Peculiarities of growing bell peppers in the Urals

The heat-loving sweet pepper has successfully established itself in Russian garden plots. Despite the short summers and harsh climate, even gardeners in the Urals and Siberia are growing bell peppers. By choosing the right varieties and providing them with proper care, you can reap an excellent harvest of healthy and tasty vegetables.

Climatic features of the regions

The crop requires warmth, and at first glance, growing a good fruit harvest in the Ural and Siberian climate seems impossible. Gardeners have found a solution: planting the plants in shelters, using seedlings, and extending daylight hours.

The climates of Siberia and the Urals vary. While summer temperatures in the southern regions reach 20°C and above, in the north, average temperatures hover around 8-9°C. Even under cover, plants lack light and warmth, and the long growing season prevents fruit from ripening.

Breeders have developed cold-resistant, high-yielding sweet pepper varieties specifically for these regions, producing a harvest during the short summer. Even in moderate temperatures and with sharp fluctuations in temperature, these heat-loving plants produce fruit and yield very good yields.

To achieve good results, gardeners must start sowing early and provide the plants with thorough care. But the end result is usually pleasing, and how can homemade peppers compare in taste to store-bought ones?

Features of agricultural technology

Basic care techniques are standard. Successful cultivation and overall crop yield are largely determined by the quality of the seedlings, so it's crucial to sow the seeds at the right time and grow strong, healthy seedlings.

Timing of sowing and growing seedlings

Peppers are plants with a long growing season. In temperate and harsh climates, seeds grown from seedlings are sown early, typically mid- to late February. It is recommended to use seeds from early or mid-season hybrids and varieties.

Key preparatory activities:

• sorting;
• soaking for disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate (up to 15-20 minutes);
• germination in tissue (seeds swell within 12-16 hours);
• sowing.

Planting is practiced by sowing directly into individual containers (cups, pots), as well as into shared containers and boxes. The soil is prepared in advance using store-bought soil mixes or homemade ones. The soil for seedlings should be loose and fertile.

Peppers don't tolerate transplanting well, so seeds are often sown directly into individual containers, adding soil as the seedlings grow. The temperature should be at least 24ºC (75ºF) before sprouting, and then lowered to 18ºC (64ºF) to 20ºC (64ºF) after sprouting. This prevents the seedlings from becoming too tall. After about 4-5 days, temperatures reach a stable 22ºC (72ºF) to 24ºC (75ºF).

When planting in common containers, transplant when 2-3 true leaves appear. It's best to transplant with a clod of soil to avoid damaging the seedling roots. Peppers receive a long daylight period (13-14 hours) by installing grow lights or LED lamps near the seedlings. Fluorescent lamps suspended above the seedlings are also suitable.

Water the seedlings in the morning with warm, settled water. It's convenient to moisten the soil with a spray bottle, but avoid getting the pepper leaves and shoots wet. To prevent blackleg, it's recommended to water the seedlings once or twice with a solution of potassium permanganate (slightly pink in concentration).

Fertilize 2-3 times after watering. Use ready-made complex seedling formulas (Kemira, Agricola), multi-component fertilizers containing essential micro- and macronutrients.

Approximate schedule:

• The first application of fertilizer is 12-14 days after transplanting or the formation of the first true leaf. Dissolve a tablespoon of urea in 10 liters of water and feed the seedlings;
• the second time - after 10 days, with diluted superphosphate (the proportions are the same as for the first feeding with urea);
• the third time - if necessary, with ash infusion or superphosphate.

Fourteen to 16 days before planting, pepper seedlings in the Urals begin acclimating to the new conditions. The seedlings are brought outdoors: to a balcony, loggia, or veranda. During the first few days, hardening-off lasts 20-30 minutes, then gradually increases the time, and on warmer days, the peppers are left outdoors for the entire day.

Preparing the beds

The soil is prepared in the fall, keeping in mind that the plant prefers fertile, well-drained soil. It is recommended to plant in soil with a neutral pH of 6-6.6. The plants are sensitive to excess nitrogen, so fresh manure should not be added.

