Sowing peppers - a simple and clear guide to growing Bulgarian pepper seedlings at home

Sweet peppers, which we typically grow as annuals in our gardens, are heat-loving perennials with a long growing season in their native Central America. In our climate, they begin their life indoors long before the frosts end—after all, without pre-germinating the seeds, they cannot be grown in the ground during such a short summer.

In large farms, its seedlings are grown in greenhouses, but it's quite possible to do so at home on a windowsill. Even an inexperienced gardener can sow the seeds, provided you follow a few simple guidelines. The results will be impressive, especially if you pay attention to timing. To ensure a good harvest, pay attention to seed preparation and ensure the seedlings receive the appropriate temperature, light, moisture, and nutrition.

Timing is an important factor that many newbies overlook.

The timing of pepper sowing depends on several factors, primarily the variety and your home's conditions. The following factors influence the timing:

1. The growing season, or, in other words, the ripening period, ranges from 100 to 150 days or more depending on the variety. Therefore, early varieties can be sown later.
2. Conditions: a greenhouse, veranda, and wide windowsill. Lighting and temperature are also important. A spacious space allows seedlings to grow indoors longer, while cramped conditions and poor lighting, on the contrary, indicate a shorter period of time indoors.

   

3. Estimated time to move the peppers outdoors. Where the peppers will grow is important. They can be planted in a greenhouse even in April, so sowing should be done earlier—as early as February. However, the heat-loving "Bulgarian" peppers are transplanted to the garden in early summer, so they have plenty of time to develop seedlings, and sowing can begin in March.
4. Were the seeds prepared for sowing? The point is that the seed needs to "wake up" when it senses moisture and warmth, and this also takes time.

In addition to these calculations, gardeners often use a lunar calendar, which indicates favorable days for sowing. These calendars are compiled based on years of observations of how each lunar phase influences various processes: seed germination, seedling growth, and fruiting.

In 2024, the favorable days in each month are as follows:

• February: 11, 12, 19-21;
• March: 11, 17-19;
• April: 13-16.

Unfavorable:

• February: 9-11, 23-25;
• March: 9-11, 24-26;
• April: 7-9, 23-25.

Dates that are not specified are neutral.

Step-by-step instructions with explanations of small details

So, the sowing dates have been set, and the groundwork has been laid. Now it's time to focus on the seeds and soil. Without proper preparation, it's impossible to expect good results when growing peppers.

Soil preparation is essential

The soil mixture in which seedlings grow has a direct impact on them, as it serves as a source of nutrition. Soil requirements are as follows:

• neutral acidity with a pH of 6-6.5;
• high nutritional value and safety, meaning it should not contain pathogens or pests;
• looseness and ability to retain moisture.

For convenience and time-saving reasons, you can purchase this type of soil at a gardening store, but it's also easy to make your own at home. The mixture includes soil from a garden bed, peat, humus, sand, and deciduous sawdust.

This will help protect against potential pests and diseases of this family. To balance moisture, a volcanic rock called agroperlite is available; it absorbs water, so it's worth adding it to the mixture. Vermiculite is another important ingredient in seedling soil; it will provide oxygen to future plants.

To kill pathogens, the prepared soil should be baked in the oven for an hour. This is a good idea even for store-bought soil. Then, add fertilizer to restore the nutrients. Earthworm-based fertilizers have proven effective for this purpose.

Seed preparation is also an important matter.

It's best to buy seeds from trusted, professional brands. Home-collected seeds also yield a good harvest, provided they're not from a hybrid. Seed preparation consists of four stages:

1. Sorting. This is the mechanical selection of high-quality seeds, discarding deformed, empty, or damaged ones.

   

2. Disinfection. Seeds may contain fungal spores and other pathogens, so they need to be soaked in a solution that can neutralize pathogens. Potassium permanganate, Fitosporin, and Mikosan are most commonly used. Soaking (also called dressing) should last 30 minutes. Then rinse in clean, cold water.
3. Growth stimulation. There are substances that activate germination. These include ready-made preparations such as Epin, Zircon, and NV-101. Home remedies include a honey solution and willow twig infusion. Soak clean seeds for 12 hours to 24 hours.
4. Germination. This process usually takes 5-10 days and involves keeping the seeds in a damp cloth to prevent them from drying out.

   

Typically, more than one pepper variety is grown, so each one needs a separate container to carry out all the above procedures and avoid mixing up the varieties. Sprouted seeds must be handled with extreme care, as the newly sprouted roots are very fragile.

Sowing technology - don't make mistakes!

Seeds can be sown in either individual containers or shared trays. The difference is that with the latter method, the seedlings are then pricked out. Before use, the trays should be rinsed with a solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect them.

Place drainage material at the bottom of the chosen container to ensure excess water drains and escapes through the holes—young seedlings are very sensitive to overwatering. Top with soil, almost to the top. Lightly compact the soil, but not too hard, to ensure it's loose and has sufficient air spaces. This type of soil makes it easier for the fine roots to grow deeper and develop, consuming oxygen.

Now the fine work begins: the sprouted seeds need to be spread over the surface of the soil.

The greater this distance, the longer you can leave the seedlings apart. Planting too closely together will prevent the plants from developing fully. Different varieties should be sown in different containers or separated and marked with some kind of marker to avoid confusion.

