Who said you can't grow kiwi in a temperate climate? It's possible! There's a relative of the plant that thrives in temperate climates: the kolomikta actinidia. We'll cover planting and care, discuss problems and diseases, and look at photos.
Description
Actinidia kolomikta is a perennial. It is also known as a creeper, which reflects the plant's nature, as the shrub is a vine. Bushes are either male or female, so a garden should contain both sexes.
Trunk and bush
Up to 5 cm thick, scaly, over 10 m tall, with brown, slightly rough branches. The shoots spiral around supports. Very fast growing and long-lived.
You may be interested in:Roots
They are branched, some are shallow, but some extend more than a meter deep, as in the photo. Therefore, actinidia kolomikta should be planted and cared for gently, so the fruit's flavor will be enjoyable.
Leaves
They change color as they grow. The color ranges from bronze to pink, but there are also plants with green leaves with white tips. They range in length from 2 to 7 cm and come in a variety of shapes. The leaf blades are borne on petioles.
Flowers and inflorescences
Blooms from mid-June for almost a month. The flowers are milky-white with five petals, approximately 1 cm in diameter. They have a pleasant fragrance. They are pollinated by insects.
Fruit
Small, green, elliptical, kiwi-like fruits (see photo). If planted and cared for correctly, actinidia kolomikta ripens in August. The berries are edible.
Seeds
A huge amount in one fruit.
You may be interested in:Frost resistance
Since actinidia is native to East Asia, and many species are found in high-altitude regions, the shrub is quite winter-hardy and can withstand temperatures as low as -40°C (-40°F). However, spring frosts, once the plant has begun to grow, are dangerous.
Landing
Planting and caring for actinidia kolomikta requires some considerations. To ensure the bush looks beautiful, as pictured, follow these guidelines:
- Choosing a planting site. Although actinidia is frost-hardy, for more abundant flowering, choose sites protected from north winds. Plant near supports, at least 70 cm away from buildings, as the vine can climb them. Leave a meter between bushes. If there are many plants or they are used to create a hedge, plant them in rows running north to south.
- Planting time. Since actinidia is primarily planted with a closed root system (ZKS), it can be planted throughout the growing season. The last time is in the fall – three weeks before the first frost.
- Soil. Since actinidia can grow in mountainous areas, it's undemanding regarding soil. It's best planted in slightly acidic or neutral soils. The soil should be free of additional moisture from groundwater and stagnant rainwater.
- Selecting seedlings. Purchase only from specialized retailers and preferably with a closed root system, as exposed roots do not take root well and the actinidia quickly dies.
- Planting holes are made in the shape of a cube with sides measuring half a meter. If the plants are to form a hedge, a trench of the same width is dug. The bottom is filled with drainage material, and humus, ash, and fertilizers such as potassium, superphosphate, and ammonium nitrate are added.
- Planting. Place the pot on a small mound of soil, water it first, then cover with soil and water again, but generously enough to thoroughly soak the entire planting.
- Supports are essential, as the vine grows rapidly upward.
During the first period of planting, you can cover the plants with covering material for light shade.
You may be interested in:Planting with other plants
Actinidia kolomikta can be planted alongside other plants that share the same growing and care requirements. The vine, as pictured, makes a beautiful curtain for many flowers. Plants that will support the kolomikta's development are grown alongside it, such as beans, runner beans, and peas, which enrich the soil.
You can also plant annuals that will attract beneficial insects and repel pests, such as calendula, marigolds, and others. Hazelnuts and currants make good shrub neighbors. Apple trees, however, should not be planted near actinidia vines, as the tree, especially a young one, can be suffocated by the vine.
Actinidia care
After planting, actinidia kolomikta requires care to ensure lush bushes like those pictured. The basic care steps are the same as for other plants.
| Stages of care | Explanation |
| Loosening | They are applied periodically, but not deeply due to the particular location of the roots; it is better to do this after watering. |
| Mulching | They are made to retain soil moisture. The soil can be covered with pine sawdust, shavings, grass, hay, or humus. |
| Watering | As the soil dries out, actinidia plants need a shower or misting in hot weather, as their leaves require increased moisture. |
| Weed removal | They do this as they grow, carefully pulling them out of the ground. |
| Fertilization | At the beginning of the growing season, fertilize with an infusion of mullein, foliage, or nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers. |
| Trimming |
It is carried out either in mid-summer or late autumn, after the leaves have fallen, leaving the most powerful shoots, the rest are cut to a ring. But more often they do sanitary pruning, cutting out dry and damaged branches, and thinning out. Branches that bore fruit are pruned, leaving 3-4 buds. New shoots will develop from these. Spring pruning is only necessary to remove damage. |
| Garter |
To avoid harvesting from several stories above ground, actinidia is tied to a trellis, with shoots directed sideways. Its height is no more than 3.5 meters. The garter, as with grapes, is carried out as the branches grow using twine, which, as growth increases, will break under the influence of the weather. |
| Harvesting | Since the fruits fall off very quickly as they ripen, after the first berries are picked, the rest are also collected and stored in boxes where the actinidia ripens. |
| Reproduction |
Cuttings. Shoots are cut in July to lengths of approximately 10 cm and have 3 leaves. They are then planted at an angle in prepared containers, 5 cm apart. They are watered and covered with spunbond. Rooted cuttings are not transplanted to their permanent locations until the following spring. Layering. Branches are secured to the ground with hooks in the spring and covered with soil. The following spring, the rooted shoots are separated. Seeds. Germination requires stratification, which occurs naturally in winter. But if the seeds are stored at home, they are stratified in the refrigerator for about 2 months. |
| Preparing for winter | Add soil to cover the root collar. |
You may be interested in:Diseases
The kiwi analogue is almost not affected by diseases, but some problems still exist.
| Disease | Description |
| Phyllostictosis |
The appearance of black spots bordered by purple, which eventually develop into holes. The plant may be affected by pink mold. Such leaf plates are torn off and thrown into the fire, the rest are treated with Bordeaux mixture. To prevent the spread of the disease, fallen leaves are removed from under the bushes. |
| Ramularia (white spot) | The leaves have white spots bordered by black. The lesions are burned to prevent the fungal disease from spreading. |
| Powdery mildew | It appears during periods of severe waterlogging, if the shoots are poorly exposed to sunlight and lack ventilation. A milky coating on the leaves can destroy the actinidia. |
| Late blight | The entire plant is affected, with fluid leaking from the root collar, leaves falling off, and the bark cracking. The main cause of the disease is overwatering. Preventative measures are taken, and treatment with copper sulfate is recommended. |
| Gray rot | Brown spots on the leaf blades are covered with a gray coating. Actinidia is treated with fungicides such as Fundazol or Topaz. |
Ascochyta leaf spot |
Dark brown spots on the leaves increase in size, gradually affecting the entire plant. Treatment with fungicides. |
| Leaf spot | A huge number of blackheads appear. Spray with copper sulfate. |
To prevent the vine from becoming infected with fungal diseases, it is necessary to apply copper-containing preparations in the spring.
Pests
Another problem for actinidia kolomikta is pests. The main ones are leaf beetles, which appear in the spring and chew not only the leaf blades but also the buds, leaving their larvae in them. Pests are controlled with a solution of sodium hydroxide.
Other beetles, including longhorn beetles and bark beetles, attack wood and bark. In these cases, the plant is treated with insecticides.
Proper planting and care of actinidia kolomikta will reward homeowners with a fruit like the one pictured, rich in vitamin C, which will help protect against winter colds.
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