During the autumn-winter season, a period of particular lack of sunlight and daylight, there is a need for home lighting. seedlingsThis article, quite appropriately, will discuss DIY lighting for seedlings at home. This immediately raises a huge number of questions: how to provide lighting, what lamps to use, etc. During growth, all plants direct their color toward the sun, often expending all their energy on this. The result is thin stems and leaves only at the tip of the stem, blackleg disease, and death.
The best time to plant seeds for seedlings is the last months of winter. Winter months don't offer much sunshine, so indoor lighting is essential. It's not difficult to set one up yourself, as it's easy and inexpensive. The results are guaranteed to be positive.
The first option that might immediately come to mind is a regular light bulb, but it's not suitable for illuminating seeds because the wattage of such bulbs is too high. The heat generated by an incandescent bulb is too intense and can cause burns. However, they also have minimal light output, which won't provide enough light for plants. The spectrum of such bulbs is blue-light-free; blue light is absent in such bulbs. Don't try to buy bulbs with a higher wattage—they're not suitable for illuminating seedlings. Certain species prefer diffused light, which is important, for example, when growing avocados.

So, how do you create lighting for seedlings at home (photo)? Several lamp options are available for illuminating plants during the germination stage. First, you need to understand how to choose lamps and what kind of lighting is needed. Naturally, it's quite difficult to replace regular daylight and sunlight. But both have physical characteristics—your task is to replicate them by choosing the right type of lighting, thereby "tricking" the plant.
Sunlight is a spectrum—wavelengths of hydrogen, helium, and ionized metals—comprising visible and invisible parts. Plants need the entire spectrum to thrive. Each wavelength brings its own benefits and is absorbed by the seedling in its own way.
The spectrum consists of seven colors—this is crucial for creating artificial lighting for seedlings at home. It's also worth noting that all seeds germinate in the dark, while those not covered by a layer of soil still germinate at night, in the dark.
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So, what is the red part of the spectrum responsible for?
Red light (630-770 nm) is the longest wavelength in the spectrum. Chlorophyll, a pigment found in plants, is an active participant in photosynthesis. Chlorophyll feeds on the energy of the red part of the spectrum, reflecting green light. Before the development of chlorophyll pigments, the red part of the spectrum played an equally important role. Phytochrome is a pigment sensitive specifically to red light. Phytochrome is the part of the plant, the pigment that determines the time of day and is responsible for flowering, and it responds to red light. Phytochrome determines a plant's light-loving and, conversely, shade-loving properties. Red light acts as a kind of germination stimulant.
The second-longest wavelength, orange light (585-620 nm), also influences plant fertility. To summarize, red and orange light are the primary energy sources for metabolism and seed germination.
Yellow (575-585 nm) and green (510-575 nm) parts of the spectral composition.
Returning to the chlorophyll pigment, it should be noted that thanks to it, green and yellow dyes participate only in the green coloring of plants. Because chlorophyll, a green pigment, reflects this part of the spectral composition, the green pigment does not absorb, but reflects, green and yellow wavelengths. Despite this, its absence can still negatively affect plant growth or growing vegetables, since it is part of the natural spectral composition.
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Blue (440-480 nm) and cyan (480-510 nm) light.
Blue and light-blue wavelengths interact with the pigment cryptochrome, which is responsible for phototropism. Phototropism is the bending of a plant's stem toward the light source. Blue wavelengths also inhibit cell elongation, although they stimulate cell division. They inhibit stem growth and are responsible for the size of leaf stomata. When blue and light-blue light levels are insufficient, the stem elongates.
Violet (390-440) and ultraviolet light.
Like blue light, it influences the transition of cells to differentiation rather than elongation. It actively influences photosynthesis and is an integral part of the spectral composition of natural light.
The invisible part of the spectrum.
The ultraviolet wave is an invisible part of the spectrum, but it plays an equally important role in the development of the cucumber.