Recommended compositions (applied in autumn):

• humus – 5-10 kg (depending on soil type);
• superphosphate – 60 g;
• Potassium supplements - 25 g.

The norms are given per square meter of planting. Do not plant this crop after any members of the Solanaceae family. Also, avoid close proximity to potatoes and tomatoes. Avoid planting sweet and spicy varieties together, as cross-pollination is possible, and the fruits of the sweet variety will taste bitter.

Sweet peppers: planting and initial care of seedlings in the Urals and Siberia

Seedlings are planted after hardening off, when stable warmth sets in. In Siberia and the Urals, even when planted in greenhouses, peppers are covered with non-woven material. The soil should warm to 16ºC.

Maintain the distances between holes:

• for medium-sized peppers – 20-30 cm;
• for large-fruited indeterminate species – 40-60 cm.

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Small and compact plants can be planted close together, leaving a distance of 10-15 cm between bushes. Plants should not be planted too deep, but at the same depth at which the seedlings grew in pots or cups.

Planting should be done only in the evening or on a cloudy day, with mandatory soil irrigation and subsequent mulching. Since the roots of the plant do not tolerate transplanting well, even with a clod of soil, the plants are shaded from the sun during the first few days. In a greenhouse, arches with additional cover are often installed, but on hot June days, this protection should be removed.

Caring for the crop

Further care includes basic agricultural techniques:

• irrigation;
• top dressing;
• loosening and mulching;
• bush formation (depending on the variety);
• preventive treatment of plantings.

The plant prefers moist soil but does not tolerate excess moisture. Maintaining soil moisture is especially important for thick-walled peppers, otherwise the pericarp will become thin and rough. Peppers require more moisture during these periods:

• after planting in a permanent place;
• before flowering;
• fruit formation.

Water frequently, in small amounts, taking into account weather conditions. Hot weeks are common in the region, so it's important to maintain a regular watering schedule, preventing the soil from drying out. Prolonged droughts can cause the plants to lose flowers and fruit.

The water temperature for irrigation should be at least 22ºC, with settling beforehand. Don't water garden plants directly from a well. Any water should be settled, heated, and only then used for irrigation. Drip irrigation systems in garden beds and greenhouses provide good results.

After watering, loosen the soil between the rows, being careful not to disturb the roots. Pepper roots are located in the surface layer and, if damaged, are difficult to regenerate, thereby slowing the growth of the plants. It's advisable to mulch the soil immediately after transplanting, thereby eliminating the need for constant loosening of the beds.

Mulch:

• mown grass;
• humus;
• peat;
• green manure.

A mulch layer of up to 10 cm will prevent the soil from drying out and weeds from appearing. The soil will not settle or become waterlogged after watering, preventing a surface crust from forming. Mulching with green manure, which gradually decomposes, provides plants with an additional dose of beneficial nutrients.

During the growing season, the crop is fertilized several times using organic and mineral fertilizers. The total number of fertilizations per season is 3-4, with a recommended rotation of root application and foliar application.

Fertilizer application recommendations:

• The first feeding is 18-20 days after planting. Suitable substances include diluted poultry manure (1:20), mullein (1:10), and fermented green grass infusion (1:10);
• after 10-12 days, feed the peppers with diluted superphosphate (3 tablespoons per bucket of water);
• another top dressing is superphosphate in the same proportion and potassium supplements (15-20 g).

They monitor the plants and, if there is a deficiency of some element, promptly add it to the fertilizer.

Signs of starvation in peppers:

• pale color of leaves, slow growth – lack of nitrogen;
• yellowing of the upper tier of foliage, dying off of growth points – calcium deficiency;
• the appearance of a yellowish border on the leaf blades, browning of the leaves - the plants lack potassium;
• wrinkling of leaves, the appearance of a bluish-purple color on the surface - phosphorus deficiency.

The deficiency of potassium and calcium is compensated by adding wood ash, calcium nitrate, potassium magnesium sulfate; in case of phosphorus deficiency, the addition of superphosphate is indicated.

