Step-by-step instructions for transplanting pepper seedlings, including timing and methods

Growing peppers has its own subtleties, and even experienced gardeners don't master them perfectly. One procedure that raises doubts is transplanting. Vegetable growers often debate whether this is necessary for this bell pepper, as the root system of this nightshade plant is known to be very fragile.

But at the same time, plants need space to grow, which cannot be provided by growing many seedlings in one cramped box.

This is precisely what speaks in favor of replanting, but if you decide to do it, you should familiarize yourself with all the rules, since the fragile roots are really very easy to damage, and their restoration (if it is even possible) will take time.

Is it necessary at all?

Before discussing the pros and cons, it's worth understanding what transplanting actually is. This is the process of transplanting young plants from a common container into individual small pots. This is an important agricultural process designed to acclimate the plant to the transition. Furthermore, this procedure helps provide the plant with the optimal amount of nutrients and allows for the growth of strong, healthy seedlings.

This is done so that they can be transplanted to a permanent location later. Sometimes, several sprouted seeds are sown in one container at once, and after germination, one or two of the strongest seedlings are left. Once the young seedlings have established themselves and it's time to plant, they are moved along with the soil (to reduce the risk of root damage). This method is called transshipment.

When planting densely, it is advisable to separate the seedlings as early as possible, since over time the sprouts begin to shade each other, and their roots become closely intertwined, which complicates the process.

Young seedlings often don't even notice the change in location, but for older seedlings, this process is quite painful. If the bell pepper is grown in a box, small trays, or several seedlings in a single container, this procedure is still necessary for the normal growth and development of the plant.

With or without…

Pros and cons of the procedure

Despite all the disadvantages, picking has a number of advantages:

• It can increase crop yields, since it allows for sowing a large amount of planting material;

The process involves removing the growing point of the main root. This stage stimulates the development of adventitious and lateral roots, which are located in the upper, most fertile soil layer. This allows the plant to receive more nutrients, which means better development and growth, producing large fruit ovaries.

• the plant that has undergone it has a stronger stem, which prevents damage and breakage;

Only vigorous and properly developing seedlings are selected. Underdeveloped and weak plants are removed, as they will no longer produce the expected harvest and, therefore, will not require additional effort, time, and maintenance costs.

• promotes good development of the root system, which perfectly holds the above-ground part even in strong gusts of wind;
• timely fight against diseases;

When growing seedlings from seeds, all plants are inspected for possible signs of disease, such as blackleg. Timely pruning allows you to remove diseased seedlings and thus save healthy ones. Moreover, if done carefully, the resulting root system will become stronger, making it less vulnerable to most diseases, such as fusarium wilt and apical aphid.

• after this, the plant develops fibrous roots much better, providing the sprouts with the necessary substances and moisture;
• saves space from sowing to planting in a permanent location.

This is because seedlings sown close together begin to crowd each other out, and the available soil nutrients become insufficient. While seeding requires spacing the holes about 2-3 cm apart, full plant development is possible if they are spaced at least 35-40 cm apart.

Disadvantages include labor-intensive planting, requiring extreme caution to avoid damaging the roots. Frequent soil changes can lead to disease or widespread infection of seedlings. Pricked-out plants delay fruiting, as after transplanting, they actively develop their root system, while the above-ground part of the plant slows in growth.

Deadlines

Dividing seedlings too early can delay further development or even kill the plant completely, as it will not have enough strength to adapt to new growing conditions.

The optimal time is 15-20 days after the sprouts emerge. By this time, the stems should have formed 2-3 full leaves, not cotyledons. Plants with only cotyledons have developed a weak root system and will not be able to establish themselves in their new location.

An important aspect of growing pepper seedlings is preparing the soil in advance. The soil should consist of humus, turf soil, and river sand, which acts as a loosening agent. High-moor peat can be used instead of humus. Organic fertilizer should make up at least 30-45% of the total mixture.

It's a good idea to add a mineral supplement to the resulting soil, including superphosphate, potassium, and ammonium nitrate. A drainage layer is first placed at the bottom of the prepared pots or other containers to allow excess moisture to drain away, preventing soil oxidation.

Rules for taking into account the lunar calendar

Peppers are nightshade crops, so their yield primarily depends on the health of their root system and proper transplanting. It's generally accepted that the moon's phase directly affects all water-based organisms, which means this also applies to plants.

The new moon phase is considered unfavorable for the growth and development of plants, as all the nutrient-rich water is concentrated in the root system, and it is too dangerous to destroy it by dividing. Therefore, it is recommended to refrain from replanting during the new moon phase.

