Grafting grapes: how to graft correctly, grafting timing

Properly performed grape grafting, taking into account the berry variety, will help increase yield and resistance to external negative factors. This agronomic procedure can help restore or rejuvenate a damaged bush. Breeders use grafting to produce several varieties of sweet berries on a single bush. Grafting is necessary when a gardener wants to replace the variety they were previously growing. There's no need to plant new seedlings; grafting can solve the problem.

Why does a plant need grafting?

It has been scientifically proven that grafted plants are resistant to pests and diseases. Even vigorous grape varieties acquire a compact form. Grafting is essential for vineyards to increase yields. Functionally, a properly performed agronomic procedure ensures the growth of the vine in the lower part of the graft. The remaining part of the vine, located above, develops into a new variety.

The correct order of actions

Beginning gardeners shouldn't jump straight into grafting. It's best to start with a practice run. For this, take a few unwanted branches. Once the gardener has achieved a perfectly straight cut, they can move on to spring or summer grafting. Before beginning the process, botanists recommend removing crooked, thin, and damaged cuttings. The chances of them taking root are minimal.

How to prepare cuttings

https://youtu.be/jfcq9lRvdoQ

The agrotechnical procedure is carried out without regard to the time factor. Only the ripening speed of the selected variety is taken into account. Regardless of the timing of the agrotechnical procedure, it is necessary prepare cuttings correctly:

• they are taken only from healthy bushes;
• The cuttings must be cut with a sharp knife;
• the size of the cutting, which must have 3 buds, is: 9-12 cm;
• shoots and leaves are removed from the cutting.

The bottom cut of the cutting is made at an angle, and the top cut is straight. This way, the gardener won't confuse which is up and which is down. Immediately after cutting, the cuttings are dipped in a container of copper sulfate (3%). The next step is to lay them out on a piece of cloth to dry. Grafting with cuttings will be successful if they are wrapped in a damp cloth after drying. Alternatively, plastic wrap can be used. The finished branches are placed in a cellar or refrigerator, where they are stored at a temperature no higher than +5°C.

Autumn grafting of grapes

The timing is chosen so that the outside temperature does not drop below 15 degrees Celsius. An old, non-fruiting vine is used for this procedure. To ensure successful fall grafting, the cuttings are first placed in a container with a growth stimulant for 72 hours. Once the buds begin to swell, they can be removed from the growth stimulant. The next step is to carefully cut off the top of the vine trunk, after which the cut is cleaned with a disinfected knife. The rest of the procedure is as follows:

• insert a screwdriver into the middle part of the stem;
• drive it in to a depth of about 3 cm using milk;
• sharpen the scion on one side until it has a distinct cone shape;
• maximum cutting length: 2.5-3 cm;
• insert the cutting into the split with the sharp end;
• if the size of the split allows, then 2 cuttings are grafted onto the old bush;
• the crack needs to be sealed using a mixture of grapevine and slightly dampened toilet paper;
• The point where the graft was made is tied several times with cotton cloth or twine.

To ensure that the health of the grafted cuttings does not deteriorate, the cloth wrapped around the cut site is generously coated with garden pitch.

Spring agrotechnical manipulation

To ensure smooth spring grape grafting, it should be done after the buds have swollen. Its success depends on the gardener's ability to choose the right time. In the middle zone Cultivation work begins in April, as soon as the outside temperature reaches a stable 15 degrees Celsius. Spring grafting will be successful only if this factor is met. The weather should be warm, but not too hot, otherwise the procedure is pointless. Gardeners have two grafting methods at their disposal: budding and underground grafting. The first method is suitable for moderate climates and mid-season varieties, while the second is suitable for regions with more capricious weather.

In regions with a temperate climate, they vaccinate grapes in springA technique for creating a split in the underground trunk is chosen. Scion cuttings are removed 72 hours before grafting. They are prepared in the fall using the technique described above. Their tips are carefully sharpened and then placed in a container filled with Epin. The trunk, which will later become the rootstock, is dug to a depth of about 20 cm. The base is carefully cleared of bark. The roots are trimmed so that they are visible.

Once the cleft is ready, the scion is inserted into it. The next step is to seal the graft site with twine. The finishing touch is to seal the treated area with clay. A practical tip for grafting grapes is to carefully backfill the hole, then mound the part of the scion above ground with sand.

Summer grafting of grapes

The recommended time for grafting is July to early August. Botanists recommend a combined agricultural technique. First, make a 3-4 cm deep split in the rootstock. Then insert the woody scion into this split. The subsequent procedure is as follows:

• Before planting the prepared cuttings, their cuts are renewed;
• the place of the cut is just below the bud;
• both ends of the cutting are given a wedge shape;
• wedge size: 3 cm;
• only those blanks that have buds are used as scions;
• It is prohibited to vaccinate during hot weather;
• the optimal time for vaccination is evening or morning;
• only healthy vines are taken to perform the manipulation;
• about 1/3 of the vine is cut off;
• exactly in the middle, make a cut of about 3 cm, into which the cutting is inserted;
• The eyes of the rootstock and scion should not look in the same direction.

