How to plant grapes in the Moscow region: planting and care specifics for this region

Hardworking gardeners grow grapes even in the Moscow region. Thanks to breeders, they have succeeded in developing early-ripening varieties and hybrids that bear fruit in temperate climates.

In the past, beautiful grapevines were planted to decorate garden plots, as the grapes didn't have time to ripen. New hybrids, when grown with proper cultivation practices, produce delicious, aromatic berries suitable for desserts and homemade wine.

Peculiarities of grape growing in the Moscow region

The Moscow region's climate differs from that of southern regions. Therefore, grape growing has a number of unique characteristics:

• for planting, early or mid-season varieties (for greenhouses) are selected, which have time to ripen in a relatively short summer period;
• varieties with high frost resistance are required;
• It is advisable to plant grapes with light-colored berries, since dark fruits require more sun to accumulate sugar and develop a stable flavor;
• Most varieties require winter cover.

Unlike in the south, grapes in the central regions of the country are less affected by dangerous pests. In the Moscow region and surrounding areas, the crop is immune to many quarantine diseases, making plant care significantly easier. The fewer chemical treatments used, the more environmentally friendly the harvest.

Grape varieties for the Moscow region

When choosing grapes, the consideration of plant protection is relative. In the south, certain varieties are grown without being removed from trellises, while in the temperate zone, they cannot survive the winter without protection.

Non-covering and frost-resistant varieties include:

• Shunya;
• Alpha;
• Jupiter;
• Valiant;
• First-Called.

The top grape varieties for the region, according to winegrowers, include:

• Anniversary of Novocherkassk;
• Beauty of the North (berries have a slightly tart taste);
• Kishmish Radiant;
• Isabel;
• Rusven;
• Agat Donskoy;
• Crystal.

Each grape on the list has its own distinct qualities. Crystal is suitable for winemaking, as is early Rusven, while the seedless Kishmish Radiant is the best choice for making raisins.

Among the early varieties, we note the Alexander, Alyoshkin, and Agat Donskoy grapes. The Queen of Vineyards, Arkadia, Krasa Dona, and Nadezhda Aksayskaya are also growing in greenhouses.

Purchasing and pricing of seedlings in the Moscow region

Various nurseries and farms in the region provide gardeners with grape seedlings. Their selection includes grapes adapted to the local climate, suitable for cultivation in open-air gardens and greenhouses. Many nurseries offer exotic grape varieties for those who enjoy experimenting.

Offers:

1. Moscow region, Yakhroma, Center of Garden Mastery.
2. Moscow region, Domodedovo district, Galchino village, Your natural garden.
3. Moscow region, Vereya, Bykovo agricultural complex.
4. LLC "Nursery "Dobry Sad", Moscow, Novaya Basmannaya St., 9.

Plants are 1-2 years old. Available: very early and early grapes, industrial, table, and universal varieties, hybrids, and plants with open and closed root systems.

The price depends on the variety and age of the plant. Typically, a two-year-old grape seedling costs from 400 rubles, while five-year-olds start at 2,000 rubles.

Planting grapes in the Moscow region

For grapes in this region, it is necessary to provide the plants with the most favorable conditions.

Planting dates

Spring planting is common, and grapes planted in September and October have also proven successful. The climate allows for any option, but proper care is essential. In spring, the soil should warm to 10 degrees Celsius, ideally allowing excess moisture to drain.

For planting use:

• one-year-old seedlings;
• lignified cuttings.

Planting grapes in the fall in the Moscow region should begin in early or mid-October, no later. Healthy, one-year-old plants with no signs of infection or defects are suitable.

Selecting a variety and preparing seedlings

Avoid planting multiple varieties at once; it's important to test how the vines perform in specific conditions. Not all early grape varieties are suitable for the Moscow region, as some have short growing seasons and cannot withstand cold temperatures.

Before planting grapes, remove any deformed roots and immerse the plants in a mixture of clay and cow manure. The mixture should be about the consistency of sour cream, using a 2:1 ratio.

Selecting landing sites

A prerequisite for a stable harvest is the proper selection of a vineyard site. The crop freezes in exposed locations, so it's best to plant it in sheltered beds, preferably on slopes. South-facing slopes are ideal, although not every estate has this type of terrain.

Grapes are fairly tolerant of various soil types, but grow best in sandy loam and clay loam. Acidity levels should be no higher than pH 6.8-7; acidic soils are unsuitable for grapes. Clay soils are poorly tolerated, so they can be improved by adding humus and compost. There should be no groundwater nearby. A drainage layer is essential; broken brick, expanded clay, and small pebbles are suitable.

Soil preparation

For spring plantings, prepare the beds and holes in the fall to allow the soil to settle. When planting grapes in the fall, dig the holes 2-3 weeks before planting, always adding a nutrient mixture.

Contribute:

• 50-70 grams of superphosphate;
• 400-500 grams of wood ash.

Standards are given per 1 square meter.

Planting seedlings

The soil in this region warms up to 40-50 cm, so the planting holes should not be deeper than this. Add compost, ash, and river sand to the holes, place the plant on the mound, and carefully spread out the roots.

A slight northward slope is desirable, as this makes it easier to bend the vines down for the winter. The distance between holes depends on the grape variety, but should always be at least one meter. Ideally, 1.2-1.5 meters.