In addition to fertilizing and irrigation, the plant requires staking and bush training. Low-growing plants do not require side shoots, but large-fruited pepper varieties are grown with mandatory staking and shoot training. Stakes and trellises are used for support. To encourage branching, the growing points of the peppers are pinched (around late July or early August). This promotes rapid ripening of existing fruit and limits the production of new sets that may not ripen.

During cultivation, shoots growing below the main fork of tall bushes are removed several times. Branches that thicken the bush's crown are also removed.

Plants bloom constantly, so closer to autumn it is recommended to remove some of the flowers, which take away nutrition from the developing ovaries.

Harvesting

Fruit ripening depends on the variety. The pods are harvested at the technical ripeness stage (green, whitish), as well as when fully ripe. Approximately, the ripening period begins in early August, but the exact time is determined by growing conditions and weather.

The fruits are cut and removed along with the stems. Harvesting is regular, as they ripen, every 3-4 days. Unripe peppers ripen well at home.

The best varieties for the Urals and Siberia

In the challenging conditions of risky farming zones, it is recommended to grow early and mid-season varieties. Bell peppers adapted to the local climate, bred by Ural breeders, are in demand. Hybrids bred abroad are also successfully cultivated by gardeners.

Greenhouse varieties

This list includes varieties of the crop that are resistant to temperature fluctuations, infections, and pests. These plants are vigorous and produce good yields, but require careful care.

Among them:

• Montero is an early hybrid of Dutch selection. First generation, designated F1. Ripens in 100 days, with an additional 15-20 days required for full biological maturity. The plant is tall, up to two meters, with abundant foliage. The peppers are prismatic, dense, and massive, weighing up to 240-260 g. The pericarp is 6-8 mm. Value: high yield, excellent taste;
• The Pioneer pepper has a low yield, but it will delight you with its excellent flavor. It is prized for its resistance to extreme growing conditions and compact size. The bushes reach 50-60 cm in height, producing conical fruits that are initially cream-colored, later turning bright red. Inside, there are 3-4 chambers. Full maturity occurs in 116 days.
• Kakadu is a productive F1 hybrid from Gavrish. It is distinguished by its high yield and resistance to adverse conditions. It produces well in greenhouses. The fruits are unusually shaped for a sweet pepper – elongated, reminiscent of hot pepper pods. They are 25-30 cm long and weigh 400-500 g. The flesh is fleshy and has a pleasant sweet taste. Recommended for salads and slicing.
• Red Bull is a mid-early variety, ripening in approximately 95-110 days. It tolerates low light, does not drop ovaries, and forms fruit quickly. The peppers are large, cuboid, up to 25-30 cm long. They weigh 250-300 g, with some specimens reaching 350-400 g. The skin is thin, glossy, and a rich red color. The walls are 9-10 mm thick, and there are four chambers. One of the best varieties for canning and freezing.
• Yellow Bull – identical in description to Red Bull, but at full biological maturity, the fruits acquire a bright yellow-orange color. This variety is prized for its suitability for long-term storage without loss of appearance or flavor;
• Claudio is a Dutch F1 hybrid that has adapted well to temperate climates. When planted in greenhouses, it produces record yields even in the Urals and Siberia. It is disease-resistant and has an excellent taste. The bushes are strong and vigorous, with numerous dark green leaves. Each plant produces 12-14 peppers. The peppers are large, prism-shaped, weighing 250-280 g. The seed chambers are dense, with four in each fruit. The pericarp is 8-10 mm, juicy, and sweet. The color at full ripeness is red. Use: fresh, heat-treated, frozen, marinated, canned.
• Casablanca F1 is a sweet hybrid from the "Northern Spain" series by Russian Garden. It is prized for its high fruit set and excellent flavor. The peppers are beautiful, massive, and thick-walled. They are diced and bright yellow. Recommended for indoor planting. Ripening time is early, with germination to full maturity taking 93-100 days. This variety is resistant to the TM virus.

Varieties for open ground

Descriptions indicate that these peppers grow well in open ground. However, if possible, cover the plants with non-woven fabric and create arches in the beds to prevent damage to the crop due to possible cold snaps.

