Planting pepper seedlings in open ground

Sweet peppers, or "Bulgarian" as they are known in our country, are rich in nutrients, have a bright, juicy flavor, and thrive in Russia's challenging climate. That's why this vegetable is so beloved by our compatriots.

It's rare to find this crop in a garden. Peppers are mostly planted in open ground, as the seedlings take root easily, the peppers grow evenly, and they're relatively easy to care for.

How to properly plant peppers in open ground

Cultivation of this crop begins with timely and proper planting of seedlings. The entire harvest depends on this stage, so the process of sowing seeds and raising pepper seedlings must be approached with great care.

Preparing seeds for sowing

Sweet peppers, like other staple crops in our country, are grown from seedlings. Pepper seeds are typically sown for seedlings in mid-March, with the intention of planting the plants outdoors by the end of May. Naturally, sowing times vary slightly depending on the pepper variety. Early-ripening varieties are sown in mid-March, while late-ripening varieties are sown in late February.

Properly selected and planted seeds are the key to a bountiful future harvest. To achieve this, the seeds are carefully selected, leaving only firm, large, and attractive seeds. Next, the seeds are soaked in hot water and allowed to swell. Once the seeds have swelled, they are wrapped in a damp cloth and left there for a couple of days until they sprout. Only after all these manipulations are the seeds planted in prepared fertile soil. By this point, the seeds are ready for vigorous growth, so seedlings will appear within 3-5 days.

Before planting, prepare not only the seeds but also the soil itself. The soil mixture should consist of humus, peat, and soil. A little sand can also be added to improve soil moisture penetration. To disinfect the soil, generously sprinkle the mixture with ash, then mix everything thoroughly and sterilize at 45-55 degrees Celsius (113-133 degrees Fahrenheit) (you can use an oven or microwave).

Sowing seeds

Typically, seeds are planted in rows in seedling boxes or special trays. However, it's best to use individual peat pots, as peppers don't tolerate transplanting very well.

Water the seedlings carefully (sprinkler irrigation is best), then cover with plastic and place in a warm, sunny spot. If there's insufficient light, place a fluorescent lamp over the seedlings.

As soon as the first shoots appear, remove the plastic wrap from the boxes and increase the temperature to 28 degrees Celsius. At night, it's best to lower the temperature to 15-17 degrees Celsius.

Air humidity should be moderate, since in over-watered conditions the seedlings will quickly be affected by black leg.

Water for irrigation should be warm and settled.

Planting seedlings in the ground

After transplanting, peppers begin their intensive development. Depending on the variety, it takes an average of 90-100 days from sowing the seeds to planting the mature plants in the garden.

Seven to ten days before the grand moment of planting, you need to begin preparing the young peppers for their new life outdoors. To do this, harden off the seedlings by placing the boxes on the veranda or outside on warm days. The indoor temperature is also gradually lowered, gradually acclimating the peppers to the cooler temperatures. Increase the duration of the outdoor time each day. In the final days, you can leave the seedlings on the veranda overnight.

Choosing a location

Choosing the right location for your pepper bed is important. Bell peppers are heat-loving plants, so they require full sun. The site should be protected from northerly winds and away from tall shrubs and fruit trees. A south-facing site is best.

Shade is detrimental to peppers. If the plant doesn't receive enough light, it will stretch, its nutrient supply will decrease, and very few buds will form.

The best predecessors for peppers are zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers, melons, cabbage, legumes, and perennial herbs. However, it is not recommended to plant peppers in areas previously planted with nightshade crops, as they can leave harmful microbes in the soil that will immediately attack the pepper plants.

Pepper beds are planted in fertile, light soil with a neutral pH. If the groundwater level is too low, peppers will grow poorly, so be on the safe side and plant the bed at a higher elevation.

Soil preparation

The yield of garden crops depends largely on the cultivation and preparation of the soil for sowing. If soil preparation begins in the fall, weeds should be cleared first. Autumn digging should be deep to ensure that all pest larvae are exposed and die during the winter.

If the soil is clayey, add organic matter (manure, compost, or peat), as well as sand and ash, at a rate of one liter per square meter. When deep plowing, large clumps of soil can be left unbroken; this will help the soil retain moisture better after the snow melts.

In the spring, the plot is also dug over, only this time breaking up clods and leveling the soil. This time, mineral fertilizers such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus are added to the soil.

By the time you plant the seedlings, the soil should be "ripe," meaning it should be thoroughly dry after the winter. You can determine if the soil is ripe by taking a handful of soil from a depth of 10 centimeters and throwing it from a height of one meter. If the soil crumbles, it's dry and ready for use. Seedlings will grow unevenly in waterlogged soil.

