Indoor violet: proper care, pruning, and propagation at home

The violet (Saintpaulia) appeared on home windowsills about 200 years ago. Its variety of varieties and colors, frequent blooms, and low maintenance have always attracted gardeners. To ensure the plant blooms more often, it's important to carefully select its location within the home, taking into account watering, temperature, lighting, and fertilizing requirements.

The size of the pot is also important, as it affects the appearance of buds and the development of the flower.

Choosing a pot and soil

Violets' roots are located near the soil surface, so consider this when choosing a container for the plant. The rhizome is located closer to the light and nutrients. Therefore, the soil substrate must be well-drained and moisture-permeable.

Selecting containers

The size of the container depends on the hybrid and age of the Saintpaulia:

• the young plants are planted in containers measuring 5 cm by 5 cm;
• medium-sized flowers are grown in a pot measuring 7 cm by 7 cm;
• An adult plant of large size prefers a container of 10 cm by 10 cm.

When a violet becomes cramped in its old pot, remove it, gently shake off the soil, and transfer it to a 10 x 10 cm pot with new soil. In larger pots, miniature violets primarily develop leaves, with few flowers. The soil, which isn't surrounded by roots, becomes sour, and fungi and insects thrive in it.

Material used for making containers:

Glazed ceramic pots don't "breathe." It's impossible to make holes in them. Unglazed pots will discolor over time, and salt will bleed out, but violets thrive in these pots.

A plastic container is lightweight, simple, durable, and flexible. Repotting is easier than with other options. The downside is that plastic doesn't allow air to pass through. A solution is to make drainage holes.

Plastic, colorful containers are only aesthetically pleasing. The aniline dyes used for pots poison plants, leading to their death.

Violets thrive in clay pots. Clay allows for good air and moisture circulation. Plants in clay pots are less susceptible to disease. The downside of such containers is their short lifespan; they easily break and chip. Furthermore, clay pots are heavy and cannot be placed on glass shelves. Sunlight can cause the pot to become very hot, and the soil dries out quickly.

How to prepare soil

Saintpaulias prefer a slightly acidic environment with a pH of 5-6. Dolomite flour, limestone, and wood ash (a spoonful of ash per 2 liters of water) are added to acidic soil. A neutral environment is not suitable for violets.

The soil mixture for Saintpaulias should be breathable and should not be compacted. It's best to use soil that hasn't been used for a long time. Prepare the soil yourself: soil, sand, and peat (4:1:1). It's best to use soil from under deciduous or coniferous trees. A combination of deciduous and turf soil is also acceptable.

Add charcoal, potassium, and phosphorus to the soil. The charcoal nourishes the soil and absorbs excess moisture. Place large chunks of it at the bottom of the pot for drainage, while the finer pieces are mixed with the soil. Coconut fiber absorbs excess moisture and can be placed at the bottom of the container. Fertilizer proportions should be maintained according to the instructions. Overfeeding the plant with nitrogen will result in lush foliage but no flowers. If there is a nitrogen or phosphorus deficiency, add ground eggshell powder. Nitrogen fertilizers are poorly absorbed by violets in alkaline environments.

Natural materials such as vermiculite or perlite serve as drainage. Styrofoam or expanded clay are also used. Drainage materials can be purchased at a flower shop, where you can also buy ready-made potting mix and special fertilizers for violets. Moss is used to disinfect the soil. It is poured with boiling water, dried, ground, and spread on top of the soil around the flower.

Potting mix options:

• nutrient soil, peat, moss, charcoal (1:2:1:0.5);
• turf soil, perlite, sphagnum moss, coal (6:1:1:1);
• peat soil, leaf soil, vermiculite, coal (3:1:1:0.5);
• nutrient soil, peat, perlite, Seramis granulate, coal (5:1:0.5:0.5:0.25), superphosphate (3-4 peas).

Signs of acidic soil: unopened buds fall off, turn yellow, and the lower leaves of the violet fall off.