Ultraviolet radiation kills pathogenic bacteria and has a disinfecting effect, but in large quantities it is dangerous for plants. In large quantities, ultraviolet radiation can be harmful to any plant variety. Its energy can also destroy biomolecules. It is recommended to use ultraviolet radiation in moderation.

Infrared radiation.
It doesn't have a significant effect on all plants. It's responsible for heat and has a thermal effect on the seedling.
Having understood the physical processes involved in illuminating seedlings, and having learned the importance of each element of the spectral composition and lighting as a whole, we can now move on to the question of how to create lighting for seedlings at home.
First, you need to prepare a growing area for the seedlings. You'll need shelving and a nearby power outlet or a generator if you decide to use grow lights.
LED lamps
How to provide lighting for seedlings at home using LED lamps?
Let's start with the favorite in this category. Its advantages include the ability to combine two wavelengths of light that are crucial for plants: red and blue. The lamp material and LEDs themselves are inexpensive. While plants receive about 6,000 lux under LED lighting, the closest approximation to natural light, this lamp consumes little electricity. It's easy to assemble and easy to use. All these qualities make this option practically ideal. To make such a lamp yourself, consider: at home You'll need LEDs in the required colors (red and blue), hot-melt adhesive, a material that can be used as a rigid base, electricity (a power supply), a cord, and a plug. You'll connect everything together using a soldering iron, screws, and double-sided tape. It's best to alternate the colors of the backlight.

Devices
Lighting for seedlings at home with commercially available fixtures isn't all that difficult. The advantages of phytolamps include the absence of infrared and ultraviolet rays and the presence of pink (most commonly) and blue light. The disadvantages include the impossibility of making such a lamp at home. Another downside is the price of this lighting option.
Fluorescent lamps
Let's talk about lighting seedlings with fluorescent lamps at home (photo).
In their operation and internal design, they resemble standard incandescent lamps. Their advantages include natural light, the availability of colors other than white, energy-saving properties, and high output.
The downside is that it's impossible to make one yourself, as a fluorescent lamp is a glass tube, hermetically sealed on both ends, filled with an inert gas (mercury column) and a phosphor. Another downside is the low light temperature of the lamp, resulting in a lack of red light.
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Sodium lamps
And finally, how to illuminate seedlings with sodium lamps at home (photo)?
It's a lamp with a gas discharge in sodium vapor, which produces the glow. The advantage of sodium lamps is their warm light, but the disadvantages include complex installation and adjustment, and the high cost of the lamp.

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Igor Ivanovich
Apartment garden
At the end of the season, many gardeners wonder what to do with the plants still blooming and fruiting in their beds. Look at the photo – cherry tomatoes, they still have plenty of room to grow. Throwing away such a wonder is too much for me. So, faced with this same problem, I thought about it.
So, what are the basic conditions necessary for growing plants? Of course, these include a constant positive temperature, sufficient and cyclical lighting, as well as suitable soil and moisture. Living in a city apartment already ensures a constant positive temperature. All that remains is to ensure sufficient lighting, high-quality soil, regular watering, and, of course, a well-ventilated space.
My first experience with gardening involved growing seedlings in an apartment in the middle of winter (see photo below). It's clear that the lighting issue was solved with a simple fluorescent lamp. I'm sure this method is no secret to many.
It's February outside, and the tomato and pepper seedlings are growing, although due to the lack of light from a simple lamp and the absence of the necessary spectral range, they are stretching out considerably.
That's when I came up with the idea to create a small shelving unit with the necessary lighting, one that would take up minimal space in the room and not detract from the decor. The first design solution I implemented was a stand made of wooden beams with four compartments, the walls of which were made of corrugated cardboard, covered with foil on the inside. The dimensions of the stand are 200 x 60 x 40 cm.
Next, I needed to set up the "right" lighting. I found LED sources for plants with the required spectral range of 380-840 nm.
