Cucumber Claudia f1: description and characteristics, reviews

Klavdia F1 is a hybrid developed by Dutch specialists from the seed company Seminis. It is currently available in an improved version, registered in the Russian state register in 2008 under the name "Claudine F1" by the originator, Monsanto Holland BV (Holland). This cucumber variety was popular with farmers and received many positive reviews, so Russian companies continue to produce its seeds. Several hybrids (Partner F1, Klavdiya Agro F1) have been developed from it, and they continue to be developed today. The characteristics and descriptions with photos are similar in all of these cases, although there are some differences.

Description

Claudia f1 is a mid-season parthenocarpic hybrid (requires no pollination). It is grown both in greenhouses and open ground. The plant has long vines that easily twine around supports. The leaves are wrinkled and rich green. The root system is robust and well-developed. There are no barren flowers. The period from the first shoots to harvest is an average of 53 days. The yield is high, reaching 10 kg of cucumbers per square meter (22 lb) when grown outdoors and 20 kg per square meter (44 lb) when grown in greenhouses.

The cucumbers are smooth, cylindrical, and round in cross-section. They average 10 cm in length and 3 cm in diameter. They weigh 90 g each. The surface is ribbed, slightly pubescent, and rough to the touch. The skin is thin and tender, deep green with light stripes. It has a distinct, characteristic aroma. The flesh is dense and juicy, crisp, and pleasant to the taste. It is not watery and has no voids. Bitterness is uncommon. The seeds are small and barely noticeable.

Approximately 90% of the harvested cucumbers have an attractive presentation. They have excellent shelf life. They are resistant to damage and can be transported over long distances. Although Klavdia F1 is resistant to overgrowth and yellowing, the harvest should be picked frequently (up to twice a day). This stimulates the formation and ripening of new ovaries. The harvested cucumbers are versatile in their uses. They can be eaten raw, added to salads, salted, and pickled.

Landing

Hybrid seeds are not suitable for growing. The combination of improved parental characteristics is only evident in the first generation. Therefore, seeds must be purchased annually. The breeding process and difficulties in obtaining seed material explain their high cost. Commercial seeds are often brightly colored. This unusual color indicates that the seeds are coated with a special coating containing nutrients and pesticides. This coating increases germination and increases the likelihood of a bountiful harvest. These seeds do not require any preparation before planting; they are planted directly into the soil.

Preparing the beds

For every square meter of soil, add 1/2 bucket of humus, 2 cups of ash, and 2 cups of bone meal, then till the soil. The last two ingredients enrich the soil with potassium, which vegetables need most. When forming raised beds, add half-rotted compost, dry grass, or shredded branches from bushes and trees to the soil below. This ensures warmth for the plant's roots and promotes healthy growth. Cover this layer with prepared soil.

Growing seedlings and planting in a greenhouse

Soil for growing seedlings can be purchased at the store or made at home. In the latter case, mix:

• 2 kg of sawdust;
• 4 kg of humus;
• 4 kg of peat;
• 2 tbsp. ash.

Seeds for seedlings are sown a month before transplanting (in early April). The difficulty with growing cucumbers from seedlings is that their roots are delicate and easily damaged. To avoid this, experienced farmers grow the seedlings in paper cones (a bottle is wrapped in paper, the resulting cylinder is secured with paper clips, and then filled with soil) or in peat-humus pots. The seeds are placed at a depth of 3 cm and covered with soil.

After planting the seeds, it's important to prevent the soil from drying out. It's usually moistened by misting with a spray bottle. For proper seedling growth and development, the room temperature should be 20°C. If adequate lighting is not available, use phytolamps. These prevent the seedlings from becoming leggy and help them grow stronger.

After 25 days, the seedlings are planted in a greenhouse, placing the bags in holes of the same depth. The cucumbers are then watered generously. This quickly causes the paper in the soil to become soggy and rot. This allows the plant roots to grow through the paper without damage. The moist bed is mulched with chopped grass clippings. This helps retain moisture for a long time.

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Sowing seeds in open soil

Cucumbers are planted In wind-protected areas. The optimal row height in this case is 25 cm and the width 80 cm. Sow the seeds in late May or early June in a furrow moistened with warm water to a depth of 3 cm, maintaining a distance of 25 cm between seeds. Finally, cover the bed with plastic wrap or agrospan.

In cool climates where frosts are still possible in early summer, hoops are installed over the beds. Cucumbers are kept under cover until the cold weather subsides. Since Claudia F1 is sensitive to sunlight, corn is planted between the beds to provide shade to prevent sunburn. Corn seedlings are spaced 40 cm apart in the row. Tall plants can act as a trellis for cucumber vines.

