Parthenocarpic cucumbers: cultivation and formation

Cucumbers

More and more gardeners are choosing parthenocarpic cucumbers, praising their high yields and excellent taste. Dozens of varieties have been developed, recommended for cultivation in various regions of the country with varying ripening times. But to achieve the results stated in the descriptions, it is necessary to thoroughly understand what parthenocarpic plants are and study the specifics of growing, planting, and care.

What are parthenocarpic cucumbers?

Traditionally, the process of gherkin fruit formation involves pollination, meaning the presence of male and female flowers, as well as pollinators, is necessary. With parthenocarpy, gherkins form without pollination.

Note!
Calling parthenocarpic cucumbers self-pollinating is incorrect. This type of hybrid produces fruit that ripens without pollination. Parthenocarpy, translated from Greek, means "virgin fruit." This means the plants don't require pollination. Research into creating hybrids was conducted in several countries, and the result was essentially a breakthrough in plant breeding. While previously pollination problems had to be addressed by attracting insects to greenhouses and beds, with parthenocarpic cucumbers, the situation is much simpler.

Ovaries form without pollination, and the fruits contain few or no seeds. The seeds are small and underdeveloped. This prevents the young fruits from overgrowing and turning yellow, but it also prevents the seeds of these first-generation hybrids from being harvested for subsequent planting.

A distinctive feature of parthenocarpic varieties is either the complete absence of seeds, or their seeds are very small and underdeveloped (see photo). Therefore, it is impossible to collect seeds from such varieties. Seed material is obtained at specialized stations and agricultural companies through artificial pollination of the desired parental varieties.

Hybrids have been developed for universal cultivation, as well as for greenhouse and garden cultivation. It's important to follow the breeder's recommendations, as specified in the description of a specific cucumber, and to properly care for the plants. If a hybrid is labeled as greenhouse-grown, it will only achieve its maximum yield and flavor under cover and with proper care. Occasionally, plants planted in open ground have produced slightly bitter flesh and deformed fruits. The explanation is simple: poor care or unsuitable growing conditions.

Pros and cons

Parthenocarpic cucumbers are popular and gaining more and more fans among gardeners. Advantages:

  • rapid plant growth;
  • stable yield;
  • abundant fruiting;
  • excellent taste characteristics;
  • fruit uniformity;
  • improved structure of the pulp of cucumbers; many hybrids have a characteristic cucumber crunch;
  • long fruiting period;
  • resistance to adverse weather conditions;
  • versatility of using cucumbers;
  • long shelf life (the indicator depends on the specific variety);
  • female flowering type cucumbers;
  • increased immunity to diseases.

When growing parthenocarpic hybrids, the problem of barren flowers disappears, and most plants produce predominantly female flowers. This leads to increased yields, allowing for large quantities of fruit to be harvested in small plots.

The variety of hybrids bred is another plus, as gardeners can choose fruits with large and small bumps, black or white spines, and varying degrees of bumpiness. Many cucumbers are harvested at the gherkin or pickle stage, used for pickling and canning.

Flaws:

  • the need to buy new seeds every year;
  • high cost of new hybrid products;
  • Mandatory bush shaping is required: pinching, removing excess leaves, avoiding dense plantings;
  • enhanced nutrition.

Among the parthenocarpic plants are many cluster-type varieties, producing several ovaries (from 2 to 12 or more) in the axils. These species are characterized by increased fruit production, but require proper agricultural practices, adherence to planting guidelines, and regular fertilization.

Popular varieties

The State Register lists dozens of hybrid parthenocarpic cucumbers, each with a variety of characteristics. Gardeners also grow varieties that haven't been registered but have proven successful in practice.

Criteria for selecting hybrids:

  • by ripening time;
  • according to planting conditions (in beds, in shelters);
  • according to zoning recommendations (adaptation to specific climatic zones);
  • branching type;
  • use (only in salads, universal, for pickling, marinades, canning).

Parthenocarpic cucumber varieties for open ground

We present cucumbers that are resistant to natural anomalies (heat, drought, low temperatures), adapted to low humidity, low light, and others.

