Winter onions: planting and care, features of winter onion planting, varieties

Onion

The standard practice for growing onions is to plant in early spring and harvest in late summer. Relatively recently, gardeners have discovered a method for growing winter onions. Winter onion sets require little effort to grow, produce abundant harvests, and are not overwhelmed by weeds. Agronomists have developed special varieties and hybrids that can survive winter frosts, thrive and grow in short daylight hours, and produce rapid germination in early spring.

Why plant onions in the fall?

Winter planting – a new development in onion cultivation techniques. By planting in the fall, gardeners achieve the following goals:

  • By postponing some of the gardening work until autumn, the gardener saves valuable spring time;
  • Winter onions awaken from dormancy immediately after the field is cleared of snow. This gives them a 3-5 week head start compared to traditional methods;
  • By moving the onion growing season to early spring, the gardener can already clear the field for the next crop in July;
  • autumn planting protects onions from damage by insect pests;
  • Overwintered bulbs are practically not affected by gray mold and powdery mildew;
  • early sprouted plantings do not need watering;
  • Winter planting provides the gardener with a very early harvest of greens;
  • onion beds with overwintered plantings are not affected by weeds;
  • the onion grows very large;
  • Planted sets stay well in the soil. This frees the gardener from the hassle of storing them over the winter.
Note!
Large bulbs planted in the fall can delight you with fresh, early greens in the spring. Small bulbs can yield a good harvest.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

Planting vegetables in winter has its advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of the method:

  • Onions planted in the fall produce a stable harvest in early summer. Early vegetables can be sold profitably;
  • Harvesting crops in early summer frees up the land, making it possible to grow two crops from one bed;
  • Early sprouting onions suppress the growth of weeds around them;
  • Plants that emerge early in the spring are less susceptible to harmful insects;
  • Onions grown in early summer store well;
  • small onion sets planted in the fall give all their energy to growing the bulb and practically do not bolt;
  • Large onion bulbs planted in winter provide a very early harvest of greens.

However, this type of agricultural technology also has its drawbacks:

  • During a long winter, some plants may die. Therefore, the amount of planting material is increased by 1/10;
  • Autumn plantings must be covered to protect them from early frosts. This increases the cost of cultivation and requires a significant amount of covering materials.

Selecting an onion variety for winter cultivation

Two important characteristics are important for plants grown in the fall and spring: frost resistance and good growth in short daylight hours. To survive the cold winter, a vegetable planted in the fall must establish roots and adapt during the short autumn period. Late-ripening onion varieties reveal their full potential only in long daylight hours, so using their bulbs for planting is pointless. It's also pointless to plant bulbs from southern varieties, which reveal their potential only during high summer temperatures.

Note!
An incorrectly selected variety will produce a stalk instead of a bulb after wintering.

A large number of onion varieties for winter planting have been developed by Russian and Dutch agronomists.

Arzamas

This variety was developed by traditional breeders in the last century. It is suitable for cultivation in central Russia and the Urals. The bulb is round and weighs up to 80 grams. The skin is dark yellow with a brown tint. The bulb has a very pungent flavor. It is a mid-season variety, with a period of 70-90 days from seed germination to top lodging. The yield can reach up to three kilograms per square meter. A disadvantage of the Arzamas variety is its weak resistance to downy mildew.

Danilovsky

This variety was developed by agronomists in the Yaroslavl region. It grows well throughout almost all of Russia. The bulb is round and flat, weighing up to 160 grams. The skin is reddish-purple. The bulb has a mild, slightly sweet flavor. The Danilovsky onion variety is used for canning, preparing dishes, and making salads. It is a mid-season variety. When grown from seed, the harvest is 110-120 days after planting; when grown from sets, it is 90-100 days after planting. The yield reaches three kilograms per square meter.

