Rules for growing columnar peach: planting and care

Peach

The columnar peach is a fruit tree that can be used both for decoration and for fruit production. It doesn't require much space, making it suitable for small plots. Before purchasing a seedling and growing a columnar peach, carefully study the tree's growing requirements, learn about its care requirements, and learn how to prune the tree properly. Planting and growing a columnar peach in the fall and spring is easy, even for beginners.

General characteristics and varieties

This relatively new variety of fruit tree is considered a dwarf tree, reaching a height of no more than 2-2.5 m and a width of 70-90 cm. The crown resembles a cylinder or column, hence the name "peach." It looks great in any garden setting. Peach trees are especially beautiful during flowering and ripening. The foliage is a rich, dark green. The leaves are oval in shape with pointed tips. The inflorescences are small and pink. Many columnar peach varieties are noted for their good drought and frost resistance.

A distinctive feature of this cultivar is that the branches grow directly from the main stem; there are no offshoots on the lateral shoots. Therefore, the fruits are located close to the trunk. Each fruit weighs up to 250 grams. Depending on the variety and care, a single plant can yield 5-7 kg of ripe peaches. The following varieties are popular in our country:

Honey. The plant reaches 1.5-1.8 m in height. Ripe peaches are yellow with a pink tint, slightly pubescent, and sweet. They ripen by mid-July.
Golden Triumph. A low-growing tree, it grows no more than 1.3-1.5 m in height. It is a winter-hardy variety and resistant to diseases. Ripe fruits are red, with juicy flesh and a distinctive aroma. One plant can produce up to 10 kg of fruit per season.
Steinberg. This cultivar grows well even in shade and drought conditions. The tree reaches 2 m in height. The fruits are light orange, sweet, and juicy, weighing 100-150 grams.
Totem. This variety is characterized by large fruits (250-280 g) and a tall growth habit (1.8-2 m). Ripe peaches are rounded, slightly flattened, and yellow-orange. The fruit stores well in cool conditions and tolerates long transportation.
Yubiley Stolitsy (Yubiley Stolitsy). An early-ripening variety, the harvest can be picked as early as early July. It is low-growing (1.3-1.4 m) and resistant to cold and fungal infections. The fruits are round, yellow inside and out, weighing 120-200 grams each.

Varieties such as Kulon, Souvenir, and Ring are also gaining popularity. All are characterized by their small size and vigorous fruiting.

Note!

Low-growing varieties can be grown in tubs or large flower pots.

Columnar peach: planting and initial care

To achieve the desired result, it's important to choose the right planting material and follow the planting process. It's best to purchase a one-year-old plant. When purchasing, pay attention to the appearance and condition of the root ball. The planting material should look healthy and strong, without dry or rotten roots. The price of a seedling is quite high, so it would be a shame to purchase a sick, non-viable tree.

Time

The planting time for columnar peaches depends on the local climate. In warmer climates, it's recommended to plant dwarf peach trees in the fall, while in colder climates, it's recommended to plant them in early spring. Young trees need time to establish themselves in their new location, root well, and adapt. After this time, they'll tolerate freezing temperatures more easily.

Place

The planting site chosen determines the subsequent growth of the seedling. The area should be well-lit (partial shade is acceptable) and free from drafts. Columnar peach seedlings do not thrive in dark, waterlogged areas. Furthermore, the risk of fungal infections increases, and root rot is possible.

Once a site has been selected, preparatory work must be carried out. This should be done well in advance. For fall planting, this should be done 30 days before planting, and for spring planting, this should be done in the fall. Remove any grass from the area, then dig the soil, adding humus or rotted cow manure as you go.

Planting diagram

The size of the planting hole is determined by the size of the root ball. Typically, a hole 60-70 cm deep and 50-60 cm in diameter is sufficient. Planting procedure:

To prevent water stagnation, place a 10-12 cm layer of drainage material at the bottom of the hole. Crushed stone, broken brick, coastal pebbles, etc. can be used for this purpose.
Cover the drainage with a layer of black soil approximately 10 cm thick.
Place a stake into the hole for tying.
Spread the seedling's roots and plant it vertically in the hole. Cover with soil, compact it lightly, and cover with more soil. Repeat until the hole is completely filled.
Tie the seedling to the support.
Water with warm water (10-15 liters per seedling).

After planting, the soil above the root system can be mulched with sawdust, old leaves, or pine needles. This will protect the seedling from drying out, cold, heat, and wind, and will also help retain nutrients in the soil.

Important!

When filling with soil, you need to ensure that the plant's collar remains above the surface, otherwise the tree may die.

Healthy seedlings easily establish themselves in a new location. All they need to do is provide them with proper care.

Aftercare Rules

Caring for columnar peach trees is simple. Basic care includes fertilizing, weeding, watering, and disease prevention.

Top dressing

Timely fertilization will help the plant survive the colder months and produce abundant fruit in the warmer months. It's best to use natural fertilizers made from natural ingredients rather than chemical ones.

In early spring, before bud break, the plant should be treated once with urea. To prepare a solution, mix 800 grams of the solution in ten liters of warm water. During flowering, fruit set, and ripening, spray the tree weekly with a decoction of burdock leaves, lemon balm, and onion peels. Use 100 grams of each ingredient per five liters of water. Add the ingredients, bring to a boil, reduce heat, and let simmer for 20-35 minutes. Cool, strain, add 10 grams of ground red pepper and 100 ml of liquid laundry soap, and stir. Spray in the evening or morning. The decoction will not only nourish the plant but also prevent rot and protect against insects.