Water or mist the seedlings carefully, otherwise the seeds, which are not yet firmly planted in the soil, may float to the surface, ruining the planting pattern. To prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly, wrap the tray in plastic or cover it with glass, simulating a greenhouse. Remove the cover for a few minutes to allow air to circulate, then remove it completely once the seeds have germinated.

If sowing directly into individual cups, place two seeds in each. The next step is the same as with the box: sprinkle, water, cover, and ventilate. Only once the seedlings have grown should one, stronger plant be left in the cup. Some farmers prefer this method, as it prevents damage to the still-weak seedlings during transplanting and saves time.

Caring for crops in an apartment

Of course, growing good seedlings in a specially equipped greenhouse with lighting, humidity, and temperature control is easy and enjoyable, but not everyone has this opportunity. The reality of a city apartment is much more modest, but with the right knowledge and some careful planning, everything can be done.

Temperature conditions

Temperature requirements vary at different stages of seedling development. While the seedlings themselves require a temperature of 24-26 degrees Celsius, once the seedlings emerge, the temperature needs to be significantly reduced—by 7-10 degrees. How can this be achieved on a typical apartment windowsill during the heating season? After all, radiators operate quite locally: it's hot right next to the radiator, but colder by the window.

The newly sprouted plants are moved to a location with light and cool air—preferably closer to a window. The barriers are left in place. They should be removed when the seedlings need warmer temperatures, reaching 20-22 degrees Celsius. Then, with the radiators on, the window will provide the optimal balance of temperature and light.

Lighting

The seed trays don't require any special light until germination, so they're simply kept warm. But as soon as the seedlings emerge, the transparent cover is removed and the trays are moved to a window.

In some cases, for example, for pepper varieties with a long growing season, meaning those sown as early as February, normal daylight may not be enough.

This can cause the seedlings to weaken and stretch upward on the windowsill. The stems themselves will also become thin and weak. In this situation, the best solution is to use supplemental lighting with a phytolamp.

If purchasing such a lighting fixture is not possible for some reason, the seedlings should be supported with stimulation that will slightly compensate for the low light. As planting time approaches, the number of sunny days increases, increasing the risk of leaf burn. Therefore, south-facing windows exposed to direct sunlight should be covered with a curtain or screen made of paper or fabric.

Watering

Often, improper watering can ruin the entire project. Therefore, it's important to remember the following basic principles:

• the water needs to be warm, even up to 30 degrees, pepper is afraid of hypothermia, especially at the seedling stage;
• water quality characteristics: it should not be from the tap, but at least settled, but better from a filter or well, so that there is definitely no chlorine;
• The container for seedlings must have good drainage holes so that they do not become clogged with soil and allow excess water to pass freely, otherwise the roots will be in the soil slurry and may “suffocate”, although this may not be visible from above;
• Based on the previous point, before watering, be sure to check the tray for water to determine whether watering is necessary.

If we talk about the frequency of watering, then at first it needs to be done 4-5 times a week in small portions, then the procedure is reduced to 2-3 times, and when 3 full leaves have already grown, watering is carried out once a week.

Fertilizing and loosening the soil

Peppers are a crop that really needs good nutrition, especially if they're growing on a windowsill. There are products that support the plant in low light and temperature fluctuations, helping it survive unfavorable conditions. Examples include Baikal-EM, Mikosan, Ecoberin, and Healthy Garden.

For intensive growth, you can apply complex fertilizers. Be sure to follow the dosage instructions and apply the fertilizer only after watering or by diluting it with water.

Well-loose soil is characterized by large air spaces, which are essential for roots. Such soil will not compact into a lump over time. Therefore, properly prepared soil does not require loosening, especially since deep tilling can damage the roots. Only a slight stirring of the top layer is allowed if it has crusted over due to watering.

Ventilation and hardening

As the seedlings grow, ensure good air circulation between the stems, especially if they're planted too close together. However, this doesn't mean they should be exposed to wind—drafts are dangerous for peppers. A well-ventilated room will do, but they should be taken out during the actual airing process.

Hardening off peppers begins closer to the time of planting—approximately 2-3 weeks beforehand. At first, simply leave the window open for a few hours, then move the box to a cooler room, such as a balcony. Increase the time each day. After a week or two, you can begin leaving the seedlings on the balcony overnight to acclimate them to the temperature difference between day and night. This prepares the plants for life outdoors.

Picking

Pricking out peppers is a very delicate and traumatic task for the seedlings and roots. Many people avoid it, sowing the seeds directly into individual containers. But if for some reason your seedlings have grown in a common container, it's essential to transplant them to a larger area. Otherwise, they'll stunt their growth while waiting for their "living conditions" to improve. The seedlings should determine the timing of pricking out: they should have two pairs of true leaves.

The seedling tray should be watered and allowed to drain well. Then, hold the plant by the leaves (leave the stem alone, as it's fragile and can easily break) and dig it out with a trowel or spoon, scooping up a good lump of soil around the roots. Place it in the prepared hole in the new container, being careful not to disturb the soil, cover with fresh soil, and water gently. You can add a rooting agent to the water to alleviate stress and promote recovery.

For the first day or two, transplanted peppers should be kept away from the windowsill, in the back of the room, in a slightly shaded area, to allow for a gentle adaptation. Then, move them to their permanent location.

Frequently asked questions about growing with answers

Pepper is a rather demanding and capricious plant for beginners, so many questions arise during the growing process: