Eustoma is a perennial plant, but in Russia it is grown as an annual or houseplant, as it cannot survive the winter outdoors. To ensure summer blooms, seeds are sown in winter. Experienced gardeners recommend following the lunar calendar. After the weather warms up, the mature plants are transferred to the flowerbed. With proper care, flowers bloom in midsummer.
Description
Lisianthus, or eustoma, is a perennial flowering plant from the Gentianaceae family. In its native South America, it grows vigorously and blooms for no more than two years. Afterward, its flowers become small, and its stems become elongated. In gardening, the plant is grown as a potted plant or in the open ground as an annual.
Lisianthus stems resemble carnations, growing up to 1 meter in length. They branch extensively, so even a single branch can produce a lush bouquet. Up to 35 buds bloom on a single shoot. The open flowers reach 8 cm in diameter and have a funnel-shaped form.
They alternate, giving the blooms a seemingly continuous appearance. Depending on the variety, the petals are white, pink, lilac, or purple. Some varieties have edging on the petals. Lisianthus leaves are elongated ovals, gray or glaucous in color.
Growing conditions
Lisianthus doesn't tolerate cold. Even a slight drop in temperature can cause the flower to deteriorate and dry out. Lisianthus's immunity also depends on indoor humidity. Exceeding the permissible level can encourage the development of fungal diseases.
To successfully grow seedlings, maintain a daytime temperature of at least 22°C indoors. At night, this temperature may drop to 18°C. Only warm water should be used for watering the seedlings. Cold water weakens the seedlings' immunity and promotes the development of fungal infections.
Humidity should be moderate, between 50 and 60%. In winter, heating appliances can dry out the air in the apartment. To increase humidity, place containers of water near the seedling tray or use a household humidifier.
For active seedling development, 10 or more hours of light are needed. Seedling boxes and flower pots are placed on the south side of the house. However, even there, sunlight is insufficient in winter and early spring. To compensate, grow lights are installed and used to provide supplemental light in the morning and evening.
Planting time
Lisianthus has a very long growing season. From germination to flowering, it takes 150 to 210 days. Therefore, it's best to plant lisianthus seeds in boxes during the winter to grow seedlings.
If this is done in December or January, flowering will begin in June. The latest recommended time is February. Later is possible, but then flowering will not begin until autumn.
According to the lunar calendar
Many gardeners choose favorable planting days based on the phases of the moon. It is believed that the celestial body's gravity influences the development of all living organisms on Earth, including plants. The best planting days for eustoma occur during the waxing moon phase. During this time, plant sap rises upward, and the above-ground portion of the bush develops more vigorously. Any planting is prohibited during the full moon and new moon phases. The waning moon is suitable for root crops.
| Month of 2024 | Favorable days | Unfavorable days |
| January | 13-23 | 10-12, 24-26 |
| February | 12-22 | 9-11, 23-25 |
| March | 12-23 | 9-11, 24-26 |
Dates before and after the New Moon and Full Moon are also considered unlucky. All other dates not listed are considered neutral.
By region
Seeds should also be sown taking into account the local weather. Sowing too early results in seedlings that are too tall and stretched out by the time they're transplanted into the flowerbed. To successfully adapt to their new location, plants must be strong and healthy.
Depending on the region, it is recommended to adhere to the following sowing dates:
- In the warm southern part of Russia, planting begins in November or December. Flowering then begins in May or June and continues throughout the summer.
- In the Moscow region and other regions of the central zone, this occurs in January and February. In midsummer, the buds begin to bloom.
- In the Urals and Siberia, sowing is also done in February, or perhaps in early March, so that flowers bloom on the bushes in July or August.
- Residents of the Leningrad Region begin in mid-February. Once established, the seedlings are transplanted to the flowerbed in June, when there's no risk of unexpected frost.
If you're growing lisianthus as a houseplant, you can sow the seeds in March. The newly sprouted seedlings then grow well without additional lighting. During the warmer months, the seedlings develop more vigorously, and by September, the eustoma will begin to bloom indoors.
Growing Eustoma
Lisianthus seeds are very small. To make them easier to work with, seeds treated with nutrients and coated with a special glaze are purchased. They are much larger than regular seeds. These seeds do not require pre-soaking or disinfection. They have already undergone all necessary processing.
Soil preparation
Shallow, wide containers are suitable: plastic food containers or small seedling boxes. They should have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent moisture from stagnating in the soil. Before filling the containers with soil, treat them with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
Use loose, light soil that allows good aeration to the root system. Ready-made soil mixes for violets or a general-purpose potting soil with neutral pH are suitable. Washed river sand is added to loosen the soil.