Radar

This hybrid is the work of Dutch agronomists. It is zoned throughout the Russian Federation. The bulbs grow to a weight of up to 300 grams, are round, and golden-yellow. It is designed for winter sowing and tolerates frosts down to -23°C (-23°F). It is resistant to bolting and is virtually disease- and pest-free. It is an early-ripening variety; when planted in winter, the harvest begins in early June.

Note!
Radar is a hybrid variety and is not intended for propagation at home.

Red Baron

The Red Baron variety was developed by Dutch agronomists. It grows well throughout almost all of Russia. The bulb is flattened and oval. With proper care, it can weigh up to 200 grams. The flesh and scales are burgundy. Because of its unusual flesh color, Red Baron is often used to decorate dishes on holiday tables. The vegetable has a mildly spicy flavor. A distinctive feature of the Red Baron variety is the absence of the characteristic onion bitterness. This early-ripening variety is harvested within three months of planting. Its yield reaches up to four kilograms per square meter.

Senshui

The result of the work of Japanese breeders, the Senshui onion grows well throughout almost all of Russia. This variety was specifically bred for winter planting. The bulbs grow up to 250 grams in weight, are flat, and straw-yellow in color. The variety is distinguished by its pungent flavor. It is an early-ripening variety, harvested in early summer. Senshui is very frost-hardy, with bulbs that can withstand temperatures as low as -15 degrees Celsius. With proper care, the yield of this variety reaches 4 kilograms per square meter.

Strigunovsky

The ancient Strigunovsky onion variety was developed by Russian agronomists. It is suitable for cultivation in central Russia. The bulbs are round, weighing up to 120 grams. The scales are yellow. The Strigunovsky onion variety is distinguished by its pungent flavor. It is an early-ripening variety; when planted before winter, the harvest begins in early summer. The yield reaches three kilograms per square meter.

Sturon

The result of the work of Dutch agronomists is the Sturon onion. The variety was bred from a common variety. Stuttgarten RiesenSturon is suitable for cultivation throughout virtually all of Russia. This variety is frost-resistant; bulbs planted in the ground do not freeze during the winter. The bulbs are round, slightly elongated, and weigh up to 220 grams. The scales are yellow-brown. Sturon onions have an exceptionally sharp, bitter flavor. This variety is early maturing; when planted before winter, the harvest begins in early summer. The yield reaches three and a half kilograms per square meter.

Note!
Under optimal conditions, Sturon can be stored for 9 months.

Centurion

The Centurion F1 onion is the result of the work of Dutch agronomists. This variety is suitable for cultivation throughout virtually all of Russia. The bulbs are elongated and weigh up to 120 grams. The scales are yellow. The onion has a delicate, medium-spicy flavor, making it ideal for salads and preserves. This early-ripening variety yields crops in early summer when planted before winter. Yields reach four kilograms per square meter. Centurion rarely bolts and is virtually disease-free.

Shakespeare

The Shakespeare onion is the result of the work of Dutch agronomists. This variety was bred for winter sowing and is intended for cultivation in the central and northern regions of Russia. The bulbs are round, slightly flattened, and weigh up to 100 grams. The scales are yellow-brown. The onion has a medium-sharp flavor. This early-ripening variety yields a harvest in early summer when planted in winter. Yields reach three kilograms per square meter. Shakespeare is exceptionally disease-resistant and rarely bolts.

Stuttgarten Riesen

The Stuttgart Riesen variety was developed by German breeders. It thrives throughout almost all of Russia. The bulbs are round, slightly flattened, and weigh up to 250 grams. The scales are yellow. The onion has a semi-sharp flavor. It is a mid-season variety, and with proper care, the Stuttgart Riesen variety yields up to 8 kilograms per square meter. Stuttgart Riesen is resistant to diseases and pests.

Ellan

The Ellan onion variety was developed relatively recently by Kuban breeders. It is suitable for cultivation throughout the Russian Federation. The bulbs are round, and the bulk of the harvest weighs 100 grams, but with proper care, individual specimens can reach half a kilogram. The onion has a sweet flavor, making it ideal for salads, a variety of dishes, and preserves. This early-ripening variety yields a harvest in early summer when planted before winter. Its sweet flavor and lack of bitterness make Ellan onions suitable for those with gastrointestinal conditions.

