When to plant pelargonium so that it blooms in summer?

Pelargonium (geranium) is a favorite among many gardeners. This easy-to-grow flower blooms from March until late autumn with red, orange, pink, and white flowers.

Creating a whole collection of fragrant pelargoniums is very simple. You just need to know the best time to plant them to ensure they bloom quickly, and follow simple rules for their cultivation.

Rules and terms of breeding

In fact, there's no specific time for planting pelargoniums. They can be grown year-round, but the month they're planted will determine when they'll bloom. The propagation method also influences when they'll bloom.

If you're interested in growing pelargoniums at home, you need to know how to propagate this flower. There are several methods for propagating young geranium flowers.

Propagation by cuttings

This method is perhaps the easiest to implement, shortest, and most effective. It also allows you to preserve all the varietal properties of the mother plant.

The key to a successful operation lies in meeting two conditions: maintaining an optimal temperature and constant lighting.

The advantage of this method is that cuttings can be taken several times a year. However, it's important to keep in mind that the plant is dormant during certain months (November-January), so it won't be possible to grow a strong plant from cuttings. If you want your pelargonium to bloom this year, you should begin propagating it as early as March, as this is when the plant's vital energies are activated and the sap begins to flow. Geraniums planted in April will only flower the following year.

You can also propagate pelargoniums by cuttings in the fall (September-October), during the scheduled pruning after flowering. These cuttings will grow well during the fall and winter and will produce their first flowers the following summer.

Cutting technique:

• For propagation, apical shoots with 3-4 leaves are suitable. The cuttings should be approximately 7 centimeters long.

• Cuttings are cut only with sterile instruments, and the entire operation is performed with gloves to avoid inadvertently introducing infection into the cuts.
• The taken material is put away in a shaded place for several hours so that the cut area is covered with film.
• To prevent the cut from rotting, it is sprinkled with charcoal or Kornevin.
• The cuttings are placed in water and wait for roots to form. Then the shoot is planted in soil.
• You can avoid over-watering and plant the cutting directly in soil. The soil should be moistened and disinfected beforehand.
• Containers containing cuttings are covered with a lid or other protective material, creating a greenhouse effect. In some cases, this is not necessary, for example, if the cuttings are strong and healthy.

Plants are provided with comfortable conditions: the room temperature should be +22-23 degrees, air humidity – 80%.

Pelargonium propagated by cuttings grows roots very quickly, and there is practically no waste.

Propagation by seeds

Many gardeners truly enjoy propagating pelargoniums from seeds. While this method isn't as popular as cuttings, it does have its advantages. For example, this method allows you to create a new, unique plant variety with unique properties.

Moreover, pelargonium seeds have a very good germination rate. They grow quickly and uniformly. Plants grown from seed (and planted in the spring) begin to flower within 5-6 months.

Geranium seeds can be sown year-round. However, winter will require additional work, such as artificial lighting, humidity control, and so on. Therefore, spring and summer are considered the optimal time to plant geraniums.

Geranium seeds are large and easy to plant. For seedlings, prepare loose, light soil with minimal nutrients (to prevent over-fertilization). The soil mixture is usually two parts garden soil and one part peat or sand. You can also add a little humus, as seedlings will not thrive in very poor soil.

Before sowing, the soil must undergo a mandatory disinfection procedure. It can be baked in the oven, doused with boiling water with added manganese, or steamed. Then, the soil is distributed into shallow containers and watered generously.

Geranium seeds are spread out in neat rows, spaced two centimeters apart, over the surface. The future flowers are covered with a centimeter of soil and carefully watered (preferably with a spray bottle) with warm water. To speed up germination, the seedlings are covered with plastic wrap or a transparent lid, creating a greenhouse effect inside.

All plants need to start growing is warmth and moisture. Therefore, it's important to ensure the soil in the container remains slightly moist at all times. Insufficient moisture will quickly turn the soil surface into a crust, making it impossible for fragile seedlings to break through. Excessive moisture is also detrimental to crops: the seeds will simply rot in the soil before they germinate.

Until the seedlings emerge, it's best to keep the seedling trays in a well-lit area, but out of direct sunlight. Once the green shoots emerge in an even formation, remove the plastic wrap from the tray and place the seedlings on a windowsill to rise, basking in the warmth of the sun.

If the sowing was done at the end of March, the number of hours of sunlight will be sufficient to support the seedlings' growth. However, geraniums planted in February will require additional artificial lighting.

It's fascinating to watch the seedlings develop. The first succulent, yet fragile, shoots will appear within a week. And after just 14-18 days, the shoots will develop 3-4 leaves. This will indicate that the seedlings have grown enough to continue their long life in a separate container.

The vast majority of plants do not like picking (geraniums, by the way, do not either), so the procedure must be approached responsibly.

For seedlings, select larger containers, with a capacity of 200 milliliters (8 centimeters in diameter). Geraniums are repotted into fresh soil, supplemented with a small amount of mineral components. Using a trowel or teaspoon, carefully transfer each flower bush to the new container, being careful not to damage the fragile white roots. After transplanting, water the seedlings and expose them to sunlight.