Popular ones include:

  • Cucumber Kanalya F1 – early, with clusters of 3 or more ovaries, resistant to most diseases. Cucumbers are large-tuberculate, with brown spines and juicy, crisp flesh;
  • Connie F1 is a mid-season variety (47-50 days), with consistently high and long-lasting fruiting. It yields up to 14-16 kg per square meter. It is resistant to powdery mildew and root rot.
  • Petrovsky – vigorous plants that produce short, large-tuberculate, white-spined cucumbers. Resistant to powdery mildew and cladosporiosis;
  • Duet F1 is an indeterminate plant type characterized by vigorous climbing habit. It produces short cucumbers with large tubercles and excellent flavor. The length is no more than 10-11 cm, with a marketable yield of 97%.
  • Grandma's Secret is a hybrid that produces salad-type cucumbers, often used for canning. The nodes contain up to three ovaries, and the length is up to 11 cm;
  • The early hybrid Athos boasts excellent fruit flavor. The cucumbers are cylindrical, bright green, and have small stripes. They grow up to 10-12 cm in length, with a dense, white skin covered with numerous small tubercles.
  • Masha F1 – the first cucumbers are harvested 36 days after germination. It's a high-yielding variety, yielding 11-13 kg of cucumbers per square meter.
  • Friendly Family is a mid-early hybrid (143-48 days). Excellent for pickling. Cucumbers weigh approximately 70-100 grams, are firm and crisp. This cucumber produces fruit until the frost.
Note!
When planting seedlings in beds, it is recommended to cover the plants with non-woven material during the first weeks.

For shelters

Parthenocarpic plants were originally bred specifically for greenhouse cultivation. Therefore, the list of hybrid forms includes a huge number of species. Here are the most popular:

  • The Pyzhik F1 cucumber yields up to 6-8 kg of cucumbers per bush. The plant is tall, producing fruits weighing approximately 70-100 grams with medium-sized tubercles and dense white pubescence.
  • The Uglich F1 cucumber is an early-ripening hybrid with a robust root system and abundant foliage. Fruits form in clusters of 5-6. The cucumbers are green, brown-spined, and have numerous tubercles. They weigh approximately 100-115 grams. Resistant to root rot and powdery mildew.
  • The Kucha Mala F1 cucumber is a medium-sized, vine-like plant with good lateral growth. The cucumbers are uniform, distinctly tuberculate, and not prone to overgrowth. They are 9-11 cm long, with juicy, tender, and free of bitterness and voids.
  • Emelya is a very early (37-39 days) hybrid. The plant is indeterminate, vigorous, and moderately branched. The axils contain clusters of 3-5 ovaries. The fruits are spindle-shaped and up to 13-15 cm long. Yields are up to 16 kg per square meter.
  • The early-ripening Courage will delight you with cucumbers as early as the 40th day. 4-8 ovaries form in the axils. The cucumbers are bitter-free, slightly ribbed, juicy, and delicious;
  • The Colonel is a versatile cucumber. The nodes bear up to 3-4 ovaries, and the cucumbers are gently ribbed and covered in white pubescence. The average length is 12-15 cm, and the flesh is juicy and crisp. This variety is resistant to cucumber mosaic virus and is rarely affected by root rot and powdery mildew.
  • Emerald Stream is a parthenocarpic salad cucumber. The fruits are long, often curved, weighing up to 300 grams. The first harvest of cucumbers occurs on the 44th-46th day;
  • Furore F1 is an early variety with sweet, crisp cucumbers. Fruiting begins around 37-39 days. The fruits of the Furore F1 cucumber are formed in clusters, with 3-5 ovaries per axil. One square meter yields up to 16-18 kg of fruit.

Universal hybrids

Suitable for growing in mini-greenhouses, hotbeds, and raised beds, they are resistant to temperature fluctuations and produce high yields.

Hybrids:

  • The Kuzya F1 cucumber was bred by the Aelita agricultural company. Considered one of the earliest maturing hybrids, it grows well in greenhouses and garden beds. The first cucumbers are harvested 38-40 days after germination. Ovaries are set in clusters (3-5). The fruits are smooth, white-pubescent, and bitter-free. Uses: canning and marinating gherkins and pickles.
  • The Meva cucumber is a smooth-skinned cucumber grown primarily in winter greenhouses. It was bred by Rijk Zwaan (Holland). It is a vigorous plant with vigorous growth. The fruits are attractive, 18-21 cm long, and have a good flavor. In open ground, it bears fruit abundantly and is characterized by a high fruit set.
  • The Zircon F1 cucumber is distinguished by its long harvest period. It produces cucumbers well in open ground and is resistant to infection. Fruits are up to 11 cm long and rich green. This hybrid is considered one of the best for commercial production.
  • The Zabiyaka cucumber from Biotekhnika is an early parthenocarpic variety with a long fruiting period and low-light tolerance (shade-tolerant). The cucumbers are sparsely tuberculated and have white spines. Fruits weigh up to 60-70 grams and are no more than 8 cm long. Suitable for fresh eating and pickling.