In the fall, the tree can be fertilized with bird droppings or rotted cow manure. To do this, dig up the soil around the plant, adding fertilizer as you dig.

Watering

The soil only needs to be moistened during the first 1-2 years after planting, as it dries out. After that, natural rainfall will be sufficient for watering. Watering should only be required during particularly dry months (once every 14 days). One tree will require 10-15 liters of warm water. After watering, the soil around the peach tree should be loosened to ensure good aeration and prevent oxygen deprivation in the root system.

Weeding

Peach trees require careful weeding. Even if each planting is mulched, weeding between rows and loosening the soil is still necessary. This is because weeds often harbor and breed parasitic insects, which can subsequently attack the tree. Furthermore, weeds draw nutrients from the soil, depleting it. As a result, the peach tree may suffer from a deficiency of essential elements, become diseased, and develop poorly.

Note!

During the first year of planting, it is recommended to remove all blossoms from the tree. This will help the plant gain strength for successful fruiting in the future.

In cold regions, peaches should be insulated for the winter. After the leaves fall, carefully wrap the peach tree in greenhouse film or other non-woven material. The ground can be covered with spruce branches, straw, etc.

Why do you need pruning and what tools are needed?

One of the advantages of the columnar peach is that its crown doesn't require gradual shaping. Regular pruning is sufficient. The yield and appearance of the tree depend on proper and timely pruning.

To perform high-quality pruning, you should purchase the following tools:

pruning shears;
wood saw;
garden knife;
whitewash brush.

To minimize damage to the tree, it's important to keep your tools sharp. The sharper the knife or pruning shears, the easier the work, as branches won't break, but will be cut evenly and neatly.

Varieties

Pruning a columnar peach tree can be done for various purposes. For example, maintenance pruning involves removing dead, damaged, or broken branches. Restorative pruning is performed after frost damage, and detailed pruning is used to thin out branches. Generally, pruning is divided into the following types:

Formative pruning. The main goal of this procedure is to stimulate the growth and development of the peach tree. After pruning, young branches become stronger, which positively impacts the yield and flavor of the fruit. Formative pruning should begin when the plant is two years old. This involves shortening branches, starting from the top, by approximately 15 cm.
Restorative pruning. This is only performed if the tree has been damaged by disease or frost. It is performed in the fall or spring. The damaged shoot must be completely pruned, and the cut area must be whitewashed with garden whitewash.
Rejuvenation. Old branches are removed to rejuvenate the tree and prolong fruiting. All shoots older than five years should be pruned.
Regulatory pruning. This can be done at any time of year (except winter) to maintain good fruiting and control fruit production. Young shoots that have reached 50 cm or become out of shape should be pruned.

Before pruning, the tool should not only be sharpened but also disinfected. Regular rubbing alcohol can be used for this.

Important!

Cut branches affected by fungus or other diseases must be burned to prevent the spread of the disease.

Pruning according to the seasons

Each type of pruning has its own time limit. Failure to do so can negatively impact vegetation and fruiting. In some cases, shoots are cut off completely; in others, only partially.

Spring. You can begin in late February and continue throughout the spring. During this time, you should shorten the branches by approximately one-third of the shoot's total annual growth. At the same time, ensure that branches 2-3 years old are preserved as much as possible, as these are the ones that produce the best fruit.
Summer. During this period, you should prune away dead, irregularly growing, and bloom-dropping branches. Pruning can be carried out throughout June and early July.
Autumn is the best time for pruning in warmer regions, as it gives the tree a long period to recover before bearing fruit again. The process should begin after the fruit harvest, in mid-September, and be completed by the end of October. In areas with cold winters, autumn pruning is not recommended.
Winter. Pruning should not be done during this time. This can injure the plant and cause its death. However, winter pruning can be defined as a procedure that in southern regions sometimes begins in mid-February.

If the bark integrity is compromised after manipulation, treat the trunk with a solution of crystalline manganese. To do this, dissolve a few grains in 0.5 liters of warm water; the color should be dark pink.

By year

When pruning, consider the plant's age. For young plants, pruning should stimulate growth and development, for mature plants, it should promote fruiting, and for older plants, it should prevent overcrowding. After planting, you can perform the first pruning, shortening all shoots by one-third. Then proceed as follows:

First year. First, measure the branch growth. If it's weak, with shoots growing less than 30 cm, then pruning is not necessary. If growth is good, you can shorten one-third of the shoots.
Second year. Similar to the first year.
Third year. This is the fruiting period, so pruning is essential. You can thin out the overgrown crown and prune away damaged, weak, or frozen branches. Young shoots should be shortened by a third.

Subsequent pruning depends on the tree's age and fruiting activity. While the plant is young, annual pruning can be carried out similarly to the third year. An older peach tree should be rejuvenated once or twice a year. Columnar peach trees don't require crown shaping, but if desired, the upper branches of a mature tree can be pruned to create a desired shape. Avoid allowing lateral shoots to grow, as this will reduce fruiting. These shoots can be removed as soon as they begin to develop by simply pinching them out.

How to care for your tree after pruning and possible mistakes

After pruning, the tree requires special care. This will help it recover quickly from the pruning and prevent disease and pest infestations. Basic care guidelines:

Small wounds left after pruning should be sprinkled with crushed charcoal and treated with garden pitch.
Treat severe damage with boric acid.
Immediately after the procedure, water the peach generously.

If you don't prune, the fruits will be small and not sweet. On the other hand, too frequent pruning or excessive pruning will slow down the formation of inflorescences and fruits.