Sweet peppers have always been a favorite among gardeners. Among the vast selection of seeds offered by agricultural companies, a new addition stands out: the "Admiral Ushakov" sweet pepper. Using the right agricultural techniques and taking into account its characteristics, its cultivation will not seem too labor-intensive.
Characteristic
This hybrid belongs to the mid-season group, maturing in 113-130 days from germination. At technical maturity, the fruits are green; at biological maturity, they are red. Suitable for both open and protected cultivation, they are characterized by:
- bush height - 0.5 m - 1 m;
- large, cubic fruits weighing 170 g – 300 g;
- wall thickness 6mm - 8 mm;
- high content of sugars and vitamins (sweet taste, juicy pulp);
- yield – 7 – 8 kg per 1 m²; resistance to many diseases.
The following qualities are of no small importance: suitability for transportation, excellent storage, and versatility in use.
Growing seedlings
Peppers are grown in all regions, so the sowing times for seedlings vary. However, this doesn't mean planting is the sooner the better. The optimal time for strong seedlings is February 20th to March 20th.
Seed preparation
Before planting, the seeds are processed. They are calibrated and sorted. They are then disinfected using the following solutions:
- potassium permanganate (light pink solution);
- Fungicide. Soak the seeds for 3 hours at 35°C. Then rinse thoroughly. Germination is improved by soaking them for 24 hours in solutions of boric acid (5 mg per 1 liter of water) or baking soda (10 mg per 1 liter of water).
Sowing
The seeds are planted in cups filled with soil (you can use special mini-greenhouses, planting them in a 2x2 pattern) at a depth of 1.5–2 cm, lightly compacted, and watered with a spray bottle. The containers are then covered with plastic wrap. Sprouts appear in 5–10 days; if the temperature is insufficient, germination can take up to 20 days. Avoid sowing too deeply, as this can cause root rot.
Important: When planting, use only store-bought soil. Garden soil can be a source of plant diseases.
When the first sprouts appear, remove the film immediately. Place the containers under a grow light, and reduce the temperature to 16°C to 18°C. After 5-6 days, increase the temperature to 22°C to 25°C. This heat-loving plant should not be placed on a cold windowsill; avoid drafts.
Feeding seedlings
Peppers are fed every two weeks. The first feeding coincides with the opening of the cotyledon leaves. A weak solution of Unifor-Bud fertilizer (1 teaspoon per 2-3 liters of water) is suitable. Feeding is combined with watering.
Picking
Pricking out is done after the plant has 3-4 pairs of true leaves. Peppers are very sensitive to transplanting, so prick out as carefully as possible, trying not to damage the root system.
The sprout is carefully removed from the container and planted in a larger container.

It is important to follow the basic rules:
- the spine is not shortened;
- the stem is not buried deep, leaving it at the same level;
- The seedlings are not exposed to light for the first 2-4 days.
Transplantation into the ground and care
Transfer
Light, loamy soil without waterlogging is ideal for planting the Admiral Ushakov pepper. If the soil is poor, add well-rotted compost. Under normal conditions, simply add fertilizer to the planting hole.
The seedlings are approximately 60-65 days old. They are planted in warm soil (at least 16°C) on a cloudy day or in the evening. Space the plants 50-60 cm apart, and the rows 75-80 cm apart. Add 2 tablespoons of potassium fertilizer (without phosphorus, as peppers don't tolerate it), a handful of ash or eggshells, and water to the hole. Once the water has been absorbed, begin planting. Carefully remove the plants from the pot, being careful not to damage the roots and not burying the stems. Replant and compact the seedlings.
Watering and fertilizing
Peppers require a lot of water. It's best to let warm water settle. Watering is combined with mineral fertilizers. Twice a season, feed with dry urea (1 tablespoon per 1 m²).
Bush formation
Form the plant into two stems. Gradually remove the leaves and side shoots until the fork forms. Reduce crowding by removing anything growing inward, such as twigs and buds.
At the end of July, only the ovaries are left on the bushes and the branches are pinched. This will ensure a good harvest in September.
Important: Pepper is a heat-loving plant.
It requires watering with warm, settled water.
Pests and diseases
Pests
The main pests of pepper are aphids and slugs.
Aphids are controlled using intoxicants.
Slugs - spray the soil and plants with a vinegar solution (0.5 cups per bucket), Meta, Groza preparations.
Diseases
The main diseases affecting pepper plants.
| Disease and symptoms | Causes and methods of control |
| Stovbur – a viral infection. The leaves become covered in a mosaic pattern and wilt. | The plant is dug up and burned. |
| Blossom end rot - a grey spot appears on the plant, then it rots | Potassium or calcium deficiency. Apply fertilizer. |
| Stem rot – a white coating appears. |
Too dense planting, dampness. Control excess moisture, remove diseased leaves. Dust with ash. |
A leader in vitamin C content and versatile in use, sweet peppers are rightfully considered a popular vegetable in the garden. By consistently following proper agricultural practices when growing Admiral Ushakov peppers, you'll always be assured of a bountiful harvest.
And here are the characteristics it has Fakir pepper.

Victoria Pepper: Variety Description with Photos and Reviews
TOP 10 early-ripening pepper varieties
Pepper in a snail - planting seedlings without picking
What to do if pepper seedlings start to fall over after germination