Recommendations for growing parthenocarpic cucumbers

Hybrid forms are grown according to manufacturer recommendations and the climatic conditions of a particular location. Parthenocarpic cucumbers require standard care, but more attention is paid to bush formation and fertilization.

In open ground

When planting parthenocarpic cucumbers in garden beds in the south, cucumber seeds are sown directly into open ground. In the temperate climate zone and the Northwest, seedlings are grown and only then are the seedlings planted in their permanent location. All hybrids are suitable for southern regions, while in temperate climates, early cucumbers are selected for open ground so they can produce a harvest in garden beds during the short summer.

It's advisable to grow crops on trellises (supports, netting), as spread planting reduces yield and increases the risk of diseases. To protect against adverse weather conditions and possible cold snaps, cover the plantings in beds with non-woven fabric (such as spunbond or lutrasil).

In room conditions

Parthenocarpic cucumber varieties produce fruit successfully indoors. Choose varieties that are labeled as "greenhouse-friendly." growing on windowsills, balconies.

Important characteristics:

  • ability to bear fruit for a long time (up to 4-5 months);
  • parthenocarpy;
  • absence of bitterness in fruits.

Suitable hybrids:

  • Marinda;
  • Claudia;
  • Babylon (produces crops even in low light conditions);
  • Tandem;
  • Mazai;
  • Window-Balcony;
  • Indoor Rytova (one of the best hybrids for growing at home);
  • cucumber Brook.

Choose a spacious container for the plants, at least 5-7 liters in volume. They are first planted in pots or cups, then carefully transplanted to their permanent location.

Note!
Drainage must be poured into the container (a layer 5-7 cm thick).

In addition to garden soil and humus, the soil should also contain sifted and calcined river sand, ash, and sawdust. Sowing time is determined by growing conditions and the availability of adequate lighting. Without supplemental lighting, sowing is done in February or March; with lamps, cucumbers can be sown year-round.

Place plant containers on south-facing windowsills (balconies) with at least 15 hours of daylight. During winter, monitor the soil temperature in the containers to prevent the roots from becoming too cold.

Otherwise, the cultivation techniques are standard: fertilizing (twice a month), shaping the bushes, irrigation, and spraying (to maintain the required humidity level). Ready-made fertilizers such as Kristallin, Ideal, and Fertika are suitable for indoor cucumbers.

Indoors

Parthenocarpics successfully grown in winter greenhouses Heated greenhouses, unheated film and polycarbonate shelters, and tunnels are available. The ability to harvest without pollinators simplifies plant care and increases yields.

Hybrids are planted in greenhouses as seedlings, and the seeds are sown directly into the soil, covered with film or non-woven material for additional protection. This seedling method is practiced by gardeners in most regions of the country, as it accelerates the ripening of cucumbers and extends the growing season.

When using seedlings, cucumbers are sown in peat pellets, pots, or plastic cups. Plants are not pricked out, as they are sensitive to transplanting and take a long time to adapt to new conditions if their root system is damaged.

When planting cucumbers in greenhouses, the distance between the holes is observed (parthenocarpic plants like freedom), and the growth and branching characteristics of each hybrid are taken into account.

Agricultural technology of hybrids

The basic agricultural practices are standard for any cultivation method:

The only thing that is left out of the list is weeding when growing parthenocarpic cucumbers at home.

Irrigation

After repotting, plants are not watered for approximately 4-7 days to allow them to adapt to the new conditions. Then, until budding begins, water moderately, preventing the soil from drying out.

During the fruiting period, watering is increased to 8-10 liters per bush. The weather dictates watering; in hot weather, water frequently, preventing the soil from drying out. Monitor air humidity (under cover) and soil. Cucumbers don't like excess moisture, as they can become diseased. Hybrids are resistant to rot, but if watering is not properly maintained, they can become diseased.

Note!
Hybrid forms show excellent results when irrigated with drip systems.

Mulch is used to retain moisture. The following is used:

  • straw;
  • hay;
  • humus;
  • peat.

