Why peppers don't grow in a greenhouse after planting: treatment methods

Newcomers to vegetable gardening may encounter a problem: peppers fail to grow in a greenhouse after planting. The causes are improper care, poorly created conditions, and diseases developing in the seedlings. This impacts the yield of the crop and subsequent vegetables grown in the same soil. Therefore, it is necessary to clarify the problem and begin to eliminate it.

How to tell if peppers aren't growing well

The signs by which bushes that have lost their ability to grow normally are identified are the same for all pepper varieties:

1. The stems of the plants become thin, stretch out in height and turn pale.
2. The leaves are of an unusual shape, small in size, pale and withered.
3. Dry, discolored or dark, damp spots on the bush's surface.
4. The trunks and shoots are crooked, and the plant lacks greenery.

Overall, the plant clearly indicates that it needs treatment or disposal. Growth failure isn't limited to just one part of the plant; all or at least several symptoms can be present at once. It's best to choose a comprehensive treatment to address the root of the problem, not the symptoms.

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There are many reasons why a vegetable stops growing. Any one of them, or even a combination of them, can lead to the plant's biological death:

• early planting of seedlings;
• insufficiently warmed soil;
• lack of preliminary development in seedlings;
• incorrect lighting, watering and temperature regime;
• early picking;
• lack of soil cultivation;
• incorrect ratio of minerals in the soil;
• poor choice of seeds for growing;
• the bush is diseased;
• the seedlings were attacked by pests.

Peppers grown outdoors experience similar problems if their growth has stalled. This is primarily due to inadequate care. Pepper plants do not transplant well into any type of soil, so this is a common problem.

Caring for peppers for favorable growth

Peppers aren't growing in a greenhouse due to poor agricultural practices. These are the conditions needed for bell peppers to produce a bountiful harvest and thrive:

1. The sowing time for early-ripening varieties is 8 weeks before planting; mid-ripening varieties – 8-10 weeks; late-ripening varieties – 10 weeks.
2. Temperature regime: room temperature (24-25°C) during the day and 16-17°C at night. Any other temperature will disrupt moisture exchange.
3. Intense but diffused light. The greenhouse blocks some sunlight, so manual lighting is recommended: alternating two warm-colored LEDs with one cool-colored one.
4. Pepper seedlings often fail to thrive due to improper transplanting. This vegetable generally doesn't tolerate transplanting well, so follow the instructions: transplant plants that have at least two leaves, 2-3 weeks after germination. The taproot should be strictly avoided.
5. Growing bushes are watered as they dry out. However, the soil around the roots should not be allowed to dry out completely. Warm water is needed for irrigation. To avoid excess water in the root zone, some of the water is sprayed directly onto the plant itself.
6. Preparing the soil includes: digging and weeding the beds; digging water channels; disinfection with copper sulfate; digging planting holes; and applying fertilizer.

Fertilizers and a balance of micro- and macronutrients are important for this vegetable; they grow in soil with low acidity and high levels of phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen. Fertilizers are applied as a mixture mixed with water. Once the peppers have begun to grow, apply fertilizer alternately, with intervals of 1-2 weeks.

The planting pattern and method should be flexible; 30x30 and 65x30 cm are most commonly used. Small shoots should be transplanted when the soil is warm. The temperature should not drop below 15°C. Water the seedlings to avoid moisture stress during the initial period after planting in a greenhouse or open ground.

If these planting conditions are met, peppers will grow without problems. There is a risk of disease, which should be carefully monitored, treated, and prevented.

For vigorous seedling growth in open ground, virtually everything needed is the same as for greenhouse plantings. However, garden plants don't require special lighting conditions or artificial pollination; everything occurs naturally.

In greenhouse conditions, seedlings are more sensitive to temperature fluctuations, so following proper agricultural practices is essential. Artificial lighting and diffuse illumination are essential for this sun-loving vegetable. However, it is recommended to remove infected and damaged shoots, and sometimes even entire bushes, in all cases. This will significantly reduce the risk of problems spreading.

