Cucumbers "Satina f1": high yield and ease of cultivation

Satina F1 is a hybrid characterized by high yields and low maintenance. The variety was developed in 2007 by the Dutch company Nunhemus and was introduced to Russia in 2009. It is suitable for cultivation in the Lower Volga and North Caucasus regions. It can also be grown in northern regions. However, there's a chance that in this case, the yield will be lower than in the above-mentioned regions. The first cucumbers can be harvested as early as 35-40 days after germination.

Description of the bush and fruits

The female type of inflorescence predominates. The bush is medium-sized, 1-1.5 m tall, with a cluster-type ovary. The plant is indeterminate, meaning the ovary will not interfere with the growth of the main stem. Typically, 6 to 8 fruits are formed in a single bunch. The leaves are wide, bright green, and wavy at the edges. Yields are high – 4-5 kg ​​per 1 m.²Greenhouses, hotbeds, greenhouses, and open ground are suitable for planting.

Fruit:

• have a cylindrical, elongated shape;
• the weight of one cucumber is 80-100 g;
• length – 10-12 cm.

The shape is smooth, without any distortions. The bumps and pubescence are clearly visible. The skin is thin, without bitterness or voids. Small white seeds are visible when cut. White stripes 2 cm long can be seen along the fruit.

Cucumbers of this variety can be canned, pickled, or added to salads. The flavor is sweet, without being sour.

Growing seedlings

The cultivation technology is not much different from other varieties. First, determine the sowing date. This is usually mid-April. Sometimes earlier planting is recommended. The growing period is 20-30 days.

The container shouldn't be too tight to avoid damaging the plant's root system. Plastic yogurt or sour cream jars are ideal. Poke small drainage holes in them. Peat pots are also very popular and can be purchased at any flower shop.

Soil is a crucial element in seedling development. You can prepare it yourself or buy ready-made soil from a store. However, it's important to remember that store-bought soil may not be of the highest quality. For the soil, you'll need:

• turf soil;
• peat;
• sand;
• vermicompost (it can be replaced with compost).

After preparation, measure the soil's acidity and disinfect it, as it may harbor spores of harmful fungi. A solution of potassium permanganate is suitable as a disinfectant. Then, the soil should be fertilized with mineral fertilizers, as they promote root development and boost the plant's immunity. A common fertilizer that can be added is 90 grams of nitrophoska.

Planting in containers begins with creating a drainage hole. Then, add clean soil (approximately 2/3 of the container's capacity) on top. Place the cup of soil on a tray and allow excess water to drain. Place 2-3 seeds on the moistened soil. A little later, when they sprout, leave the one that develops fastest and best. Sprinkle the remaining soil on top of the seeds and compact them lightly. Some farmers recommend covering the cucumbers with plastic wrap, while others say this is harmful, as it increases the risk of excessive humidity.

Care and temperature conditions

Seedlings appear as early as five days after sowing. Therefore, the pot should be placed in a well-lit location. Insufficient light will negatively impact the quality of future cucumbers and cause them to become elongated.

Temperature is also very important. Insufficient heat can lead to the death of seedlings, so the initial temperature should not fall below 23-25°C. ^OAfter some time, the temperature can be lowered to 18-20°C. After a week, hardening can begin. To do this, take the pots outside or onto an open balcony to acclimate them to the cold temperatures. Start with 5 minutes a day, gradually increasing the time to 20-30 minutes.

Watering and top dressing seedlings:

1. The first watering can be done on the fifth day after the seedlings emerge. To prevent the soil from drying out during this time, mist it.
2. Excessive moisture should not be allowed, otherwise the root system will begin to rot.
3. Fertilizer is necessary if the soil has been insufficiently fertilized. Since cucumbers have a short development period, they can be grown without it.
4. If necessary, it's best to use wood ash. It's very beneficial for both seedlings and mature plants.

Fertilizer solutions should not be concentrated, otherwise there is a risk of burning the plant. After fertilizing, water the soil with clean water and apply a layer of mulch on top.

Repotting usually occurs on the 25th to 30th day, when the first 4-5 leaves have formed. Small holes are dug in the garden bed into which the plants will be transplanted. Peat cups are lowered to a depth of 30-40 cm, ensuring that the rim of the container is 1 cm above the soil surface. The plants are then watered with warm water.

If a plastic container was used for growing, it is necessary to bend the edges and the bottom (it can be cut beforehand), and then "push" the plant into the hole, but first it needs to be moisturized.

Further cultivation

The most common are tape and trellis growing methodsBut some farmers do it in a barrel. It does have a number of advantages.

