Flies and midges are constant visitors to livestock farms and small households, and their populations must be constantly monitored. Large numbers of these insects can reduce chicken productivity. This can manifest itself in toxicity caused by the ingestion of potent hemolytic enzymes through multiple bites, leading to weakening and sometimes death.
Reasons why flies appear in a chicken coop and why they are dangerous
Flies overwinter as eggs, and adults lay their eggs in shaded, humid areas. If the run and chicken coop are located near a ravine, stream, or any other body of water, uninvited, buzzing guests are inevitable. Flies are active from early spring to late fall, morning and evening, but in large infestations, they fly around the chicken coop and run all day.
Attention!
Flies can be found in old trash or garbage, which is always damp, as well as food scraps. It's best to locate the poultry house at least 15 meters away from living quarters and pens containing other animals.
Flies thrive in a poultry house—they're well-fed and warm. In small numbers, they don't bother or harm the chickens; in fact, they serve as additional food. However, large swarms of flies can weaken a flock; the constant biting makes the birds restless, and laying hens don't need any extra stress. Chicks, pullets, and broilers are especially attractive to flies.
Flies and midges carry dangerous diseases, including leukocytosis, glanders, leprosy, tularemia, onchocerciasis, and anthrax. Treating adult chickens is very difficult, and young birds often die.
How to get rid of flies in a poultry house without harming your chickens
Control methods and means are selected based on the insect population. For small populations, it's best to use plant repellents or special traps made using traditional methods. Chemical treatments are only used in cases of excessive fly infestation.
Before using any method, remove the source of the problem, if possible (old logs, household waste, etc.). When getting rid of adult insects, don't forget about the eggs and larvae; they cannot be killed without strong chemicals; use long-acting products.
Folk remedies (traps and repellents)
To make the coop as unattractive as possible to flies, you can plant plants around it whose scent they dislike. For example, chamomile or pyrethrum, wormwood, tansy, basil, garlic, mint, and lemongrass. If sowing herbs isn't possible, gather them in bunches and hang them throughout the coop. Planted or hung herbs should be kept out of reach of chickens.
Another way to use wormwood is to dry a bunch of the herb, set it on fire, and fumigate the room. Leave the burning remains in a metal bucket to smoke, then leave the room for an hour. Before this procedure, remove the chickens from the coop, and close all windows and doors. For personal protection, wear goggles and a mask to prevent the smoke from entering your lungs.
Attention!
Flies are attracted to brightly colored sweets, so bright food coloring can be used to make bait liquids.
We won't cover every possible type of fly bait, as they all share the same principle. We'll highlight the most interesting and tried-and-true options.
| Method of struggle | Description |
| plastic bottle | The top of the bottle (with the shoulders) is cut off, and the resulting container is filled one-third with an insect-attracting solution: 1 part dishwashing liquid, 3 parts sugar, and 1 part apple cider vinegar. The lid is removed from the cut-off bottle, and a funnel is placed upside down in the container with the bait. The fly will be attracted by the scent, crawl into the trap, and be unable to escape. |
| Glass and cling film | Fill a glass or other container almost to the top with sweet bait, cover with plastic wrap, and secure it with thread or a rubber band. Use a knife or scissors to make small holes in the surface of the wrap so the fly can squeeze through and immediately sink into the bait. |
| Black pepper | Add 4 tablespoons of sugar and 2 tablespoons of ground black pepper to a glass of water, stir until the sugar is completely dissolved, and let sit for a couple of hours. Pour the solution into small containers and place them around the coop out of reach of the hens. Don't expect immediate results; the flies will die within 2 or 3 days after they try the bait. |
Essential oils can be used as repellents. Suitable extracts include clove, lavender, eucalyptus, lemongrass, and mint. The oils can be poured into bottle caps and placed in places out of the bird's reach, or mixed with water and sprayed on the walls around windows and doors, above perches, and above the bird feeder.
Mechanical methods of control
In the case of a chicken coop, a small number of flies means one or a couple dozen insects. While catching them by hand and swatting them with a fly swatter is extremely inconvenient, there's no need to use chemicals. A simple solution is special sticky strips. When hanging them in the coop, try to choose areas that are hard for chickens to reach and have plenty of light.
You can make your own sticky tape. Cut parchment paper into strips 2 cm wide, adjusting the length to your liking. Punch a hole in each strip and thread a string through it for hanging. For this method, it's recommended to prepare the following solution:
- take 1 part sugar and 2 parts maple syrup;
- Mix ingredients in a bowl, heat, but do not bring to a boil;
- stir until the sugar is completely dissolved and cool.
