Celery can be grown in both a greenhouse and an open-air garden. And when you want to enjoy the fragrant greens all year round, you can sow the seeds in boxes on the windowsill. All parts of this plant, from the Apiaceae family, are edible—the root, stems, and leaves—and are used to decorate dishes, as a garnish, and as a spice.
The list of favorable planting days, published by our experts below, will help you grow a worthy harvest. At the same time, consider weather conditions and the variety of garden crop. Also, pay attention to your region and the weather forecast for the near future; relying on the lunar calendar alone isn't enough.
Types
For seedlings celery root The row or strip method is used. In the first method, seedlings are planted at a distance of 20-30 cm with a row spacing of 50-60 cm. In the second method, the distance between plants is 20 cm and the row spacing is 50 cm. Petiolate and leafy varieties grow significantly, so a 40x50 cm pattern is used for them.
They can be grown from seedlings or sown in open ground. The latter method is preferred by gardeners in the southern regions.
To obtain tender petioles, they are bleached by wrapping them in thick paper and straw 15-20 days before cutting. Hilling can also be done after each watering, but this will develop an unpleasant earthy taste.
In regions with a variable and cool climate, such as the Urals, Siberia, and the Leningrad Region, the best time to plant seedlings is mid-March. In the Moscow Region and central Russia, it's the second half of February and early March, and in the south, it's early February.
Lunar phases
Usually gardeners follow the rules:
- new moon and full moon are unfavorable times for gardening;
- the waxing moon is favorable for the ripening of the green above-ground part;
- decreasing - for underground.
Accordingly, the time should be chosen based on the variety. Astrologers have identified the most favorable days for each variety.
For petiolate and leaf:
- January 13-23;
- February 12-22;
- March 12-23;
- April 10-22;
- May 10-21;
- June 8-20.
For the root:
- January 1-9, 27-31;
- 1-8, 26-29 February;
- March 1-8, 27-31;
- April 1-6, 26-30;
- May 1-6, 25-31;
- June 1-4, 24-30.
Unfavorable days:
- January - 10-12, 24-26;
- February - 9-11, 23-25;
- March — 9-11, 24-26;
- April — 7-9, 23-25;
- May — 7-9, 22-24;
- June - 5-7, 21-23.
The rest of the dates are neutral!
Agricultural technology for growing celery
The most undemanding are leafy varieties. They can be sown directly into open ground. However, petiole and root varieties won't have time to ripen if you don't take care of the seedlings in advance.
Regardless of the type of garden crop, transplant it to open ground when there's no longer any risk of recurrent frost and the soil has warmed to a depth of 12-14 cm, reaching 12-14°C. Root and petiole varieties grow the slowest.
Root
The shelf life of seeds is no more than 2 years. Before planting, soak them in water at 18-22°C and dry slightly. The soil mixture is made up of equal parts turf, sand, humus, and peat, or 1 part perlite, 2 parts compost, 4 parts coconut coir, and 20 parts peat. Fill the boxes with soil, form furrows 5-7 mm deep, add the seeds, cover with a 3 mm layer, and moisten.
Leave the containers under plastic or glass until the first shoots appear. If you sowed in late February, the first permanent leaves will appear by mid-March. You can fertilize them with ash or a complex mineral fertilizer containing boron. No pricking is required; transplant the seedlings when transplanting them to open ground.
Planting takes place in mid- to late May, when the soil has warmed up sufficiently. It's best to prepare the plot in the fall: dig, fertilize, and provide good light. If there's not enough sun, the roots won't form, and the stems will bolt. Make the holes deep enough so that after planting the seedlings (see diagram above), the growing tip remains above the surface.
Before removing the sprouts from the container, water the soil, trim the leaves by 1/4 to 1/3, shorten the root shoots, and dip them in a clay slurry. Plant them, water them again, and cover them with peat or compost. If some plants don't take root, replace them with fresh ones after 7-10 days.
Root celery doesn't require hilling. Weed, water, and loosen the topsoil after heavy rains. Fertilize in the second week after transplanting, and again 21 days later with a mineral complex containing potassium and phosphorus salts. Trim the marginal leaves, leaving 4-6 in the center to encourage large root development.
To form the root crop, in late July or early August, dig up the soil around the main stem, expose the top of the developing rhizome, and trim off the thin upper roots. Do not cover with soil.
Petiolate
Seedlings are grown using the same principles as the rootstock. Patience is required—the sprouts emerge slowly, typically 20-30 days after sowing. Transplanting to open ground is only possible once the average daily temperature has not dropped below 15°C. The difference lies in the timing of fertilizing. The first feeding is done immediately after transplanting to open ground, using organic matter or herbal infusions (preferably nettle).
Care is simple: regular watering, mulching, creating a trench around the perimeter to drain excess moisture after heavy rains, and weeding. Proper watering is crucial. Insufficient moisture will cause the petioles to become stiff, while excess moisture will cause the roots to rot. Apply liquid fertilizer every 10 days. Non-self-bleaching varieties require deep earthing up every three weeks.
Early-ripening varieties are best planted directly in the ground. They are covered with plastic wrap, like seedlings, until they become established. Harvesting begins in 120-150 days, with cuttings taken up to twice a season (three times in warmer regions). Fertilize with mineral fertilizer after each pruning.
Sheet
This is the most low-maintenance garden crop with the highest yield. It is often planted directly in prepared plots, but seedlings can be grown. To increase germination, it is best to soak the seeds in melted water. Then, the seeds are planted in shallow holes and covered with plastic wrap to create a greenhouse effect.
Seedlings emerge in 12-15 days. Immediately after this, the room temperature is reduced from 22 to 15°C, but the film is not removed. Ventilate the room for 2-3 hours per day, avoiding drafts. Then, thin out the plants so that there is at least a 5 cm gap between them.
Seedlings are transferred to open ground when the average daily temperature does not drop below 10°C, and daytime temperatures remain at 18-21°C. If it's colder, the bushes will not form, but the stems will begin to grow. Before transplanting, harden off the seedlings for 3-4 days by placing them outside on a balcony or opening a window.
The frequency of fertilizing depends on the soil quality. You can use the same method as petiolate varieties, but unlike these varieties, they are fertilized with minerals, for example: 20 g of potassium salt, 45 g of superphosphate, and 15 g of ammonium sulfate are diluted in 10 liters of water. Additionally, dilute bird droppings at a ratio of 1:50.
Unlike root or petiole soil, leaf soil is not loosened after watering. The topsoil creates optimal conditions for the transfer of nutrients to the above-ground portions. Regardless of the garden crop variety, it is essential to protect against slugs—the plant's main enemy.
After fertilizing, leafy and petiolate varieties should be watered generously, washing away any fertilizer drips from the green parts; otherwise, the taste will be reduced. When sowing and transplanting seedlings outdoors, consider not only favorable days of the lunar cycle and weather conditions, but also the right time of day.
Celery sprouts take root better if they are transplanted into the ground in the morning on a cloudy day. Working on a bright sunny day or at dusk stresses celery. The best location for the plot is near broccoli and cauliflower, cucumbers, beets, carrots, radishes, spinach, and onions. Avoid placing it near nightshades, fennel, and corn.