Lighting, temperature, humidity for Saintpaulia

It's important to find a spot in the house with good lighting, suitable air temperature, and humidity for violets. In their natural habitat, Saintpaulias thrive in shaded areas. Too much light causes stunted growth, yellowing of the foliage, and flattening of the rosette, which slows the formation of flower stalks. However, even in poorly lit areas, don't expect flowers. Look for a windowsill with diffused light.

Light

Violets require an average daylight period of 10-12 hours. It's crucial to have at least 6 hours of darkness. This is when the hormones responsible for flower stalk formation accumulate.

Western, northern, and eastern windows are protected from intense daylight. In summer, windows are shaded with paper, fabric, curtains, tracing paper, or blinds. In the southern regions of the country, even in winter, there is sufficient light for plants. In the northern and western regions, there is insufficient light from October to March, causing violets to stop blooming and grow stunted.

To compensate for the lack of light, fluorescent lamps are used. Two 40-watt lamps are sufficient for one shelf (50 x 130 cm), positioned 30 cm above the flowers. There are varieties of Saintpaulias that require more light. If there are many flowers on a shelf, they are periodically rotated to ensure even distribution of light among the plants. The end sections of the lamps (5 cm) do not provide sufficient light for the flowers.

Humidity

The humidity level for violets is 50-60%. Under these conditions, flower stalks form more frequently, the flowers are large, and last longer. During winter, radiators start working, causing the air to become dry. There are several ways to solve this problem:

• using humidifiers;
• Plants are sprayed with water daily from a spray bottle;
• containers with water are placed near the pots;
• Use green moss on the surface of the soil, it retains moisture in the pot.

Transplanted plants, pups, and young plants require increased humidity. Humidity levels above 70% promote fungal diseases and inhibit evaporation, which is essential for plants.

Temperature

Saintpaulia doesn't like heat. A comfortable temperature for this oriental beauty is considered to be 19-22 degrees Celsius. At temperatures below 13 degrees Celsius, development slows, and at higher temperatures above 25 degrees Celsius, the violets' appearance changes.

After spring planting, the plant's development shifts to the summer, with the first flowers appearing within a few months. If the seedlings were planted in the fall, the cooler period affects root development. Flower buds often form in the spring or summer. This is beneficial because the young plants are not exposed to the sun's harmful rays, and a single petiole produces more offspring than a spring shoot.

It's important to consider the temperature under artificial lighting. After all, lamps provide additional heat. When they are turned off, the temperature drops sharply. To avoid unpredictable consequences, install thermometers near the shelves. Violets die at 5°C*. To ensure blooms appear year-round, a stable temperature is needed in both winter and summer. Fans, air conditioners, and adequate ventilation can all help. You can lower the plants to the floor or turn off additional lamps. Violets bloom very rarely in the summer heat; flowering begins in the fall, when the weather cools.

Watering violets

For watering, you'll need settled water. The temperature of the water should be higher than the room temperature. A room temperature of 18°C* is too low for Saintpaulias; warm the water to 23-26°C*.

The primary watering method is from above, along the rim of the container. The water should completely wet the soil, which will be noticeable as liquid appears from the drainage holes. Excess water should be removed from the tray. The plants should not be watered for several days.

If the soil is dry, submerge the pot completely in water until the soil is saturated. Sprinkle the leaves with water. Remove the container from the water, allow the excess water to drain, and add soil on top if necessary.

Water the plants with a long-spouted watering can or a syringe to prevent the rosette from rotting if it gets wet. If salts appear on the soil surface, change the potting soil or replace the top layer of soil. You can layer moss on top of the soil to absorb the salts. Replace the soil after two weeks.

To save time, water is poured onto trays and the flower pots are left in them for half an hour. Then the remaining liquid is drained.

A capillary mat is used to simplify watering. The mat is soaked with water or a nutrient-rich liquid, inserted into the pot's holes, and the wet material gradually releases moisture to the plant. The watering mat is placed on a tray or base. It is watered as the material dries. A special acrylic fiber is used for the mat; an old blanket can also be used.