As stated in the product description, the light from these LEDs has an ideal spectral composition for plants. The phosphor emits approximately 17% blue light, approximately 65% red light, and 10% yellow-green light, with the remainder being IR and UV radiation. The LED's innovative structure produces light containing rays from the same spectrum as the sun, but in an optimal combination for plants. Blue and red light stimulates the growth of green plant parts, flowering, and fruiting, while the UV spectrum is essential for growing essential oil crops, and the IR radiation promotes photosynthesis. This technology can be used for any type of plant, including seedlings.
Now it was time to make the lamp itself. After some time and all the design rigors, I came up with two models. One is a cluster of three light sources, the other is a single, "spot" light source. The photo clearly shows everything.
I installed the shelving unit, or "phytobox" as it's commonly called (a "growbox" is a rather expensive growing container), in the corner of the living room, next to the interior door, far from the window, so I only had artificial lighting. To avoid running out of money on electricity, I installed a network timer that only turns on at night (when the electricity bill is at its lowest). Besides saving money, the timer ensures a day-night cycle. A photo of the timer is shown below.
The first results of my efforts became visible in the fall, winter, and spring of 2015–2016. These included tomato, pepper, cucumber, lettuce, and parsley plants. All are shown in the photo.
And here in the photo on the left is the very same cherry tomato that was left over after the end of the summer season and has settled in beautifully for the winter.
And in these photos, on the right, there are two cucumber plants growing. I was planning to try growing them to fruit. But apparently, I got the wrong variety. The cucumbers did bloom, but only the "male" color; no ovaries appeared, and there were no fruits. Later, in the spring, I brought them to the dacha and planted them in a greenhouse, trying to "revive" them, but there was practically no harvest. But the peppers in this "phyto box," under LED lighting, really enjoyed growing. The plants were large and strong. (The photo on the left shows a flowering cucumber.)
In the photo: the boxes on the left contain parsley and lettuce. We haven't yet managed to grow them to full maturity—they likely don't get enough light, but the peppers are quite happy.
These were the results I had for the 2016 spring-summer season. For the 2016-17 fall-winter-spring season, I planned to grow strawberries under similar conditions and get at least some harvest. I also set a goal to continue the cucumber growing experiment, building on the experience I'd already gained. I built a new, slightly simplified phytobox for the cucumbers.
And now the results of the experiment are starting to appear. These are the first flowers and strawberries. What joy, it's working!
And this is already, you could say, a harvest. I treated my wife, son, and grandson, and some of the guests too. They praised it, saying it was sweet. And what a smell in the room, and all this in winter! Well, this is pure happiness for a gardener – a pensioner at 77. I can go on living; the years are no barrier!
At the same time, I continued to research the results obtained using different lighting. The photo below shows a spotlight with a higher output of 3 watts. The question arose: what illumination are my lights producing? This is very important. I had to read a little about light theory and buy a lux meter to take measurements. The results are quite good, and most importantly, the design of the lights allows them to be placed in any position – above, to the left, to the right, or below. As the plants grow, they can be raised to the desired height. Importantly, these lights generate virtually no heat (as designed), meaning they can be placed close to the leaves.
I wanted to write a few more words about cucumbers, but it’s better to look at the photo; everything will be clear from them.
I'll be treating my family soon. The cucumber variety is "urban, early ripening."
In conclusion, I'd like to dedicate a few lines to another product I designed and manufactured: the "Hot Baseboard" electric heater. Its main characteristics are shown in the photo. I've also incorporated it into my gardening and sometimes use it to warm plants in the greenhouse during the cold season. When combined with a thermostat, the "Hot Baseboard" becomes an effective heating system for a living space.
In conclusion, I want to say something that's important to me. As a creative person and design engineer, I want my products to be in demand and useful to interested people. I can custom-make my electric heaters, phytoboxes, and plant lights to your specifications. My contact information is: email – ig-turs@mail.ru, mobile phone – 89163652780.
If my story interests you, please share it with your family, friends, and acquaintances. I beg you.
Sincerely, Igor T.
Unfortunately, photos are not included here. But I'd be happy to send them to you. Email me at ig-turs@mail.ru