Pinching cucumbers in a greenhouse: a step-by-step guide for beginners

The cucumber segment occupies a leading position in greenhouse vegetable growing. The emphasis is on high-yielding, medium- and long-fruited varieties during the cold season and short-fruited varieties from spring to autumn. But regardless of the variety, proper watering, staking, fertilizing, and bush training are essential for a rich and healthy harvest. Proper pinching of cucumbers in a greenhouse can speed up the natural ripening process and significantly increase fertility.

What is pinching?

Every plant strives to increase its green mass by increasing the density and surface area of ​​its leaves. In nature, this increases the efficiency of photosynthesis and allows for the accumulation of sufficient nutrients for full growth even in poor soils. In greenhouse conditions, this need is eliminated, but the plant persistently carries out its "self-preservation program" by forming numerous lateral shoots (side shoots).

The more abundant the foliage, the more energy is spent on maintaining vital balance at the expense of flowering. The number and weight of fruits decreases. A significant portion of them are constantly tightly covered by foliage, which delays the ripening process due to insufficient light. To avoid this unfavorable situation, cucumbers are pinched off in greenhouses—the artificial removal (pinching) of excess shoots growing from the leaf axils.

When to pinch out cucumber bushes

The optimal time to pinch out young shoots is when the plant has 3-4 "true" leaves. At this point, the bush is 30-40 cm tall, and the side shoots are about the length of an index finger (5-6 cm). Don't wait for specific ten-day periods or "favorable" dates according to the lunar calendar. The more time you miss, the greater the damage to the main stems and the more difficult it is to properly shape and direct the shoots.

The essence of the procedure

The purpose of pinching is to remove excess lateral shoots from the main stem at the stage of their formation, so that nutrients go to the formation of ovaries and the development of fruits, rather than excess green mass and empty inflorescences.

General scheme for pinching out cucumbers in protected ground (see table).

Each bush requires an individual approach. If the plant is unwell or hasn't grown well, postpone the procedure, even if it has plenty of leaves.

Peculiarities of pinching cucumbers in a greenhouse

The classic technique is to pinch off lateral shoots with fingernails, 1 cm from the stem. This length of the "stub" is deliberate. It ensures minimal damage to the bush, preventing the risk of new shoots forming again (too close to the leaf axil) or the risk of shoot rot and the development of harmful bacteria (too long a stub).

The result of the procedure is:

• decrease in the number of male inflorescences;
• absence of sterile shoots;
• uniform illumination;
• sufficient thickening of the shoots for normal growth and abundant fruiting.

Cucumber side-sonning in a greenhouse can be done using your fingers, scissors, a utility knife, or small pruning shears. It's important to maintain proper sanitation. If you discover any diseased plants during this process, wash your hands and tools thoroughly before moving on to the next plant.

Instructions for pinching cucumbers – from seedling to fruiting bush

The first stage begins after the seedlings are planted in the greenhouse. All shoots near the fourth leaf are carefully removed. Next, they are tied to a net. The rope is attached to the base of the stem and a vertical support. This approach will significantly simplify subsequent care.

Before the second stage, it's important to strengthen the plants (5-7 leaves). To do this, apply fertilizer such as "Kormilets," "Rodnichok," "Ispolin," or "Agricola" 1-2 days before the procedure. On the day of work, water generously with settled, room-temperature water at a rate of 0.8-1.0 liters per plant. Remove all side shoots, but leave 1-2 ovaries.

The third stage is carried out at the stage of formation of 8-10 leaves. It is advisable to carry out a small preliminary top dressing and watering. Remove all side shoots. A couple of leaves and 1-2 young cucumbers remain on the bush. After the 11th leaf, trim the top. The optimal bush configuration is 2-4 leaves and 2-3 fruits on each side.

Further care of the plant

After pinching out the side shoots of cucumbers in a greenhouse, it is necessary to:

• carry out regular weeding to prevent thickening;
• remove damaged and diseased leaves;
• pinch off barren flowers;
• regulate expansion in width;
• provide regular feeding;
• quickly collect ripe crops;
• loosen and moisten the soil in a timely manner.

How to get an additional harvest

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To add a few kilograms to the main harvest and extend the fruiting period, it's necessary to change the feeding pattern and growth direction of the mature bush. To do this, untie it from its supports and lay it on the ground, then remove any areas without fruit buds, diseased stems, and leaves. Next, apply a natural liquid fertilizer based on peat and crushed charcoal. If there's a risk of cold weather, use a covering material (spunbond, double-layer polyethylene, or agrofibre). The new harvest will be less abundant but stable for several weeks.

Possible errors

Greenhouse cucumbers are a rather demanding crop with succulent and fragile stems, requiring regular and gentle care. The most common mistakes when pinching cucumber plants are related to:

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• careless pinching, which severely damages the plant;
• early stages of the procedure at the stage of intensive growth (before the appearance of 3-4 leaves);
• lack of preliminary feeding;
• watering with cold tap water.

Pinching off side shoots too late also has negative consequences. Often, a lateral shoot has time to strengthen and become the main shoot. Removing it completely slows growth and stresses the plant. In this situation, the cut should be made not at the stem itself, but at a distance of 10-15 cm (nodes 3-5).

Cucumbers grown without pinching

Some varieties don't spread outward or produce large side shoots, but rather have a single stem or a neat bushy shape. These cucumber varieties don't require pinching. These include:

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• “Blizzard”, “Balalaika”, “Saratov F1”;
• "Detinets", "Petrovsky F1", "Bouquet";
• “Valdai”, “Balcony F1”, “Severyanin”;
• "Gribovchanka", "Labyrinth", "Junior Lieutenant";
• "Be healthy", "Tom Thumb F1", "Swallowtail F1".

Proper side-shooting of cucumbers in a greenhouse ensures maximum savings in usable space, along with a high yield, long-lasting fruiting, and ease of care. It's important to strictly adhere to the chosen schedule and time the removal of side shoots correctly, visually assessing the actual rate of stem growth and the appearance of leaves. All stages of the procedure must be carried out carefully, taking care not to cause unnecessary damage to the plant. Fertilize and water before the second and subsequent side-shooting.