Planting pumpkin seeds for seedlings - from timing to transplanting into the ground

Pumpkin is the fruit of an annual vine used for food and medicinal purposes. It contains a rich complex of vitamins and minerals and can be used in dishes that can be included in daily and restaurant menus, as well as in diets for various ailments.

It is not surprising that breeders are developing more and more new varieties that make it possible to grow vegetables even in regions with cold climates.

To reap a rewarding harvest, you need to not only know the best days to plant pumpkins, but also select varieties that are suitable for specific weather conditions and follow proper agricultural practices.

How to calculate planting days

In the southern regions, garden crops are planted directly into open ground.

In central Russia, if forecasters predict a cool summer, preference is given to the seedling method or limited to planting early-ripening varieties with a short shelf life (no more than 2 months).

To enjoy the fruits of your labor all winter, grow long-lasting varieties that are resilient to weather fluctuations and highly productive. Seeds for seedlings are sown:

• in central Russia and the Moscow region - in early April;
• in the Volga region, Bashkortostan - mid-April;
• in the Urals and Siberia - from the end of April to mid-May.

The Leningrad Region experiences changeable weather, high humidity, and gusty winds. Therefore, when planting, it's best to focus on cooler regions.

If the packaging of seeds purchased from breeders contains growing dates, then before planting your own seeds, you need to conduct an "experiment" - germinate several pieces and make calculations based on this data.

Favorable days in 2024:

During these same days, key agricultural activities are carried out—watering, fertilizing, and replanting. But if you don't have time to do gardening during these times, don't worry. Choose neutral dates (all other dates).

The most unfavorable days are:

• January: 10-12, 24-26.
• February: 9-11, 23-25.
• March: 9-11, 24-26.
• April: 7-9, 23-25.
• May: 7-9, 22-24.
• June: 5-7, 21-23.

The best varieties

Early-ripening varieties of garden crops are suitable for both seedling cultivation and sowing. Pumpkin varieties are classified in various ways, including early and late-ripening, sweet, and bush varieties. When cultivating, fruit size, productivity, ripening time, and frost resistance are all considered.

The most popular varieties are the thick-skinned pumpkin, most often found in gardens; the large-fruited, sweet pumpkin, which can last all winter; and the butternut squash, which is planted outdoors only in southern regions. Any temperature fluctuations kill the plant.

Breeders have developed numerous varieties based on these species. Pumpkins should not be planted near potatoes, as this increases the risk of disease and pest infestations.

Early

In central Russia and the Moscow region, the following are grown in open ground:

1. Healing - ripens in 3 months, climate-resistant, with a spherical fruit.
2. Volzhskaya Gray is best grown from seedlings and is resistant to diseases and pests. The skin is olive green and the shape is a slightly flattened sphere.
3. Medicinal - thin-skinned, ribbed, bright orange, with a pronounced aroma.
4. Candied fruit – large orange "berries" weighing up to 5 kg. High yield.

All varieties are sweet, but their shelf life is limited. The exception is Volzhskaya, which retains its nutritional value at temperatures of 12-15°C for six months.

Late

Grown from seedlings, ripen in September-November:

1. Gribovskaya winter - flattened olive-colored balls weighing up to 4 kg, with orange pulp.
2. Premiere—with long vine-like stems and yellow skin covered with light spots—takes up a lot of space. The pumpkins form clusters of 2-4 fruits, weighing up to 6 kg in total.

All varieties store well, ripening within 4 months of transplanting to their permanent location. They are drought-resistant and tolerant of heavy rainfall.

Bushy

Varieties for small areas that do not form long vines:

1. The cold-hardy "Vesnushka" ripens in 2.5 months. The leaves are marbled, and the skin is orange, covered with dark green spots. The fruits are small, up to 2 kg.
2. Gribovskaya is a hybrid variety with fruits weighing 2-5 kg. It has a short shelf life—until early winter.
3. Dachnaya is considered the best variety for growing in a garden. The fruits resemble melons—oval, elongated, lemon-colored, and have firm, vanilla-flavored flesh.