Disease prevention

Peppers in greenhouses also wilt due to diseases. To prevent these and keep the seedlings healthy, treat the beds for pests. Spraying with an infusion of onion, pine needles, garlic, or calendula will prevent insects from harming the young plants. After disinfecting, shade the plants for a while to prevent sunburn. Alternating organic and mineral fertilizers will help resolve growth issues. Fertilizers should be applied to moist soil.

Recommendations:

1. To ensure natural pollination of peppers, pollinating insects are attracted to the greenhouse with sweet solutions.
2. Monitoring fruits for mechanical damage makes it possible to prevent the spread of infection through damaged areas.
3. They recommend treating with 1% Bordeaux mixture after planting.

Diseases affecting growth

If your pepper seedlings aren't growing well, the plant's appearance will tell you what to do. The plant is often susceptible to a disease, but treating it will allow it to continue growing. Late blight causes brown holes to appear on the leaves, followed by a white fungal coating. This can be prevented by taking preventative measures before planting and treating affected plants:

• Fitosporin-M;
• Ordan;
• Oxychom.

With blackleg, the roots darken, then the stem, and the plant is deprived of nutrients. First, growth stops, then the entire bush dies. Treating with a fungicide of your choice will prevent the problem. Verticillium wilt is caused by a soil-borne fungus, causing the leaves to turn brown. Affected bushes can only be disposed of; preventative treatments are available only for seeds or seedlings.

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Tobacco mosaic rot isn't just a nickname; when peppers wilt, a mosaic pattern forms. Leaves die, and fruit quality deteriorates. There's no cure; the only solution is to dispose of the plant. All types of rot—blossom end, white, and gray—are treated with fungicides; a coating of the appropriate color is a signal to take action. Prevention is possible in the early stages.

Insect pests

Urgent problems include pests that parasitize plants and slow their growth. Here's a list of insects that can affect plant growth:

• aphid;
• spider mite;
• slugs;
• Colorado potato beetle, its larvae;
• May beetle, its larvae;
• whiteflies.

A comprehensive approach to pest control is needed, specifically treating the affected area with insecticides. The modern market offers products that are either broad-spectrum or specifically targeted against specific pest species.

Folk remedies for treatment

Along with medications, gardeners use folk remedies to combat pests and viral or bacterial infections. For example, to accelerate growth, they feed their plants using tea leaves. A cup of used tea leaves is diluted with 3 liters of water. The infusion is left to steep for 5 days and then watered evenly.

Mix in a ratio of 30:60 g:

• yeast;
• granulated sugar.

The mixture is added to a liter of water above room temperature and the solution is poured onto the soil near the roots. A response to the solution is observed from the third day onward.

You can make fertilizer from ash by sprinkling it around your bushes. It retains moisture in the soil, preventing weeds from growing. It also normalizes acidity, repels pests, and suppresses pathogenic viruses and bacteria.

Top dressing

It often happens that after growing one vegetable, subsequent vegetables fail to thrive and begin to wilt. Adherence to agricultural practices and proper soil fertilization are important for vegetable growth. For example, peppers should not be planted next to:

• eggplants;
• potatoes;
• tomatoes.

It is necessary to add a mixture of minerals:

• 40 g superphosphate;
• 40 g ammonium nitrate;
• 20 g potassium sulfate.

All are diluted in 10 liters of water. Fertilizing is done in stages, with organic and mineral fertilizers applied one after the other. Superphosphates and nitrogen fertilizers are alternated to balance the effect and enrich the seedlings with a full range of micro- and macronutrients. Two weeks after planting, organic fertilizers are added—manure or bird droppings.

You can't wait until the seedlings have grown; you need to prepare all the necessary conditions, ensure adequate nutrition, and ensure pest control while the seedlings are still growing. Otherwise, complications will arise, requiring the use of expensive, toxic fungicides and insecticides, which kill not only harmful but also beneficial microflora.