House palm - names, varieties and care

Indoor palms are widely used in greenhouses, offices, and homes. Different species require specific growing conditions, so when choosing a palm from a photo, it's important to familiarize yourself not only with the names but also with the characteristics of the varieties before purchasing to assess the suitability of growing this exotic plant indoors.

Characteristics of the indoor palm tree, names and varieties

Although these plants are relatively easy to grow, some species cannot thrive in apartments and require greenhouse conditions. Varieties that easily adapt to indoor conditions include:

• Rapis;
• Date palm;
• Howea;
• Washingtonia;
• Livistona;
• Chamaedorea;
• Caryota;
• Yucca.

A common feature of all species is elongated, narrow leaves, the color and shape of which vary depending on the variety. The above-mentioned species do not grow taller than 2 meters and are suitable for decorating apartments and private homes. They grow best near south- and east-facing windows, but some species can also thrive on west-facing windows. All of them, without exception, require regular watering and maintaining humidity at least 50%. Palms rarely bloom, even with good care.

Date palm

This palm, a member of the Arecaceae family, is distinguished by its dense crown and pinnate, narrow leaves. The crown can contain up to 30 leaves, all curved downwards. Depending on the species (Roebelen or Canary palm), the trunk can be columnar or short, sturdy, and unbranched. Stiff stumps are located on the surface of the trunk.

Date palms love the sun and grow best indoors near south-facing windows. They maintain a healthy appearance with high humidity and regular watering during active growth.

Distinguishing features:

• very resistant to diseases and pests;
• the roots are sensitive to cold: do not place the tub on a cold floor or windowsill;
• They need fresh air, but become ill if they are in a draft.

The photo shows the Robelena palm and the Canary palm.

Rapis

There are two varieties of Rhapis: tall and low. The latter is most often purchased by apartment owners, as it is easy to grow and compact. A mature low Rhapis reaches 1.5 meters in height, while a high Rhapis reaches 3 meters.

Both species are multi-stemmed and shrub-like. The broad, oblong leaves are borne on thin, fibrous petioles and have a glossy surface. Short petioles are visible on the shoots of Rhapis elata. Leaves average 20 cm in length and 2 cm in width. They have smooth edges and a pointed tip.

The plant prefers a room with moderate humidity. The best location is near a west- or south-facing window. Direct sunlight is acceptable. Even with careful care, it blooms very rarely. The inflorescence is branched and has little ornamental value.

Howea

Howea is a bushy plant native to the Pacific islands. Its trunk is straight and slender, widened at the base, and reaches a height of 2.5 m. The crown of the trunk consists of very spreading, pinnate leaves, arranged on either side of the central vein, 1-2 cm apart. The leaves are a rich green.

A spacious hallway with filtered light is a suitable growing location. It also thrives in rooms with south- and east-facing windows. To ensure proper growth and development, the Howea should be kept out of direct sunlight.

Advantages of Howea:

• does not require high air humidity;
• tolerates temperatures down to 18 ˚C and lack of light;
• undemanding in care during cold periods.

Washingtonia

Washingtonia's distinctive feature is its fan-shaped crown, formed by leaves on bare petioles. The leaves end in sharp, stiff spines. The light-brown trunk is straight, thin, and rough, covered with remnants of leaf petioles and felt. The inflorescences are branched and paniculate.

Livistona

Indoor Livistonas grow up to 1.5 meters tall, with fan-shaped leaves. These fan-shaped leaves grow only at the top of the palm. They are divided down the middle and rounded, located on a strong petiole with sharp edges. Mature palms have a small spine on the petiole.

In spacious rooms, Livistonas grow expansively thanks to their leaves, which can reach a meter in diameter. Livistonas grow quickly and are highly decorative. Indoors, the plant requires careful care, as the crown can dry out quickly if not properly moistened.