The waxing moon phase is accompanied by active growth and prosperity of plants, when all the nutritious nectar quickly passes from the root system to the leaves and flowers, and is also directed towards the formation of ovaries.

Therefore, the waxing moon is the best time to transplant seedlings for future growth into full-fledged, productive plants. Even if the roots are damaged, the plant has every chance of quickly recovering and continuing to grow.

The full moon phase is characterized by the accumulation of most beneficial elements in the upper part of seedlings, and increased vulnerability of the root system. This is why the full moon, like the new moon, is an unfavorable period for our work. Therefore, such work should be avoided.

During the waning moon, nutrients gradually return to the deepest roots, providing strength for their continued growth and strengthening. This stage is a neutral option for transplanting seedlings into new containers, but it requires maximum care and attention.

So, in 2024 the most favorable days for our work are:

• February: 11-23;
• March: 11-24;
• April: 9-23;
• May: 9-22.

Unfavorable:

• February: 10 and 24;
• March: 10 and 25;
• April: 8 and 24;
• May: 8 and 23.

The rest: neutral.

The process step by step

Since pricking out has been proven to damage roots, it's better to use a safer transplanting method, such as sowing seeds in a seed pod or in small trays. When sowing, place the seeds in a common container so they are spaced apart and their roots don't become entangled.

About a few hours before, water the soil thoroughly to ensure it holds the roots firmly and doesn't crumble. This soil is much easier to remove from the old container. Next, prepare the new container: individual pots, cups, or a container divided into sections.

The containers and potting mix must be disinfected (a solution of potassium permanganate can be used). Fill the containers 1/3 full with fresh soil, then begin the main process:

1. Using a small tool (a spoon or spatula), carefully lift the pepper seedlings out of the old container. It's best to separate them one at a time. If you manage to extract two seedlings together, carefully separate them by hand and plant them in separate cups.

   

2. A small hole is made in the fresh soil and the seedlings are placed in it so that they are at the same depth as in the previous container.

   

3. The roots are covered with soil and compacted slightly so that the sprout is firmly anchored in the ground.
4. Planted peppers watered with warm water.

   

Experts note that the position of the root in the soil plays a crucial role in the subsequent development of the plant. It's important that it isn't bent or twisted counterclockwise. Experienced vegetable growers recommend planting the seedling deep in the soil when transplanting, covering it with soil, and gently pulling it out. This will straighten the roots and ensure they assume the correct position underground.

Into cups

The most important step is to be extremely careful when performing the procedure, as it's very easy to damage the roots during transplantation. Water the seedlings thoroughly several hours beforehand to reduce the risk of damaging the root system when removing the plant from its original container.

The picking into cups is carried out as follows:

1. Fill the cups with potting soil and compact it well. Using a pencil, make a deep hole in the center of the cup and water it with warm water.
2. Using a small spatula or tablespoon, carefully remove one sprout at a time from the box.

   

3. The seedling is planted deep enough to allow the roots to spread freely. To do this, first place the pepper plant slightly deeper in the soil, cover with soil, and then pull it upward slightly. This will allow the roots to assume the correct position underground.
4. The soil around the plant is compacted so that the seedling stands firmly in the cup.

   

5. The transplanted crop is watered lightly with water at room temperature.

It's best to continue growing transplanted plants in the same location they were in before transplanting. Changing conditions can slow the seedlings' growth, as they'll need some time to adapt.

In diapers

Experienced vegetable growers recommend growing seedlings in "diapers," as this method saves not only space but also containers. A plastic bag is most often used as a diaper.

If peppers are growing in a snail, water it first and then carefully unroll it onto a flat surface. When growing in boxes, water it again and carefully remove the sprouts one by one.

The process of transferring to diapers includes the following manipulations:

• the plastic bag is leveled and a little moistened soil (about 3 tablespoons) is poured onto the surface;
• the extracted seedling is placed on a diaper so that the lower leaves are above its edge;
• the root system is sprinkled with one spoon of soil;

  

• Carefully roll up the film, tucking the bottom edge under to prevent soil from spilling out. The result should be "rolls" that can be secured with rubber bands. Place the seedlings in containers without holes and move them to a bright room.

  

The advantage of "swaddling" is the ease of subsequent planting in open ground. Simply unroll each roll and transplant the strengthened seedlings to their permanent location. This method ensures the plant's roots remain intact and unharmed.

Aftercare

Immediately after the procedure, the cups with the plants are transferred to a warm, bright place, protected from direct sunlight for a few days. If the seedlings grow in the same location as before transplanting, they will adapt much more quickly than if they are moved to a greenhouse with a different microclimate.

