Russian gardeners have recently begun growing hot peppers outdoors. As recently as 50 years ago, homemakers tried growing this exotic vegetable as a houseplant on their windowsills. The fruits were small and tasteless, and were sometimes used as a seasoning in culinary dishes. Today, this "guest" native to America can be found in many gardens. Vegetable growers have become intrigued by the varietal characteristics of this particular plant. They want to know how to properly plant and grow hot peppers. We'll explore this topic with experienced gardeners (see video).
Hot pepper: description
The ancestors of modern Mexicans, the Aztecs, called this plant "chili" (chili - red), they ate the fruits raw or dried over a fire.
A tropical subshrub up to 60 cm tall – a spice that has a pungent taste:
- leaves - elliptical;
- flowers - covered with white, grayish or purple spots;
- The fruits are berries in the form of a ball or trunk, colored red, yellow or dark olive.
The phenolic compound capsaicin, found in the seeds and skin of the fruit, gives pepper its spicy and pungent taste; the degree of spiciness depends on its quantity.
Health benefits of hot peppers
Only the fruits of the red pepper (chili) are used medicinally, and tinctures, decoctions, and ointments are prepared. They contain vitamins A, C, and B, potassium, magnesium, iron, essential oils, and fatty acids. They are used for the following conditions:
- to increase appetite and improve the functioning of the digestive system (there are exceptions for patients with gastritis and high acidity of the gastrointestinal tract);
- to improve the condition of sore joints and muscles, pepper plasters are applied to the sore area;
- to relieve shock, heart attacks, fainting;
- Infusions and solutions with pepper are used in the preparation of foot baths for reduced blood circulation;
- to fight cancer cells.
Harmful effects of hot peppers and contraindications
People with gastrointestinal diseases should consume this product in moderation or avoid it altogether to avoid complicating the condition and causing further harm. Other organs at risk from excessive hot pepper consumption include:
- pancreas;
- allergy to the product;
- cardiovascular system;
- organs of the gastrointestinal tract (GIT).
Types and varieties of hot peppers
Depending on the species, hot peppers can be grown in greenhouses, open beds, and indoors. There are two main varieties within these groups: ornamental peppers and plants with edible fruits.
What criteria should I use to select seeds for seedlings?
Main characteristics:
- region and growing methods (in open or closed ground, at home, in a greenhouse);
- productivity;
- ripening periods (early, middle, late);
- disease resistance;
- taste (degree of spiciness).
Purposes of using fruits:
- preparing seasoning;
- canning, freezing, drying;
- consumption fresh.
Taste qualities (spiciness of pods):
- slight bitterness;
- semi-sharp;
- strong sharpness;
- hot fruits.
WITH choosing seeds of a variety suitable for gardeners The cultivation of hot peppers in open ground begins.
The best varieties for open beds
Early peppers begin to bear fruit 95-110 days after sowing. They are eaten fresh, dried, and canned.
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A very productive variety. The small pods begin to ripen 95 days after sowing. They gradually turn a bright red color. The flesh becomes juicy with a piquant flavor. The fruits are not very pungent and can be stored fresh for up to 20 days. They are then dried or processed into spices.
Danube
This tall shrub (over 1 meter) requires support. It thrives in arid climates, produces a bountiful harvest of peppers, and is resistant to many diseases. The fruits are elongated and red, pinkish, or green. The first pods are harvested as early as 102 days after planting.
Bully
The small, trapezoid-shaped peppers resemble sweet peppers, but their flavor is distinctly sweeter and more piquant. The bushes are productive, with a single plant yielding an average of 5-7 kg of pods. The growing season is early, lasting 110 days.
Early variety seedlings are planted outdoors in early May. During the initial adaptation and growth stages, arches are installed and the seedlings are covered with PVC film.
Mid-season peppers have a longer growing season – from 112 to 120 days.
