This beautiful flowering plant, reminiscent of petunias with its luxurious blooms, is undeservedly unpopular with gardeners. This herbaceous perennial, grown as an annual in our country, can truly enhance any flowerbed. For the earliest flowering, we'll sow it indoors to produce seedlings and then transplant them outdoors as soon as warm weather arrives.
To ensure the crop's successful development, all work with it, starting with planting, should be carried out in accordance with the recommendations of the lunar calendar for the current year 2024. You should also consider the chosen variety, and, of course, the climate conditions in your region and the weather forecast for the near future.
Description of the plant
Nasturtium, or capuchin, is a herbaceous annual or perennial plant in the Nasturtium family. Most species are vines with thick, succulent shoots. Subshrub forms are less common. Large, shield-shaped, lobed, or palmately divided leaves are borne alternately on thick petioles.
The strongly fragrant flowers are single, double, or semi-double. They consist of five or more petals. They are surrounded by sepals and a funnel-shaped tube containing nectar. The flowers are usually yellow or red, but breeders have developed many new varieties with different petal colors.
Nasturtium leaves and flowers are edible and have medicinal properties. They are added to salads, used in main courses, and as a garnish. When added to cheeses, butters, and sauces, the flowers impart a piquant flavor. When pickled, the fruits resemble capers, and the ground seeds can be used as a substitute for pepper.
Sowing dates
Nasturtiums can be planted directly into the ground when the average daily temperature rises above 8°C. In most regions of the central zone, this is possible in late May.
To get flowers in early summer, capuchin plants are grown from seedlings. Then, with the arrival of warmer weather, the mature bushes will grow into the ground and begin blooming within a few weeks.
According to the lunar calendar
Many gardeners plan all their gardening work according to the phases of the moon. The best time to plant is during the waxing moon. At this time, sap rises upward, and the above-ground parts of plants develop more actively. Seeds germinate quickly, and seedlings grow strong. This phase is also the time to transplant seedlings and transplant them to their permanent locations.
During the waning moon, plant sap moves more actively downward, toward the root system. This period is not suitable for planting, but is suitable for root feeding. Fertilizers applied during this period are almost completely absorbed. The waning moon is suitable for pruning stems and wilted leaves.
Due to the slower sap flow, the plant tolerates them better.
| Month | Favorable days | Unfavorable days |
| February | 12-22 | 9-11, 23-25 |
| March | 12-23 | 9-11, 24-26 |
| April | 10-22 | 7-9, 23-25 |
| May | 10-21 | 7-9, 22-24 |
The remaining dates are neutral.
By region
The sowing time depends on the cultivation method used for capuchin plants and the regional climate. From seed germination to the appearance of the first flowers, it takes between 1.5 and 2 months. Young seedlings cannot withstand even a slight cold snap, let alone a severe frost.
To ensure flowering as early as June, sow seeds for seedlings no later than April. If the flowers are to be grown on a balcony in containers or planters, sowing is possible as early as March. Only in this case, grow nasturtiums in a bright, heated room.
Deadlines by region:
- In the warm southern part of the country, this is done from late February through March. They are transplanted outdoors in May.
- In the Moscow region and other regions of Central Russia, this period lasts from mid-April to early May. By early June, the mature bushes can be transplanted to their permanent location.
- In the Northwest, the Urals, Siberia, and other cold climates, seeds are sown in the first half of May. Seedlings are transplanted outdoors in the second ten days of June, once the threat of frost has passed.
The main process
Capuchin seeds are large, containing 10-30 seeds per gram. Germination is average, no more than 75%, and lasts for 4-5 years. Initially, the seeds are green and grow in clusters of three. As they ripen, their color changes to white. When fully ripe, they fall off easily. Therefore, if necessary, they are harvested unripe.
Seeds preserve well in the soil and can survive frost. To improve germination, they are pre-soaked for 24 hours in hot water or a germination stimulant solution. This softens the hard seed coat, allowing seedlings to emerge more quickly and uniformly. This technique has been used for decades.
Soil preparation
The plant's root system is very fragile. It's best not to grow seedlings in regular containers. A more convenient option is peat pellets or cups, individual plastic containers, or cassettes with removable bottoms.
If it is not possible to use peat tablets or vermicompost, the soil mixture for filling the containers is prepared from the following components:
- 1 part turf soil;
- 1 part peat;
- 1 part river sand.
Before filling the containers with soil, soak it in a hot solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect it. For the same purpose, the soil can be frozen or heated in the oven.
Sowing
To grow seedlings in peat pellets or vermicompost, first soak them in hot water, placing them in a deep plastic container. Once they've expanded and no longer absorb any liquid, drain the remaining liquid. Place 2-3 seeds in the hole in the center, burying them 3 cm deep.
For traditional planting, a seedling container with holes in the bottom is filled with prepared soil. The surface is leveled and moistened with water from a spray bottle. Cardboard dividers are then installed to prevent the root system from becoming tangled during transplanting. Two seeds are planted in the center of each resulting cell, 2 cm deep.
To save space, simplify subsequent care and replanting, and speed up germination, plant in sawdust from deciduous trees. Conifers are not used because they contain a lot of resin. The sawdust is soaked in hot water, and the seeds are buried 1 cm deep. Seedlings appear in 5-6 days.
Caring for seedlings
Immediately after sowing, cover the containers with plastic wrap and leave them on a well-lit windowsill at a temperature of 20°C to 22°C. Until the seedlings emerge, open the cover daily for ventilation and watering.
If water drops appear on the inside of the film, carefully wipe them away to prevent moisture from getting on the soil. Moisten the soil moderately, avoiding overwatering. It's best to do this with a spray bottle.
When seedlings emerge, the containers are moved to a south- or southwest-facing windowsill. For good growth, seedlings require continuous light for 12-14 hours. To prevent shoots from becoming leggy, supplemental lighting is provided.
Plants are watered sparingly, avoiding moisture on the sprouts. Warm water is used for irrigation, applied from a syringe to the roots of the plants. The air temperature is reduced to 18-20°C. This will prevent the plants from stretching.
Transplantation to a permanent location
The seedlings are transplanted to their permanent location once warm, summer weather has fully set in. Choose a well-lit area for the flowerbed, sheltered from drafts and cold winds. Nasturtiums thrive in fertile, slightly acidic soil. The soil should be loose and light.
Seedlings are ready for transplanting when the shoots are at least 7 cm long. To ensure adequate space, planting holes are spaced 20 cm apart. The planting holes should be slightly larger than the diameter of the seedling cups. When transplanting, avoid disturbing the root ball to minimize damage to the root system.
To help nasturtiums adapt to the new conditions more quickly, provide shade from the scorching sun during the first few days during the hottest part of the day. Water the plants regularly to keep the soil consistently moist. Use warm water for moisture. To prevent fungal diseases, water the soil with a solution of Fitosporin-M once or twice every 10 days.
Possible problems
Nasturtium seeds don't always germinate. One possible reason for this lack of germination could be poor seed quality due to expired seeds or inadequate drying.
Planting seeds too deeply also slows germination. Sometimes problems arise when seedlings are planted in unheated soil. Young shoots are killed by sudden cold snaps or overnight frosts.
After transplanting to a permanent location, plant growth is stunted due to placement in an unsuitable location—in a drafty area or in the shade. Poor, heavy soil inhibits root development.
The plant won't bloom in such soil. This condition is also caused by a lack of fertilizer and improper watering. Excess water in the soil inhibits root development and promotes rot.