What flowers can be sown before winter: names, timing, pros and cons

Not every gardener dares to plant flowers in their garden before winter. However, those who have already tried it know for sure that it's beneficial and convenient. One reason is good soil moisture, which significantly reduces watering and maintenance after planting. It's also worth considering that late autumn is significantly less busy in the garden, making it the perfect time to pay attention to flowerbeds and flower gardens so you can enjoy the first blooms on the first warm days. In October and November, you can plant both perennials and annuals; it's best to choose varieties that are more frost-resistant or require stratification.

Pros and cons of winter sowing

Winter sowing has many advantages, although it's important to be aware of the disadvantages before planting to be prepared for any unexpected surprises. There are several advantages that encourage gardeners to sow flowers before winter:

1. If you don't plant your seedlings in the ground in the fall, when the weather warms up, you'll have to prepare the soil, fertilize, water, and wait for above-zero temperatures to prevent frost damage to the seedlings. Besides flowers, gardeners spend a lot of time tending to vegetables, shrubs, and trees, all of which require care, so it's easy to miss out on beautiful flowerbeds.
2. Seeds that overwinter in the ground become more hardened, so some varieties can withstand spring cold snaps without loss. Many crops require stratification, so it's easier to plant them in the ground than to keep them in a refrigerator all winter, artificially maintaining "natural" conditions.
3. When sowing in the fall, you won't have to grow seedlings on windowsills and then plant them in the ground (there are some amateurs who don't find this difficult, but others would be happy to skip this process).
4. Early seedlings. Sometimes this is 2-3 weeks earlier than spring plantings. And when the warm weather is just beginning, and everyone is tired of the cold, damp, and gray, a bright flowerbed will be a wonderful source of joy and good cheer.

The disadvantages include:

• the likelihood of germination in the event of sudden warming in the fall or winter with positive temperatures (if the seeds manage to germinate, they will die when the weather gets colder);
• not all of the seed material will sprout, so you will have to sow 20-30% more than in the spring;
• Some perennials bloom only in the second year.

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What flowers can be sown before winter?

From late August until early December, you can plant seeds, bulbs, or transplant bushes. These can be annual or perennial varieties, as long as they can tolerate cold. Bulb lovers should prepare well in advance, selecting and drying the strongest bulbs. Before planting, it's important to properly prepare the soil, consider the flowerbed layout, and choose the optimal time to prevent seeds from being lost due to early planting. It's best to plant bushes quickly; they need time to establish roots, so September is ideal. For most seeds, October is the best time. Bulbous plants are a different matter; for example, muscari can be planted in the ground as early as late August. Winter sowing of asters is done in late October or early November.

The optimal time to sow seeds is when the temperature remains below freezing, day or night. In some regions, this occurs as early as mid-November, while in southern regions, it may reach December. It's important to consider climate conditions to prevent seedlings from appearing during a warm spell if they are planted too early. If the beds are prepared in advance, seeds can be sown in December or even January. If the soil is already frozen, use either a nursery or pre-prepared containers and beds for sowing.

Autumn sowing of annuals

Annual crops must be planted in frozen soil, otherwise they may germinate and die when cold weather sets in. Seeds are placed in pre-prepared furrows and covered with substrate, leaves, and peat. After seedlings emerge, they must be thinned out.

You can sow in the snow in December or January, when the snow cover is at least 25 cm. In this case, you don't need to make furrows; simply toss the seeds into the snow. To prevent them from being blown away by the wind, eaten by birds, or frozen, trample the snow, lay a layer of potting soil or peat on top, and then sprinkle with snow. The soil should be prepared in advance—dug and fertilized while it's still warm.

Annual varieties aren't often sown before winter, as they germinate well in spring and bloom profusely right away. If you're choosing varieties that germinate well in spring, consider cornflowers, marigolds, sweet tobacco, matthiola, chrysanthemums, annual asters, scabiosa, poppies, and mignonette. To promote earlier flowering, after the snow melts, install trellises and stretch plastic over them to speed up germination. It's best to choose a permanent location immediately; annuals don't need to be replanted. You can also sow the following in flower beds before winter:

• agrostemma;
• Adonis;
• godetia;
• kochia;
• dimorphotheca;
• Nigella damascena;
• lavateru;
• Sea alyssum;
• Chinese carnation;
• cosmos;
• Clarkia marigold;
• Antirrhinum;
• Malcolmia maritima;
• Phlox Drumondii;
• Eschscholzia.

