How to grow a codiaeum or croton at home and basic care guidelines

Codiaeum or croton are two names for the same popular ornamental foliage plant. It is prized for the vibrant color of its thick, fleshy leaves. Caring for this plant is challenging, and it is considered a demanding plant. Without knowledge of its growing conditions, maintaining it indoors can be challenging. Therefore, before purchasing a variegated shrub to decorate your home, it's worth exploring all the nuances: from lighting and temperature to propagation methods.

Brief description of the plant

In the wild, croton is a large, spreading shrub, reaching 3 meters in height. When grown in a pot, its dimensions are more modest: rarely exceeding 1.5 meters, even with meticulous care. The plant looks beautiful; from a distance, one might mistake it for an artificial plant. According to the general classification, croton is classified as an ornamental foliage plant.

Due to its decorative qualities, it is used to decorate large spaces such as halls, lobbies, vestibules, and offices. Its leaves are exceptionally beautiful, sometimes with yellow spots and multicolored veins, the intensity of which depends on the lighting. The evergreen plant resembles a small, neat tree, but shaping its dense crown is challenging: it takes several years to achieve this. Regular pruning is essential to keep the croton looking neat.

In the wild, the plant blooms, but its buds have no ornamental value. When growing codiaeum indoors, care instructions require removing the flower stalks. This is because unsightly blooms only drain the plant's energy and hinder its development.

Common varieties

There are natural varieties of variegated codiaeum and artificially bred cultivars. The latter are the result of selective breeding of individual species. They are popular among gardeners due to their relative ease of care and small size, making them suitable for growing indoors on a windowsill or in a container. Popular cultivars include:

1. Croton 'Mrs. Iceton.' The leaves are densely growing, arranged transversely along the entire length of the trunk. Young leaves are a soft light green, while mature leaves take on a variety of colors: brown, burgundy, yellow, and dark green. The stripes are seamless, appearing as if painted with watercolors.
2. The 'Sunny Star' variety. As it grows, it forms a neat, lush bush, readily producing side shoots even without pruning the main trunk. The leaves are leathery, with rounded edges, and range in color from light green, lemon, to deep yellow. Reddish spots develop on mature leaves.
3. Croton 'Zanzibar'. A rare variety with narrow, lanceolate, curved leaves. Its coloring is a blend of all shades of green, yellow, burgundy, and purple, with red central veins. Its beauty is maximized with good lighting.
4. Codiaeum 'Tamara'. A distinctive feature is the unusual leaf coloration for crotons. They are green with a white margin. The blade is pointed, and the leaves are densely packed on the stem. A drawback of this variety is its slow growth; with proper care, it only grows 5-7 cm per year.
5. Croton 'Gold Sun'. Elliptical leaves, green background with yellow spots. Specimens grow up to 50 cm tall. The trunk is massive and easily trained into a standard.
6. 'Petra' cultivar. A popular variety with lobed leaves. The tree forms a well-shaped crown and grows quickly. The veins and edges of the leaves have a yellow tint, while the rest of the leaf blade is rich green, burgundy, and red. In low sunlight, the leaves turn green with white veins. High-quality lighting will help restore the natural appearance.
7. Codiaeum 'Excellent'. This variety's distinctive feature is its leaves. They are shaped like an oak tree, hence the nickname "oak-leaved." Young leaves are yellow or green, but their beauty emerges later. They turn purple, burgundy, and deep red.

All of the listed varieties belong to the same genus, but differ significantly in leaf structure, growth rate, and crown formation. If you compare two different varieties with lanceolate and lobed leaves, it will be difficult to find similarities between them. The only unifying factor is the multicolored coloration and the presence of a characteristic, pronounced midrib.

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Peculiarities of home care

The initial condition of a plant when purchased at the store determines its subsequent growth, so when choosing a plant, pay attention to its appearance. The leaves should be bright, firm, and glossy. The stem should be free of dents or pits from fallen petioles. You should also inspect the undersides of the leaves for pests. Any discrepancies in these parameters should prompt a change of plant to avoid the hassle of reviving it later.

Lighting

Crotons are recommended to be placed on well-lit windowsills. They can be placed on west- and east-facing windowsills. South-facing windowsills should be provided with shade in the summer, otherwise the leaves may burn. North-facing windowsills are not suitable for growing crotons, as their color will fade.

Large, mature specimens can be placed in tubs no more than 1 meter from the light source. This will slow their growth, and the color of the leaves should not fade, provided regular fertilization is applied. Artificial light sources are acceptable: young plants should receive supplemental lighting for at least 14 hours a day, and mature plants should receive 10-12 hours.

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Temperature conditions

Croton is sensitive to low temperatures. During the active growth period, temperatures should not drop below 20°C. This tropical plant tolerates higher temperatures, up to 26-27°C, but regular watering is essential. A short-term drop to 16°C is acceptable: the plant will slow down but not die. The critical temperature for croton is below 10-12°C; under these conditions, it will shed its leaves.