The seedlings should be watered every 5-6 days. The first watering should be done a week after transplanting. Watering with warm water in the morning helps prevent disease. Before planting in the garden, the seedlings are fertilized twice: 10-14 days after dividing and two weeks after the first feeding.

Fertilizer must be in liquid form and applied only to moist soil (immediately after or simultaneously with watering). For the first time, you can use the following solution:

• 10 g ammonium nitrate;
• 30 g potassium sulfate;
• 40 g superphosphate;
• 10 liters of water.

If necessary, you can feed young peppers with microelements: add about 1 g of zinc sulfate, 2 g of copper sulfate, 1 g of boric acid and up to 2 g of potassium permanganate to 10 liters of water.

After this, you can begin hardening off the seedlings. The cups are then moved outside, gradually acclimating the plants to outdoor conditions. The air temperature during this time should not fall below 15°C.

Possible mistakes when planting peppers

The most common mistake beginners make is choosing the wrong time. Vegetable growers believe the procedure should be performed when the plants have just 2-3 leaves, as the root system is just beginning to develop and can withstand stress more easily. Older plants, which have 4-6 leaves, have well-developed roots, making it very difficult to avoid damaging them during planting.

The diameter of the pot (cup) should be within 8 cm. In addition, the container must have drainage holes.

Having familiarized yourself with the specifics of this plant, you'll learn that peppers don't develop additional roots like tomatoes, so it's important not to allow the stems to become too deeply entrenched in the soil. Seedlings should be planted to the same depth they were in the soil before transplanting.

Common mistakes also include overwatering and failing to fertilize at the right time. After fertilizing, water the peppers immediately, and wait at least 5-7 days before re-watering. The seedlings may appear a little wilted at first, but don't fertilize immediately; wait at least 14 days.

How to grow without picking

Growing peppers without seedlings is simply impossible for those living in temperate climates. And in cold climates, the crop can only bear fruit in hotbeds and greenhouses. Gardeners in these regions don't want to waste time restoring the roots after transplanting, so they prefer to plant the seeds directly in individual cups, 2-3 at a time, and then select the strongest seedling.

Special peat tablets have recently become popular, but they're not ideal for peppers. Their walls are made of cardboard, which doesn't dissolve well in soil. This means the root system will need considerable time to break through this barrier. Vegetable growers note that cardboard significantly delays seedling growth.

Vegetables can be grown in plastic film or paper cylinders. Newsprint is best, as it quickly disintegrates when exposed to water, making room for the roots. Plastic cylinders, on the other hand, are easy to unroll and remove from the soil without disturbing the roots.

If the crop is grown in individual cups, stop watering them a few days before transplanting. During this time, the soil will have time to compact slightly and move away from the sides of the container, making it much easier for the grower to remove the root ball.

Gardeners note that the plant has a compact root system, so the planting cups shouldn't be too deep. They recommend transplanting before the roots reach the sides of the cup (when the plant hasn't fully taken over the soil). It's best to choose fairly wide containers for planting.

Reviews

Sergey: "I've been growing pepper seedlings for many years, so I'm very familiar with transplanting. I divide the seedlings into disposable plastic cups after the fifth leaf emerges in the second half of March. They grow in the cups until they're planted in the greenhouse (until mid-May).

As soon as the sprouts begin to split, I remove all the leaves and flowers down to the "slingshot." This procedure stimulates growth and abundant fruit set."

Natalia: "I've heard many times that peppers don't tolerate transplanting well, or having their stems planted too deeply in the soil. Despite this, my plants grow well after transplanting, and none have been damaged. When the plant's stems become woody, they develop additional roots, which I cover with soil.

When planting seedlings in the soil, I can deepen the stems by about 1 cm. The yields are always stable, the main thing is to plant them in a warm bed."

Vitaly: "If you don't transplant, the seedlings will grow poorly. When planted in open ground, such specimens become puny and produce poor fruit. Plants aren't particularly sensitive to transplanting; if they have a lot of leaves, they'll tolerate the process without any problems. The key is to remove them along with the root ball."

Novel: "A few years ago, 10% of my seedlings died after transplanting. This was most likely due to damaged roots. I was advised to separate the plants into separate containers after they had formed 7-9 leaves. Now, 99% of the seedlings survive until they're transplanted into the greenhouse."

Marina: "I grow vegetables using seedlings and have never pricked them out. Peppers really don't like being transplanted, so I sow the seeds in individual containers, two at a time, and then plant them in the garden bed. I take extreme care when transplanting, as damaging the roots can slow growth."