If the soil wasn't treated in the fall, harmful microorganisms are likely still present in its pores. Therefore, before planting seedlings, disinfect the bed with a copper sulfate solution.

Planting dates

Every agricultural crop has its own planting time. Peppers are no exception. Pepper seedlings are planted outdoors in late May, when the weather is warm and dry, and the temperature reaches at least 17 degrees Celsius.

Peppers' maturity and readiness for their new life outdoors can be determined by strong stems, 7-8 fully opened leaves, and the beginning of the formation of the first flower buds. Care should be taken to prevent the seedlings from becoming overgrown; that is, the bushes should not be in bloom at the time of planting, otherwise the plants will not survive the transplant well.

By this time, the soil usually warms up to 8-10 degrees Celsius, bringing beneficial microorganisms to life, which will help the seedlings quickly strengthen and grow. For the first month, the bushes are protected from the nighttime cold with plastic covers, and the portable greenhouse is removed only by the end of June.

Important: pepper seedlings are planted in the greenhouse as early as April.

Planting plan

As mentioned earlier, peppers thrive in warmth, so it's crucial to provide the plants with uniform light. The denser the plants are planted, the less light (and other nutrients) each will receive, and consequently, the fruit will appear later and in relatively smaller quantities.

Pepper seedlings are planted in separate holes at a considerable distance from each other. Early-ripening varieties are spaced 25-30 centimeters apart, leaving at least 45-50 centimeters between rows. Rows of mid-season peppers are spaced 60-70 centimeters apart. Late-ripening varieties of sweet pepper require more space, so they are spaced approximately 35 centimeters apart, with rows widened to 70 centimeters.

Planting seedlings

Seedlings are planted directly into the garden bed in peat pots, or carefully removed from a regular container using the transshipment method (leaving the soil ball on the roots) and placed deeper into the prepared hole. Before planting, the holes are filled with up to two liters of water and a handful of wood ash and minerals are added.

The peppers should be planted at the same depth as they were in the seedling container. This depth is the junction of the stem and root system. The root collar shouldn't be buried deep underground, but it shouldn't be exposed either. After the plant is placed in the hole, cover it with soil, pressing it lightly (but not compacting it), and water with warm, settled water. When filling the hole with soil, avoid creating a mound of soil, otherwise the moisture will spread in all directions.

Post-planting care

Timely care for pepper plants will yield a bountiful harvest of delicious, high-quality fruit. Sweet peppers require warmth, light, and water.

Initially, when peppers are planted in the beds, the plants are still weak enough to withstand nighttime frosts. Therefore, for the first month (and during a cold summer, for the entire growing season), the beds should be covered with plastic. It's best to use a woven material, which will retain heat and prevent a greenhouse effect.

Pepper plants require a constant supply of sunlight. Any shade can slow growth. To prevent this, regularly remove side shoots and lower leaves.

Tall pepper varieties require support. While some varieties can grow up to a meter or more in height, these plants are unable to support their own weight and the weight of their fruit. Therefore, a sturdy stake is placed next to each plant, to which the plant is tied according to its growth.

You should also regularly weed the pepper bed and hill up the bushes if necessary.

Peppers are self-pollinating plants. But to help them get the job done, it's helpful to attract pollinating insects. You can do this by spraying the plants with a sugar solution.

Watering peppers

Pepper seedlings are quite slow to adapt to new conditions. Most often, you'll notice the plants wilting and looking unhealthy. However, it's important not to overwater during this time, as many gardeners rush to help the plants recover, ultimately overwatering the young peppers.

However, it's important to keep in mind that wilting of the leaves after planting is a natural process. Therefore, during the first few weeks, water the bushes three times a week with warm, settled water. Watering should be done at the roots to avoid damaging the leaves. During the fruiting period, increase the frequency of watering—the bushes now require up to 4-5 liters per day. Therefore, it's best to water slightly more frequently.

If the weather is hot and clear, flowers may fall off and ovary formation may stop. The pollen becomes sterile. Therefore, it's important to maintain water balance and, during such periods, switch to daily sprinkler watering.

Trying to protect peppers from drought, many gardeners resort to the opposite extreme – overwatering the soil. This can lead to fungal growth in the soil pores and infection of the underground parts of the plants with rot or mold.

To maintain a happy medium, experienced vegetable growers mulch the soil under their bushes. Mulch, such as sawdust or dried grass, can keep the soil moist for a long time and protect the roots from overheating.