These varieties can be planted between rows, separating one area of ​​the garden from another. The bushes are low-growing, don't take up much space, and don't shade other plants.

Sweet

Pumpkin varieties preferred by gardeners in central Russia and the Urals:

• early ripening small-fruited Kroshka with good keeping quality;
• giant Atlas with fruits weighing 20-50 kg;
• late-ripening hybrid Big Max - to taste the sweetest pulp, seedlings should be planted in mid-April;
• Almond - round orange fruits with a characteristic taste;
• Sweet chamomile - with a ribbed surface and long shoots;
• Honey dessert - juicy honey-colored pulp, high yield.

Sweet varieties ripen 3-4 months after sowing, so it's recommended to grow them from seedlings. If planting dates are incorrect or transplanted into open ground too late, the fruits won't have time to ripen.

Growing

The prepared seeds should be sorted, leaving behind smooth, firm ones and discarding any cracked or damp ones. Germination is tested by wrapping several seeds in a damp cloth and leaving them in a warm place for 3-4 days. The overall germination rate is determined by the percentage of germinated seeds.

Seeds prepared for planting are disinfected by soaking them in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. Selective planting material does not require disinfection.

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The seeds are moistened, placed on a damp cloth for 2-4 days, and then placed in a warm place. After sprouts appear, they are planted in a soil mixture of equal parts humus, peat, and sand, or a mixture of humus, turf, and peat in a 2:1:1 ratio. The seeds are inserted, pointed side down, 4-7 cm deep. Place the containers on a south-facing windowsill; the required temperature is 25°C.

After 10 days, the grown stems are laid out in rings and covered with soil up to the first cotyledon leaves. After 20 days, hardening begins. First, open the windows for two hours a day, then move them to a closed balcony. Over the next six days, reduce the temperature to 15-18°C during the day and 12-13°C at night. If grown in warm conditions, the sprouts will stretch and weaken.

Seedlings are planted on the 30th to 35th day, but if the soil hasn't warmed up enough, you may need to wait. Water as needed. Avoid stagnant moisture. The first feeding should be done 10 days after the sprouts emerge, using a mullein or nitrophoska solution.

Transplantation into open ground

Hardened seedlings are transferred to a prepared plot. Pumpkins grow well after cucumbers, legumes, potatoes, and onions. Corn, onions, thyme, and marigolds do not interfere with ripening. The soil should warm to a depth of 10 cm, reaching 12-14°C.

The planting pattern is 1.5 m between rows and 45-50 cm between holes. Each hole is 30-50 cm deep. The seedlings are planted very carefully, without disturbing the root ball, to avoid damaging the root system. The soil is compacted and watered.

If the soil is not fertile enough, add a handful of compost or humus to each hole.

For the first week, young sprouts are covered with plastic film or caps made from cut-up plastic bottles—they require greenhouse conditions. They are aired twice a day and watered with settled water.

If it is not possible to visit the area, a ditch is made around its perimeter and water is poured into it.

After watering, the top layer is loosened—as long as the shoots allow—to ensure a steady flow of air. Weeds are removed regularly, and nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied every 14 days. After budding, complex fertilizers with increased potassium and phosphorus content are applied at the same frequency.

To prevent the plant from wasting extra energy on growing green mass, remove excess ovaries, leaving 2-3 per shoot, and leaves.

The most common diseases affecting pumpkins are root rot and powdery mildew. To combat these diseases, adjust the watering schedule, remove damaged parts, and treat the vines with fungicides. If signs of infection are minor, home remedies such as spraying with aloe vera juice can be used.

Pests that threaten garden crops include spider mites and whiteflies. You can use a strong wormwood decoction, tar soap infusion, or ash. If there are numerous pests, treat with insecticides. If ovaries have already appeared, only folk remedies can be used.