Chamaedorea

The indoor Chamaedorea is also often called the bamboo palm. The plant has a bush-like shape with numerous thin, bare stems. Each stem can have up to seven leaves with long petioles. Palms can be grown indoors up to 1 meter tall, and outdoors up to 2 meters.

The plant blooms at a young age. Chamaedorea flowers are collected in a paniculate inflorescence. The flowers are small and yellow. It grows slowly, producing 1-2 new leaves per year. The foliage is concentrated at the top of the stem. Each leaf blade is approximately 40 cm long.

Caryota

The palm tree's native land is tropical Asia. There are 12 species in the genus Caryota. Indoor specimens grow to a height of no more than 1.5 meters. The plant can have one or more trunks, growing as a shrub. The asymmetrical leaves are large and dissected, most often triangular in shape. The foliage of young plants is a rich green, but darkens with age. Caryota palms do not bloom when grown indoors, and this is rare even in botanical gardens.

The most popular variety is the Fishtail. It is distinguished by the jagged edges of its drooping leaves and its vibrant color.

Yucca

This exotic plant grows up to 1-1.5 meters in height. The stem is thick, widening toward the top and ending in short branches. Yucca leaves are bright green and sword-shaped. They are 8 cm wide and up to 75 cm long.

Besides being grown indoors, Yucca has found a wide range of uses: the plant's leaves produce a durable fiber for rope, burlap, and denim. Dried leaves are used to weave baskets, and a natural dye is extracted from the roots.

Palm tree care at home: secrets and difficulties

Depending on the palm species, indoor care may vary. However, any subtropical palm will require a spacious, well-lit room. During periods of particularly strong sun, shade the palm by hanging blinds on the window to prevent the leaves from burning. The air in the room should be clean and fresh, but drafts should be avoided.

But to create a symmetrical plant, pruning alone isn't enough. Palms need to be rotated every few months to face the light in different directions. To prevent the leaves from drying out and dying, dust should be wiped off with a damp sponge.

Lighting

Pot locations should be bright but not exposed to harsh sunlight, although palms can tolerate bright light occasionally. Plants should preferably be placed near southwest or southeast-facing windows. In winter, an additional light source should be provided. Grow lights should not be placed too close to the plants to prevent leaf burn. Sixteen hours of daylight is sufficient.

Priming

High-quality soil is essential for growing a healthy plant. Palm soil should be light and loose, and absorb moisture quickly. Slightly acidic soil is best. When purchasing ready-made substrate, pay attention to the following ingredients:

• peat;
• sand;
• dolomite flour;
• expanded clay drainage;
• vermicompost;
• mineral fertilizers.

You can prepare the soil yourself by mixing turf, leaf mold, peat, and sand. The substrate for young plants should contain less turf than for mature palms. The drainage layer beneath the soil should be at least 3 cm.

Temperature and humidity

Palms of various origins require optimal thermal conditions. Indoor temperatures during the summer should range from 18-25˚C during the day and night, with a maximum temperature of 27˚C. In winter, temperatures should be reduced to 16˚C, which is especially important for subtropical plants.

For the species described above, the following humidity and temperature levels will be best:

• high rates for Chamaedorea, Livistona, Caryota and Yucca;
• moderate – for Howea, Rhapis and Date Palm;
• reduced - for Washingtonia.

Watering and fertilizing

The soil of any indoor palm should be kept moist, but stagnant water is unacceptable. In summer, watering should be frequent – ​​every two days. In winter, reduce watering and moisten the soil as it dries out. Water should be room temperature and settled. Periodically after watering, loosen the top layer of soil.

Palms should be fertilized in spring and summer; do not fertilize during the dormant period. Mineral fertilizers should be applied to the soil every 16 days. The main nutrients are nitrogen and phosphorus. The effect of fertilizing is noticeable within 2-3 days.

Trimming

Pruning is only necessary if the palm has become very leggy. This procedure helps form a lush crown and give the plant a well-groomed appearance. Avoid pruning diseased plants or trimming healthy ones in winter. It's best to prune indoor palms in summer or spring. The exception is if the plant has broken. Only damaged or dead leaves should be removed.