To save water and time, use the wick method. Plants regulate the amount of water they need. A synthetic cord is buried in the pot's soil, and the other end is immersed in water. The container with the plant (or several pots) is placed on a grid over a container of water, and the wicks are lowered into the reservoir. Be sure to monitor the water level.

Fertilizing Saintpaulia

Within 2-3 months, the soil in a small pot becomes depleted. Without nutrients, the plant stops growing and blooming. Fertilizers for violets should contain micronutrients and organic matter: nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. It's best to use complex fertilizers containing all the necessary nutrients for flowers:

• phosphorus helps to form buds and promotes the development of the root system;
• Nitrogen activates growth, leaves acquire a rich green color;
• Potassium influences the flowering process and develops plant resistance to diseases and pests.

Addition of additives is carried out:

• after transplanting young animals in 3 weeks;
• when temperature changes;
• when stems and foliage are weakened;
• when there are no flowers for a long time;
• during intense sunlight;
• when harmful insects appear.

For root feeding, apply fertilizer through a tray or top-dress the soil along with water. If using specialized or all-purpose fertilizers, dilute them according to the instructions. After flowering, fertilize the Saintpaulia with complex mineral supplements.

Foliar feeding is done through the foliage, which is sprayed with a nutrient solution. This method is complex; if the amount of fertilizer is not calculated correctly, excess application will negatively impact the plants.

Recommendations:

• If the soil in the pot is dry, it needs to be watered, then the plant needs to be fertilized a day after watering;
• when violets are sick and look weak, they are not fertilized;
• do not fertilize in hot weather and high light conditions;
• organic matter (manure, humus) is alternated with minerals (superphosphate).

Along with fertilizers, folk remedies are used: coffee grounds, onion peel decoction, yeast, citrus peel infusion, and sweet water.

Diseases and pests

This delicate flower can be damaged by bacteria, viruses, and fungi, as well as insects such as spider mites, aphids, nematodes, and mealybugs. To ensure your violet enjoys lush blooms all year round, it needs to be protected from pests and diseases.

Powdery mildew

The first sign of its presence is a white coating on the leaves. Later, ulcers appear on all parts of the plant. Fungal diseases can be triggered by excessive nitrogen levels, contaminated soil, or introduction of the fungus by dirty tools. Fungicides such as Topaz and Fundazol are used to combat the fungus. They are diluted in warm water, and after spraying, the pots are placed in a dark, warm place.

Fusarium

Fusarium fungus infests the root system, causing root rot. Symptoms include brown leaf petioles, leaflets falling off, and the rhizome easily separating from the soil. Treatment: Remove rotting plant parts and dried flowers, and spray with fungicides.

Late blight

Fungus enters through cuts on the stems and leaves. This is indicated by rusty spots on the foliage. Fungal spores persist in the soil and affect the entire plant. The fungus should be destroyed, the soil changed, and the container sterilized. Fundazol and Benlat are helpful. As a preventative measure, add superphosphate to the soil. Avoid excessive humidity in the home.

Botrytis (gray rot)

The disease affects the entire flower and leads to its death. Fluffy gray-brown spots appear on the leaves. Leaves with these spots are removed, and the soil is watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The plant is dug up, the roots are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate, the soil is kept in the freezer for 24 hours, and then stored in a warm room. Diseased violets are treated with fungicides according to the instructions.

Mealybugs

The insects bite various parts of the plant, causing red spots to appear at the bite sites. If you remove the soil from the pot, you'll see small white fluffy clumps. When several pots are placed on a tray, the pests can travel through the water. Saintpaulias are treated with Aktara, Fitoverm, and Actellic. Bazudin is added to the soil before planting.

Aphid

Green pests are easy to spot. They suck plant sap and attack buds and flowers. Mospilan and Actellic help get rid of these insects.

Ticks

The spider web pest leaves behind brown, sunken spots. Control is achieved with Fitoverm, Akarin, and Actellic.