Technology for growing winter onions

After selecting and purchasing the seeds, you can begin planting. Winter onion planting should be done just 10-15 days before the onset of consistent night frosts. The planted bulbs should have time to firmly establish roots in the soil, but the appearance of long stems will inevitably lead to the death of the plant. A more accurate planting time can be determined from the weather forecast. If forecasters predict a stable daytime temperature of 5-7 degrees Celsius for the week, with a gradual decrease in temperature, then it's time to plant the onions in the beds.

Based on this, the optimal planting time for the Moscow region is the beginning of October, for the southern regions of the Russian Federation – November, for the Urals and Siberia – the end of September.

Preparing the arable land

For winter onion cultivation, choose a well-lit location where snow melts quickly in the spring. It's also important to avoid standing water in the future field, as bulbous plants die in damp conditions. Loose, neutral soil is ideal for onions.

The vegetable will grow well in soil previously occupied by rapeseed, beets, mustard, tomatoes, cabbage, or grain crops. Low yields will occur when growing onions after carrots, potatoes, legumes, cucumbers, or any bulbous crops.

Before planting, dig the soil and apply fertilizer. To increase yield, add one bucket of humus or compost per square meter during digging. Additionally, add 2 tablespoons of superphosphate and wood ash, and one tablespoon of urea per square meter. In acidic soils, add lime, stove ash, ground chalk, or superphosphate before planting.

Preparation of planting material

A crucial step in obtaining a bountiful harvest is proper preparation of the planting material. The bulbs intended for planting are inspected and any rotten, dried, or damaged ones are discarded. They are then divided by diameter:

  • up to 1 centimeter (wild oats) are planted to obtain onions;
  • from 1 to 2 centimeters (sets) – to obtain heads and fresh spring greens;
  • Bulbs over 2 centimeters are planted exclusively to obtain a large amount of early greens.
Solution

To protect against diseases, soak the bulbs for 10 minutes. soak in the solution copper sulfate or potassium permanganate, and then dried for 12-24 hours.

Note!
To obtain a harvest of bulbs rather than green feathers, the bulbs are immersed in a hot (50-60 degrees) solution of potassium permanganate for several minutes before planting, and the furrows in the arable land are poured with boiling water.

Winter planting of onion sets

Planting onions carried out according to the following algorithm:

  1. Selecting a location on the plot for onions, applying fertilizers, digging the field, setting up and arranging the bed.
  2. Preparation of planting material, rejection of low-quality seeds, separation of planting material by diameter.
  3. Marking out the planting bed. Use a planting marker to make furrows 10 cm from the edge of the bed. Space them 15-25 cm apart.
  4. The bulbs are planted in furrows. For green onions, space the bulbs 5 cm apart; for commercial onions, space them 10-12 cm apart, depending on the variety. The planting material is buried 5-8 cm deep.
  5. After planting, the bulbs are covered with soil and protected from freezing with a layer of mulch, sawdust, spruce branches or straw.

Planting onions with seeds

After preparing the soil, onion seeds are planted in furrows attached to strips. The furrows are spaced 30-35 cm apart, and the seeds are planted at a depth of 3-3.5 cm. After planting, the strips are covered with soil. To ensure a good harvest, the top layer of soil is periodically watered and loosened. For the winter, the beds are covered with mulch, straw, sawdust, or covering material.

How to care for plantings

Once warmer weather arrives and the ground begins to thaw, the covering is removed from the beds. The uncovered soil warms up faster, and the plants awaken. Further care for winter onions in the spring involves timely watering, fertilizing, and weeding.

