Cymbidium Orchid: Variety Description and How to Grow It at Home

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Cymbidium is a fairly popular orchid species. To date, between 70 and 100 hybrids of this orchid have been bred, more than 60 of which are suitable for indoor gardening. This beautiful plant is native to Australia and can be found in the mountainous regions of Indochina. It thrives in subtropical climates and is also found in some regions of Asia, India, and Japan. The epiphyte itself was discovered by a Swedish scientist in the 19th century.

Characteristics of plant varieties and types

Any orchid grower, when describing this variety, will first note its long flowering period and wonderful fragrance. The scent is a distinctive feature of this flower: strong, fragrant, yet incredibly pleasant. Blooming can last from 1.5 to 3 months.

It lacks a bulb, like many members of this family, but it does have a pseudobulb. These are oval, green, and located next to each other. The pseudobulb itself is located at the base of the plant and provides the plant with moisture. The leaves, like the calyxes, are elongated: rounded, elongated at one end, or pointed.

Please note.

Flower stalks are located in the center and can be erect or drooping. They have multiple inflorescences and vary in color.

The most common colors:

cream;
yellow;
pink;
brown;
green;
red.

Types:

Dwarf Cymbidium is distinguished by its small, usually ovoid, pseudobulbs, 2-3 cm long. It has thin, pointed leaves and upright flower stalks. It attracts attention with its reddish-brown coloring with yellow edges and blooms primarily in winter.
Ivory orchids are distinguished by their yellowish-white flowers and yellow spots on the lips. Eburneum, as this orchid species is also known, is pleasantly scented and prefers a temperate climate. The flowers are large, up to 7.5 cm in diameter. They begin blooming in spring.
Cybmidium tracyi has bright yellow flowers with reddish-brown stripes. The raceme itself can grow up to a meter long, making this species popular in flower shops. The lip is often wavy.
Cymbidium hybrid has many subspecies.
Cymbidium aloefolia is a short plant that blooms from spring to fall. It has stiff leaves and brownish flowers, 4-5 cm in diameter.
Cymbidium ampelosum is a long-loved mix from Asian countries. It's planted on windowsills.
Cymbidium lanceolata typically grows up to 50 cm in length. The flowers are not very large, with a peduncle length of 30-40 cm. The flowers are green or light green in color, with a white lip.
Lowie has large, greenish flowers and yellow petals. It blooms in winter and has long leaves. It typically grows to a meter, but specimens measuring just over a meter have been observed.
Deya. The flower stalk of this species usually droops downwards. The flowers themselves are small, pale cream in color, and have a burgundy or pale yellow lip.
Cymbidium cascade has flower stalks with a special structure.
Cymbidium mini grows up to 60 cm in height. It has unique flower colors.

Cymbidium Orchids: Home Care

The Cymbidium orchid is not the most demanding orchid, but like all varieties, it does require some care. Lighting is a fundamental factor. Cymbidium orchids thrive in direct sunlight. Therefore, the plant should be placed in the brightest spot with access to light. Regular ventilation is recommended. However, keep in mind that hybrids cannot stand in direct sunlight for too long. In winter, the use of special lamps is recommended. When ventilating the room, be careful not to expose it to drafts, as the plant is sensitive to them. Insufficient light will cause the plant's leaves to droop.

Air humidity is another important factor. It's impossible to harm the plant with high humidity, as Cymbidiums naturally thrive in this climate. At home, however, humidity should be maintained at 40-50%.

It's also important to water the Cymbidium properly and keep the soil slightly moist. If the soil isn't sufficiently watered, the pseudobulbs will shrivel, which is absolutely unacceptable. Water the Cymbidium orchid generously with room-temperature water, but the water shouldn't be hard.

Advice.

To prevent rotted spots from forming on the leaves after watering, it's important to ensure that water doesn't stagnate in the tray afterward. Water once a week during the summer, and reduce to twice a month in the winter.

Temperature is also crucial. Cymbidium requires a cool room with fluctuating temperatures. The temperature should be between 16-20 degrees Celsius, but it should be lower at night than during the day. Owners often move Cymbidium outdoors during the summer. The temperature fluctuations trigger the plant to bloom. However, this dwarf hybrid tolerates normal room temperatures well.

It's best to choose Cymbidium soil from a specialist store, making sure to use orchid-grade soil. Fertilize with mineral fertilizers regularly every two weeks. However, it's best to use half the concentration used for orchids. Water the plant before fertilizing. Once the Cymbidium has bloomed, temporarily stop fertilizing. Fertilizing is also prohibited if the plant is diseased.

After flowering, the flower stalk should be trimmed. Use a disinfected knife or a special gardening tool for this. You can force a Cymbidium to bloom by following all these guidelines. To encourage a flower to emerge from the stalk, create a temperature difference, ensure the plant receives sunlight, and mist it. When the plant reaches 10-15 cm, begin fertilizing. If the Cymbidium still doesn't bloom, it's due to improper care. When the flower stalk reaches 15-20 cm, provide it with support.