Loosening

Loosening the soil is another important agricultural technique for growing peppers. This procedure creates favorable conditions for moisture penetration and air flow to the roots.

Loosening the soil helps loosen it so that a dry crust does not form on it, blocking the pores through which the life-giving forces of water and oxygen reach the plant.

The first loosening is done 5-6 days after planting the seedlings in the garden bed. It's best to loosen the soil with a small hoe, gently lifting the top layer of soil. The first few times, loosen only superficially, as pepper roots are extremely fragile and any movement can damage them.

Benefits of loosening:

• air exchange improves;
• the plant grows faster and the root becomes stronger;
• the functioning of beneficial microorganisms is stimulated;
• weeds are destroyed.

If the soil in your area is heavy and lumpy, you'll need to loosen it more frequently to prevent water stagnation and fungal growth. Loosened soil will allow for better aeration.

Top dressings

The first stage

Timely fertilization is the most important factor for bell pepper fertility. Peppers grown outdoors require regular and varied fertilization. The first fertilization is done during the seedling stage, when the plants have 2-3 leaves. A mixture of water and ammonium nitrate is used as fertilizer. Potassium fertilizer and superphosphate are also essential.

The second feeding is done two weeks after the first application of fertilizer. Mineral fertilizers are also used. Feeding pepper bushes with a special mixture of water and nettles is effective.

The last feeding of seedlings is carried out a few days before planting the seedlings in the garden bed, increasing the potassium element in the fertilizer composition.

The second stage

Once the peppers are planted in open ground, the second stage of fertilization begins. During this period, not only mineral fertilizers are used, but also organic ones. Chicken manure or compost are best.

Initially, plants need to build up their vegetative mass, which is achieved by applying nitrogen to the roots. Peppers also require minerals such as potassium and phosphorus.

The first feeding is carried out 10-14 days after planting the seedlings in open ground. The main nutrients include nitrophoska, bird droppings, and water. This mixture is poured under the plant roots.

Once the peppers bloom, it's time for their second feeding. To ensure the plants have the strength and resources to produce fruit, they need potassium. Wood ash is rich in it, so you can sprinkle the pepper plants with it. You can also fertilize the plants with a mixture of urea, humus, manure, and water.

The final feeding is done to stimulate fruit growth. Potassium salt and superphosphate are the best fertilizers for fruit filling. Spray the bushes with this mixture.

Advice: Nitrogen should be used in large quantities only in the first month, otherwise the plants will become “fat,” meaning the tops will grow at the expense of the formation of buds and, subsequently, fruits.

Forming peppers

All peppers require pruning. This procedure greatly improves ventilation and light exposure for the plants.

The method of shaping depends on the variety: if the plant is tall, then it is necessary to trim and remove excess shoots, and pinch the top to stop growth; for short pepper varieties, lower shoots and non-fruiting branches are cut off.

Rules for forming a pepper bush:

1. When the plant reaches the stage where fruiting branches begin to grow, the first crown bud blooms in the internodes. This bud should be removed to encourage branch development.
2. For optimal growth, leave 2-3 main shoots (forming a three-stemmed bush). These main shoots are the strongest and most well-developed branches, which will produce the main crop. Pinch off the remaining side shoots, leaving one lower leaf. Tip: remove excess shoots to prevent them from robbing the main stems of nutrients.
3. The buds that form in the internodes are removed.
4. The lower leaves of the bush are removed, as they interfere with normal ventilation.
5. During plant development, it should be inspected periodically to identify sterile shoots. These should be removed immediately. These shoots originate below the fork of the main stem.
6. Be sure to remove all yellowed or damaged leaves, as they can spread disease to the entire plant. Tip: If you don't remove excess leaves, the flowering area won't produce fruit.
7. A plant often produces far more buds than it can handle. However, many gardeners believe that the more buds, the greater the yield. More often, the opposite is true: the plant wastes energy. It's worth considering that the optimal number of flowers per bush is 17-19; any remaining flowers should be removed immediately. If flowers appear later, they should also be removed, as they only weaken the plant and do not increase fruit production. Therefore, it's crucial to pinch out all newly emerging buds after a sufficient number of flowers have formed.

Leaf pruning:

1. When the fruit on the lower cluster is sufficiently ripe, trim the leaves on the main stem. It's important not to trim them all, but to do so gradually, or more accurately, removing two leaves per week.
2. As soon as the peppers on the second brush also ripen, a second pruning is carried out.
3. Next, a similar procedure is carried out when the fruits on all other brushes ripen.
4. The pruning of leaves ends one and a half months before harvesting.