Further care

Claudia F1 requires shaping. The top of the main stem is pinched when it reaches 1 m in open ground or 1.2 m in a greenhouse. Lateral shoots are pinched at 0.5 m. These will later become secondary shoots. These shoots are not allowed to grow longer than 15 cm. This is necessary to ensure a good harvest. On larger shoots, the ovaries turn yellow and fall off, as the cucumbers devote energy to growth rather than to the development and ripening of the cucumbers.

The plant is watered daily at the root, being careful not to wet the tops. This is done in the evening or morning. Typically, farmers create a 5-cm-deep furrow 30 cm from the cucumbers and add water. Some gardeners use drip irrigation, which is especially helpful in water-scarce conditions. It uses minimal water, and the moistened soil stays moist longer. Each plant receives at least 3 liters of water.

During rainy and cool weather, cover the holes with plastic film. If this is not possible, stop watering. During prolonged cold spells, use Epin-Extra. Sprinkle the irrigation furrow with chopped grass. This prevents water from splashing, and the decomposing bio-material will provide nutrients to the cucumbers.

Top dressing

The first feeding is done at the end of the first ten days of June, and the second 10 days after the first. Add 1 teaspoon of urea and the same amount of superphosphate and potassium sulfate to a bucket of water. Two liters of liquid are poured under each plant. Experienced farmers try not to overdo it with fertilizer, as too much can negatively affect flower and ovary formation, and the foliage itself will become fat.

During fruiting, cucumbers are fed Three times, with 10-day intervals. To prepare the fertilizer, use one of the following recipes:

1. Mix 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska with 1 liter of manure and dilute in a bucket of water. Apply 1500 ml of liquid per bush.
2. Mix 1 tablespoon of urea with 3 tablespoons of ash and 1 teaspoon of sodium humate, dilute in 100 ml of hot water, and then pour into a bucket of room-temperature water. Apply 2 liters of liquid per bush.
3. Dilute 1 tablespoon of azophoska in a bucket of water. Consumption: 2 liters per plant.

All root feedings are carried out between 10:00 and 12:00 a.m. Some gardeners also apply foliar feeding to cucumbers. Cloudy weather is required for this procedure. The growing season is irrelevant. The solution is prepared as follows: 5 g of superphosphate, 2 g of nitrate, and 4 g of potassium salt are dissolved in 5 liters of water. The application rate is 1 liter per plant.

Diseases

Claudia F1 is a hybrid with high phytoimmunity, so growing it typically doesn't present any problems. However, significant violations of agricultural practices and unfavorable weather conditions can lead to the development of the following diseases:

1. Root rot. It is accompanied by yellowing and cracking of the lower shoots, and wilting of the above-ground portion of the plant. The disease can be treated by sprinkling the affected areas with wood dust and irrigating the tops and soil with copper sulfate. Do not loosen the soil until the plants are completely healthy.
2. Green mosaic. This disease causes diseased plant parts to turn yellow and shrivel. The solution is to replant the affected plants. Crop rotation helps prevent recurrence.
3. Powdery mildew. A light-colored coating appears on the leaves, which dry out and fall off. As the disease progresses, the entire vine dies. To combat powdery mildew, specialists treat the foliage with a soap solution containing washing soda. In severe cases, fungicides are used. All affected areas are removed and the frequency of nitrogen fertilization is reduced.
4. White mosaic. White or yellowish spots with characteristic star-shaped markings appear on the leaves. There are no effective treatments for this disease, so affected plants are dug up and burned.

Reviews

Gennady, 48 years old

I planted Klavdiya F1 for the first time on a neighbor's advice, and I haven't regretted it. The quality of the fruit is simply excellent. They're delicious both fresh and pickled. Two years ago, I learned that you can add cucumber leaves to the soil when forming the beds. They trap the cold coming from the unheated ground, and as they decompose, they enrich the soil with selenium. I was pleased with the results of the experiment. The cucumbers grew faster, and the harvest was bountiful.

Inna, 35 years old

I'm completely satisfied with the Claudia hybrid and have no plans to change it for anything else. I love the fruit's pleasant flavor and lack of bitterness. I'm especially pleased with its culinary versatility. When caring for cucumbers, I don't make my own fertilizers or mix any ingredients. I simply buy "Ideal," dilute it at 500 ml per 5 liters of water, and water the plants with it. I always get a good harvest.

The advantages of Klavdia F1 include high yields, low maintenance, pleasant vegetable flavor, and the ability to be used for pickling. The only drawbacks are the inability to grow plants from self-collected seeds and susceptibility to mosaic and powdery mildew. Therefore, the hybrid's advantages far outweigh its disadvantages.