Two weeks after the first spring shoots emerge, the onions are given their first feeding. This first feeding is aimed at developing the green part of the plant, so it's done with nitrogen fertilizers. To do this, dissolve 30 grams of ammonium nitrate, 40 grams of superphosphate, and 20 grams of potassium chloride in ten liters of water.

The second feeding is carried out three weeks after the first. This time, a comprehensive feeding is administered to develop the entire organism. To do this, dissolve 30 grams of ammonium nitrate, 60 grams of superphosphate, and 30 grams of potassium chloride in one bucket of water.

The third feeding is done to promote the formation of the onion head. For this, 40 grams of superphosphate and 20 grams of potassium chloride are diluted in ten liters of water.

Note!
The best complex fertilizer is a cow manure infusion. A kilogram of manure is diluted with ten liters of water and left to steep for a week. Before use, the resulting infusion is diluted five times with water.

Harvesting and storage of crops

Winter onion harvesting begins in early summer, when the onion tops dry out and fall to the ground. By this time, all the nutrients from the tops and roots have been transferred to the bulb. Bulb growth stops, the outer leaves dry out, and acquire the variety's characteristic color.

Onion harvesting is done in dry, warm weather. To do this, the bulbs are carefully dug up with a small shovel and pulled out of the soil by the stem. Afterwards, the vegetables are laid out in a well-ventilated area to dry.

Well-dried onions are trimmed before storage. Using scissors, remove long roots and dried stems, leaving a 4-6 cm neck. The trimmed onions are left to dry for another two weeks, after which they are stored in their primary location.

Before storing, vegetables are carefully sorted, removing damaged and rotten ones. Healthy bulbs with dry necks are kept for storage.

At home, onions are stored in vegetable baskets, wooden crates, fabric bags, nylon stockings, or nets. All containers should have ventilation holes. For best preservation, vegetables are spread out in boxes or bags in a layer up to 30 cm thick.

Onions are stored in the basement on racks or trays at temperatures ranging from zero to minus 3 degrees Celsius with a humidity of 75-90%. When stored at home, the optimal temperature is 18-22 degrees Celsius with a humidity of 50-70%.

Note!
When storing onions in plastic bags, the vegetables quickly become damp and rot.

During storage, the onions are sorted monthly, removing any rotten ones. If the onions become damp, they are carefully sorted, dried, and stored in a dry container.

Pests and diseases of onions

To ensure a bountiful harvest, it's essential to combat onion diseases and pests. The main diseases that affect onions are:

  • downy mildew,
  • rust,
  • Fusarium rot,
  • neck rot of the bottom,
  • green mold rot.

Harmful insects are also dangerous:

  • onion root mite,
  • onion moth,
  • onion fly,
  • onion hoverfly,
  • onion stem nematode.

Various industrially produced products or traditional agronomic remedies are used to combat diseases. Pesticides are used to protect plants from insects.

To prevent crop losses from diseases and pests, preventative measures are used:

Growing onions
  • Planting only healthy planting material reduces the risk of disease outbreaks;
  • The best yields are produced by regionalized varieties that are best adapted to the local climate;
  • Crop rotation. Vegetables should be returned to their planting site after 3-4 years;
  • correct choice of predecessor crops;
  • Heat treatment of seeds before sowing eliminates many pathogenic microbes;
  • High-quality planting and care of winter onions in open ground, timely watering and fertilizing, and weed control increase the yield and reduce the risk of plant damage from diseases and pests;
  • Onions stored in the garden don't store well. Harvesting them promptly prevents them from getting wet and rotting.
  • Careful culling of damaged and diseased bulbs ensures long-term storage of the harvest.

Planting onions in the fall saves valuable spring time. Varieties and hybrids specially bred by agronomists tolerate winter frosts well and quickly emerge in the spring. Winter onions are rarely affected by diseases and pests, suppress weeds around them, and produce a harvest as early as the first half of summer. The succulent greens grown from large bulbs sell well, bringing additional profits to the gardener, and the sturdy bulbs grown from wild oats store well until the next harvest.

Winter onion
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