Cayenne bitters
This pepper variety is renowned worldwide for its intense heat. The juicy pods are red and grow up to 15 cm in length. The plants are genetically resistant to many diseases. They are resilient to spring frosts, do not shed their buds, and continue to grow, producing a substantial harvest within 112 days—at the end of June.
Ukrainian
To plant this plant, choose a sunny spot in the garden. It's sensitive to low light and prefers warm sunlight. Seedlings thrive in areas free from drafts and cold rain. The shrub has a prolonged growing season, with fruiting beginning after 120 days and continuing until early September. The yield per square meter is at least 1.8 kg.
Late-season pepper varieties begin bearing fruit when seedlings are 122 to 150 days old. Seeds are sown in late February, and two- to three-month-old seedlings are transplanted to open beds in May.
You may be interested in:Astrakhan 147
One of the most popular late-ripening varieties of hot pepper in Russia, Ukraine, Moldova, and Belarus. This low-growing bush produces extremely pungent fruits that are resistant to sudden cold snaps and many fungal and viral diseases. The ripening period is approximately 122 days. In open ground, it is grown from seedlings to ensure the pods have time to fully ripen before the end of the summer season.
Aurora 81
This subshrub, up to 1 meter tall, begins to bear fruit after 145 days of vegetation. The fruits are distinctively shaped like a curved elephant trunk and are red in color. Before fully ripening, the green pods turn purple-brown, then red. The peppers have a mildly spicy flavor, and the flesh is juicy with a fragrant, piquant note. The fruits keep fresh for a long time and can be dried and canned.
Vizier
At the beginning of the growing season, this pepper plant grows slowly, taking at least 150 days to reach full maturity. Supports or trellises are required to form the plant. The peppers differ from their "relatives" by their unusual shape. Breeders have nicknamed it "the vizier's turban." The pods are red, the flesh is juicy and slightly bitter. These peppers are often used to decorate holiday tables due to their floral and appetizing appearance.
Growing seedlings
Not every gardener can grow their own hot peppers from seed, so many buy ready-made hot pepper seedlings at markets and from private sellers. However, there's a risk of getting something you don't quite expect. At an early age, young plants can't be distinguished by varietal characteristics; you have to rely on the seller's word for it. It's best to avoid such purchases. It's entirely possible to do this difficult task yourself.
Preparing the substrate
Soil for growing seedlings can be purchased at specialty stores. It must meet the following requirements:
- be loose, not stick together, and allow air and moisture to pass through well;
- the composition should include organic components: compost, peat, ash;
- the substrate must be enriched with micro and macro elements: nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, iron;
- Soil acidity is allowed at a level of 5-7 units (pH).
The soil must be disinfected, “fried,” or treated with chemicals to destroy fungal spores, larvae, and pest eggs.
Experienced gardeners prepare a similar mixture at home. They use:
- garden soil - 10 kg;
- compost - 1 kg;
- peat - 1 kg;
- phosphorus flour - 0.2 kg;
- perlite, sphagnum, vermiculite, sawdust - 1 kg;
- ash - 1 glass.
All ingredients are thoroughly mixed. The mixture is prepared in the fall. Until the time of use, it is hermetically sealed in plastic bags and stored in a cellar or basement. Moisture should not penetrate the packaging to prevent chemical reactions of the beneficial substances, meaning they cannot be released into the air.
Preparing the seeds
The next step in growing pepper seedlings is seed preparation. To do this, you'll need:
- Check their quality. Place the seeds in a strong salt solution (50 g per 500 ml of water) for 30 minutes. Full-weight, good-quality seeds will settle to the bottom. Empty shells will float. Carefully pour off the water containing these "seeds." Strain the residue containing good seeds through cheesecloth and rinse thoroughly under running water.
- Disinfect the seeds. Soak the seeds in a solution of calcium permanganate, furatsilin, hydrogen peroxide, or baking soda for 20-40 minutes. Finish by rinsing the seeds.