After replanting, all that remains is to wait for the abundant and colorful flowering, which will delight the eye for months to come.

Along with cuttings and seed propagation, there are two other simple ways to increase the number of pelargonium flowers at home. One is dividing the bush. This method involves carefully dividing the geranium bush into individual parts when repotting it, for example in the fall, from open ground to a pot (or simply when changing containers). The new bushes are planted in fresh, light soil, watered, and cared for in the same way as any other plant.

Pelargonium, as you can probably tell, reproduces well vegetatively. You can start a whole garden of flowers using leaves. The trick to this method is choosing the right leaf to use as the propagation material. Choose the healthiest, largest leaf with a strong stem from the plant. Carefully cut it at an acute angle and place the end in water. After a few days, the shoot will sprout white roots. Once the root system has grown sufficiently, transplant the leaf into the soil.

Pelargonium care features

Pelargonium is one of the most easy-to-grow flowers. It's easy to grow lush seedlings and ensure they bloom profusely. However, with a little effort and a little extra attention, geraniums can bloom year-round.

The rules for proper care of pelargoniums are simple. They include:

• watering;
• control of external factors;
• pruning;
• top dressing;
• protection from diseases and pests.

Watering

Like all plants, geraniums require water. You can skip misting and humidity control, but a constant flow of moisture to the roots is essential. The key to watering is to maintain discipline and avoid overwatering. Geraniums simply won't survive in an overly humid environment, as their root system is quickly attacked by mold and other dangerous fungal diseases, especially in winter. While geraniums are generally drought-tolerant, this doesn't mean they can be constantly stressed by water deprivation. It's important to understand that the less water the plant receives, the weaker its blooms will be, and the smaller the flowers will be. Based on all of this, a watering schedule of once every 4-5 days is recommended.

External factors

Geranium is an ideal houseplant. It thrives at room temperatures of 20-25 degrees Celsius, and can even survive in cooler conditions during winter. The only requirement is minimal drafts.

During the winter months, when dormant, the plant thrives at temperatures below 14 degrees Celsius (55 degrees Fahrenheit). It's best to place a tired plant in a room where the temperature is only 6-8 degrees Celsius (43-46 degrees Fahrenheit). However, if a blooming geranium is kept at the lowest temperature for several days, it will stop blooming.

You don't need to be an experienced gardener to know: all flowers love the light. Pelargoniums are no exception. It's best to arrange the flowerbed on a windowsill, ensuring the flowers receive constant light. However, insufficient light will quickly affect the quality of the blooms: the buds will be small and dull. And if there's a critical lack of light, the pelargonium may even shed its leaves.

The abundance of light infuses the leaves with juice and color. The plant looks (and grows) healthy, blooms profusely, and exudes the strong fragrance typical of this flower.

The pot should be small. Geraniums don't need a lot of soil. The faster the roots grow around the root ball, the sooner the plant will bloom, and the smaller the pot, the more abundant the blooms will be. In larger pots, the plant may not bloom at all; it doesn't need to—life is already good, why bother? You can even plant several cuttings in one pot.

Trimming

After flowering, the plant is pruned. First, cuttings are taken from the bush for subsequent propagation, and all faded parts are removed. Branches should be trimmed mercilessly, leaving stumps 5-7 centimeters long. These will soon begin to sprout dense new shoots. The shorter the pruning, the lower the crown will form and the better branching will be.

To create a low, bushy bush, pruning is best done in the spring, after winter, while the plant is still dormant. Stronger, healthier shoots emerge during this period. Spring pruning involves removing weak branches and shortening those that have grown too tall. Avoid cutting everything indiscriminately: several buds should remain on the branches being pruned.

Pest and disease control

With proper care, geraniums can live a long, disease-free life. However, sometimes the leaves and roots can become infected, so it's important to know what to do if trouble strikes and your geranium is on the brink of death.

Like the vast majority of plants, pelargoniums are susceptible to disease when they are exposed to constant shade or when the soil is too waterlogged. As a result, humidity and high temperatures take their toll, and the flower is attacked by fungi. The main diseases of pelargoniums are gray mold, leaf rust, powdery mildew, and nematodes.

Gray mold most often affects plants in winter, when it's easiest to overwater and let them cool on a windowsill. To avoid this insidious disease, water and ventilate the plant wisely, as a lack of fresh air leads to oxygen starvation of the roots and the entire plant's structure.

Small yellow spots often appear on flower leaves. Such damage to the leaf blade indicates the development of another insidious disease – leaf rust. This condition develops due to improper plant care.

To prevent fungal diseases from becoming a constant companion of the flower, the plant is regularly treated with fungicides (for example, Topaz, Topsin, Skor) and basic rules for caring for the delicate flower are followed.