The plant's roots are close to the soil surface, so careless loosening can damage them. Mulch will protect against drought and overwatering, and will also keep weeds at bay. Water in the morning with warm, settled water (20ºC). The maximum humidity level in the shelter is 70%.

Fertilizing

Cucumbers are fertilized for the first time 19-21 days after planting. Suitable organic fertilizers include mullein diluted 1:10, poultry manure diluted 1:20, and mineral supplements (ammonium nitrate, superphosphate). Fertilizers should be applied after irrigation to avoid damaging or burning the cucumber roots. Do not apply fertilizers containing chlorine (potassium salt, potassium chloride).

When applying fertilizer, alternate organic and chemical fertilizers, maintaining the correct dosage. From the second half of the growing season, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are given priority. During the harvest period, applying a solution of wood ash and potassium nitrate produces good results. Fertilizing frequency is every 8-11 days.

The crop responds well to foliar sprays. Growth stimulants and traditional remedies (yeast, milk, and iodine solutions) are used to increase the number of ovaries while simultaneously boosting the plant's immunity.

How to form parthenocarpic cucumbers

Without proper plant training, hybrids don't produce their maximum yield. Inexperienced gardeners often make the mistake of leaving only the side shoots on the bushes. However, side shoots absorb a large amount of nutrients and moisture, so the resulting greens take a long time to develop and can dry out and fall off.

A characteristic of parthenocarpic plants is the formation of flowers and ovaries on the main shoot. Therefore, blinding is practiced in the lower tier. Approximate diagram:

  • plucking flowers and ovaries in the first leaf axils (lower tier);
  • up to 50 cm shoots are pinched to one ovary and two leaves;
  • at a height of half a meter to 1.5 meters, two ovaries and 2-3 leaves are left;
  • pinch the shoot even higher above the third leaf and leave four ovaries on it.

Parthenocarpic cucumbers are grown on trellises in greenhouses and beds. This inverted pyramid design ensures uniform fruiting of the hybrid, good plant illumination, and controlled plant load.

Prevention and treatment of diseases

Most parthenocarpic cucumbers are highly resistant to infections and are rarely attacked by pests. They rarely suffer from bacterial diseases and are resistant to fungal infections. Diseases are most often caused by improper care, improper watering, and a lack of preventative measures.

For treatments during cultivation, we recommend Fitolavin-300 and the fungicides Fitosporin and Gamair. Spraying plants with folk remedies helps against pests: ash (infusions and dry form), tobacco dust, and a mixture of hot pepper and mustard powder.

Harvesting

Parthenocarpic cucumbers produce abundant fruit. Therefore, daily harvesting of cucumbers is recommended during mass ripening. Hybrids are resistant to overgrowth; many do not turn yellow or become deformed. However, if harvesting is continually delayed, the overall yield decreases and the number of ovaries is reduced.

The more frequently you pick (ideally every day or every other day), the faster the new fruits will form and ripen. The resulting fruits are suitable for storing in a cool place and retain their flavor and appearance for several weeks. Most parthenocarpic varieties are suitable for long-distance transportation.

Reviews

Ekaterina, Vologda Oblast

I gave up growing varietal cucumbers a long time ago. I prefer parthenocarpic hybrids, which are easy to care for. I have to buy seeds every year, but they're worth the expense. I always have cucumbers in my garden, even in the worst season. I grow Murashka, Zyatek, and Teshcha, and I try new hybrids every year. But you have to properly shape the plants, remove excess shoots and some of the ovaries from the bottom. And buy only from trusted producers, as gardeners at the market are often ripped off by low-quality seeds or counterfeits.

Olga, Leningrad region

In my greenhouse, I only grow hybrids that don't require pollination. In the beds, I cover the grove and old, tried-and-true cucumbers, such as Advance and Muromskie, with white covering material. Courage, Junior Lieutenant, and Burevestnik are good for the greenhouse. I read the descriptions and reviews before buying, and I'm glad I didn't make a mistake. Last season, I had an excellent cucumber harvest. I don't read the descriptions very carefully; age is taking its toll, and I don't always manage to take good care of the plants. But these cucumbers produce fruit consistently even with my care, and they're easy to grow, so while I have the energy, I only plant them.

Parthenocarpic cucumbers are deservedly among gardeners' favorites. These productive, easy-to-care-for, and low-maintenance hybrids produce excellent yields even in risky farming zones.

varieties of parthenocarpic cucumbers
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