The grafting site is carefully wrapped with a slightly damp cloth. The final step is to cover the treatment site with a plastic bag.

Winter agrotechnical manipulation

Unlike the summer grafting method, two-year-old plants are used in winter. The method for preparing cuttings is the same as described above. Once the bush has lost all its leaves, it is pruned to 10 cm. The above-ground portion is disinfected using a 2-3% potassium permanganate solution. The rest of the procedure is as follows:

• the rootstock is placed in a container with sand or sawdust;
• store the container in the basement at a temperature of about 0C;
• the rootstock is removed from the basement 24 hours before grafting;
• it is cleaned and rotten branches are removed from it;
• the length of healthy roots is shortened to 15 cm;
• further storage takes place at t +20C;
• the rootstock is placed in a container with water for 24 hours, the temperature of which is +15C;
• Once the specified time period is completed, the rootstock is removed and wiped;
• a cutting is grafted onto the rootstock;
• grafted plants are placed in a glass jar and covered with polyethylene;
• the container is placed in a warm place where the temperature is +25+28C.

After 24 hours, the plant is transferred to a container and placed in a dark, slightly cool place. The grafted plants are removed from the container in the spring, when the outside temperature is consistently around 15°C. Before plant it in open ground, dead parts are removed from the rootstock.

Green to green grafting

Take an old vine, leaving two strong shoots on it and removing the rest. Grafting onto the old layer is somewhat easier from a functional standpoint. Make a very straight cut under the second node. The leaf located under the first node can be left, provided no side shoots have appeared. The rest of the process is as follows:

• the cutting is cut into several pieces, each 4 cm long;
• grafting of green grapes into green ones is carried out in such a way that about 1.5 of its length remains above the leaf, and about 2 cm below it;
• the green leaf is cut to half its size;
• the second cut of the scion, which is located below, is made in a wedge shape;
• Once both elements are connected, the grafting site is insulated with film and garden pitch.

The specimen is placed in a plastic bottle. As soon as new branch growth is visible, the previously applied film can be removed.

Using single-eyed cuttings

This technique is considered a type of summer grafting. If done correctly, the gardener will be able to accelerate the harvest time several times compared to the "green to green" technique. The functional difference between the two methods is the timing of scion preparation. When using single-bud cuttings, the work begins in the fall. During winter storage, the gardener monitors the temperature. If the cuttings do not dry out, the agronomic procedure will be successful. A practical video explains how, after the onset of stable autumn warmth, the cuttings are inspected. Only the healthiest ones are taken and carefully placed in a container of water for 48 hours. 100 g of "Kornevin" is dissolved in the water. Then, follow the following procedure:

• the branches are dried;
• cut into small pieces so that each has only 1 eye;
• the edge of each cut is sealed with paraffin;
• cuttings are stored until the beginning of June at t +4 +6C in separate cellophane bags;
• with the onset of summer, the scion is removed from the refrigerator;
• a wedge-shaped incision is made on their lower part;
• insert the scion into the split of a young branch.

In the future, adhere to the procedure that is typical for the “green” to “green” technology.

Proper care

Grafted bushes are cared for regularly. Every 4-5 days, the soil around the trunk is loosened and hilled to increase oxygen penetration. top dressing and water. Before making any decisions, the gardener evaluates the condition of the bush:

1. Digging is carried out 14 days after the gardener noticed that shoots had not formed on the grafted cutting.
2. The upper part of the rootstock is removed along with the previously made graft, after which a re-grafting is carried out.
3. Botanists recommend regularly monitoring the fusion of the rootstock and scion. This should be done at least every 12 days. If roots appear that are not integrated into the rootstock, they should be removed.
4. Weeds are removed regularly. If forecasters predict a sharp cold snap, spruce branches are used as a warming element.

Every 3 weeks carry out processing Shrubs against fungus. Any solution purchased at a gardening store will do.

Typical mistakes

Incorrect storage of cuttings – a common reason why grape grafting fails in summer or fall. The recommended temperature is around 5 degrees Celsius. Excessive or excessively low temperatures will cause the cuttings to rapidly lose moisture. Another common mistake is using scion and rootstock with different maturation times. Insufficient treatment of the cleft site completes the list of gardener's mistakes. Root rot develops there.

Reviews

Valentina

I grafted in the summer. I wanted to grow several varieties of berries on a single bush. I used rootstocks with only a few green leaves. Unfortunately, the experiment was unsuccessful. The large temperature swings between summer and autumn took their toll.

Peter

I graft with rootstock that already has or hasn't yet developed shoots. The grafting site is located about 40 cm above the soil. I then graft every 2-3 buds. The optimal time is June 20th - July 20th. In temperate climates, other dates are not advisable.

Grafting grapevines is essential for improving the plant's immunity and productivity. It can be done at any time of year, taking into account the characteristics of the selected variety. The secret to success is a perfectly even cut and storing the vines in a cool place.