Plants should be pruned with a sharp, sterile gardening tool at the beginning of the growing season. Avoid cutting shoots too close to the stem; leave 3 cm. Afterward, treat the cut areas with garden pitch or charcoal.

Preparing for winter

The room temperature should be reduced to 12˚C at the start of the heating season. Palms can be moved to an insulated but unheated balcony. In winter, daylight hours can be extended with lamps. Watering should be gradually reduced to once a week, with soil moistened as needed.

Diseases and main problems when growing

With improper or insufficient care, palms become vulnerable to infectious diseases. Common diseases include:

1. Fungi. Brown spots with a yellow border appear on the leaves; without treatment, the leaves gradually wilt. Causes of the disease include excess moisture in the soil, chilling the plant, and excessively humid air. Fungi can be eliminated by reducing watering and treating the plant with fungicides three times, every two weeks.

   

2. Root rot. Caused by overwatering, it progresses quickly, infecting the roots. The plant's leaves darken and wilt. It can only be cured in the early stages by trimming the diseased roots and then soaking them in a fungicide solution. Afterward, the palm should be repotted in new soil and watered moderately.
3. Stem rot. Brown spots with a white coating appear on the leaves, and the stems quickly rot. The disease develops due to temperature fluctuations and vitamin deficiencies. To cure the palm, remove the affected leaves and repot the palm. To prevent the disease, regularly ventilate the room and fertilize the plant.

Gardeners often face problems such as:

• darkening of the lower leaves;
• brown leaf tips;
• the appearance of pests.

To keep the plant healthy, it is necessary to follow care instructions, maintain favorable indoor conditions, and conduct regular pest control.

Propagation and replanting of indoor palm trees

Propagation by seed is the simplest and most common method. For planting, select seeds that haven't been stored for long after collection. Seed preparation:

1. Remove the outer shell.
2. If the peel is too thick, it needs to be carefully filed off.
3. Place the seeds in warm water for a couple of days to allow them to swell.

Wooden boxes or plastic cups are suitable for planting. Fill the seeding container with soil and a sandy top layer. Place the seeds 2-3 cm deep. Afterward, moisten the soil with a spray bottle to prevent the sand from washing away. Cover the top of the container with plastic film to create a greenhouse effect.

The pots should be kept in a warm, dark place. Watering should be moderate for the first two weeks, at intervals of 2-3 days. After this, you can increase the frequency of watering and water the soil every other day. The room temperature should not fluctuate.

Once sprouts appear, the pots should be moved to a brighter location. The seedlings should be transplanted into individual containers and again covered with plastic or glass. Over time, the grown sprouts can be adapted to the indoor climate by removing the plastic and then transplanted to their permanent location.

Young plants need to be repotted more frequently than older ones: vigorously growing palms require annual repotting, while older palms only need to be repotted every three years. Plants that are already 5-6 years old should not be repotted unless absolutely necessary. The best time for repotting is April-March.

New soil for the plant should be loose and nutritious. The purchased or prepared substrate should contain the following components in a 2:2:1:1:1 ratio:

• turf soil;
• leaf soil;
• peat;
• compost;
• sand.

The choice of repotting pot depends on the palm's root system. If it grows outward, the pot should be wide but shallow. If the roots grow vertically, the palm needs a deep container. Before repotting, inspect the roots and remove any damaged areas.

Watering should be stopped a few days before repotting. Once the soil has dried out, remove the plant from the old tub along with the old root ball and move it to a new, larger pot. Add a drainage layer and compost to the bottom of the new pot. If the soil is infested with pests, it should be completely replaced. Water the plant immediately after repotting.

Frequently asked questions about growing

Indoor palms are perennial plants that will enhance any interior. With simple watering and temperature guidelines, they are easy to maintain and remain green year-round.