Pruning grapes in autumn and covering them for the winter

Grape

It's hard to argue that proper grape care is directly related to the quantity and quality of the future harvest. Particularly important is preparing for winter, as mistakes here can be very costly. Therefore, pruning grapes in the fall and covering them for the winter are among the most important care procedures that both novice and experienced growers should know. A proper winter start is the key to healthy vines and a bountiful harvest.

Reasons for pruning

First, it's important to clarify whether and why grapes need to be pruned for the winter. This procedure is very important for the plant, and there are several reasons for it.

Grapes are a rather delicate plant. and does not tolerate cold weather well. Severe frosts, under unfavorable circumstances, can completely destroy it, so many winegrowers prefer to protect the bush by covering it for the winter. Pruning helps to do this more effectively and also increases its frost resistance.

Necessary tools

Before you begin pruning your grape vines, it is a good idea to make sure you have the right tools to do the job. They will help carry out the procedure as quickly as possible. and effectively, which will simplify the gardener's task:

Garden saw. This tool, similar to a rounded saw, is typically used for rejuvenating older shoots that are too thick to be easily cut with pruning shears.
Pruning shears. One of the most important tools in a gardener's arsenal, they allow for easy pruning of thin branches and shoots. The main advantage of pruning shears is their ability to leave smooth, even cuts, which reduces damage to the plant.

Types of procedures

So, when the question is whether it is necessary pruning grapes for the winter, the answer has been received, it is necessary to understand the intricacies of the pruning itself. There are several types of this procedure., each of which pursues its own goals:

Formative pruning. This is performed while the plant is still very young—between one and three years old. As the name suggests, the purpose of this procedure is to shape the future grapevine. Furthermore, removing excess shoots strengthens the plant and helps it grow healthy and strong, which inevitably impacts the harvest.
Annual pruningA mandatory aspect of grapevine care that every winegrower will eventually master. It's performed on all vines that are four years old or older and is designed to help the grapes maintain their desired shape.
Rejuvenation pruning. This type of pruning is designed to replace old and decrepit shoots with fresher, younger ones. It is performed on mature bushes whose shoots have grown too large or have acquired excessively rotten wood.

Preparing for winter

Since grapes are not known for their frost resistance, it's crucial to ensure they transition properly into winter. There are several care options that will help properly prepare the plant and protect it during the most challenging times.

Suitable timing

Grape pruning can be done in either fall or spring. However, the latter option is more often used to remove frozen, broken, or diseased shoots, or in regions with harsh winters where this is not possible. cover the grapes.

A disadvantage of spring pruning is "tearing," which is associated with the difficulty of wound healing in grapes: if the vine is pruned at the very beginning of sap flow, "tears" will appear for a long time. Poor pruning can even result in the death of the plant. Therefore, in the spring, pruning is most often done on autumn seedlings or young plants that have not yet begun to bear fruit. This usually occurs in March, when temperatures have already reached at least +5°C.

Many people consider autumn pruning to be the most optimal, especially if it is accompanied by covering grapes for the winter.

It is usually carried out in two stages:

The first stage begins immediately after harvest. Once all the grapes have been harvested, the bush can be cleared of excess and weak shoots that are hindering development.
The second stage is the most important. It is carried out approximately two weeks after the plant has shed its leaves and begun preparing for winter. It is important to ensure that the air temperature does not fall below -3°C.

General scheme

Despite the many different types of pruning, the process for all of them is largely similar, differing only in details. It's important to remember that the procedure must be approached with well-sharpened tools. To avoid "chewing" of plant tissues and splitting of wood:

In temperate climates, winter pruning of grapevines begins with checking that all components have formed, with particular attention paid to the branches—the perennial shoots that form the fruiting core of the vine. The life cycle of these branches is approximately six years.
Broken branches, areas with obvious signs of disease, unripe green shoots and overly old branches must be removed.
The exact number of branches left may vary, but on average, 5 to 8 is considered optimal. It's important to ensure that they don't overcrowd the bush or shade each other.
When removing excess growth, you can use the number of buds as a guide. Typically, allowing for possible winter frosts, an excess of 80-120 buds is left. In the spring, after the bush opens up, the excess can be removed.

Pruning a perennial vine can be somewhat more difficult, especially if the vine hasn't been pruned before. However, there's a general guideline that will make the process easier:

It will be easier to implement if the grapes are attached to a trellis with wire or rope stretched at different distances.
At the beginning of autumn, after the harvest, young shoots that appear above the first tier - about half a meter above ground level - are removed.
Those shoots that have grown above the second tier - approximately 30 cm above the previous one - must be cut back by 10-15% of the total length and all lateral shoots must be cut off.
After the leaves have fallen, around mid-October, you need to select 2-3 of the strongest shoots at the level of the first and second tiers.
The shoot located below and on the outside of the sleeve will need to be pruned, leaving 3-4 fruiting buds on it. The resulting branch is called a replacement shoot.
The branch located above will also need to be trimmed, but leave more buds on it—around 5-12. This will be the future fruiting stalk.

Post-circumcision care

Winter pruning of grapes is an important part of care, but not the only one. In particular, it's essential to properly insulate the plant, as a pruned bush becomes even more sensitive to cold.

When is the best time to cover grapes? Many believe the best time is after the first frost, as covering the vine too early can cause it to rot, which will negatively impact its health.

Important!

However, it's important to keep in mind that the grapevine's root system cannot tolerate temperatures below -6°C. The above-ground portion of the plant is more resilient and can withstand temperatures as low as -9°C.

Young grapes require especially careful covering. After the plant has been pruned and treated with fungicides and antiparasitic agents, covering is carried out in two stages:

Hilling. A very simple covering method, it involves covering the lower part of the shoots with a moist layer of soil—this will help protect the roots from freezing. The resulting mound should be no higher than 30 cm.
Covering. There are many materials you can use to cover your grapes: plastic film, agrofibre, hay, straw, spruce branches, burlap, etc. Every winegrower has their own method for "wrapping" their grapes before winter, and this depends largely on the region and the severity of the local climate.

Healthy!

Grapes older than two years are a bit more difficult to cover due to their size. At the first frost, when the plant has hardened off a bit, it is removed from its supports and placed on a bed of dry leaves, spruce branches, or other material, pinned to the ground with iron staples, and then covered in any suitable manner.