Timely and high-quality preparation of the grapevine for the cold season determines not only its ability to produce next year's harvest, but also the good health of the vine itself. Caring for grapes in the fall, pruning for winter, soil cultivation and mulching, fertilization Protecting shoots and protecting them ensures plant survival. This is especially important in Russia's harsh climate.
Secrets of pruning
Scientists believe that the vine can live for a thousand yearsFor example, before the campaign against viticulture in the Don region in the 1980s, some indigenous varieties reached eight hundred years of age. The oldest known vineyard to date grows in Slovenia and was planted in 1548. The oldest vineyard still in operation is in Austria and was established in 1847. One of the secrets to such longevity is careful care of the grapes in the fall and spring.
For the gardener we need to get it done before winter There are many things to do. One of the most important and difficult is pruning the grapes. This is done after the first autumn frosts, when the leaves have fallen. The exact time is determined by touch. Usually, the top of the vine is damp and very cold. Feeling it toward the base, you need to find the area where the dry, warm part begins. Carefully trim it with pruning shears.
You may be interested in:If a damp (dead) vine is left, it will become moldy as spring temperatures rise. The fungal infection can spread to the entire shoot, which will then die. The living, woody part of the vine (warm and dry) will continue to grow the following year. Its suitability can be tested by bending it: the branch should clearly crunch. Beginning gardeners should pay attention to the color of the stem's core: prune until it turns from white to green.
Age difference
During the first three years of a grapevine's life, its basic shape is established, and it is pruned differently each fall. This is a general rule, regardless of variety or growing location. Don't wait for the bush to grow—this approach will not enhance its beauty or yield. From the young bush's growth, select two of the strongest shoots to create branches, and prune the rest. One will become a replacement shoot, and the other will become a fruiting vine. Leave four buds (eyes) on the branches. In the spring, remove the two lower buds.
A one-year-old vine typically grows to 1 m, and in favorable conditions, up to 1.5-2 m. It typically develops woody growth at 6-8 buds. If a shoot is completely green and has to be cut back to ground level, this doesn't mean the vine is dead. The following year, the buds located underground will begin to grow. However, they won't awaken until the soil warms up. In northern regions, this can be June or even July.
You may be interested in:On two-year-old vines, two shoots should also be left, which will produce a good bush next year with replacement branches, fruiting vines, and already formed branches. And if last year four buds were left on the latter, this year six should be retained (the two lower ones are removed in the spring). Excess shoots are pruned.
A three-year-old bush already has two full-fledged branches, on each of which a replacement branch and the main vine are formed.
Disadvantages of the substitution method
A mature vine can grow up to 15 meters in length and climb a tall structure or tree. In this case, using the described method becomes difficult. Old bushes are rejuvenated by pruning at the base, where the strongest young shoot emerges from the branch. A new vine can be left growing from the ground. In 3-4 years, it will replace the old branch.
Fall pruning of grapes in the Moscow region using the replacement method should only be used for varieties that require protection, as not all buds will have time to fully form during a cold summer and will be unviable the following year. For example, of the several buds left on the vine, only two survived, one of which was too weak and was broken by the wind. In this case, the vine itself and the entire branch on which it grew will have to be completely removed.
Covering for the winter
All cultivated grape varieties, no matter how resilient, must be covered during the first three years of their life. The same applies to the most valuable and beloved vines, whose loss is undesirable. To avoid risk, it's best to remove the vines from the trellis. Covered with snow, they usually survive well, but shoots above the snow line freeze. There are two basic rules to remember:
- you can't do it in autumn cover the vineyard too early, when it's still warm;
- in spring it’s too late to open when it’s already warm.
With the onset of cold weather, it's necessary to wait for weather with light night frosts, as the plants need to harden off. It's best to remove the cover in the spring when the average daily spring temperature approaches freezing. To easily remove the grapes from the trellis and lay them on the ground, it's best to plant the seedlings at a slight angle rather than vertically. Train the bushes into a low, semi-fan shape.
Covering methods may vary, depending on the climate of a particular region.The most popular among gardeners are:
- covering with earth;
- dry shelter.
Preparing for severe cold
The simplest method of covering is burying the vines. It is used on young, one- or two-year-old vineyards and is more reliable in the northern and central regions. The technology is simple:
- straw (preferably last year's), hay, and fallen leaves are poured into the bottom of a 15-20 cm deep ditch in a layer of 5-7 cm;
- the vine is laid;
- another layer of the same materials;
- sprinkled with earth (15-20 cm).
This method has its drawbacks. Under certain conditions, the branch may rot, leading to the development of rot pockets. Mole crickets and other insects like to overwinter in such areas.
Simple and convenient
Dry shelter is created using film, nylon bags, or agrofibre. In this case, there's no need to dig small trenches; the vines are laid directly on the prepared soil beneath the bushes and layered with leaves, straw, or tops in a 25-30 cm layer. The main material is secured on top. Wooden or iron staples and stones are used for securing.
You can also do without using organic materials: bend the vines down, lay synthetic padding (used for sewing clothes) on top, then cover with plastic film, and secure. This is very quick and convenient. When the grapes are opened in the spring, the synthetic padding is wet and the vines are dry. The material, like a sponge, absorbs excess moisture. The plants beneath it won't rot or freeze. Furthermore, it will last for years, as it won't rot or deteriorate in the sun.
When choosing, consider the microclimate of the site itself and the fact that bushes of the same variety, even in the same region, can behave differently. It's a good idea to cover at least one shoot of perennial and time-tested bushes for the winter. This may well help preserve the vine, as winters vary, and the plant doesn't always enter this period in perfect condition.
Fertilizing the vines
Autumn grape care includes fertilization. Even the richest soil eventually becomes depleted and cannot provide the plant with the necessary nutrients. Like any crop, vines require a certain set of elements at different stages of the growing season for good health and productivity. To detect any deficiencies in the soil, it's best to conduct a chemical analysis and determine its acidity. Based on the results, adjustments can be made to the soil's properties.
The modern chemical industry offers a wide variety of fertilizers and additives. You can choose the right one based on your needs and budget. For example, phosphorus-potassium mixtures are most suitable for preparing your garden for the upcoming season.
Their composition enriches the soil and saturates it with substances necessary for strengthening the plant before winter, as well as for the full development and fruiting of the grapes in the coming season. They are placed directly into the soil at a shallow depth, typically at the level of the small roots.
But many gardeners prefer natural fertilizers based on organic farming principles. While preparing these fertilizers requires some effort, they offer undeniable benefits. These include:
- manure;
- compost;
- silt;
- bird droppings;
- peat;
- sawdust and tree bark.
Manure is typically used for autumn fertilizing of grapes. Horse manure is considered the best. It's important to remember that it shouldn't be used in its pure form. The manure must be rotted to a humus state. To prevent the fertilizer from being lost with rain and meltwater, it is placed in a shallow trench dug around the vine or along the trellis. This fertilizing, done once every three years, will improve the soil structure and enrich it with nutrients.
Caring for grapes in the fall and preparing them for winter is essential for maintaining healthy vines during the cold season. Moreover, this work will ensure the health of the vineyard and a bountiful, high-quality harvest next season.
General cleaning of the vineyard: a list of mandatory activities
When to harvest grapes for wine
Can you eat grapes with seeds? Health benefits and risks
Grape seed oil - properties and uses, benefits and contraindications