The strips are placed in a container with the prepared mixture, covered with a lid, and left for 10 to 12 hours to soak. Afterwards, the strips are dried briefly in the sun and hung in the chicken coop.
Attention!
It is not advisable to install mosquito nets in the chicken coop; chickens should be able to enter and exit the room without hindrance.
Special insecticidal lamps are available commercially. They work by attracting insects to the light, landing on an internal metal grate, and killing them with an electric shock. The device is safe for birds.
Proven chemical preparations
Before using any chemicals, take the chickens out of the room, remove their feed and water containers, and remove any "bath tubs" containing special mixtures. It's also a good idea to remove litter from the floor and perches. Here are the best products recommended by experienced poultry farmers:
- Agita is sprayed on walls exposed to sunlight or lamplight; the substance acts when heated. Granules can be scattered in areas inaccessible to birds. A working solution is prepared by mixing 25 grams of the product with 200 ml of warm water. Mix the solution thoroughly, pour it into a sprayer, and spray the area. The effect lasts for 2 months.
- Byte – granules are scattered on substrates where insects congregate. The insecticide attacks the pests 15–30 minutes after ingestion. Byte contains a sex pheromone and sugar, which attract flies, and is effective within a 1-meter radius. It also contains a bittering agent, which prevents birds from eating the granules. The bait lasts for 3 months.
- Delta Zone – the results are noticeable immediately after treatment, and the effect lasts for two months. Delta Zone has no strong chemical odor and is harmless to birds. To control adult flies, prepare a solution of 15 ml per liter of water, and to control larvae, use 15 ml per liter of water. Apply the solution to areas where flies congregate most, or to the entire room.
- Dobrokhim Micro is effective for 6 months after application, effectively killing flies and is safe for chickens. It harms not only adult flies but also larvae. Apply 7 ml of product per liter of water. Treat walls, window and door frames, and areas where flies congregate most.
- Medicil Ziper kills up to 97% of insects after the first treatment, and its effectiveness lasts up to 2 months. It even kills pests in open areas. To prepare a solution, use 4 ml of the product per liter of water and apply it to areas where flies are most common, walls, and openings (doors, windows).
When controlling flies in your chicken coop, don't try to cut corners. Some cheap products, despite their attractive descriptions, may not dissipate quickly. After treating the coop with any prescribed product, wait at least two hours before allowing the chickens back in. When handling chemicals, wear personal protective equipment—rubber gloves, goggles, and a mask.
Attention!
Flies quickly develop immunity to the same product, so choose a couple of options and alternate the medications.
Preventing flies in your chicken coop: tips and tricks
The main preventative measure is regular cleaning of the barn and run, ventilation, as flies hide from drafts. Change feed and water regularly (at least twice a day), and wash containers. The coop should be cleaned every seven days. Stale droppings and dampness under the litter are ideal conditions for all kinds of insects. The entire area should be kept clean, and garbage bins and compost heaps should be placed as far away from the coop as possible.
Flies are a must in areas near bodies of water, gullies, plantings, or close to unkempt areas. In this case, plant repellent plants behind the coop, set up several traps indoors and in the yard, and, as soon as the fly population begins to increase, immediately treat them with chemicals—there's no other option, unfortunately.
Finally, here's one more tip: during spring cleaning and disinfection of the coop, wash the windows, jambs, doors, and trays with water mixed with turpentine or castor oil. Flies will be discouraged, and the scent of these products will repel pesky guests.
Reviews
Evgeniya. We have flies in our chicken coop when the gardening season begins. There are water tanks behind the coop for watering; there's no other place for them. It's understandable—where there's water, there are flies. I hang tansy and mint branches in the coop and in the yard where the chickens roam, and I periodically treat the area with Agita, a product sold at veterinary pharmacies that kills not only flies but other insects as well.
Kristina. The coop and run are always clean, and despite the recommendations, I clean the chickens very frequently (2-3 times a week). There are a lot of flies and mosquitoes, and a small stream runs behind the area. We protect the birds from insects with bait, and we turn on insecticidal lamps and fumigators at night. In August, if there's a major infestation, we have to use chemicals. Last year I bought Dobrokhim, which produced good results, and I'm planning to try Byte this year.

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ANNA
WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT HERE? THERE'S NO WAY TO GET RID OF FLIES! THERE'S ONLY ONE WAY, UNLESS YOU HAVE ANIMALS, OF COURSE, AND VELOCK IS ALL.
Sergey
Now another question: what will happen to the chickens that eat the flies that die from the same AGITA? It turns out that the fly will contain this very poison and end up in the bird's stomach.