1. Space-saving. Ideal for those with a small garden.
2. A simpler care system.
3. Convenient harvesting.

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The barrels will need to be prepared in advance. In the spring, after the snow melts, they should be filled with manure, food scraps, and grass. To speed up the fermentation process, you can add a little EM preparation. Hot water is poured over the mixture, covered with plastic wrap, and left for a week. Once the mixture has settled, the same procedure should be repeated several more times until early May.

In early May, the resulting mixture is covered with 10-15 cm of soil, scalded with boiling water, and disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate. Then, plant the seeds or seedlings and cover the barrel with plastic wrap. Gradually, begin installing the frames around which the loops will twine. Soon, the soil in the barrel will settle, and the loops will emerge and wrap around the frame. It's crucial to remember to water the plants regularly, but not too much. This method is also convenient because it eliminates the need for constant weeding and removal of weeds. pinch the plant.

Diseases

The Satina F1 variety is resistant to some diseases. However, they shouldn't be ruled out entirely. Poor care, insufficient water, or excessive amounts of water can seriously damage the entire crop. Therefore, despite pest control procedures, it's important to inspect the bushes, remove weeds, and weed the garden as often as possible.

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease triggered by cold temperatures. It first appears on the leaves and gradually spreads to the stems, flowers, and fruit. If pumpkins or squashes are grown near the affected plants, they are also at risk.

Symptoms include a barely noticeable white coating that forms on the underside of the leaf. Over time, this develops into large white spots that gradually darken and turn brown. The leaves curl and dry out. Activity: July – August.

Control measures:

• chemical preparations, for example, Privent, Novosil;
• spraying with soda solution;
• timely soil cultivation.

Like powdery mildew, downy mildew This is a fungal disease that attacks cucumbers, pumpkins, and squash. It is widespread in temperate climates and central Russia. It manifests as small, bright yellow spots that eventually develop into fuzzy patches. Active period: June–August. Control measures:

• disinfection of seeds before planting;
• treatment with urea solution;
• treatment with Bordeaux mixture.

Anthracnose, or copperhead, appears as wet, copper-colored ulcers on fruits and leaves. Besides cucumbers, this disease is also dangerous for grapes, watermelons, currants, and raspberries. It is a fungus that spreads rapidly in high temperatures.

Prevention: seed treatment before cultivation, removal of weeds and residues of other plants, crop rotation.

Pests

Don't underestimate them, as pests can cause just as much damage to plants as diseases. One of the biggest challenges in pest control is their small size. They become noticeable only after they've spread throughout a bush or area.

The root-knot nematode is a very insidious pest. It's small and attacks plant roots. However, it's not easy to spot, as its appearance closely resembles the plant's tissue. If nodules or small swellings are visible on the roots, examine them under a magnifying glass or microscope. Control measures: Infected plants should be immediately removed from the garden bed, quarantined, and treated with 5% formalin. The area from which the plant was removed can also be treated with the same solution. If even a few pests remain, the entire area must be disinfected.

Traps sold at flower shops are effective. However, you can also make your own. To do this, spread manure on plywood and place it around the area. Every two weeks, collect the mole crickets and burn them along with the plywood, then set up new ones.

Additionally, you can make a trap using hot pepper tincture. Pour the tincture into a bottle and bury it in the ground, leaving the rim exposed. Mole crickets will be drawn to the scent, climb into the bottle, and drown.

The cucumber gnat is a pest that causes the most damage to already diseased plants, especially those with weak root systems. It penetrates the plant's stems and destroys them from the inside. It's much easier to prevent the pest from appearing, but if it has already occurred, it's best to use chemicals, such as Iskra. Folk remedies can be effective, but they're too slow, and eliminating the gnat requires immediate action.

Reviews

The Satina F1 variety has proven itself in Russia. Our farmers have been happily planting it for 10 years and are happy to share their experiences and impressions with us.

Valentina Akushina, 45 years old

I've been growing Satina F1 for some time now. I really like it because it's resistant to many diseases. It's easy and simple to grow. I planted it in open ground and fed it with mineral fertilizer. I make my own, but I think store-bought ones would be just as good.

Ekaterina Markova, 47 years old

Satina performed very well! I bought it simply because the store recommended it. It really is very disease-resistant. Our region has high humidity, and I was very worried about fungus or rot, but no such luck. The harvest was plentiful and delicious.

Alexandra Paushina, 50 years old

I grow Satina cucumbers for canning and pickling. Everyone at home loves them. The cucumbers are sweet and crunchy. They retain their crunch even after canning! I plant them in a greenhouse, but despite this, the cucumbers are still very juicy. I water them as usual, every few days. They don't require any special care, so they're very convenient.

Satina F1 is a hybrid cucumber variety. It requires little maintenance and produces a bountiful harvest of delicious fruit.