- Treat with a growth stimulant. Soak them a third time in a nitrophoska solution (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water) to stimulate growth. Leave for 24 hours. Dry on a napkin, wrap in a dry cloth, and place the cloth in a plastic bag.
- Harden off. Place the seed bags in the lower compartment of the refrigerator for 5-7 days, then in a warm place for 24 hours, then back in the refrigerator for 2-3 days.
- Germinate. Warm the hardened seeds for several hours in warm water and place them on a napkin. Wrap them in a plastic bag and place them in a warm, dark place. After 7-10 days, the embryos will hatch, and it's time to sow them in containers.
Preparation takes 8-12 days. This must be done before planting time.
We determine the time
Approximate dates for sowing seeds can be determined based on calculated data.
Example:
- the Astrakhan variety with a vegetation period of 120 days was selected;
- the desired date for receiving the first peppers is July 20;
- sowing period: 20.07 – 120 days = end of March.
It's difficult to pinpoint the exact time, so gardeners in central Russia plant peppers from late February to early April.
We sow hot peppers in the usual way
Containers, boxes, or individual pots should be cleaned, washed with antiseptic solutions, and dried. They should be deep enough to allow the plant's root system to develop freely.
- Drainage layer: sterilize expanded clay chips, broken brick or coarse sand and place them on the bottom of the container to a height of up to 2 cm.
- Sprinkle the prepared substrate on top in a layer 5-8 cm thick.
- We make furrows or holes in the ground 2x2 cm and up to 1.5 cm deep, and place the seeds.
- We carefully and evenly fill the surface with the soil mixture.
- We water the plantings with warm filtered water.
- We cover the containers tightly with polyethylene and place them in a warm (18-22°) and slightly shaded place.
After about 1-2 weeks, remove the cover and place the containers in well-lit areas.
We recommend sowing in sawdust
If gardeners have problems preparing or purchasing soil substrate, they can use steamed, aged sawdust:
- the material should be stored for 6-12 months;
- Place the sawdust in water, bring to a boil, remove from heat and cover with a lid;
- we wait until they swell and cool down a little;
- pour still hot sawdust into containers (layer thickness - 7-10 cm);
- further steps are identical to planting in soil substrate.
We are picking out the seedlings
Experienced gardeners try to avoid this procedure, as peppers don't adapt well to new locations. They plant the seeds in larger containers, spaced 10-15 cm apart, or in individual cups of the same size.
If transplanting is unavoidable, the seedlings are "rolled over," meaning they are carried with a lump of soil. The plants should be well watered beforehand to prevent soil from collapsing.
We create conditions for the development and growth of seedlings
Hot pepper seedlings will grow strong and healthy if you create favorable conditions for the plant:
| Indicators | Recommendations |
| Air temperature | + 23-27 °C |
| Humidity | Air 70-75%, soil 70-85% |
| Watering mode | Water the seedlings with melted water at room temperature. The frequency of watering depends on how quickly the soil dries out; it should be moist and not allowed to dry out to a depth of more than 1-2 cm. |
| Top dressing | Before planting, plants are fertilized at least three times with complex mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. The first fertilization is performed after the first shoots emerge, and subsequent fertilizations are administered once every 2-3 weeks. |
| Hardening | A month before planting the seedlings in the ground, harden them off. Lower the air temperature by 3-5°C for 30 minutes, then increase the time. |
| Disease prevention | Before planting seedlings aged 2-3 months in open ground, I treat them with the following preparations: Fitosporin M, Rassada, Proton |
We transplant to open beds
The final step in growing hot pepper seedlings is transplanting them into soil protected by polyethylene or non-woven material. The seedlings should be planted in prepared soil, which is dug over two weeks, fertilized, formed into beds, marked out, and covered with plastic film to keep the soil warm.
The planting principle is simple: the taller the bushes grow and the wider their branches, the more space you need to leave between plants. These parameters are indicated on the seed packaging. Roughly speaking, these are:
- for low-growing varieties - 25-30 cm between bushes in a row, 70-90 cm between rows;
- for tall peppers - 45-60 cm and 110-140 cm, respectively.