You can mix the soil yourself from the following components:
- 4 parts peat;
- 2 parts leaf soil;
- 1 part river sand.
Wood ash is also added to the soil mixture to make it less acidic. After mixing, the soil is sifted and disinfected to kill pathogenic microflora. To do this, the soil is held over steam for an hour or placed in an oven for 30 minutes. You can also water the soil with Fitosporin-M or use a potassium permanganate solution.
Sowing
Fill the prepared containers with soil and lightly moisten with warm water from a spray bottle. After compacting and leveling the surface, make shallow furrows 3 cm apart. Using a toothpick dipped in water, place the seeds in the furrows at intervals of 1.5 cm.
Sprinkle them with a 1-2 mm layer of river sand to allow the seeds to peek through. Spray the surface again with warm water. Cover the container with plastic wrap or glass. Leave the container in a warm, well-lit place until the sprouts emerge. Maintain a room temperature of 22°C to 24°C.
Caring for seedlings
Until seedlings emerge, the containers are opened regularly for ventilation and light soil moistening. Once seedlings emerge, the cover is removed completely, and the container is moved to a well-lit location with diffused light and a temperature of 18°C to 20°C. A temperature drop of 2°C is possible at night. Daylight hours are increased to 12 hours.
The seedlings are watered regularly with warm water, maintaining moderate soil moisture. A rubber bulb is used for irrigation to prevent moisture from getting on the leaves. Fitosporin-M is periodically added to the irrigation water to protect against fungal infections.
When the fourth true leaf emerges, transplanting is performed. By this point, the seedlings will be 1.5-2 cm tall. The soil should be moistened the day before transplanting to facilitate removal. The plants are removed with a small stick or tweezers and transferred to individual 100 ml cups.
To speed up adaptation to the new container, simultaneously with transplanting, water the seedlings with a solution of Epin, Kornevin, or Zircon. After a week, apply calcium fertilizers. A solution of Calcinite (1 liter of water and 2 grams of calcium fertilizer) is suitable. Humates, such as Potassium Humate, are used to stimulate seedling development.
Subsequently, until transplanting to a permanent location, nitrogen fertilizers are applied every 2 weeks, alternating them with calcium fertilizers.
When the eighth true leaf forms, the seedlings are transplanted into 500 ml containers. To preserve the root system, the transplanting is done by transshipment. After the onset of stable warm weather, the grown eustoma bushes are moved to a flower bed in the yard.
Preparing a garden site and replanting
A wind-protected garden spot is ideal for growing lisianthus. The plant prefers filtered light, so choose a spot in light partial shade. Direct sunlight will burn the delicate foliage, and lisianthus will not bloom in the shade. A good option is a spot near a mesh fence or a greenhouse. In cooler climates, a well-lit location is more suitable.
The plant thrives in loose, fertile, and moisture-retentive soil. Before transplanting the seedlings, dig the soil, add compost, and a complete fertilizer for flowering plants, such as nitrophoska. The soil should be neutral in pH. Flower development is delayed in acidic soil. Therefore, dolomite flour or lime is added to improve the soil quality.
Transplanting seedlings to their permanent location is only possible after warm weather sets in. Daytime temperatures should be at least 25°C, with nighttime temperatures potentially dropping to 15°C. In most regions, eustoma is transplanted in early or mid-June. In Siberia or the Urals, this is done in the second half of the month or even in July.
Plants are transplanted using the transshipment method. To do this, make holes slightly larger than the root ball, spaced 30 cm apart, and water them. Place a Lisostoma plant in the hole and fill the remaining space with fertile soil. Lightly compact the soil and moisten it again.
Aftercare
Water eustoma moderately. The plant is susceptible to fungal infections, and excess moisture promotes their spread. Water only after the surface soil has dried. Water the bush in the evening with room-temperature water. Avoid additional watering completely during rainy weather.
The first feeding is done 30 days after transplanting to a permanent location. Nitrogen-rich fertilizers are added to stimulate growth and development. A second feeding is done two weeks after the first. By this time, the plant is already blooming. Therefore, mineral complexes with a high phosphorus content are used to support flowering.
Lisianthus pruning is necessary if grown as a potted houseplant. In this case, pinch off the growing point of the seedlings at the eighth true leaf stage. Lisianthus grown outdoors do not require this procedure.
If they are stored indoors over the winter for planting next year, all the stems are cut off in the fall, leaving 2-3 internodes on each shoot.
After the flowers appear, eustoma can be cut for bouquets. The plant is resistant to pruning. Within a few days, new buds appear and flowering begins again. The same technique is used to stimulate flower formation if there are few flowers.
Eustoma: growing from seeds