Reproduction at home

The most common method is division. To do this, remove the orchid from the pot, clean the roots, and divide it into several parts. Each part should have several green roots and one brown one. If any roots appear rotted or dry, remove them and let them dry. Treat any torn areas with activated charcoal.

Please note.

Then the divided sections should be planted in suitable soil and grown in a warm location. The first fresh leaves indicate that the plant has taken root.

Dividing by cuttings – the divided rhizome should contain about three pseudobulbs and a couple of shoots. Replant the cuttings in separate pots and water regularly. The plant will soon produce new shoots.

Pups – a repotted Cymbidium needs to be moved to a warmer location at home (after the dormant period has passed). It's also important to mist the leaves and fertilize the orchid properly.

Even an old, leafless bulb can be propagated. Place it on damp moss to create a greenhouse. Regularly maintain humidity and ventilate the bulbs. Once sprouts appear, transplant the Cymbidium orchid into a pot. From there, simply care for the plant. A flower propagated this way will bloom in four years.

It's impossible to grow Cymbidium from seeds indoors. There's no need to buy seeds when shopping, as seeds are sown only in a laboratory setting.

Cymbidium repotting and growing problems

Cymbidiums require repotting every two years. Since this orchid species doesn't like being moved, there must be a reason for doing so. Most often, this is due to compaction of the soil or a pot that has become too small. Repotting is also recommended if the base of the root system has rotted, the root system itself is damaged, or the plant has been attacked by pests. Remove the orchid carefully, without any sudden movements, as the flower is very delicate.

Remove old pseudobulbs, clear the plant of any dead roots, and then replant it exactly in the center. Avoid planting the plant too deeply, otherwise the pseudobulbs will quickly rot. After repotting, place the plant in partial shade and avoid watering for the next few days. However, in hot weather, monitor the humidity, mist, and water the plant.

Important!

For repotting, you can choose clay, glass, ceramic, or plastic pots. When choosing, keep in mind that roots tend to grow to the edges of ceramic pots, which can cause damage during subsequent repotting. The new pot should be a few centimeters wider than the previous one.

What problems are encountered when growing Cymbidiums:

The leaves are turning black. Black spots typically appear at the base of the leaves. Most likely, the plant is overwatered, as these spots form due to overwatering. It's important to water the plant properly, and keep in mind that the root rot may also be present in this case.
Leaves are turning yellow. Yellowing leaves are caused by a lack of moisture or the presence of pests. Monitor watering, spray the plant if necessary, and check for signs of pests.
Flowers or buds are falling off. This happens if a flowering plant is sprayed in a cool room. As in previous cases, you should monitor watering and temporarily stop fertilizing.
Pseudobulbs are shriveled. This indicates a lack of proper care. This is usually due to irregular watering. The time between waterings should be reduced, but watering itself should be regular. Note that older pseudobulbs should naturally be shriveled.
Root rot. Root rot is usually caused by mistakes made when repotting into a pot that's too large. To fix this, create drainage for the roots. Water regularly, but don't allow water to stagnate in the tray.

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Root rot is a disease that occurs when Cymbidiums are kept in a cool room for long periods of time. It can also develop if watering is not properly followed. The disease begins in the leaves, progresses to the root system, and ultimately dies.

Gray mold affects leaves, the soil surface, and petals if the plant is in bloom. It occurs when the plant is kept in a cold, humid environment.

Anthracnose is a yellow or black spot on the leaves. It is caused by a virus, which is why it is also known as mosaic virus. It impairs orchid growth and is incurable. Maintain proper plant hygiene and ensure the orchid does not infect its neighbors.

Fusarium wilt – the leaf becomes soft, curls, and becomes covered with a coating. Swollen leaves – this occurs if the plant is left in cold temperatures after watering. A watery shell initially forms, gradually progressing to rot.

Pests you can easily recognize:

Spider mites. They are incredibly fond of orchids and appear in dry air. The presence of white webbing on leaves and stems indicates the presence of this arthropod.
Scale insects and thrips feed on the sap of the Cymbidium plant and are caused by low humidity and high room temperatures. They appear as brown growths on the leaves of the flower stalk.
Aphids—their specialty is their ability to colonize the undersides of leaves. This weakens the plant, leaving it susceptible to viruses.
Mealybugs appear on the leaves and are light yellow, or very rarely, almost orange. Cotton-like spots appear on the surface.

Please note.

If your orchid's roots have rotted, you can try to revive it. Trim away the rot completely, reaching the leaves. If the pseudobulb and leaves are intact, the plant has a chance of survival.

Treat the remaining pruned areas with activated charcoal, and let the orchid rest for 2-3 days. Then, spray the plant with foliar fertilizer, and the cut areas with a few drops of succinic acid. Place the plant in damp moss in a warm location. Results may be noticeable after several months. Many gardeners also resuscitate Cymbidiums without roots, by growing them. In a closed space, place the plant so that the root system is on top and the leaves are underneath, creating a kind of greenhouse. Spray the roots twice a week. Once the roots have grown, repot the plant.