Protection from diseases and pests

Plants grown outdoors are more susceptible to disease than those safely sheltered in greenhouses. Peppers, unfortunately, are prone to illness. They are particularly sensitive to improper care. If proper agricultural practices are not followed, the plants are likely to become ill.

Common pepper diseases:

1. Late blight is a fungal disease of pepper fruits. Dark spots appear on the vegetables. Treatment should be with products such as Oxychom, Zaslon, and Barrier. It's best to apply these treatments only when the plants begin to bloom.
2. Fusarium– another fungal disease that manifests itself as yellowing of pepper leaves. Affected plants are removed immediately, while healthy ones are carefully tended, implementing all agricultural practices promptly and preventing overwatering and weed infestation. Advice: It is better not to grow this crop in the area where diseased peppers grew.
3. BronzenessorSpotted wilt is a fungal disease that appears on the leaves, which are often covered in dark, purple-tinged spots. As the disease progresses, the top of the plant's trunk dies, and the fruit also becomes spotted. The fungus is killed with Fundazol. Healthy fruit are removed from the bush before treatment.
4. Blossom-end rot is a disease that causes large black spots to appear on fruit. It can have several causes, including insufficient soil moisture and excess nitrogen and calcium. Affected bushes are removed, and healthy seedlings are treated with calcium nitrate.
5. Stolbur or Phytoplasmosis is a complete plant infestation. Root rot occurs, plants stop growing, fruits become small and malformed, lose flavor, and leaves turn yellow and curl. Leafhoppers, which transmit this disease, are often the cause. To protect peppers from this dreadful disease, they are treated. Acaroi immediately after planting and before the first flowers appear.
6. Blackleg is a disease that attacks the stem at the root. As a result, the stem degenerates and breaks off. This disease occurs due to dense plantings, which result in poor ventilation, allowing fungal spores to develop. Prevention is achieved with special preparations, which can only be used before flowering. If the soil is too wet, it should be sprinkled with ash. Unfortunately, this disease is practically incurable, so affected bushes will need to be removed from the garden.

Pests also plague pepper crops, sometimes causing significant damage to the harvest.

The most dangerous insects for pepper are parasites:

• aphid;
• spider mite;
• wireworm;
• slugs.

Each of these pests affects pepper plants in its own way. Wireworms, for example, gnaw at the roots of plants. They can be eliminated by digging the soil promptly and placing bait in the form of sweet fruits, which attract these insects. This way, they can be collected and destroyed.

Scattering nutshells and ground pepper around your garden will help keep slugs at bay. The pests will also start hunting for food, leaving you to simply collect the piles of slugs and remove them from your garden.

When fighting the mole cricket, immediately before planting, pour a little onion infusion into the holes, which will repel the pest from the pepper roots, which are sweet to it.

A solution of milk whey and water helps against aphids.

Spider mites nest on the undersides of leaves and suck their sap. You can get rid of them using chemicals or folk remedies: mix liquid soap with chopped onion or garlic and dandelion leaves. Spray the pepper plants with this solution.

Reviews

Tatiana

I grow sweet peppers every year in an open garden bed, as I don't have a greenhouse. My seedlings always turn out well: all the plants are strong and juicy. I plant the seedlings in mid-May under plastic cover. The peppers transplant very well, although this may depend on the soil—ours are very fertile, and we fertilize it regularly. One problem I have with the peppers is that they don't grow as thick-walled as I'd like. They're also not very large, even though I choose varieties with large fruit sets. I think they would grow better in a greenhouse.

Marina

For open ground, I always choose early-ripening varieties of bell peppers or hybrids. I always use two or three different varieties, as one of them always wilts. This has stood the test of time. Peppers also love light, so I always triple the beds in open areas.

To prevent seedlings from getting sick after planting and to ensure they establish quickly, I never allow them to overgrow. Seedlings should never bloom! I sow seeds in mid-March, not earlier, to prevent premature flower formation. To ensure proper growth, I use an ash infusion during the second feeding, which I apply after the bushes finish blooming.

Inga

I grow peppers both in a greenhouse and in the open ground. I choose a bright, wind-free spot for them, near the grapevines and the greenhouse. I always plant flowering seedlings, and they thrive. I grow them without picking, which may be why they grow so strong and resilient. At first, I cover them with non-woven fabric, as it retains heat well and the climate underneath is perfect for young peppers. Then, from mid-June onwards, I don't cover them at all. After planting, I always try to mulch the soil with dried, mown grass. This way, the roots are reliably protected from both the heat and cold, which in our area can happen even in mid-summer. I add mulch a couple of times during the summer. The peppers always reach biological maturity directly on the plant.