Geraniums are often infested by various small insects, which spoil the plant's appearance and gradually drain it of its vitality, causing it to wither. The main pests of pelargoniums are:

• Whitefly – feeds on plant juices, localized at the bottom of the stem;
• Aphids - affect leaves and multiply quickly;
• Thrips, mites, mealybugs – appear on all parts of the plant.

It's important to regularly inspect your bushes for pests. If they do appear, treating the plant with an insecticide can save the situation.

Feeding rules

Pelargoniums require fertilizer only in the spring and summer, during the flowering period. In winter, all additional feeding is avoided as the plant is dormant. Fertilize twice a month, combined with watering.

For a full life, pelargonium needs four basic elements:

• nitrogen;
• potassium;
• phosphorus;
• iodine.

All of these elements can be added as single components, but it is best to create cocktails from several microelements at once.

To develop a lush, green crown—stems, leaves, and roots—the bush initially requires nitrogen. It is applied to the soil in the first months of spring. If the plant lacks nitrogen, it will grow very slowly, and the foliage will become dull.

Nitrogen is found in organic compounds, which should be applied to pelargoniums with extreme caution, as they can harm the plant. To promote flowering, water geraniums with a solution of bird droppings and cow manure (only old manure can be used).

As the buds open, another element comes into play: potassium. It's now the pelargonium's main builder, or rather, the creator of its flowers. Phosphorus, meanwhile, will stimulate the strength of its leaves and stems.

Flowering expends a colossal amount of energy. To replenish this energy, the plant's tired system needs to be nourished with multivitamins, which contain various minerals such as iron, sulfur, manganese, boron, magnesium, copper, zinc, and calcium. If you provide the geranium with everything it needs, all its systems will function properly for several months, delighting its owner with continually opening buds.

Gardeners often add a solution of iodine and hydrogen peroxide to the soil to stimulate the formation of numerous flowers. This fertilizer is very easy to prepare, and the effect can be seen after just 2-3 applications.

Technique for applying iodine fertilizer:

1. The soil is well moistened.
2. Make a solution of 1 drop of iodine, 1 liter of water and 1 milliliter of hydrogen peroxide.
3. Water the soil along the walls of the pot with the solution, avoiding liquid getting on the leaves or trunk.
4. Fertilizer consumption: 50 grams at a time.
5. After 3-4 weeks the procedure can be repeated.
6. The procedure should be carried out before abundant flowering begins.
7. It is not recommended to use this type of fertilizer frequently, as the concentrate can burn the roots of the flower.

By the way, for lush color, you can add B vitamins to the fertilizer – B1, B6, B12, which can be purchased at the pharmacy.

Natural feeding

There's always a suitable fertilizing solution for geraniums available at home. Milk, for example, is a good example. It contains calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, amino acids, and fatty acids. Basically, it contains everything our plant needs for growth and flowering.

Pelargoniums respond very well to milk fertilizer. Prepare a solution of 1 liter of water and 100 milliliters of milk. Water the soil beneath the plant with the prepared mixture, alternating with regular watering.

And, of course, there's the well-known yeast fertilizer, which is readily accepted by many plants, including pelargoniums. Typically, a solution of water (1 liter) and yeast (100 grams) is used during propagation by cuttings (for rooting cut branches) or as a root dressing, with a little sugar added to the mixture.

What else can be used as fertilizer for geraniums:

• Sugar. To promote abundant flowering, apply a sugar solution as a root dressing. To increase effectiveness, add EM products (such as "Baikal EM-1").
• Ash. It contains a large amount of potassium, which is essential for the flowering of plants.
• Eggshells. An excellent source of calcium, they are often used as drainage or used to make an infusion.

There are many ways to feed your plants. You can use traditional fertilizers, store-bought ones, or turn to folk wisdom and feed your flowers with homemade products. However, it's important to remember that moderation is key. It's important to know when to feed your plants and when to leave them alone.

Tips for gardeners:

• Liquid fertilizers should always be combined with watering;
• After applying fertilizer, the soil needs to be loosened;
• Geraniums should not be fed before and immediately after replanting;
• It is not possible to save sick pelargoniums with fertilizers.

Recommendations for growing pelargoniums:

• Young plants have more flower stalks, but if you want to save old plants, then in the fall they need to be transplanted into smaller pots with light soil and trimmed back heavily.
• Before the buds appear, you need to pinch the top of the plant for more abundant color.
• Geranium loves potassium fertilizers, but the flower does not respond well to organic matter.
• Choose small pots for your flower bush. If the container is much larger than the plant, the excess soil will quickly compact and water will accumulate on the surface. This increases the risk of the weak roots rotting. It's important to remember that the roots should completely envelop the soil in the pot. The sooner this happens, the sooner the plant will bloom.

• Plants grow well in both alkaline and acidic soil, but do best with a pH of 7.
• Continuous flowering can be achieved by breaking off faded flower stalks.
• Pelargoniums thrive in any temperature, and even in hot summers they bloom beautifully in the sun, but they prefer cooler weather. In autumn, they thrive at 10-12 degrees Celsius.