Nematodes

These worms can be seen under a microscope. They suck the sap from the roots, releasing toxic substances. To prevent these microscopic worms, plants are planted in peat soil. Add one Piperazine tablet to each pot.

Immunocytophyte is used as a preventative measure (1 tablet per 2.5 liters of water). The preparation strengthens the violets' immunity, making them less susceptible to disease.

Trimming

Twice a year, violets are repotted in new soil. The bush should have three tiers of foliage. To keep the plant looking attractive, it is pruned to rejuvenate the violet. Use a sterile, sharp knife for this. Trim the top of the violet—the crown—then remove the flower stalks and a few lower leaves. These can be placed in a glass of water to allow them to take root.

Stepchildren appear in the leaf axils. These shoots rob the plant of nutrients, delaying flower production, and the compact bush grows larger and loses its appeal. To avoid accidentally removing flower stalks, wait until the shoots have grown.

Trim off weak, pale, dry, and old leaves. Over time, the stem grows and becomes bare, which spoils the flower's appearance. Repotting the violet can help correct this; the stem is buried in soil and compacted. You can cut off the rosette, leaving a 3-cm section of stem underneath. Place it in water until roots appear, then repot it in a new container with nutritious soil.

Reproduction of violets

Violets propagate by: rosettes, leaves, and seeds. Vegetative planting is preferred.

Replanting sockets

When a bush produces several offspring, they are transplanted to another container. They become crowded in a small pot, and the mother plant suffers in such conditions. To do this, remove the plant from the pot, carefully separate all the rosettes without damaging the root system. Each offspring is repotted into its own pot.

Propagation by leaves

Leaves are carefully cut from the plant, leaving no stumps (they can rot). Place them in water to encourage root growth. The petiole should be at least 4 cm long for planting. Dwarf varieties can have petioles up to 1.5 cm long. You can plant the leaf immediately after cutting it in a container with drainage and light soil (4:2:1 ratio of sand, soil, and peat). Cover with a glass jar and move the pot to a warm, dark place until germination occurs. Once rooting occurs, remove the jar.

Seed method

Sowing violet seeds occurs in the following order:

• prepare pots with soil, moisten the substrate;
• additionally water with a fungicide according to the instructions;
• the soil must dry out;
• make grooves 1 cm deep;
• sow the seeds and cover with soil;
• water the soil mixture;
• The container is transferred to a warm place until the seedlings appear.

At 25°C (77°F), sprouts will appear in 14-16 days. A temperature drop to 20°C (68°F)* will delay germination by 2 weeks.

It's recommended to pellet small Saintpaulia seeds before planting. This process makes the seeds larger and easier to plant. The seeds are soaked in water for two hours, then transferred to a container with crushed charcoal and shaken. The seeds are coated in charcoal dust, which acts as an antiseptic.

Caring for plants during flowering

With proper care, you won't have any problems with beautiful flowers. Violets begin to bud in late winter, and bloom in early spring. Rotate the pots 45 degrees every three days to prevent the Saintpaulias from falling over. Care for the flowers as before flowering. The main thing is to maintain a regular watering schedule and ensure the plant has access to light. During this time, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers will be needed.

Actions after flowering

Some violet species can bloom for 8-10 months a year. After a long blooming period, Saintpaulias need to rest. All their energy and resources, previously devoted to buds, are now focused on the growth of the upper tiers. To restore their strength, the plant is fed with potassium and nitrogen. This should be done no more than once a month.

What actions should be taken when flowers fade:

• old flower stalks are cut off, new ones are left;
• the rosette is transplanted into other soil, the basis of which can be sphagnum moss;
• the lower leaves are removed;
• When replanting, the trunk is deepened to the cuttings;
• add soil on top and water.

If the roots are damaged during planting, the violet will take about a month to recover. New flower stalks may appear after repotting; it's best to remove them. The violet needs time to rest, strengthen, grow new roots, and delight its owners with abundant blooms for many seasons to come.