Propagation by cuttings
High-yielding varieties of hot peppers are propagated by cuttings. Young shoots 8-10 cm long with 2-3 leaves are cut from the plant. They are soaked in a Zircon solution for 24 hours and placed in pots with rooting medium. They are then cared for as normal seedlings and transplanted into open ground.
Dwarf hybrids, which retain their varietal characteristics when propagated this way, are suitable for this method. Even if the seedlings are ready for transplanting but weather conditions prevent it, the plant can grow in a pot until the appropriate time arrives.
Caring for seedlings
Growing hot chili peppers outdoors can be a challenging task for gardeners. However, caring for these plants is fun and rewarding. The result is a rewarding experience and a fragrant, spicy seasoning.
We water
Watering time is evening. Water the plants every other day at a rate of 1 liter of water (tall plants – 2 liters) per plant. During persistent heat, water the same amount every day. Once the peppers begin to bear fruit, reduce the frequency of watering to 0.5 and 1.0 liters, respectively.
We mulch the damp soil with compost so that moisture does not evaporate for a longer time and reaches the plant roots.
We fertilize and feed
Apply fertilizer for the first time after the adaptation period is complete, which is usually after 2-3 weeks. Apply complex mineral mixtures according to the instructions on the packaging. They should contain potassium, phosphorus, and nitrogen (in smaller doses).
We apply fertilizer 3-4 times per season:
- before flowering - 1 time;
- during the formation of ovaries - 1 time, add mixtures containing copper, iron, magnesium and selenium;
- during the period of active fruiting - 2 times.
Stop all fertilizing two weeks before the end of harvest. At this time, the plant's growth and development are complete, and fertilizer is no longer needed.
We fight diseases and pests
Prevention is the most effective way to combat diseases and pests. To protect plants, treat them with specialized products at least two to three times per season or use traditional remedies. Spray gardens monthly to protect against seasonal pests and diseases.
- For diseases such as black leg, gray rot, late blight, fusarium, powdery mildew, and tobacco mosaic, chemical preparations such as Fitosporin and folk remedies such as Trichopol are used.
- To combat pests such as spider mites, wireworms, whiteflies, slugs, Colorado potato beetles, and aphids, treat plants with Decis, Fitoverm, Aktara, or Tanrek. Folk remedies include malathion, herbal solutions, and strong-smelling infusions.
Harvesting and storing the harvest
We determine the degree of ripeness of hot pepper pods:
- the fruits acquire a rich, bright (red, yellow, orange) color;
- the leaves gradually turn yellow and dry out;
- Ripe fruits slightly burn the skin on the palm of the hand.
We taste the pepper again; the spicier it is, the longer it will keep. All the signs are clear—it's time to harvest.
It is recommended to store hot pepper pods fresh, dried, ground, frozen, or canned; every housewife will have her own recipe.
Summing up (reviews)
Elena Vasina, 44 years old, Ryazan
My family loves spicy food, so I learned to grow hot peppers in the garden. I plant a small amount, but we eat them year-round. I always add a small pod to my pickle jars; vinegar is not needed, and the jars don't explode.
Egor Stepanov, 61 years old, Kostroma
Hot peppers are incredibly healthy. I not only eat them, but also make ointments to warm up my joints. I always have fresh peppers on hand, growing them in my garden and at home. I recently mastered propagation by cuttings, and now I take my favorite varieties from cuttings in the fall and propagate them throughout the winter.
Marina Lvova, 30 years old, Tula
I'm new to gardening, but my mother always grew peppers in our apartment. She taught me how to do it, too. Now I grow hot peppers in my garden beds, and the yield is always excellent, enough to last the whole year.
Red peppers (chili peppers) aren't among the most common vegetables in Russian gardens. However, those who enjoy spicy food don't overlook them. This plant not only offers health benefits, but also beautifies garden plots with its lush greenery and vibrant fruits.

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