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Popular varieties and hybrids:

• Novosibirsk pepper is an excellent member of the sweet pepper family, distinguished by its rapid ripening time. The peppers are red, fleshy, and weigh up to 180 g. They are prismatic in shape, grow upward, and have a pericarp diameter of 6 mm. They are suitable for all types of processing. They yield 6-10 kg per 1 m (in greenhouses); yields are lower in open-air conditions.
• Veselinka is a high-yielding sweet pepper variety. It grows well in garden beds and is disease-resistant. The peppers are small, cylindrical, weighing up to 60-75 g. The flesh is sweet without bitterness. The skin is green at technical maturity, gradually turning yellow as it matures. Yield: 6-6.2 kg/m3.
• Sultan is a variety from Siberian breeders. It produces cone-shaped peppers weighing up to 100 g. It is highly resistant to cold and stress, and is not susceptible to the main diseases of the crop. The fruits are red, fleshy, with a 5-7 mm pericarp;
• Triton is a low-growing variety with good yields. Bushes reach 35-50 cm in height and require no pruning. The fruits are small, weighing 100-120 g, with walls 3-5 mm thick. They have a good flavor and a pleasant aroma. The peppers are initially yellow, then red. They are used in all types of processing, including salads.
• Bogatyr is a mid-season variety developed by Poisk. It ripens in 120 days. Fruits have 2-4 chambers and walls 6-8 mm thick. They are fully ripe when they turn red, but are also harvested while green, at technical maturity. Yields reach 6 kg/m3. It is valued for its ease of care, resistance to major infections, sweet flavor, and ability to set fruit in low light.
• Siberian Bonus is an early-ripening pepper prized for its delicious fruit and distinctive orange color. Each pepper weighs 250-300g, and 12-15 peppers form per bush. Gardeners appreciate this hybrid's particularly tender flesh and its decorative qualities.
• Siberian Format – perfect for lovers of large-fruited peppers. The bushes are strong and sturdy, each producing 8-10 fruits. The peppers are cube-shaped, red, and thin-skinned. They have excellent flavor. Uses: salads, slicing, and freezing.
• Kupets is a Siberian-bred variety. It features small, standard-type plants and high yields. It is resistant to temperature fluctuations.
• Ivory is a low-growing variety, ideal for planting in the open ground. Bred specifically for Siberia and the Urals, it is high-yielding (up to 3 kg/m). The shape is elongated, conical, and grows downward. The fruit walls are up to 8 mm thick. The skin is initially greenish-white, later turning red. Reviews of the taste are positive, noting the tenderness and pleasant sweetness of the flesh.
• The Golden Pyramid is a sweet pepper from the West Siberian Vegetable Breeding Station. The bushes are medium-height and leafy. Each produces 8-10 pods. When fully ripe, the peppers are bright yellow and weigh 109-112 g. Yields in beds are 3-3.2 kg/m.

Summer residents celebrate the following sweet pepper varieties: Mustang, Apple Spas, Viking, Eastern Bazaar, and Siberian Valenok.

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Reviews

Tatyana, Tyumen

I grow sweet peppers exclusively in a greenhouse. I really like the Montero and Claudio hybrids, and of our own, I prefer the tried-and-true Winnie-the-Pooh variety. I plant them in fertile soil, water them, feed them with ash, and always cover them, even in the greenhouse. I like these varieties because they're disease-resistant, produce a bountiful harvest, and are easy to care for.

Sergey, Nizhnevartovsk

I inherited a dacha from my parents, so I had to start growing vegetables. I've really taken a liking to sweet peppers, and I only plant varieties bred in Siberia. They're more cold-hardy and produce well. I don't have manure, so I compost, create warm beds, and cover the peppers with arches and plastic. They produce fruit right up until the cold weather sets in, and they're easy to care for; some even ripen right under the plastic. With a little effort, we always have peppers, even during the colder seasons.

Although sweet peppers are considered a heat-loving crop, gardeners in the Urals and Siberia successfully grow them in their plots. For high yields, it's recommended to select early varieties suitable for temperate climates.