Before planting, install trellis supports to avoid disturbing the plant roots. After planting, water the bushes thoroughly and mulch the surface.

Caring for grapes

Agricultural technology includes standard measures:

• watering;
• top dressing;
• pest and disease control;
• bush formation;
• pruning.

Work continues throughout the season, starting in early spring.

Top dressing

Grapevines are fertilized 3-4 times throughout the season. Young vines do not require fertilizer, as the seedlings are sufficiently supplied with the fertilizer they were planted with.

Regular fertilizing begins in the third year, providing plants with nitrogen in the spring and early summer, and potassium and phosphorus in the second half of summer.

The following are suitable from organics:

• mullein diluted in water (1:10);
• diluted bird droppings (1:20);
• ash infusions (500 grams per bucket of water).

Mullein and especially poultry manure are added in liquid form, with careful attention to the proportions. Otherwise, the grape roots will burn.

Suitable mineral fertilizers include superphosphate, potassium sulfate, and complex fertilizers.

Solutions of boric acid, the preparation Zavyaz, and superphosphate extract are used as foliar feeding for grapes.

In autumn, manure is not added to the crop; only potassium-phosphorus additives are used.

Watering

During the first year, seedlings are watered once a week, taking into account weather conditions and the condition of the plants. Beginning in the second year, a thorough irrigation once every two weeks will be sufficient.

Avoid overwatering and drought. During hot summers, water as needed, using sun-warmed water.

Spraying

Grapes in the Moscow region are less susceptible to diseases (mildew, oidium) than in southern regions. However, preventative spraying is mandatory.

Solutions of potassium permanganate, Bordeaux mixture, and various fungicides are used.

Approximate processing scheme:

• early spring before bud break;
• after the bushes have flowered;
• a couple of weeks before the berries ripen.

During the fruit ripening period, all chemical treatments are prohibited.

Formation of grapes

Due to the climate, experienced winegrowers do not prune young vines in the first year. The grapes must go through the winter without pruning to withstand the cold season without loss.

Bush training begins in the second season. This procedure increases yield, reduces stress on the shoots, and produces delicious berries. Early varieties are typically highly productive, producing numerous buds. These are removed to prevent overloading the shoots.

In the fall of the second year, bushes are pruned by two-thirds, depending on the plant's condition. Diseased and weak shoots are removed. Spring pruning also involves removing all frozen branches, diseased, and weak shoots.

To form a vine, the following scheme is determined:

• non-covering varieties are formed with a standard;
• Covering varieties are formed according to the fan pattern and the leaving of cordons.

In the region, the formation method according to Guillot is practiced:

• in the first season in the fall, two branches are selected and trimmed, leaving 2-3 buds on them;
• For the second season, leave the 4 strongest shoots, which will become the branches of the bush.

At the end of summer, the bushes are pruned, cutting off the tops to 4-6 buds. This technique allows the plants to better prepare for winter.

Preparing for winter

In the Moscow region, it's not worth risking or experimenting with planting heat-loving crops. Grapes, especially in the first two or three years, require complete cover.

The vines are prepared for winter by removing them from their supports and bending them toward the ground. Branches should not be laid on the ground, as this often causes mold. Wooden slats are placed at the bottom of the trench or groove, and only then are the grape branches placed.

Shelter options:

• spruce branches;
• covering the vines with soil (not very effective);
• film (first the arches are installed, then the film is laid);
• roofing felt;
• slate sheets;
• wooden boxes (used for several seasons).

In recent years, gardeners have been using special agrofibre, covering the vines with the material and weighing them down along the edges with boards or bricks. Snow provides a reliable cover on top.

Removing the cover in spring

When warmer weather arrives, remove snow from the shelter and create drainage channels for meltwater. Prevent moisture from getting inside the shelters.

The protection is gradually opened, thoroughly drying all the moisture inside in the sun. It is advisable to uncover the vine during the day and cover it at night. The protection is completely removed only when stable warmth returns.

In the Moscow region, there is a high risk of recurrent frosts, so weather forecasts are taken into account and bushes are tied to trellises only when the weather is consistently warm.

Harvesting

The grape harvest in the region occurs in late summer or the first ten days of September. Weather permitting, the bunches are left on the vines to fully ripen.

Avoid over-exposing the berries, as this will spoil the harvest and degrade their flavor. Modern hybrid varieties of early grapes are highly transportable and have excellent shelf life. Under favorable conditions, the bunches can be stored in a cellar for up to several months. However, the berries are primarily consumed fresh or processed into juices, compotes, homemade wine, and liqueurs.

Gardeners' reviews

Maria, Zaraysky District, Moscow Region

I've long wanted to grow grapes, and for almost seven years now, I've been delighted with the Crystal variety. I'm very happy with it: it's easy to grow and ripens early. The berries are oval, not particularly large, and ripen as early as August. For the winter, I first prune the vines, remove them from their supports, bend them down, and cover them with leaves. They overwinter beautifully. We make wine from the berries; they have a slightly tart flavor when fresh.

Ivan, Dmitrov

Isabella and Lydia grow well in our region, and I've been convinced of this for years now. They're hard-working varieties; I don't need to cover them with anything, and they produce a steady harvest. Two years ago, I harvested almost 50 kg of berries from two vines. Since then, it's been a little less, but we're still thrilled. I got the seedlings from a nursery, grew them for two years, and trimmed the trusses.