Autumn sowing of perennials

Of the perennials, bulbous plants should be planted first. Some small bulbs dry out over the winter and are no longer suitable for sowing by spring. If you don't manage to plant them in time, you can force them or arrange for suitable storage conditions until spring.

Perennial shrubs with closed root systems take root better in the fall; they can withstand frost if covered. Open root systems require more time to adapt, so it's best to plant them earlier. In some cases, it's better to bury the seedlings, covering them with plastic or branches, so you can determine their permanent location in the spring.

Once the snow melts, it's best to cover the beds with plastic to speed growth and protect from birds, spring rains, and sudden night frosts. When seedlings emerge, remove the plastic and transplant the shoots after 15 days, depending on the variety.

The following perennials are planted in autumn:

• Arabis;
• gaillardia;
• Doronicum;
• aubrieta;
• lavender;
• aconite;
• Ligularia;
• heuchera;
• dicentra;
• rudbeckia;
• daisy;
• columbine;
• primrose;
• Doronicum;
• spurge;
• yarrow.

How to sow seeds before winter

In addition to the traditional method of planting in open ground, there are two other options: in a nursery or in containers. The choice depends on the climate, timing, variety, and flowerbed readiness. Some garden plots lack adequate space for winter sowing. This typically occurs in areas with gentle slopes that collect meltwater in the spring. If the snow cover is deep, these streams will wash away the immature seeds, ruining all efforts.

Into open ground

Flowers for winter sowing that don't transplant well are best planted directly into the ground. This is especially true for plants with taproots. These include magnolias, star anise, California poppy, purple sarracenia, wild begonia, sea thrift, oleander, morning glory, lavender, Tuscan bellflower, calendula, European aster, Korean chrysanthemum, and dahlia.

It's best to plant seedlings with roots in warm weather to allow the roots to establish, but sow seeds in frozen ground to prevent premature germination. Be sure to cover them with a layer of humus, peat, or topsoil, which is removed a little earlier and stored in a warm place until planting. Plant the bulbs about twice their length deep; don't sow the seeds too deeply, otherwise they will take a long time to germinate in the spring.

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It's best to prepare the flowerbed in advance—in spring or summer. Dig the area and fertilize with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Avoid adding nitrogen supplements, which stimulate vigor and promote rapid growth. Winter planting doesn't result in seedlings emerging before spring.

Sowing seeds in a nursery

A "shkolka" (school) is a separate small bed for seedlings, growing cuttings, and supporting plants with different germination times and conditions. A south-facing, elevated plot is best. A height of 20 cm allows the soil to warm up more quickly and prevents the seeds from being washed away by meltwater when the snow melts. Soil preparation begins in mid-September: fertilizing, loosening, and, if necessary, adding river sand, humus, and crushed stone. The top layer is leveled, compacted, and indented depending on the size of the seed. The larger the seeds or bulbs, the deeper the furrows are made, typically no deeper than 4 cm. After this, the bed is covered with plastic to prevent snow from disturbing the structure of the bed, allowing for planting even under the snow.

By the end of October, you can begin sowing. Remove the plastic wrap and place several seeds at a time in the holes, just in case some don't germinate. Place a few more small seeds, while 2-3 large ones are sufficient, depending on the variety and size. Cover with a soil mixture, prepared in advance and kept in a warm place. For this, mix humus, peat, and sand. You can also add fallen leaves and dry grass for insulation. Fall sowing doesn't require watering, otherwise the plants will begin to develop prematurely.

After the snow melts, remove the top layer of mulch and wait for the seedlings to emerge. As soon as strong shoots with two leaves appear, you can thin out the planting if the seedlings are abundant. After 14 days, you can repeat the process if the seedlings are interfering with each other.

Sowing seeds in containers

Pots of various diameters, ranging from 7 to 10 cm, with drainage holes are most often used as containers. They should not deform or bend easily, as this can damage the roots.