Watering and spraying

Water the plant with soft, settled water as the soil dries out. Overwatering is harmful to the croton, and drying out can cause the leaves to lose their turgor. Croton responds well to misting and warm showers, which should be done according to a specific procedure:

• the vase is placed in the bath and the water is adjusted so that the temperature is comfortable for the skin, without scalding it (up to 37 degrees);
• the soil is covered with plastic film or a bag;
• wash the plant from all sides for 5 minutes;
• leave in the bathroom until the water from the leaves evaporates.

The procedure is repeated once every 2 weeks.

Landing

The plant is very slow to take up space, so it shouldn't be given a large volume of soil. For a croton about 30-40 cm tall, a 1.0-1.2 liter pot is suitable. Care should be taken when choosing the right soil: it should be moisture- and air-permeable to ensure adequate aeration of the root system. Drainage holes should be made in the bottom of the pot, and a layer of fine and coarse expanded clay should be laid down to a total thickness of 2 cm.

You can use regular store-bought soil for ornamental foliage plants, but it should be nutritious. You can also create your own soil using garden soil and leaf mold in a 1:1 ratio. Additionally, add perlite, sand, and peat to ensure proper moisture permeability.

It's best to repot a new plant immediately after purchase into fresh soil. Change the soil annually for young plants, and for mature plants, as the pot becomes crowded. Large container-grown plants should be fully repotted approximately once every 3-5 years. To ensure adequate nutrition, fertilize regularly and change the top layer of the substrate once a year.

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Top dressing

A flower with colorful leaves requires regular application of mineral fertilizers. The plant requires them even during its dormant period in winter, but in smaller doses. From March to October, apply nutrient mixtures at the doses specified in the instructions once every 10 days. In winter, reduce the dose to half the recommended dose, applying through watering. Using nitrogen-containing fertilizers will enhance the coloration of the leaves, despite low light and lower temperatures. Timely application of mineral components will help the plant survive the winter without losing its decorative appearance. Foliar feeding is also recommended.

Shaping and pruning

To create a beautiful, dense crown, the plant is pinched periodically. The first time, this should be done at a height of 15-30 cm. This procedure encourages the croton to produce lateral branches, becoming bushy and less tall. This procedure is then repeated when the plant reaches 20 cm.

To form a standard tree, pinching is done differently. The plant is allowed to grow to the desired height—60-80 cm. Then, branches are gradually removed from the lower part of the trunk (these can be used for propagation). The crown is pinched to promote crown growth. Each emerging branch is also shortened. Transforming a young bush into a standard should be done in the summer, when daylight hours are at their longest.

Winter care

After the cold weather sets in and daylight hours shorten, the croton should be moved to the sunniest spot. The plant doesn't have a pronounced dormancy period, so it retains its beauty year-round, but growth may slow slightly. During winter, mist regularly; the optimal humidity is around 50%. If this level is ignored, the leaf edges will begin to dry out. You can place the pot on a tray filled with expanded clay and moisten it regularly. Water as the top layer dries; excess moisture can cause root rot.

Popular breeding methods

Croton propagation is accomplished by seed and cuttings. The former is difficult because the seeds are difficult to germinate, and the plant itself grows very slowly. Croton is most often propagated by cuttings. To do this, a 10-15 cm long shoot, including leaves, is cut from a healthy adult plant.

Prepared cuttings are immediately planted in a substrate (a mixture of perlite and peat can be used) or placed in water with activated carbon to develop the root system. In the latter case, rooting is slower, and the planting material itself can die from rot, so experienced gardeners use soil. Rooting is slow, so rooting stimulants are often used. The process takes 1 to 3 months.

Diseases and pests of crops

Croton is rarely attacked by pests because it belongs to the Euphorbia genus, all members of which are poisonous. Most often, problems are related to diseases and are caused by improper care and maintenance. The following problems can arise during cultivation:

1. Anthracnose is a serious fungal disease that appears when plants are overwatered. It is characterized by the formation of red or gray spots on the underside of leaves. The fungus spreads throughout the plant's cells, causing death. Antifungal agents are used to control the disease. It is also necessary to remove any rot from the root system.
2. Drying of leaf tips. This is due to inadequate humidity and watering. It's impossible to restore the condition of old leaves, but the indicators need to be brought back to normal. If the plant has been severely damaged, re-rooting is necessary.
3. Brown spots on the outer surface of the plate. These are sunburns that occur when the plant is placed on south-facing windowsills in the summer without shade.
4. Crown shrinkage. Occurs at low temperatures. This causes the plant to stop growing and developing.
5. Root rot. Leaves become soft and fall from the trunk. The bush can be saved by promptly treating it with broad-spectrum fungicides.

The croton houseplant looks spectacular when properly cared for. If basic care guidelines aren't followed, the plant loses its decorative appeal. Insufficient light causes the variegation to fade, and the leaves become dull. Failure to maintain proper temperature and regular watering can even lead to its death.