the local climate. When looking at colorful seed packets at the store, pay attention to the ripening time. Varieties are divided into:

• early, producing a full harvest 80-100 days after emergence;
• mid-season, ripening in 115 days;
• late peppers, the harvest of which begins to ripen 130 days after germination.

To grow peppers outdoors in Russia, you need to purchase seeds of early-ripening and mid-early varieties. Early pepper seeds are needed to meet summer production needs, while mid-late varieties are needed to harvest in the fall for cooking and canning.

If peppers are to be grown indoors, mid-late indeterminate hybrids with a ripening period of up to 125 days are selected for greenhouse planting. These varieties continually develop a crown, where both flowers and fruits can be seen simultaneously.

Once you've determined the ripening time, pay attention to the shape. Sweet peppers come in a variety of shapes. They can be:

• elongated and outwardly resembling large hot pepper pods;
• conical, with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm;
• spherical, thin-walled, small in size;
• cylindrical or cubic, with different flavors and wall thicknesses.

The surface of the pepper can have smooth lines, or be bumpy, with many depressions, soft creases and folds.

Pay attention to the pepper's color, which varies at both technical and biological maturity. At technical maturity, the color can be soft yellow, light green, or dark green. Light-colored peppers have thin walls and are often used for stuffing. They have a pleasant tart flavor and are small in size, making them convenient for preparing individual dishes.

Dark green peppers are thick-walled and have a distinct flavor, but at the technical stage of ripeness, the flesh does not yet have time to accumulate sugars, which degrades the characteristics of this variety of paprika in its green form.

Dark green peppers have an advantage over light-colored fruits:

1. They ripen well after harvesting, retaining smooth, juicy walls, while light-colored peppers quickly lose moisture and shrivel at low humidity levels.
2. Once ripe, the dark green fruits take on a bright, rich shade of red or yellow.
3. They have excellent taste.
4. Resistant to fungal infections and bacterial rot.
5. They can be transported over long distances.
6. The harvested crop is stored for about 2 months.

The last thing to consider is the height of the bush. It can range from 40 to 170 cm. Low-growing determinate bushes are planted in open ground. They form several clusters and finish the growing season devoting all their energy to producing the fruit that has set.

Tall indeterminate bushes are plants whose vegetative period will continue until they die due to low temperatures or infection. These bushes are planted indoors to ensure prolonged fruiting. If they are planted in garden beds, most of the fruit will be lost to the first frost of autumn.

Sowing rules

To ensure your seedlings thrive, follow the growing guidelines recommended by agronomists. Peppers require optimal growing conditions. They require nutritious soil with a normal pH level, enriched with potassium and nitrogen. At the beginning of the growing season, seedlings need:

• in the warmth;
• in daylight hours lasting at least 12 hours;
• top dressing;
• abundant watering;
• loose soil.

If all these parameters are met, the seedlings will delight you with their vigorous growth. If any of these requirements are violated, the pepper plant will stop growing and wait for a better life.

Sowing dates

After carefully reading the manufacturer's recommendations on the seed packet, choose the right time to sow. Theoretically, peppers should be sown for seedlings two months before planting outdoors. Since peppers are a heat-loving crop, seedlings are planted at the end of the first week of June. Therefore, sowing seeds in early March should fully satisfy this requirement.

Many vegetable growers sow seeds earlier to allow time to replant any varieties that haven't sprouted in March. Peppers can be kept as seedlings for a while. They grow well when spaced more than 3 cm apart. During the first 2-3 months, they develop their root system, and if the pots are the right height, the seedlings can remain in them for up to 4 months from germination. The most important requirement is a suitable growing location. It should be:

• illuminated;
• closed from drafts;
• with an average daily temperature of at least 22C;
• humidity of at least 60%.

Preparing the seeds

Many vegetable growers sow dry seeds in deep containers, water the soil generously with hot water, cover the seedlings with several layers of plastic, and wait for the seedlings to emerge. This approach isn't always practical. Dry seeds can be sown in the ground if:

• they were purchased from trusted manufacturers;
• the seeds have undergone antibacterial treatment;
• sowing occurs at an early stage;
• It is possible to transplant seedlings after they have sprouted.

Professionals do not recommend this method because it produces unexpected results and it is impossible to predict the harvest with this type of seeding. This method has the following disadvantages:

• you never know if seedlings will appear;
• the seeds wake up and germinate very slowly, up to 3 weeks;
• if the seedlings are dense, you need to thin them out and pick out the seedlings;
• There are always poorly growing plants that need to be culled.

With proper agricultural technology, which guarantees a high yield, you need to:

• treat the seed material with an antiseptic and fungicide;
• increase the degree of resistance to climatic growing conditions;
• increase growth energy;
• check for germination;
• make highly nutritious soil;
• Sow several seeds in tall pots.

Only then will the sown seeds produce uniform shoots, and the adult bushes will have equal opportunities for fruiting.

How to properly prepare seeds

First, the seeds need to be calibrated. To do this, they are laid out on paper and the very small or very large seeds are removed, giving preference to the average-sized ones.

Then the calibrated seeds are soaked in salt water to separate the full-fledged seed material from the empty ones.

To obtain a solution, dissolve 3 tablespoons of salt in 1 liter of water and place pepper seeds in the resulting solution.

After 10 minutes, everything that ends up on top is removed, and all the settled seeds are used for sowing.

To prevent fungal or bacterial infections, it is recommended to soak the seeds in a solution of Fitosporin, prepared according to the manufacturer's recommendations on the packaging. In addition to Fitosporin, a complex micronutrient fertilizer is added to the water. This pre-sowing treatment has been proven to increase yields by 30%.

After the preventative maintenance, the seeds are hardened off. Moist pepper seeds are placed in the refrigerator for three days, where they are kept on the top shelf. During this time, biochemical processes occur within them, making the cells less sensitive to temperature fluctuations. Seedlings grown from these seeds will adapt much more easily to weather conditions.

After hardening, the seeds need to be germinated. Place them in the center of a cotton cloth, cover the cloth with an envelope, place them in a container, and pour hot water (no more than 60°C) over them until the cloth is soaked. Place the container in a warm place where the temperature does not drop below 20°C.

Within 10 days the seeds germinate.

Important: You need to make sure that the fabric does not dry out, otherwise the roots will dry out from lack of moisture and the seed stock will die.

Getting ready for sowing

For pepper seedlings to thrive, they need nutritious soil. You can prepare your own soil by mixing equal parts of:

• wood ash;
• river sand;
• leaf humus;
• turf soil.

Add 1 teaspoon of superphosphate per 1 liter of soil to the resulting mixture. This can be replaced with a complex fertilizer for growing seedlings at the dosages specified by the manufacturer.

Many people who buy overgrown pepper seedlings at the market, growing in tiny cups, often observe sluggish growth and a lack of fruit set after planting them outdoors. This is because the plant's long stems were forced to grow due to insufficient light and excess nitrogen. Its root system was suppressed by the lack of space, leading to the closure of the growing points.

The ideal container for growing pepper seedlings could be:

• disposable 0.5 l plastic cups;
• cut plastic bottles;
• vegetable containers from an old refrigerator;
• plastic boxes for storing vegetables;
• children's buckets.

The deeper the container you choose, the longer the root system will grow. This determines how well the plant will tolerate transplanting and how quickly it will begin to set fruit.

The selected containers should be clean and dry. If they have already been used for planting, rinse the pot in a disinfectant solution, wipe it dry, and leave it outside for 24 hours.

Before adding nutrient soil, you need to make several drainage holes in the bottom using a nail or an awl.

Sowing seeds

Pack the prepared containers tightly with soil, leaving 30 mm of space at the rim. Add a little hot water to the filled 9 mm diameter cup to moisten the soil. Then, use a pencil to make three 2 cm deep holes, place a seed in each, and cover with peat or sand.

You can compact the soil, place 4 sprouted seeds in the center at a distance of 3 cm, and cover the top with fertile soil to a height of at least 2 cm.

Seeds can be sown in peat tablets, which should be placed on a tray and watered. Once the seedlings grow and the roots require more space, the peat tablets can be planted in pots.

Cover the seed containers with plastic wrap and place them in a warm place until the first shoots appear. Once the seven-lobed leaves appear, move the plants to a south- or west-facing window.

Proper care

Using sprouted seeds allows seedlings to begin accelerated vegetative growth. It's important to monitor the soil. Water should not stagnate in the cups. Overwatered soil rapidly increases acidity, significantly slowing plant development. Seedlings need:

• ventilate;
• turn different sides towards the sun;
• feed;
• loosen the soil;
• weed, removing poorly growing specimens.

To encourage peppers to actively grow green foliage, feed them with urea when the first true leaf appears. Make a working solution of 1 teaspoon per 3 liters of water.

The second feeding is carried out 10 days later using any fertilizer containing micronutrients. Prepare the working solution according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

Plants are watered with warm water, and after watering the soil is loosened.

Important: If the windows freeze at night, it is recommended to cover the seedlings with plastic film or non-woven material. This will speed up seedling growth.

Peppers shouldn't be pricked out. If the seeding container chosen has low walls and the root system will be stunted, pricking out should be done when the plants have two true leaves. Many gardeners prick out the seeds when the cotyledons appear, which is also acceptable, but requires great caution.

When the outside temperature reaches 18°C ​​(64°F), the plants are moved outside to sunny, windless weather. For the first three days, the seedling containers are placed on the east side of the house. There, they receive indirect sunlight and thrive. On the fourth day, the pots can be moved to the south side.

In the sun, the soil in pots dries out quickly. Seedlings placed outdoors should be watered either before 12 noon or after 3:00 a.m., when the sun's rays are less intense.

Don't rush into leaving young peppers in the greenhouse overnight. A severe frost will kill the plants. Peppers should be kept under cover overnight a week before planting, covering the seedlings with a heat-retaining material.

Potential problems when growing

Blackleg often attacks seedlings when the first true leaf emerges. The stem near the base softens and darkens, and the plant collapses to the ground as if mown down. This is caused by soil infested with an aggressive fungus. It lives permanently in any soil but becomes active under favorable conditions for its reproduction, such as high humidity, low temperatures, and insufficient sunlight.

To prevent this disease, homemade soil should be warmed until it begins to smoke. Before planting, it is recommended to water the soil with a solution of Fitosporin or the fungicide Skor, which contains difenoconazole.

This is a systemic triazole fungicide classified as hazard class 3. It is used for the preventative and therapeutic treatment of fungal diseases. This fungicide should not be used during flowering.

The fungus will not be able to affect the seedlings if:

• the seeds have undergone pre-planting preparation;
• the soil will be loose;
• watering is moderate and is done only with warm water;
• Daily temperature fluctuations are minimal.

If blackleg is affecting individual plants, preventative measures are necessary. To do this, water the plants with a warm solution of Fitosporin or potassium permanganate at a rate of 3 g per 10 liters of water.

White rot is caused by a different fungus. It develops for the same reasons as blackleg, but on older plants. A white, fluffy coating appears on the main stem and spreads upwards.

To prevent the germination of this fungal spore, avoid placing seedlings outdoors in cold, cloudy weather. If rot occurs, treat the plantings with a solution containing:

• 1 g zinc sulfate;
• 2 g of copper sulfate;
• 10 g urea.

To dissolve this mixture you will need 10 liters of warm water.

It is recommended to remove affected seedlings, collecting the top 3 cm of soil underneath them.

Gray mold affects the leaves of plants ready for planting outdoors. It develops from excess moisture and cold. It appears in plants grown in containers without drainage.

If its signs are present:

• using an awl, make drainage;
• reduce watering;
• loosen the soil;
• The seedlings are sprayed with preparations containing copper.

For this purpose, copper sulfate in a solution made at the rate of 2 g per 10 liters of water or the HOM product prepared according to the instructions is suitable.

Fusarium wilt of peppers can occur on well-developed seedlings with early buds. The disease develops in dense plantings, under-watering, acidic soil, and at temperatures above 28°C.

Moisture and heat can cause bacterial black spot. Temperatures around 30°C and moisture on the leaves are favorable conditions for development.

Aphids and spider mites can infest seedlings. On peppers, they appear from infested soil that wasn't properly warmed. Aphids and spider mites can be washed off with soapy water or treated with Intavir or similar products. Read the instructions before use.

If the seedlings are wilting and there are no signs of fungal infections, the following reasons are possible:

• the roots were damaged during loosening or picking;
• dense soil prevents oxygen access;
• lack of nutrients or light;
• sudden changes in temperature.

To prevent fungal infections in seedlings, use healthy soil and treat the seeds. When choosing pepper varieties, choose those that are disease-resistant.

Reviews

Many experienced gardeners believe it's easier to buy pepper seedlings at the market because growing pepper seedlings requires a lot of attention. Buying ready-made seedlings doesn't always produce the expected harvest. Often, overgrown peppers grown in cramped containers become diseased for a long time and begin to produce fruit only towards the end of the season.

Vegetable growers who took the risk of growing seedlings on their windowsills are delighted with the harvests they receive.

Irina, Moscow Region: Pre-sowing seed treatment helps prevent fungal infections that can contaminate the seed. I soak the seeds for 10 minutes in a solution made of 3 ml of hydrogen peroxide and 100 ml of water, heated to 40°C. My peppers always stand in neat rows, adorned with large fruits.

Olga, Krasnodar: I started adding a little vermiculite to my indoor soil. Peppers love it. Its presence in the soil helps maintain stable moisture and improve oxygen availability to the roots. By the time they're ready to be planted outdoors, the seedlings have at least 12 leaves, and some already have flowers.

Svetlana, Amur Region: Peppers will grow much better if they aren't pricked out, but rather grown in a deep container filled with nutritious soil. To ensure healthy seedlings, I carefully care for them.

Vera, North Caucasus: When the pepper seedlings develop 3-4 true leaves, I transplant them into 0.5-0.7 liter pots. They grow there happily, awaiting transplanting into the garden.

Mikhail, Crimea: Pepper seedlings will grow well without fertilizer if they are planted in nutritious soil and provided with warmth and light for at least 12 hours a day.