It's best to use a loose substrate that won't allow moisture and air to pass through, but will still allow small roots to germinate. To do this, mix peat, sand, and soil in a 3:3:1 ratio. Moisten the mixture slightly before adding the seeds.

Place a 2-cm layer of drainage material—expanded clay, small brick fragments, and small stones—at the bottom. Then add the prepared mixture, leaving about 1.5-2 cm of space at the top, and compact it. Plant the seeds and water.

Place the prepared containers with seedlings in a well-lit, wind-protected area on the plot. They are placed in 30-cm-deep holes with drainage at the bottom. The edges should neither protrude nor recede too much. Place dry grass and leaves between the pots and cover with mulch.

Once the snow has completely melted, the top layer of cover is removed, and the seedlings are thinned out after emergence. Plants are moved into flowerbeds only by the end of May or beginning of June, depending on the climate.

What is important to do in spring

In spring, the soil should be moistened to prevent the seeds from drying out. The less snow there was, the more watering will be needed. After the snow melts, cover the beds with plastic or stretch them over arches. This will speed up germination and protect them from wind, birds, and cold.

Once the seedlings emerge, remove the covering, thin them out, and replant if necessary. If some seeds fail to germinate, sow additional seeds to avoid empty spots or excessively wide spaces between plants. Every 15 days, check the density of the shoots, removing any excess, taking into account the stem size and spacing between flowers. When using nurseries or containers, transplant the grown seedlings to their permanent location once they have strengthened and the weather warms.

A place for winter sowing of flowers

It's crucial to choose a good location for your flowers so that adverse factors have minimal impact on germination and development. Meltwater, strong winds, and scorching sun can all interfere with germination, so based on the variety you've chosen, you should choose a site with the best location, taking all possible obstacles into account.

Soils that are too acidic or clayey become very compacted over the winter, preventing seedlings from breaking through the dense topsoil in the spring. To remedy this, add sand, crushed stone, or peat in the fall and loosen the soil to loosen it slightly. Fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus are recommended. The mulch and topsoil should be kept in a warm place to prevent them from freezing when planting.

Preparing a bed for winter sowing of flowers

Fall-sown crops are best planted in areas not previously worked in the spring. Before sowing, thoroughly remove any remaining weeds to prevent them from sprouting and interfering with the young shoots. Compost should not be added, as it may contain the remains of unrotted roots of harmful plants. Level the soil, making furrows or holes 1-1.5 cm deep. Stake markers with the sowing date and variety name can be placed along the sides of the rows. It's best to plant them in advance, as they won't be able to be inserted into the frozen ground.

You can install arches over which you stretch plastic film or lay a piece of linoleum. This will come in handy both before planting, if snow falls early, and in the spring, in case of early frosts.

Soil for winter sowing of flowers

Ideally, use a ready-made gardening mix, tailored to the varieties you'll be growing there. If this isn't possible, or the soil on your property is suitable, collect the top layer in a bag ahead of time and store it in a shed or house to prevent it from freezing. It's sufficient to use it only as a topsoil; even if the ground is frozen, the seeds are scattered on top and then covered with a warm, prepared substrate.

Conclusion

For fall sowing, it's important to carefully select your crops to avoid wasting time and being disappointed in the spring when your flowerbed remains empty and unbloomed. It's best to choose seeds that are cold-tolerant or require stratification. It's also worth planting varieties with a short shelf life; if they're stored for too long, their germination rate will be significantly reduced. Before planting, you should check all your supplies to ensure you don't forget any that have been stored for several seasons. These are also best sown before winter, so you can add fresh ones in the spring if they fail to germinate.

Some varieties perennials They will bloom only in the second year. This should be taken into account before sowing and when choosing a location to avoid wasted space in a flowerbed or rock garden. These plants are planted either separately or with others that will bloom at the same time.

Planting can be done even later than expected—the main thing is to ensure that temperatures don't warm up in the days immediately after planting. Prepare the beds in advance, leaving the top layer of soil and mulch in a warm spot. Place slightly more seeds in the holes than in spring, in case some don't survive the cold.