When can actinidia be pruned and the correct pruning patterns

Actinidia pruning is a cultural practice that increases yield. To ensure the vine grows well and produces plenty of tasty and healthy fruit, follow these important pruning tips. Shoots are pruned according to a specific pattern to achieve the desired bush shape. This procedure must be carried out promptly, otherwise the plant may become depleted or even dry out.

Timing and basic rules for pruning

The vine grows vigorously, leading to dense growth and reduced yields. Fruits form on new growth. Therefore, old branches need to be pruned regularly to stimulate new growth. When choosing the timing, consider the following:

1. The optimal time for cutting branches is autumn, when the leaves have fallen, but no later than a month before frost.
2. When shoots are shortened in summer, dormant buds from the current year awaken. Young branches won't have time to strengthen before winter and will freeze. In June and July, only pinching can be done.
3. If you prune actinidia in the spring, it will become exhausted due to loss of sap. A mature vine will produce few fruits, and a small plant will dry out. If necessary, actinidia can be pruned in late February before the sap begins to flow.

When pruning actinidia, you should follow these rules:

1. First, remove dried, damaged, weak or shading branches.
2. Stems that have borne fruit for three years are replaced with new ones. They are cut off at the ring.
3. Growth (support) branches are shortened to a length of 50 cm, and mixed branches that form fruits are shortened to 30 cm.
4. Once the crown is formed, it is enough to cut off the shading and dry shoots.

Features of liana formation

Depending on the variety, actinidia is grown in a fan-shaped or horizontal cordon. Branch density is regulated. Otherwise, overloading the plant with fruit can weaken it, lead to premature wood maturation, winter frost damage, and reduced yield. Another purpose of pruning actinidia is rejuvenation. It's also important to ensure that the vines don't shade each other. In low light, the plant sheds its leaves and produces new shoots, primarily at the top.

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Fan formation and horizontal cordon

On a vertical trellis, actinidia is trained into a trapezoid shape, widening toward the top. The method consists of the following steps:

1. During the first year of growth, select 2-3 strong branches and secure them to the bottom wire. In the fall, remove excess stems. The remaining fan branches are pruned to the mature wood level to encourage lateral branching.
2. The following year, the strongest second-tier branches—three from each vine—are tied to the support. They are tied to the second- and third-tier wires. In the fall The young plant is pruned to a height of 50 cm to encourage active tillering. Unnecessary shoots are cut off at the base.
3. In the third year, fruiting branches are placed vertically, secured to wire. In the fall, the growing shoots are pruned to prevent them from outgrowing the support. Fruiting shoots are shortened by 1/3 of their length.

Forming a horizontal cordon begins in the first year of growth. In the fall, two strong vines are selected. These are used to form two arms approximately 2 meters wide. The stems are tied horizontally to the bottom wire of the trellis, pointing in opposite directions. In the fall, all excess branches are removed. The following season, productive side shoots will appear on the growing vines. These are tied vertically. The pattern is then repeated: in the third year, the two best shoots growing on the arms are selected and tied horizontally to the wire in opposite directions. Fruiting branches are pruned annually, leaving 4-5 buds above the top berry.

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Pruning different types of vines

The most commonly grown actinidia in gardens are kolomikta, polygama, and arguta. Many winter-hardy varieties have been developed from these varieties. Kolomikta and polygama bear fruit on both short and long shoots. Therefore, excessive pruning is not recommended, as this will result in low yields. Arguta produces berries only on the current year's branches. It requires regular thinning and annual pruning of its growth stems.

When pruning actinidia, you need to take into account the characteristics of each species:

1. Arguta fruits form on shortened shoots, so it requires frequent pinching. The main vine lasts a lifetime and is replaced only if damaged or frozen.
2. Kolomikta is pruned only seven years after planting. Each year, one of the main branches is replaced with a new one.
3. To ensure better fruiting of the polygama, long shoots need to be shortened annually.

The main goal of pruning actinidia is to create a decorative, abundantly fruiting plant. Furthermore, proper pruning increases the vine's resistance to disease and cold, which is crucial for a heat-loving plant. Avoid allowing the crown to become too dense. Only then will the seedling develop into a strong, healthy vine that will receive adequate nutrition and light.